For a boat like this standard pop rivets are fine. But for serious use on things like sea kayak hatches, etc. I prefer sealed rivets as they prevent seepage through the mandrel.
In my 25+ years of kayak assembly experience, tapping the mandrill down, if needed, does not loosen the rivet, by any measurable degree. Nor will it incur any leaking if sealed with silicone. Tapping is a far better alternative to drilling the rivet off, or cutting or grinding the mandrill down. (info applicable to kayaks only, not to airplanes)
Hi Tom. This video has really helped me with a project which I am working on with my new kayak. I do have a question about strap eyes and attachment points. I'm attempting to do something... unorthodox... with storing and transporting my kayak, and was wondering if you've ever seen someone attempt to hang a kayak via strap/pad eyes? If so, about how much load do you think that an evenly-distributed set of 6 pad eyes attached with tri-grip rivets could support? The weight of the whole kayak?
Not a good idea, particularly with plastic boats, as they provide very limited purchase an can lead to deformation of the deck. Just rig up a couple of web or rope loops to cradle the hanging kayak.
Rivets: no need for inside access. Need a special tool. Very strong. Machine Screws (blunt end) and Nuts: must reach inside simple tools needed. Very strong. Self-tap Screws (pointed): no need for inside access. NOT strong. Machine Screws (blunt end) and Well-Nuts: no need for inside access. Not necessarily strong.