Hi Mike. Kevin in Kansas. We bought a farm home and under the front door dormer we had a leak that would leak during hard downfalls under the staircase to the finished basement. We have Black Walnut trees on property and for some reason years ago they let one grow 20 feet from the front door. They also put useless gutters on the dormer that lead to nowhere. Bad combination. So, we watched your video and repaired the thin crack and cut the enormous tree. All good now. Thanks for your content. Your kit was amazing. Cheers.
Just used this kit. I used my Milwaukee Caulk gun set on 4. It filled my crack all the way through to the outside of the wall which is under my deck. I guess I will be cleaning that up in a couple of days. This kit is awesome. Thanks for the video.
I had a hair-line crack that started leaking water this winter when the ground was frozen and we had a lot of rain. Found that the crack was visible from the outside as well as inside. I watched the video and then followed the links and bought the kit. Today was installation day. A+ for most of the contents of the kit. The only B was for the little water bottle. More water would up leaking from the bottle than came out of the lower spouts. I used plumber's tape on the bottle threads for a better seal. The trick here is to gently squeeze the water bottle and be patient. Did I mention you should be patient with the water bottle? OK. The wire brush was perfect. The tubes were easily sealed to the wall with the epoxy paste, then the epoxy paste was added to the rest of the brushed area. Let cure 4 hours. Applied water, and that took well over an hour and a half. Took the polyurethane mix tubes and set them in hot water for 20 minutes. This a must in my opinion. This makes the polyurethane flow easily. Just like the video, start at the bottom and patiently work your way up the wall. I found watching the occasional bubbles in the polyurethane tube gave me a way to pace the delivery of material. Looking into the next tube up I could see when the polyurethane was about to come out and was able to close the feed tube, pull it off the tube, cap the tube, and get the feed tube attached to the next higher tube with little spillage. Now I'm waiting for it to cure. Tomorrow, I'll knock off the tubes and then look into how to sand down the epoxy paste (did I miss the link for that tool?). One last comment, remember to seal the top of the wall if your crack is visible there. Overall, very satisfied with the project and the kit.
For some people it's hard to understand that even though it looks easy it takes a certain expertise to complete the job correctly and that's worth a lot thanks for the video.
What if my basement is leaking right in the corner, would this method still work? How would you attach the injection ports in that case, since it seems they require a flat part of the wall to attach to?
Great information. Thanks! PSA - You should have an N-95 NIOSH Approved mask on to reduce inhalation of airborne silicates. I get that you have the vac attached to the grinder, but unless you are using a wet saw/ grinder, there is still airborne particle exposure risk. Just an FYI for you and your viewers.
Well - I gave it a go. I have a 2nd crack and had to order a 2nd kit. That will be fixed when it arrives. I'll describe my experience: The prep work, port installation, and epoxy is the time consuming part. The epoxy goes a little quicker than you think. I did have some polyurethane resin/foam leak out from weak spots in my epoxy-ing. (I'm not a professional). I did read that just because some of the foam leaks out doesn't mean the product isn't working. I did have 1-2 spots where the material would not make it to the higher port (~75/80% of the time it did). I had to work through a PVC pipe area in the middle of the wall. I warmed the injection tubes in hot water for about a half-hour before injection. I went slow on the injection (I watched random air bubbles as my "guide" to prevent me from going too fast) and kept constant, light pressure on the caulk gun to slowly move the material into the port. I'll let it sit for another day then sand it down/remove the ports - also might Drylok over top the whole area. ~7 foot crack; total time - 6 hours (I did go slow and I had a lot of old caulk to get off). The 2nd crack will go a little quicker I'm sure. It's messy at times, but I think it'll work. And don't get the polyurethane on your hands - no other way to get it off other than to sort of...wait for it to fall off. Enjoy!
This is awesome content. I don't have a Crack, but as a creator I appreciate the time you took to produce this video and the opportunity to learn from you.
I paid $850 per crack at two of my properties, and they didn’t even sand it down. I still have the tubes sticking out of the wall. Thanks for sharing - I will never be taken by again!
Maybee that is going rate in your area prices are different all over the country a master plumber in nyc charges 300 a hr a master plumber in nj charges 150a hr and a master plumber in pa charges 100 a hr.
Mike Day Everything About Concrete ... Mr. Mike, my house is leaking bad, I feel I can do this Can I go Tony local Lowe’s or home de Poot and do these 3 cracks in my basement??? I can’t afford to pay anyone, as I’m a single mom of 3.....? What do you suggest??
Is it better to use this from inside the house in the basement - or to use it outside the house - but you would have to dig down the basement wall to expose the whole crack? Could be a lot of digging. Would you say it is just as good and strong to do from inside the basement wall? Please let me know as I am not looking forward to a big shovel festival.
Good work well done, is this product you injected into concrete wall a polyurethane? It expands well because epoxy dose not expand, I love to learn more Thank you
@@MikeDayConcrete when will be your next training ? Let me know specially fixing concrete slabs , am sure fixing cracks in wall same as in slabs I guess. I couldn’t see the link you mentioned name of this product . Thank you
Hi Mike. This looks like a great product. I must ask though, have you ever had a call back? Meaning that the crack somehow still allows water to enter the basement and how you go about fixing it at that stage? Thanks for all your quality content. Great channel!!
Great informative Video! I have a 6" wide foundation wall that is exposed on both sides that is two years old. The small settling stress cracks start at the top and run straight down to the footing, about 18" long. They also go completely through the wall from exterior to interior. I assume I need to seal the backside to keep the polyurethane foam sealer from flowing out the backside. What is your recommendation to accomplish this? The exterior will eventually be back filled with dirt, and the interior is in the crawl space. On a side note, what happened to the $15.00 course you mentioned in the video?
My basement walls were formed with brick mold forms. Have literally one crack from the bottom corner of an egress window to the floor. It has leaked for years so was excited to finally have a repair kit. The crack is not wide though slightly more than a hairline. We have open studs on the walls for future finishing. So putting the ports on wasn't smooth. The brick shaped surface is rough and the studs limited maneuver space. So when I started pumping each of the ports leaked. Now I have no way of knowing how much product is in the wall sealing the crack. I assume some but there is a good size blob at the bottom...not in the crack. Any recommendations? Should I drill through the inside patch between the ports to expose the crack and put on new ports to try and get more product in the wall?
As a professional water proofer when it comes to injections they have a huge chance of failing and you need to be drilling the crack on a 45 degree angle and should be pumping a acid through the crack first to clean and debris out of it cause and sort of dust little stone in side the crack can cause pin leaks in the injecting then after that you want to pum through a ton of water to wash the crack out and then patch the crack and I also like to patch the crack on the out side above grade as well before pumping this and even with all that I really don't like doing it
Mike, What do I do with a crack that us significantly wider than that? For instance, and inch or an inch and a half? Also can you tell me the name of the tool that you used to get the wall prepped to paint?
A crack that wide sounds like a structural crack that needs repair. Probably better off letting an engineer look at it and make a suggestion. Without seeing it it's hard for me to comment on one that size. I used a Dewalt 4" grinder with a diamond cup wheel on it to prep for painting after.
Great videos! One Tie Rod Hole in my poured concrete basement is leaking water inside. How should I fill it? Do I need to clean the hole before filling, it might have soil, mold buildup, etc.?
I have a question. I have a basement wall where there's a hole in it because the old rebar has completely rusted through. So basically there appears to be a hole from the outside to the inside. When it rain a lot, water comes in. Will this kit work on this type of problem?
do i have to make a drain out side?....beacause i have the same cracked but one guy come the other day and he told me ...i has to make a drain outside .that mean he have to dig out side .its true or i can made the way you do in this video....thanks
Mike, youve been around long enough to know that making money is one thing, but actually stopping water infiltration is yet another. If there is enough of a problem as for water pressure it will find a way in or it will make a way in.
Hi Mike I have water coming in my basement at the union between the footing and the Bottom of the foundation wall it’s a horizontal crack 20 foot long do I use the corner injector port and what is the sequence of injecting since I’m going Sideways ? Thank you
I'd like to know what percentage of PermaSeal customer's require additional visits because the initial job was not done properly resulting in continued foundation leaking?
About a half inch for me. This stuff expands 20X after you inject it so it will fill a pretty big crack. Just have to be able to seal up the outside of the crack.
I bought the kit and followed your directions (so far) up until inserting the foam. I tested my epoxy seal with the water bottle and saw that I had to put a little more epoxy around 3 of the ports on the bottom portion of the crack--water came out around the ports. After adding a little more epoxy by those ports, I let it cure for a day. Today, I don't get any water coming out of any ports. I squirt the bottle from the top port and then move down--no water. I'm nervous to go to the next step of inserting foam. Any suggestions? Ports that had water coming out of them on the first test do not have water coming out now. I only added more epoxy to the bottom 3 ports after 1st water test. Why is there no water coming out anywhere now? it's shooting back at me from the port I insert water bottle into.
I have cracks on a open porch concrete slab over a storage area. It has 5 perpendicular cracks I need to seal. Will this or the epoxy system resist expansion/compression when the summer sun and the winter cold hits it?
I just got done using the kit. I didn't even go through 1 tube of the poly, maybe half. The crack was only about 5 feet maybe. Is that OK? I wasn't squirting fast.
great video, get yourself a respirator mask for the grinding though, trust me. i've been doing masonry work for over 25 years now and my lungs are shot from inhaling that dust on too many occasions. also saw you say this would work on a cinderblock wall under another comment... i would NOT suggest this product for that application. cinder blocks have 6x6x8 cavities in each block and about an inch cavity between blocks in most cases, most contractors save money by not "slushing the cells" (or filling the cavities with concrete), meaning in order to actually seal up a block wall using a product like this would take at least 20 times as much. tuck-pointing is the only way to go on block and brick, and its much cheaper to do.
I'm in the middle of repairing my foundation crack now. It's supposed to rain in 3 days. This is a repair of a long ago repair. Crossing fingers here. Will update in a week. Get a good 3m painters mask and open windows for venting!
Thanks mike just bought a house and guess what. 2 cracks leaking on the unfinished side. Ill probably buy your course and give them a run in the next month or 2.
Hey Mike this is a great video. Can you please comment with a link for the product? The link in the description works but when you click on the product it says page not found. Thank you
Hey, thanks for the informative video. Really appreciate it! Was wondering if you have tips on how to repair a corner pop (I believe that is what it is called? ) in an old basement corner at the top where it should be supporting the wood . It’s a fairly old house (120 years). Lots of cracks and large holes in the basement walls. What would be the best what to go about making it presentable or fixing it for selling? Thank you!
I have a vertical crack that goes up behind my return air duct work. I risk damaging the duct work to remove it to ensure proper seal of entire crack. I do not have water seepage at this crack, it just looks bad. I am considering urethane crack repair here. In your opinion would this be okay to inject up to the duct work? the duct work is above the natural soil line on the exterior of the home???
@@MikeDayConcrete I've got a basement floor crack and it seeps when the snow melts and when its rainy. I first used my grinder and prepped the crack for hydraulic leak stop(H.L.S.), put the H.L.S. down and it died except where the water was still seeping. I put a skim coat layer over it to try and seal it from the top. When the snow melts it darkens(dampens) the crack. So I came to the conclusion to get the kit in your video. Chip n remove the bs H.L.S. and start over. So now that I put u in the scenario, u think I should drill a 1/4" hole in the crack and shove 1/4"tubing in there n try n pump the water out? Or just wait till it gets cold enough out to freeze again. Is a slow seeping ok or needs to be dry?
Mike Day Everything About Concrete Hello, how can I get the instructions on how to do mine. I know you mentioned a $15.00 cost for something. I’m ready to do mine ASAP! Let me know if you’re selling a how to, step by step video.
You can place them at an angle as long as the crack is sealed over after. Or you could grind the crack so it's even on both sides then apply the ports.
Will this seal around where a waste PVC pipe leaves the foundation? and... Once you sand/grind the epoxy....are you done at that point...? No need for any cement? Good video BTW.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks. The PVC main leaves the foundation on the wall (vertical slab). The cracks are pretty thin, but I'm assuming this will be still be sufficient to seal them up?
Mike- similar question. My home was built in 1950 and has a concrete floor with a metal pipe radiant heat system running through the concrete. After 71 years, a crack recently developed in the concrete in the closet of one room and when the radiant system is turned on, water emanates from the crack out the rate of 1/4 gallon per hour. Will the epoxy surround the pipe and stop the leak? Or should I use the other product you mentioned to Oldsouth? Also, is there a chance the epoxy will be forced INSIDE the metal pipe itself and clog the system? Thanks Mike! 🙂 Matt Gordon
Mike- similar question. My home was built in 1950 and has a concrete floor with a metal pipe radiant heat system running through the concrete. After 71 years, a crack recently developed in the concrete in the closet of one room and when the radiant system is turned on, water emanates from the crack out the rate of 1/4 gallon per hour. Will the epoxy surround the pipe and stop the leak? Or should I use the other product you mentioned to Oldsouth? Also, is there a chance the epoxy will be forced INSIDE the metal pipe itself and clog the system? Thanks Mike! 🙂 Matt Gordon
Great information. I have an old adobe home, plaster covering the adobe. Some additions to original house--- Lots of vertical cracks in those areas. Do you think this method will work on adobe walls??? Please I would like to get your feedback.
Great video, how well does this work on cinderblock?? I have a crappy cinderblock addition on my house and it leaks from random spots, I have done a bit of grading outside which has helper but I need to make sure it is 100% so that I can insulate and finish the wall without worries of it leaking... Thanks for any advice you can offer!
speaking as a mason with 25 years of experience, i would NOT use this on a cinderblock wall at all. that is what tuck-pointing is for. this stuff is for fixing fine cracks, cinderblocks have rather large cavities inside them that are rarely filled completely with concrete as they should be. you would end up using at least 20 times more of this product than you should.
@@Smokey420Greenleaf So what they actually did was poured a concrete foundation about 5 feet tall off the footings then capped it with about 4 courses of concrete block, which i believe may be filled with concrete, but I will have to check to find out! I am going to dig down but I'm willing to bet that they only parged down to that concrete/cmu joint and perhaps the parging has failed there. Thanks for your reply!
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Horizontal cracks tend to be more of a structural problem. You may want to get that checked. But this will work to stop any leaks unless it's really wide.
If there is an exposed crack, it is a good idea to seal it so you don't waste product. The one in the video was so small I wanted you guys to see what it looked like when the foam expanded so I left it open.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the video. Do you recommend this product for leaking tie rods? If so, is there any prep work to be done on the concrete/tie rod area other than clearing loose debris?
