Bonjour ! Merci beaucoup pour cet excellent tuto pour tracer le corsage de base de Helen Amstrong. Je suis très contente de découvrir votre vidéo c'est tellement bien expliquée.
That's great! I'm so glad you made a tutorial using the Helen Armstrong book. I'm wondering, how do you measure the arm hole depth if you are measuring a model instead of a dress form?
Oh my I haven’t tried it yet on a model 😅✌🏼 but there’s a calculation I learned from school. CENTER BACK LENGTH + CENTER FRONT LENGTH and Divide it by 4 the result is drafted on the front and back side seam.
I bought Helen Joseph-Amrstong fifth edition book. I started making a pattern step by step following the book while watching the video. There is difference in Back bodies block when marking the point B.
I modified my pattern drafting for the back. For me, honestly it is not accurate especially for my dress form’s size. But go for it! I’m glad you bought the book
Thank you for the reply. This video is very useful. May I please know the size of the dress form. I'm working on a size 10 pattern and I don't have a dress form. I'm just worried if it happens to mine as well.
I have a few issues with this method, first the shoulder slop is different in the front and back, then the neckline is way wider in the back which is contradictory with other methods in the industry, side seam angles are also different too. I like the book but I'm not sure about the sloper, it will work for basic constructions, tank top, semi fitting or loose garments, but for tight fitting dresses or tailored garments it can be tricky for certain morphologies. I tried to draft for my dress form using their measurement chart, it could be also that their chart is not accurate...In the fashion design program I go, we use the book but not their slopers.Let me know if your experience is different.
Thank you Brit for sharing your knowledge. I like the way you teach well explanatory. Please is it possible to download the pattern book or how can I get it. Thank you once again.
I found an answer for you. Place a ruler or straight edge under your arm level to the floor, and lower your arm over it. Measure from the front shoulder to the ruler, straight, not curved. Do the same for the back, or it you don't have a helper, do the entire shoulder, back to front, touching the ruler. This will create a rectangle that your armscye will fit into. Our arms are located toward the front. This will matter when you measure. Check the back and front separately to position the center of your armscye horizontally.
Could you help with any suggestions, please? My measurements are as such: Full length: 23” Across Shoulder: 10 1/2” Centre front length: 14 1/2” Bust arc: 13 1/2” shoulder slope is measured at 21 1/2” Bust depth: 12 1/2” Shoulder length: 4” And that’s what the pattern turned out like. B-G (shoulder slope) doesn’t reach C, I don’t know why? My boob cup is a K so I’m outside of the body shape norm I suppose. Do I go with this or have I done something wrong/missed something? Or do i need to go about it from a different approach?
Hi there thank you for watching my tutorial! the dart placement depends on the dressform you have. If you see the princess line from your dressform measure it from the front Center line.
Hello Miss Brit! Based on what I read in review section of this book in Amazon. I learned that theres an error on the instruction in some blocks. Did you find or notice any?!
Why is there so much praise for this book? Are you guys getting paid to say it’s good?? I took a Patternmaking class and this book was required. I never found a book to be so useless as Helen’s. This book is missing explanations in some parts and is very vague in others. I’ve never been able to complete the bodice using this book let alone make a design from the book. Anyone else wondering why this book is getting so high reviews when it’s totally confusing???
probably the one you got wasnt updated. i really like this book, i also agree with you in some parts that are vague. nevertheless its still an awesome book for patternmakers
Could you explain why that 1/8 inch is added and taken away respectively? Point A to B, draw a line equaling your full length measurement + 1/8". Draw a line from A to C equaling your across shoulder measurement - 1/8". Thanks in advance.
Hi! Yes! Because the Helen Joseph Armstrong method has a lot of ease! That’s why I did the alterations tutorial for those who aren’t satisfied with the fit of the Bodice
I noticed you only gave the formula bust cup sizes for a C, D and (I think you meant to say DD)…however what are the formula numbers for sizes E, F, G, H? How did you get those numbers?
I spent 3 hours followed step by step from the how to measure (still should to get update with a help of actual mannequin measuring v.clip.) till the drafting part . i had got a droopy droopy armhole ever.. So much disappointed..💔
I followed your video exactly using my own measurements. I’m confused on seam allowance. When cutting my fabric using the pattern do I need to add 1/2 inch allowance everywhere? If not which parts do I add it too
You say that the abdomen is 3" below the waist and hip depth is from 6" to 9" below the waist. These only work if you are standard heights and will not work for me. I'm 4' 8", I have a disability, so nothing is standard for me. All these basic blocks fail to recognise that people want to make their own blocks because they are not standards. I had thought about getting the book you mentioned but now I know that people with a disability are not taken into the picture. I find these methods extremely frustrating and of no help to me.
Sorry to hear this! This is so sad to know. And I am completely oblivious with this matter. I know for a fact the books out there on the market doesn’t recognize people with disabilities which is a sad thing. 🥺 I hope you’ll be able to figure out the right sizing for your body. Maybe ask a close family member to take in your measurements and try and try to use those measurements on your own pattern drafting. Or maybe create your own drafting method. These measurements I gave out are the standard measurements that I learned from my fashion school and as well the books that I’ve read in the past. I mean no offense. I hope all is well with you
I’m sorry Jenny. But I feel like I need to interject. I agree that absolutely not everyone is the same. I think Brit’s tutorials are awesome and extremely informative. I think the goal is to teach us to learn the basics and then apply them to the pieces and different body types we would like to base our creations on. And I also think that when asking for help, we should ask for help accordingly. And give ample information to receive that help. There’s more to this. It’s quite technical. And I feel like she would have been so much more keen on helping you out if you would have just given more information with what you need help on with creating your blocks. She also seems quite responsive. I think punishing someone for not outright knowing each of our situations is quite unfair and so uncalled for. You can’t just be rude and say “I’m cranky” and then have that person be at your beck and call. It’s free information. And the additional help that could have been given if asked politely would have gotten you further than just being angry. No hate. But seriously...sometimes people aren’t capable of showing common decency off the bat. If Brit had said she is creating pieces geared towards people with disabilities, then yes hold her to that standard. She is teaching all of us the basics. Something she went to school for. And is now sharing all of it for free.
So apologies. I have been searching for help for some time and no one is able to help me. I've been sewing since I was a school girl and now in my 50s it has become more difficult as something happens to our bodies as we age. So now sewing has become more difficult and challenging. But because I have incredible figure faults I can't buy any garment off the shelf and because making adjustments is so challenging making things like a fitted blouse, a dress, or a coat has becone nearly impossible.
Hey girl I know its hard!!! As a woman whose 4’11 and with a bust measuring 46in its hard I’ve seriously considered switching to making my own clothes. I just watched a video that helped me draft a custom basic bodice block
There is a simple one a book, Pattern cutting made easy by Gillian Holman. This will simplify it, after you get the basics you can always make alterations after trying on a muslin.
This video was excellent…however I truly wish you would have taken the time to complete it by showing the additional steps involved in adding proper SEAM ALLOWANCE…please