...he mentioned right in the video, "for you machinists out there...", the dimensions to make or buy a suitable mandrel to expand this bayonet appropriately.
Because of the price, the mosin nagant was my first rifle. Inspect them closely in the store for cracked stocks and bolts. Ideally, all of the serial numbers should match. If the store allows, dry fire them and test the bolt stiffness as the bolt can get pretty stiff after being fired. Remove the bolt by pulling the bolt back and pulling the trigger to check for bore health. If all looks good, pick up your sling, empty oil can, and a bayonet that probably won't fit. Pay with a smile on your face
Good vid, thanks Eric. Not having a piece of barrel handy I had to do mine the hard way. I used a round wooden dowel, sandpaper and a dremel. Now all my bayonets will fit any of my 91/30's.
I love how hes says everything he did just like this wasn't a video and he was doing a radio broadcast. He does his videos so even the blind can benefit from them.
You can also use an adjustable reamer to take very small (maybe 2 thou?) cuts to gently open up the hole, as long as the material isn't too tough. Might be a little gentler on the bayonet, but I do like this way of doing it.
Well fuck... if you have a spare Mosin barrel laying around this might be a useful video, but it sure isn't to those who don't... which is most people.
Oh yes a punch will work fine ... if it is in the diameter of the barrel. Hmm... just haven´t such... So I will buy a second M91/30 cut apiece of the barrel and widen my damn bayonet. Ok That´s the way! :-)
Mosin Nagants were sighted in with the bayonets attached because Soviet military doctrine "strongly suggested" that the weapon was always used with the bayonet attached.
This may be an old video, but if you don't have a drimmell tool you can jury rig your own with an aluminum rod with a slit cut down the middle of it that is used to attach sandpaper to it and use a drill. This will result in a more consistent shape resulting in a better fit for the bayonet.
with the barrel harmonics topic ill put my 2 cents in. while ive only shot my 91/30 twice once with the bayonet on and once without, the first time i shot with it off i put about 60 rounds through it and was having trouble hitting anything. finally we tested it on our 50 yard paper targets, it was shooting consistently high and right by like an inch and a half. the second time with the bayonet on it was a tack driver on 2 liter bottles at 100 yards. in my book that solves it all right there.
Once cosmoline is removed and head spacing is confirmed, you can move on to ammo. You can buy the cheap military surplus bulk packs that offer fantastic value and a neat tin container but that ammunition has corrosive primers. This means that immediately after shooting, you have to pour a warm water and amonia combination down the barrel to wash away the corrosive salts. You could avoid that and use non corrosive boxer primed steel cased ammo like tula and the like. The downside is that those
i just used a round file and cleaned up the badly machined inside of the hole. If you frequently check the fit as you file you can get a tight tolerance when you are done.
A youtube friend of mine, Logcabinlooms does a lot of shooting with Mosins. He owns like 5 or 6 of them. He swears that tight or loose fitting bayonets makes a difference. His shoot left with it on..
If you stumbled across an ex sniper mosin with the filled in holes, you can get them drilled and put in one of the original PU scopes. You would also need to buy a bent bolt or have your bolt bent for that. You can purchase padded butts (hehe) or stock packs for a better feel and added function. Stripper clips can be finicky with the mosin and some work better than others. The original stripper clips are rumored to work best but are also pretty rare. Make sure to buy 7.62x54r and not other 7.62s
most of the problems is actually the black coating that are on the arsenal refinished 91/30's. I don't know what it is but it is pretty thick and it flakes off but once it wears off the bayonet goes on easier. Of course I also place the butt of my 91/30 on the ground and use that to help get the bayonet on.
That should about cover it. Don't let all of that deter you as it is all fairly basic. The mosin nagant is outstanding for the price. I have had nothing but fun with my mosin and I feel you will too. If the cosmoline and head spacing overwhelm you, take it to a gunsmith and he should be able to provide you more in depth advice if not do it himself. I don't regret my purchase at all and it is now stored proudly right along side my tricked out Remington model 700. Best of luck to you and your gun.
run hot and may lock up your gun after sustained rapid fire. It's a game of pros and cons. The round is pretty beefy and the butt plate is metal but the weight and length definitely make the recoil manageable. You're going to get people peaking at your rifle to see what made that monstrous sound in the gun range. :) Because they're so cheap and popular, there is surprisingly an aftermarket for them. You can find alternate stocks and scout scope rails to mount long eye relief scopes.
Thanks for the advice all! I picked one up and it is awesome! Can't wait to get it to the range. Gave it a good cleaning even though the store said they removed the cosmoline.
@Iraqveteran8888 Thanks for the channel mention. The bayonet can indeed make a big difference in the point of impact, and also in group size. Ammo that shot like crap without the bayonet shot great with it on.
in my research of the mosin nagant i found that the soldiers actually trained with the bayonet on the rifle and that might explain why its sighted in with the bayonet on a bit better. then something like barrel harmonics
I just used a large screwdriver and twisted it to open it up on mine. Also had to do some jewelers filing to get it to lock in place, but as you say about nick. Hey, it's Russian! BTW, I love your presentation and knowledge, i've learned alot from you and your not boring like others. I'm Air Force, were/are you? Thanks for Serving!
Merle Morrison I understood from the moment it didn't fit why it didn't fit - I didn't need to come here to teach me that. I was looking for a simple method that would fix that problem correctly. There are some without extra mosin barrels or large tapered nails to stretch the bayonet gap. It's a public form open to comments, including critique.
Too true! I have a couple of Russian automatic watches and sometimes you wind them and they don't move... nope, not broken! You just need to slap them and there they go! BTW, official servicing period of a Swiss watch is 3 years. On a Russian... 10 years :))
When you get home give the bore and action a good thorough cleaning as it has probably been sitting in Russian gunk and corrosive ammo leftovers for probably longer than you've been alive. Google Cosmoline removal. That's the rust colored, gun preservative used for storage. That involves baking your stock in the sun for a couple afternoons. Also be sure to check your head spacing. If your serial numbers match up, it should be fine but it is better to be safe then sorry. Google methods on how.
What can you use besides a rifle barrel? I used a grinder on my original bayonet but I’m not happy with the way it removed the finish on the inside. Want to get another bayonet and do this but I’m not sure where I can find a piece of metal with the required taper
Who makes the muzzle brake that uses the bayonet mount with the spike cut off and a AK-47 muzzle brake tig welded on? I have one, works great, can't remember where I got it........
@Iraqveteran8888 Std. bar stock does not have a taper on it. Its a great fix just haven't found any spare barrels laying around. Will look for a bar that will work for the masses.
Hey, nice video.. would you consider making a piece of barrel to sell and if so how much. I am having the exact same problem. I am close but I just can't seem to get that last 1/4 inch. Thanks for your reply.
i am by no means a expert or a sharpshooter but with my experience of my 91/30 the bayonet does seem to tighten groups up and it really seems to stop it from shooting so damn high.
Thank you! Although I don't have an extra length of barrel laying around (surprised me the comments you received) but I am more than just a little bit mechanically inclined so I got the principle and can figure the rest out. Good videos!
awesome! maybe I'll run mine more often now, last time I had it on mine I almost stabbed myself trying to get it off, I had to pull so hard on it when it finally let loose I some how had my head very close to the sharp end.
@Ki113r210 I know the practical use of having a bayonet, I'm asking how there is practical use for a bayonet that can barely be fit onto the rifle. This would be especially troublesome in WWII when they might have needed their bayonets on much shorter notice.
Love the information you have here. Was hoping if you had a sec... I recently a MN m44. It went on ok as i remember, but now i can't revome the bayonet. It is stuck good in the open position. any idea will be very helpful. thanks
?? is there a keeper to hold the spike in place?? when this weapon is used with the looser fit could it not come off and remain in the, hopefully dead soldier, axcepting something not seen here should it not be difficult to remove and attach? In case we need to use without the spike on a loose fit how do you make it difficult to remove so it doesn't remain in the target opposition ??? regards,
I bought my first gun 2 years ago and I have been bitten by the bug. In addition I am an avidhistory buff and love older weapons. I am really interested in buying a mosin but am inexperienced in the work that may need to be done to it. Do you think for a "newbie" I may be getting in over my head?
What's wrong with just taking a piece of hot rolled round stock the right size and using that to swage out the bayonet ring? If you don't have one the exact size, chuck a piece up in your drill press and use a file to take it down a few thousandths. No need to take a hammer to a barrel.
The reason the bayonet is so difficult to put on and take off is because the bayonet was a permanent fixture. It was only removed for storage, and travel by vehicle.
@merlock101 trench warfare dude... the only way to take ground was to push through the no mans land and take an enemy trench, things got dicey in close quarters. id rather have that bayonet on there than not.
DONT DO IT! the bayonet is supposed to be hard to put on/take off. the soviet manual of arms said the bayonet should be fixed at all times except when in a vehicle or in long term storage. Its not wrong for it to be difficult to remove or put on
@agooch7890 im a little confused about what you're saying. i dont live in Georgia personally but im interested. are you saying that the law makes it so you can carry a gun in more places than you could before? would that include colleges, and would private businesses still have the final say on who carries in their store?
how much would yall charge to do this? I live very close by your shop and would be interested in having it done just for the sake of having it fit. Feel free to PM me on here. Thanks!
You've mentioned the ball bearing trigger in past videos. I've looked and have only seen them for about $80 in cost. Is there another that is cheaper ?
wow, better ways to do that, I would have used some lapping compound, and fit the bayonet to the rifle barrel using the donor barrel, not beat it into submission...
yeah ive been using channel locks to get mine on and off, and the bayonet has several hammer marks. i pretty much tossed it aside thinking " f#@k that thing" but if it helps with accuracy,i dunno
A "simple" way to make a bayonet fit?!? So, I buy another 91/30, I cut off the barrel, grind off the front sight, and then hammer it through the bayonet. For a ten dollar bayonet. I'm just poking you in the ribs,Iraqvet. :-) Glad you made this vid. Even though your cut barrel fix isn't an option for most, it lets me know the concept so I can explore similar options. Thanks!
