BD Athlete Seb Bouin: MOVE 

For a sport route it is pretty easy

@@MarkusSojakka 9a is becoming a quite easy grade nowadays ahah

JZDVendetta i think it's part of the beta 😄

Adam Ondra has made it a cool thing - now it is supposed to mean you are climbing the hardest route at the crag - drives me nuts - I like to commune with nature and when these guys start friggin screaming at my local crag on a 12a I can't help but get pissed off........

no, definitely did not make it a cool thing at all. In fact, I thought it was stupid for a long while. But when you're climbing hard, pushed to your limit, letting out the internal pressure feels incredible. to each his own, my friend. try not to have such negative outlook! we are all climbers, after all.

@@badnews9312 some people scream as a method to breathe when they need to at certain parts of a climb. Adam Ondra said he screams the way he does because he has a strong tendency to hold his breath during hard parts of climbs. And just because someone is screaming on a 12a, doesn't mean that it is unnecessary for them to do so. They could be someone pushing through their absolute limit of their climbing grade. If screaming gets them through the route and gives them that extra bit to send their route, why not be stoked for them? I climb around 13 a/b and I hate seeing people berate "screamers" just because they think it is unnecessary for the 11c the "screamer" is on. And yes, their are people who are completely silent on 14's, but that's just them. All in all, instead of wishing people would stfu grunting and yelling on the 10b next to you, fire the psych!

@@aldricazucena9598 I don't like screaming... I think it's bad for the sport especially if a lot of non-climbers are around (fishermen, picnickers, hikers) because it means climbers have a big impact and that will ultimately hurt our access. That said, I scream on 12a even though I try not to. :)

EB

What is natural protection? You mean free solo? Ehm, no. T'he hardest free solo ever done was 8b+ by Alexander Huber ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JMCofBKTZlM.html ) and that was set decades ago. Free solo hasn't improved at all when it comes to grades.

Out of point. I am pretty sure he meant Trad climbing so using just gear placements like cams and nuts. and i am pretty sure nobody will made it in next 20 years i will be surprise if there will be more than 5 climbers who finish MOVE.

It might take more time than twenty years, but it does look like this route would take good gear... about 30 years ago, the first 8b was climbed. Watch the following video where Arnaud Petit climbs an 8b on natural pro ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--TeTejh1ebs.html

Alex Lol how do you know about that history of hardest free solo and not even know what natural protection is...

Dave MacLeod solo'ed Darwin DIxit - 8c back in 2008, which as far as I know is the hardest to date.