For folks starting out, especially, commercially-made washes are good because they provide consistent results. You can get used to using a wash, without worrying how the mix your own.
Thanks for this series brother! The video is well balance between theory and technique. Again, it's the most comprehensive and unbiased advice with the different techniques explained and demonstrated.
Jon, I have to say a big thank you to you. Your YT channel and your website are just awesome and incredibly informative. I have just discovered you recently by accident and you have quickly become one of my top 3 modelling channels and believe me I follow a lot of channels. I have been binge watching your videos and I have learned a great deal from them. I love your honest and true enthusiasm for the hobby and I much prefer your "long" videos. However if in the future you decide to make shorter videos please still keep your long ones too 😉
Thank you so much for your kind words - they are such an encouragement! And I'm so glad you find them helpful. That's always my goal, to be helpful in the enjoyment of the hobby. I do plan on keeping the same format for sure. You'll see a few shorter videos the first of the year, but that's due to needing to produce faster so I can take some time off! 😊 Thanks again for your kind comments, and thank you so much for watching!
@@gunplacactus9914 Thanks! As to the beard, I basically got sick of shaving. So it's less of a desire to have a beard than it is a desire to not shave. If I could not shave and not have a beard - that would be preferred. 😁
I have some MiG paint brushers and some AK enamel washes. Still learning to use these. LOL I have the three on the left. I considered buying the MiG stuff but passed at this time. I dont like to restrict myself to one source. I watch several people to elarn and get ideas then try to combine what I have learned and combine what I think works for me. Compared to your a master modeler while my stuff looks like a 14 year old with thumb prints. I have been buying cheapest kits I can find on ebay. I call them my guineau pigs to experiment on. Latest victim will be getting a couple different type of creating cast armor texture. And I will be trying the Archer resin weld bead decals and .020" styrene rod soaked with extra thin to make weld seams. Next week will be playing with Milliput.
Those will work well! The key is to experiment and see what works for you and what doesn't. You'll be confident of it all in no time! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks, Jon. Once again your vids are proving useful - I'm ready to wash my Tiger's tracks and reckon they won't end up nearly as ugly as my previous (first attempt ever) effort. That model became a test bed, after a big mess-up, for a bunch of stuff. Cheers, man!
Yeah, this was part of a series on the same model, so each video was one "stage" in the progression. Good point though! Thanks for your kind words, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the video, Jon! Very informative - I'm especially glad you covered oils, enamels and acrylics. Using the pencil for panel lines is interesting - have you ever tried that with AK Weathering Pencils?
Really good thorough video. I’m curious to know if you would advise against enamel wash like Tamiya panel liner on bare plastic. Is i’m keeping my model unpainted (gunpla/minipla), what would be the best way to prepare my model for enamel wash? Thanks for the video!
You can definitely apply Tamiya enamel washes over the bare plastic. The main thing to watch out for is allowing the wash to collect or pool up in joints, gaps, etc. It can potentially split the plastic in those area. It's rare, but I know it is a possibility - it has happened to me once! Apply the washes carefully, not flooding the surface. It might even help to do the washes prior to assembly, so there are fewer chances for it to get into the joints. etc. The main thing is just be careful in the process, and you should do just fine! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the info. Where do you buy your AK an Mig products. I know they come from Spain. I have tried to buy some items but the high shipping makes them too pricey especially from Ebay. Thanks
Most of the AK products I get from the local hobby shop. I also get them from Sprue Brothers and Scale Hobbyist. Both are in the US. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you Jon; If we apply a Gloss Varnish, followed by an Enamel Pin Wash, and then wish to paint with Acrylic, do we need to apply a Matt Varnish? (i.e., the Acrylic Paint may not adhere to the Gloss Varnish??) Your thoughts are welcomed.
It's hard to give a definite answer - the best I can say is "it depends". Acrylic paints can adhere to a gloss finish, the key is to determine how much those parts will be handled. A gloss coat can also make some acrylic paints (especially if overthinned) bead up. First thing to do is just give it a test. See the results. If it creates problems, then a matte or satin coat may be called for. Keep in mind that you can apply a "spot" coat of matte or satin finish simply by brushing it on. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you again for your video and tips. I'm currently doing Bandai Poe Dameron Black One X-wings. What colours of wash do you suggest on such a black or rather very dark grey surface?
Thanks so much - I am grateful! When I'm working with a model that's black, I take several things into consideration: - I rarely use pure black as the base color. Most often I'll use a black-gray or German gray, and the go a bit lighter for highlights. This allows pure black to be used for shading, etc., so that it will show up. But sometimes that's not sufficient to really help the details pop. - In those cases, I opt for either a very desaturated dark blue (or even slightly purple) to help panel lines or detail stand out a bit, or if I want a dirtier look, I go for a warmer, desaturated brown. I generally start darker than needed and test the color, either off model, or in a less visible place on model. Then I adjust as needed, and apply across the model. - I'll occasionally use lighter panel line washes, but only in some key areas, such as where several panel lines meet, etc. This visually highlights boundaries but avoids making it all look toy-like. - I think the key when working with a black model is to make sure that there is a good amount of contrast so it doesn't look quite so flat. Even alterations in finish (gloss/satin/matte) can help distinguish areas. The goal is for it to "read" as black, yet it's not actually black. (A Google image search of WWII night fighters, such as the P-61, can be very helpful.) I hope this information helps! The best thing is to experiment and see what works for you! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thank you so much again for the valuable tips. For the base colour of this X-wing, I mixed about 60-70% black + 30-40% white to get that German like grey. So I intend to weather and dry brush the model with lighter grey and black silver. So I will take your suggestion to try out the brown wash to bring out the panels details. Hope this work's out. One more question, I'm planning to give a matte surface for the the wash. Is that a good idea or I should go for satin finish instead?
Sounds like you're on target! Matte or satin works fine, though I think a satin finish with just a few areas of matte is visually more appealing. But it all depends on your goals in the build!
There's no better wash than oils. Using everything else is situational. You can use painters oils, just make sure you buy the high quality ones. The cheap ones don't work very well, indeed.
When it comes to washes, etc.., they can be pretty much interchangeable. Oils tend to blend out a bit better, but that is a very fine technique. I tend to prefer oils simply because they have less odor than enamel washes. Thanks for watching and commenting!
