**************ADDENDUM!!!! I can't believe I neglected to put in the scene where I measured the neck relief. It was .008". This sometimes happens. So many individual shots.
I have a very early 1960's D-28 but it was in very bad shape but i sent it for rebuild and it came our 98% good but it did not had the original pickguard ! Tod .... Would you be so kind to tell me what original color this pickguard came in this 1960s era ? I believe it was black like this one ! My guitar had one but in vinyl black cut exactly to the same specs so i threw that one away and now this is the only thing to be close to a 100% Martin D-28 !! Thanks in adavanced and yes..... you are one of my best YT channels for my guitar rebuild curiosity !
@@dnantis they came with a reddish-brown swirl from the mid 50's until 1967, then they went to black. The guards are more red than the 30's,40's or 50's. It's hard to find just the right color.
Young man. I’ve been playing acoustic guitar since 1969. You have perfectly described issues with the guitar, and how to repair them. Your video was not only informative but, accurate and precise. There was no extra embellishment to illustrate how smart you are, but a perfect amount of explanation to hit home your point. Well done.
Question: How many luthiers does it take to change a light bulb? Answer: All of them - One to actually change the bulb and the rest to talk about how they would have done it.
I only use genuine 1957 Westinghouse 50 Watt Arbuckle-thread T-77B lightbulbs. You can't get them any longer; that's why they cost so much. I use the proper factory tooling to install them, of course.
A handy tip to get off heavy adhesive like that off things is to use just ordinary household self raising flour. It will stick to the adhesive and you can easily roll it off along with the adhesive. It's much easier and less stickier than just rolling the adhesive by itself. Then you just hoover/brush up the excess flour and give a final clean up with naphtha or lighter fluid and polish it up and it's good as new. In my day job I use flour to clean grease off kitchen equipment that can't be gotten wet like parts of a microwave, deep fat friers, delicate parts of evens etc. Works just as well to get adhesive off guitars.
This was really helpful. I'm a 40-year player who has only recently started to have pros look at my guitars. You helped me understand why taking them to a luthier for a setup is so much more important than just hydrating the instrument, changing the strings, cleaning my fretboard and monkeying with the truss rod at home. I'm a beginner in SO many ways! Thank you!
Wow! This was such an enlightening post! Now I have so much respect for the luthier that fixed my mom’s 66 D28! The factory did new frets, bridge and headstock repair in 83, then it recently had the headstock fixed again (it was coming undone) and the neck reset. I took it to a luthier a few months ago to address some buzzing on C chords. Felllow measured all the way up and down, played it, looked it up and down, and told me it was my hand position. I was flabbergasted. He could have taken my money and just cleaned the guitar. He told me I was likely gripping too tight or not getting good position. Martins are special for a reason. My mom’s is definitely a player. It has never been a case queen. Thank you for posting this video.
The quality and attention to detail of your work definitely merits a higher cost for a setup. I work at an American major music realtor that does guitar setups and we charge $65 ($85.02 CA) for a basic setup, that doesn't come close to your level. Raise costs, your work is worth well more.
Something I've noticed is that you know exactly what to play at the end to showcase the work you've done. Thank you for sharing all your wisdom. I am going to systematically chisel then ends off of all my bridge pins. Great tip!
I love your videos so much. I’ve been getting into instrument repair in the last 5 years and since I’ve found your channel, I really take to stringed instruments. Found a martin for $15 (at goodwill) from 2013 and the height was atrocious. Your previous video on this showed me the proper way to go about shaving the the saddle down. My favorite guitar now.
I sit here and trip out just how knowledgeable this guy is. I have never seen someone truly master their craft and just deliver incredible results time and time again. A joy to watch . Cheers!
Another great video Boss.. the level of detail you give everyone is so great. It’s impressive the level of knowledge from your first hand experience is a luthiers treasure. Please keep up the great work. Never get tired of watching your work sir.
I absolutely love this channel. This guy is a master of his craft, so rare these days. I watch 1-3 episodes per day. I wish I had your knowledge twoodfrd.
One of the most insightful set-up videos I've seen. I own a similar guitar -- a 1993 HD-28 -- and have done a few adjustments on my own, with some success. This video gave me some new perspective on the entire process, especially the finer points of adjustment and intonation. Regarding intonation, I'm usually content to ignore it, and have never heard any complaints. I also have a 1960 Martin 00-18 and it's had dodgy intonation since day one. A neck reset in the early 90s only made matters worse, but as long as I fiddle with the tuning and keep the capo above the fifth fret I can usually get away with it!
Thank you indeed. Just yesterday I levelled the frets on my strat style guitar and did a proper setup. It was my first electric although I bought it secondhand. I could not agree more when you mentioned that it's not always about the recommended specs but about what you can get away with. It was only after I saw those very numbers when I realised the high action (that I'm used to by now) was preventing buzzing on the lower strings (even after making several saddle adjustments and checking both the neck and the nut.) I'm by no means a pro but you along with several others on this platform inspired me to start somewhere.
Thanks Ted, I appreciate the little footnote in the anthology that is your channel. Reading the comments there are many great Adhesive removal suggestions...but I get you proceed as you do. Melting the finish or pick guard with a chemical reaction created by good intentions wouldn’t be a great follow up repair video. 60 for the setup is cheap. The wealth of time and effort and trials it took to build the knowledge and skill you share with those who clamour for your videos... is truly priceless. Thanks for what you do.
For my martin D12-28 (from 1975), the pick-guard started to shrink and pull away from the top. Since I was the original owner, this was covered under the life-time warranty and it was repaired at no cost (new pick-guard installed and top refinished). Other than that, both of my Martin guitars have been flawless. This was very informative. Thanks!
Lots of good information. A note about intonation compensation. While the act of pushing down a string does increase the pitch of the string, intonation compensation is also needed because of the physical characteristics of each sting. The thicker the string is the less elastic it is, therefore the thicker strings have a "dead" spot where it passes over the saddle. It doesn't actually vibrate at this point, but further away from the saddle. With an electric adjustable bridge you can see this pattern. The wound string's saddle all shift up a bit at a fairly consistent pattern but once the strings change to plain steel, which is more stiff than wound, the saddle jumps back a bit. The remaining plain steel strings will then continue to shift in a fairly consistent pattern also. A Classical guitar with nylon strings needs no slant to its saddle because all the strings have generally all the same flexibility.
I really enjoy your videos, and the tone of your voice, is calming. Like I said before I just started playing again after about 20 years off, mostly rhythm to sing.
From a mainly electric player, that little bridge pin tip earns you my gratitude, Ted. I am ALWAYS cursed with "twangs" when replacing stings on my acoustic.
You woke up my cat with the squeeky part. The adhesive appeared to be gum based. Perhaps a citrus cleaner or Goo Gone. Another fine vid. The thing is I am not a luthier, nor even do I play, but I've watched nearly all your videos, and you do such an outstanding explanations of every repair that this set-up was reveiw for me. Also I nodded out last night with the earbuds in around minute 4, so I had to finish catching this a.m.
Thanks for the great videos! Regarding the adhesive residue on the pickguard, we have a product here that is called "Goo Gone". It comes in a little bottle and it will take that stuff off. I use it to clean the residue off my windshield when I replace the licensing stickers each year.
I enjoy watching guitar says videos. I have to tell you my friend after watching a million channels you run the back channel on RU-vid and I'm being serious as hell the knowledge that you had to disperse is so much fun to watch. I could never do this. Except maybe change volume pots
3-M "adhesive cleaner" or DuPont PrepSol works immediately on gummy adhesive. No harsh solvents, will not resolvate old finish unless left on for hours. It evaporates slowly so no rush. Any auto body supplier will have it. Thanks, always fascinating videos!
Thank you for this video! I just bought my first acoustic guitar Yamaha FGX5(Japan version of D-18) and I was not entirely happy with setup: 4,75/64 bass side and 4/64 treble side on 12th fret. Now Im happy! Yeah, Im spoiled from electric guitar, what can I say ;)
This Luthier Guy is special. New Subscriber here . you are Professional, Sensitive , Your camera angle in the video is so good, The way you treat the Guitar is Smooth and caring. Love from India Pal
In your local automotive store you may find a product called Blaster DSR (Decal and Sticker Remover). I’ve used it many times and found it safe on most guitar finishes. Even so, I am careful to only get where I want it. If you are familiar with solvent types, it’s a citrus product that smells like oranges. It comes in a spray can and I spritz a dime size wet spot on a rag over my finger for good control of the application. I do more poly finish electric guitar work and have found it didn’t damage that type of finish if I slip but I do wipe up immediately. It is very quick and effective but it can leave a thin oily residue that must be removed as a second step. Alcohol works well for that. Enjoyed the video and nice guitar 👍
I also prefer the products made for sticker removal, I use "Sticker off!", and it does a great job. I don't think I'd ever us WD-40 as some have suggested...I'm not a fan of using petroleum based products on plastics.
Try pure almond oil for conditioning, works well and no buildup. Thanks for your tips, I always learn new approaches for tackling guitar problems. Raise your prices!
Thank you for the tutorial, thoughts, and advise. They are all very helpful! I'm curious what you would have done with that road rash by the bottom of the pick guard if you had been asked to improve on the appearance there.
As someone with perfect pitch I can confirm: the intonation problem that is inherent to fretted instruments is an absolute nightmare. The other problem is: as recording engineer, when you start layering guitars with synths that don't have this problem, it can cause all sorts of issues. Sometimes we have to tune the guitar to the part and punch in. The joys of equal temperament + equal spacing.
I somehow ended up with enough extra money in 2010 to finally get a good guitar. I was 30 and had been dreaming of one day owning a Martin for 20 of those years, so I bought me a brand new D-28. It was the best purchase I've ever made. It drowns out my buddies HD-28 Custom Shop. Its actually the best sounding guitar Ive ever played.
Interesting, I did the same thing, except with a custom-D that's solid rosewood back and sides instead of mahogany. And by the same thing, I mean I bought one around 2010 when I was 30. Recently got a Yamaha that may actually sound better though. Really.
