Ooo I don't think that kind of brakers are worn out... 👍 perhaps out of date.... Or was changed because is not suitable (higher load)anymore.... This braker costs about 5000-7000€ new if not more and ABB brand with trip function...excellent.... 👍
Yes you could use that. Every type of breaker/contactor/relay or what so ever that will cope with the current/voltage and can be controlled by the onboard relay or mosfet
I see that I wasnt fully clear there. The thing is that if you power the watchmon via the breaker. Ie if you have the watchmon after the breaker the watchmon will test the conditions on the bootup (Versions in this video and older) due to it is tripping the breaker. So basically if you turn the breaker on to power up the watchmon it will then turn itself off again when testing the output.... :) (Kind off) You need to have the watchmon before the breaker.
Hi again ...on the Second Life forum I received information that you do not need the expansion board to control a Shunt Trip Breaker....what are your feelings on this?
@@DIYTechRepairs What I meant was in your video you indicate you need the expansion board to use a Shunt Trip Breaker with the Watchmon. So as per your response and others on the forum, the expansion board is not necessary. So what would the advantages of actually getting the expansion board be? Also, if I had a Shunt Trip breaker like yours and I was using a 48V pack, could I use a transformer to step the voltage down from that pack to power the trip shunt ...or do you have to have separate power supply for it? Thank you as always.
@@FretsNirvana Wm4 you dont need expansion but the expansion give you the advantage of having Wm4 to know when the shunt tripped. Get a shunt trip for 48vdc or depending on type you can just add a resistor in series. Dont add extra electronics on something that is for protection . More stuff = more that can fail
So the baitrum can be used to trip the breaker. Or a contactor. So is that a constant voltage while all is good . then power off when there is a fault? I'm wanting to use MOSFETs to switch the inverter. Or a latching relay. I only need 200 amps. Maybe 300 for future upgrades.. Can the output be programmed? Thanks
Good job, if you could say, why did you take so long to show us this, i remember months ago you were preparing this, i hope it was only the time of recordinf or editing the video, like always many thanks for all you vids
@@DIYTechRepairs mani thanks ;) just fiew other question, I have just recovered a generation 2 nissan leaf battery, (every module are balanced); anyway, do you think is it possible use the "12V contactor" that are present on the original battery array? Or is better to use a specific contactor for DC plus an 12V actuator? At the moment i have just start to arrange the "single" module in order to have a 14S 10P array (nominal 48V at everage 45V to 58V).
@@albertorossetti5375 I cant answer that Im afraid. I have never worked with Nissan Leaf packs and have to little knowledge about it. If you add your question to Secondlife storage forum you will get an answer for sure!
So this one relay can trip the breaker due to overcharge, overdischarge, and temperature? (If this question doesnt make sense, forgive me I am a newbie but I hope you get the point). Is an expansion board necessary on a Watchmon4 for this to work?
That is awesome mate!. In a solar system, would I put one of those between battery and mppt charge controller, and also one between battery and inverter/charger? Can batrium disconnect two shunt trips for the same reasons? I'm trying to find a suitable shunt trip now in the USA. Not sure where to start! What do you think of this one www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q26000S01-240-Volt-Circuit-120-Volt/dp/B0052MCT1Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1533879396&sr=8-2&keywords=shunt+trip Thanks so much mate!
Thanks! Its only DC between battery and inverter. The inverter is what makes the AC. The shunt in this video is between the Inverters/chargers and the battery bank hence i run it on the DC side. Its important to get a breaker that is rated for DC.
Thanks for the info. I guess I'm a little confused as this doesn't seem to support the DC amperage I'm looking to run at 48ish volts. I'm looking to do the same thing by putting this between my battery banks and the inverter. Looks like I need to wait for your future videos on this.
