Excellent video, fellas. Everything was explained very thoroughly, and was easily understood. I wish there was something like this when I first got into the modding scene. Definitely interested in a MOSFET video, though. Keep up the great work!
Well I'm bookmarking this one, really well presented! A good chunk of this applies to airsoft (different motors and switches, but the wiring and batteries are the same, and the maths of course) I even learned why 2s/3s lipos are called s when Cell begins with C! Didn't think about series and parallel connections in battery packs, I've never seen a parallel connection. The discussion of connecting two batteries together to double the capacity does pop up every now and again, but it's generally frowned upon in our circles as different discharge rates could lead to one battery overdischarging before the other battery is empty(at least, that's the theory that's thrown around)
Yeah, I wanted this video to be applicable to as many different communities as possible. Parallel is very rare nowadays. I'm not 100% sure on how using several packs in parallel would go down but that sounds legit. Battery manufacturing has improved so you can get pretty big individual cells so paralleling packs is rarely necessary.
Two months of reddit posts, wikipedia pages, and dozens of open tabs and I learned more in 10 minutes of this video than I ever did. How is it that no one ever explained stall specs that well?
Because a vast majority of the denizens of reddit (and dare I say nerf in general) care more about feelings and dogma than facts. "Science" and "Maths" are scary words... Its getting better tho -R
Just to clarify, does Milliamp hours indicate how long it could last in relative way? Now I just need to determine the exact specs of the stryfe battery compartment and I should be able to find a 2S Lipo that fits and runs the honey badger.
I have been looking for a video like this for quite some time! Thank you so much for the great detail and practicals. Very rarely do people give the reasons behind a mod as well as examples for how they do it. Again, Thanks So much!
Official reason for the re-upload is the last 2 minutes of the video were missing. Unofficially... We are going to teach you how to be VILLAINS! -Justin
Make.Test.Battle please make a video about other better sources. I know you briefly touched on a few but I would love to know more about LiFePo4's, NiCad's, IMR's, etc.
Thanks for this video, explained a lot that I didn't understand before. I just ordered 4 neo hellcat motors for 2 hyperfire builds I'm taking on and some 3s lipos from hobbyking. I'm glad to see the parts I ordered look compatible. The batteries are a little large but no harm there
I first watched this video and didn't understand any of it, then I went on an internet binge of watching nerf mod videos and scrolling through hobbyking and blasterparts, and know I can understand almost all of it, I would be a dumbass without the internet.
"'We are number one,' but it's all synths, and it's the background to a Nerf mod guide." Man, these "we are number one" memes are getting really esoteric.
This video is awesome for a beginner like me, even three years later. Is there a newer video on this subject that may have any updates concerning this topic in our hobby, or is it just more efficient motors replacing older models? Thanks!
Great video, Filled in a gap I had on Lipo and made me wanna make a 2s2p 18650 battery tray for my next Stryfe build. Luckily I have a 3d printer and knowledge of vape batteries (Most common application of 18650 by non hobbiests) Wish me luck
I got 2 things. 1. How to calculate total use time for a 3s 1 amp/hour 25 c Lipo powering 2 rhinos 2. If the total volts for a 3s is 11.1, that would only give me 3 volts of wiggle room before I have to recharge at 7.1 volts? I don't want any of the cells to drop below 3.2, so 7.1 just doesn't seem like a lot. Or can I push it all the way to 3.2 total volts in the entire battery?
It is verrrrry hard to find the exact figures for brushless motors but a guy on the Nerf Reddit page did some testing and the ones he used seemed to perform similar to top tier 180 motors which is quite surprising. That said, there are *many* different brushless motors so whos to say some aren't better. I will definitely cover the differences between brushed and brushless in the detailed motor video -R
As an alternative for microswitches I've found in the US a chain called RadioShack carries lever/roller switches for about $3.50 a piece. Their ratings are 5A/125VAC, and I haven't had an issue with them in the last 6 months I've used them. They're not as beefy as the Omron 15A/125VAC switches it looks like Ryan has on his workbench, but they've done the job for me without any issues.
@.Make Test Battle hey nice video very informative. I'm from the drone community,nit auto dji but hand soldered freestyle quads. The lipo batteries that go upto 4.2x are HV (high voltage) standard lipos charge upto 3.8v. Tha k's for the vid I'll be using it to mod mine! Cheers.
Question...... is it me or is any one else wondering why the crimson pump recon is primed??? unless there aren't any internals yet. Excellent content I just love looking at you wall and work bench/ background 😄
I found to what you said about 14500's to be wrong. I just completed my Rapid-Pistol build with 2 MTB Rhino motors and 1 stock motor and I ran it on 3 14500 IMR's with 650mAh and 9.75 pulse C and they worked really well and I have fired the gun probably 600-700 times and my not batteries nor motors are heating up a lot and my build works very well. This is still a very indepth tutorial though. Good Job!
It make a "worked really well" but I can assure you that the motors would perform better with a proper LiPo. 9.75C burst on a 0.65mAh is only a 6.3amp burst. The stall current on each Rhino is 8ish amps so you are trying to pull ~16ish amps out of a battery that is rated for 6 amps. -R
Okay that makes sense but I do run 3 batteries on a battery pack. I would have used a LiPo for the build but the initial investment is too high for me and this is the only flywheel blaster I actually have so I don't want to spend a ton of money. I still love how it turned out and it has very good range and ROF. Thanks Though!
Loved the we are number one. I found out yesterday that Robbie's actor is battling cancer. There is a gofundme page online, go there if you are interested.
Hey Ryan. Probably won't see this, but I think I might have discovered something. Remember the rapid red? Recently thrifed one, then purchased IMRs, and one dummy battery. Didn't have to bypass the thermoster. Dunno why. Just thought you might be interested. You guys are great. Sincerely, DragonMods.
I would recommend having two differently colored wires, I have seen a lot of people confuse themselves by trying to use the same color of wire for positive and negative
If I run a 9v (yes I know its not the best option) in my stryfe with every battery (exept for the 9v itself) being a dummy battery, there would only be 9v running in it as oppose to the standard mod (With a 9v and no dummy batteries), would it burn out my stryfe? Please respond. Thank you. Reply 1
Hey Ryan! Thanks for this. Though I know the basics, it is great to have a comprehensive guide that can be linked to when people ask questions. One thing I did notice however is that you didn't go over pusher motor stuff, probably by design. I think it would be good to note that Honeybadgers and I assume Wolverines (Don't have any yet!) run great for high ROF Rapidstrikes. PS- 10S2P LiPo's exist!!! I've seen them, but I don't think you can (or would ever want to?) buy one anymore...
I did go over it very briefly, but its hard to give a good explanation of the torque requirements while keeping it simple. the rule of thumb is divide max RPM by about 4,500 for the Rate of Fire. Also I'm sure they do exist but I was just using it as an illustrative example -R
In your paper you say that we want the darts to skid as they go through the flywheels. Are you saying that knurled/grippy flywheels such as those from Worker should be avoided?
Hey MTB, I finally got around to making my rapidstrike Uzi but I'm not sure what to do with it. I am not allowed any sort of lithium battery in my household so lipos are out of the question. I am not a massive nerfer, I just like playing around the house so super fast flywheels aren't really needed I do however want a high ROF so I thought, what can I do. And I came up with this: Keep the stock wiring, replace the pusher motor with a honey badger, and use a 7.2 volt nimh pack. Will that setup increase my rate of fire? Thanks
Great video guys! Very informative. Have a quick question for you… I'm putting together a rapid pistol with three hellcat 180s. Plan on using a 1000mah 45c constant 90c burst obviously 3S lipo. Just wondering if that will be safe if the motor stall?
Is there any motors that 3 IMRs will be able to supply the current and amps? I just bought 4 IMR's. And I was initially going to run stock motors. But I that would ruin the motor. So would your mtb rhino motors be able to supply their full potential with IMR's?
Would it be possible to run honeybadgers and wolverines on 4 AA or would RPM suffer or would it only be spin up time? Also could I run rhinos and hellcats on 8 AA or would RPM suffer or would it be only spin up time? I don't give a crap about spin up.
So If I use two rhinos for the flywheels and one honey badger for the pusher in my rapidstrike, do I get a 3S and a 2S and have them running on two different circuits? PLS answer.
I still don't fully understand why 180 motors would take less cells (2S) as opposed to 130 motors taking more cells (3S), since you're applying less voltage to the larger motors than the smaller motors. I've never used Lipo batteries, so I can only assume that it's because 2S can discharge a much higher current? Still learning, trying to do the best I can.
mosfet and relay video would be awesome. Also I have been wondering if pwm module would be beneficial in flywheel based blaster? Where do you guys get ur motors and are you going to do anymore videos on hpa stuff?
When finding what amps I need for my battery do I have to take in account for the plunger motor? For ex. My case, I'm going to be running two hellcats at 23.8 amps at stall (x2) and a rhino at 7.8 amps at stall for 55.4 total, is that correct or do I only need to worry about the primary flywheel motors because the cheapest and most powerful 3s I found from where I wanna buy is a 2.2 amp 25c giving me 55 amps which is less then what I neeed by .4 please someone help lol
will 3s Lipo fry stock rapidstrike pusher motor? I can't find any suitable pusher motors anywhere, I get it I should ideally get around 10000rpm but I'm feeling lost
9:05 of course not in Nerf but there are batteries like that on some things like I have seen Lithium-ion batteries with that many volts and that many cells for electric bicycles
Thanks Ryan, this is a great video, (as most of yours are) and helped me a lot in choice of motors and batteries. I'll be buying M.T.B. motors from now on (Fang Revamped make me want to retch) and some Neo-Rhino's for my Modulus, Hyperfire, Rapidstrike and Regulator Builds, probably even my Mega Mastodon (with some shims to hold the motors in place), what pusher motor do you think would work best on a 3S setup with Neo-Rhino motors? I can do motor braking to avoid runaway firing, so that doesn't worry me, ideally I want to stick with 130 size cans, just for the simplicity and less internal and external shell cutting. Honeybadgers are 2S, right? So could I use a 3S Rhino as a pusher without any issues?
