Basics - Adding a light to an existing lighting circuit. How to Add a light fitting to an existing TPS circuit. Demonstrated using a PDL 629 batten holder. Link to Part 1: • Basics: Wiring a Light... Cheers for watching!
Legal or not people will still do this work. So, knowledge empowers someone to do this safely - rather than fumble around and do it unsafely. Congrats mate.
Man - you're a life saver, Dave! Really... Cheers mate for all your time you do to educate us on how things are done. Your Apprentice Kitten must be so happy having you. :)
Thanks, Dave. I am thinking about creating my own farmhouse chandelier and I needed explanation on how to wire up multiple lights. Your video was easy for me to understand. Great job on your video.
Thanks for sharing these vids m9, I don't see one for making an outlet circuit? is it the same as a light circuit/multiple light circuit? I actually found your vids when I was looking for a copy of AS/NZS 3000-2018 as I am planning to run the cables in my new home for the sparky to come and wire it up, and I just wanted to read the standards for doing so... have you got a more cabling specific vid that talks about how and where to use conduit and asociated parts and how cabling should interact with wall framing and floor joists?
Hi Dave, love watch your videos. I had a question, if i am installing base plug sockets for Downlights can I use the existing cables or do I need to run new ones ?
This is the easiest to follow and understand video yet of the 3 other videos I very recently came across. The only thing is that I am not sure of is the ground situation. I am not daisy chaining lights but rather cameras with spotlights. I want to make sure I ground properly. I will probably be running two sets of wires (romex) from the light switch to the two separate camera/light fixtures. I probably am overthinking this but where the ground is concerned should I just run each camera/light's ground wire to the switch and tie it off on the ground connector as I would be doing if I only had one camera/light?
I have one strap from the first of two ceiling light batten fittings to the single gang switch that was linked to both. A single black cable entering the switch via the same conduit as the strap containing a red and black cable. The single gang switch once had a dimmer but I removed it. I am uncertain of that second black cable’s purpose. At the moment turning on the switch causes a short so something is askew. The ceiling lights tap into a hot wire feeding all eleven battens looping or daisy chaining along the circuit.
Wow thank you. Didn't know it was that easy. Any tips on how this is different when doing led downlight? I've noticed there is no ground for led downlights.
Amazing video (and videos!), thank you so much! This is extremely helpful for my pre-app work (especially when the tutors aren't anywhere near as helpful as this) and through into my upcoming apprenticeship. I'm assuming in this demonstration, these two lights are wired in parallel? Would you be up for making a demonstration video for wiring up these two lights in series with TPS to see the difference for educational purposes (I appreciate series isn't usually the done thing for most light circuits)?
generally easier to wire from the socket as its likely accessible, switch is in the wall so youd have to drop the cable down/up, socket is in ceiling. you just do whatever is easier.
If I wanted to run say a 2 gang switch for 2 separate light circuits. Does each circuit need to be run from the switch box or can you just loop the source into the next circuit?
This is great but im still trying to get my head round it. Is this circuit in series or parrallel? Or does it not matter? Im about to wire up 2 led lights and thought if i did it this way then the 2 lights would end up "dimmer" cos the circuit is in series. Can anyone clarify?
That's fine. Although keep an eye out if there are sensors or dimmers on the same circuit as these are only compatible with one type of load..(ie incandescent, LED, fluorescent)
A motion sensor just takes the place of a switch. If you want a switch also, just wire a switch before the motion sensor. You’d have power source, switch, motion sensor, light, light.
So technically, i could just swap that switch for a plug end? And plug in into an outlet? I could theoretically use an extension cord and cut it up and loop a few lights together this way?
No, you will want to get the proper gauged Romex that's rated for the type of amperage your power on that circuit is running on. To small of a wire gauge can cause potential issues/hazards.
The more lights u add in one circuit the more power consumtion increase and the more amps will flow in the circuit which makes the resistance to increase the higher resistance is more amps will flow one 1mm cable or 1.5 mm is enough to take all amps with no resistancewhich can take up to 16 amp but the circuit breaker is also very important in one circuit for safety reasons
These are wired in parallel. Imagine a black line and red line, each lamp (and any additional lamp) sits between the two lines. Hope that helps. (In the video the black and red cables were never cut - just extended).
There are a few factors to consider, including cable size, the total power consumption and overall distance from the switchboard. Generally, in a residential setting, it depends on the combined power consumption (watts) of the entire circuit running off the same fuse/circuit breaker at the switchboard. Ideally the combined wattage should be less than 1kW on the same lighting circuit (4.35A) for residential. Calculated P=VI. Very easily done with LED lighting these days - you will over illuminate a room, if not the entire house, before you overload the circuit. Should the circuit become overloaded, the fuse/mcb will operate protecting the cable from excessive temperatures.
we have much hassle with the stripping you know, Dave. Showing us your chosen tools and techniques for stripping would be good. (two years ago. wonder if you'll see this0
Absolutely. People pay me $350 to caulk stuff on their roof because they don’t have a ladder or want to go up one. Takes 5 - 10 mins. You’re paying for the service.
I just read someone paid 400$ to have a man come and move a light switch and outlet to the wall right behind the switch. I wonder how he screwed around doing this 10 min job to make it take alot longer so he could charge that amount.
Great vid....so if I wanted to add a 3rd light to that circuit I would connect into the 2nd socket?...and a 4th light, connect into the 3rd and so on?....and if so, how many additional lights can you go...is there a recommended limit?