Most of the bead rolling i do is on 18-20ga steel. I bought a cheap set of gasket punches and cut them down to coin with. They work great. My bead roller is very similar to what you have but I'm using a gear reduction drill, chain and sprockets, and a router speed controller. It works well enough but sometimes the speed is erratic. I like how smooth your drive works. I'm definitely interested in info on that.
Yes, cut down gasket punches work excellent for coining! I had originally planned on doing the same, but decided on another route incorporating the corking tool I turned on the lathe. The smoothness of my bead roller is all thanks to the gear reduced Dayton DC motor. This Dayton 1LPY1 is rather expensive (at least for me). Luckily I was able to obtain it second hand.
I checked out the price right after I checked out your video. It was around $500 without the rectifier. It's an awesome machine but I'll stick with my drill for now lol. I'll put that money towards an English wheel. For now I use a set of modified wheels in my bead roller to do the prestretch.
Absolutely. Compensating for bead rolling is a little more forgiving than shaping for a desired crown. Just something you have keep practicing to hone the skill. A pile of messed up panels isn’t just scrap, it’s lessons learned.
Great video! I have a set of leather hole punches I cut in half and use to coin my beads... also important to note that you wanna stretch the opposite direction your bead goes, found that out the hard way
Nice . Looking to get into sheet metal work. It been 32 years since I was taught some things . What is a good name in tools . As for slip rollers, bead rollers and now thanks to you .. English wheel. Ty
Thank you very much for watching, and good on ya for taking on a new craft! As for basic sheet metal fabrication tools on the cheap.. I’d look into Eastwood tools. They perform very well for their price bracket, and I’ve been impressed with their “elite” series.
I’m into cars , trucks, coes I have 54 and it needs some floor work. Now o am restoring a 1890 - 1900 round oak 16 parlor stove . It’s the barrel there’s rust when trying to weld grows more holes . Using 023 on a 125 mig 20-80 mix . The barrel has to beads bottom, top have to roll 16 gage them lower 1 inch bead top 1/2 inch bead . Beads are for expansion from the heat of the stove . 1 inch bead is a must in the roller . As for the slip roll do I need to look for that ..a 16 gage roller .? Ty
@@expatconn7242 16 gauge steel is pretty tough to form on entry level machinery. Most bench top slip rolls are rated at a 18 gauge steel capacity or lower. Exceeding the rated capacity is ok when the material is small, for example: rolling a piece of 16 gauge that’s 4” wide in a 24” slip roll. But the wider the material you feed through the rollers, they harder they have to work. There are slip rolls available that are rated 16 gauge, but they’re rather expensive.
Your really basically making the work piece the same shape of the bottom die if you were able to over lap your tracking and when it reached that shape it would only continue to stretch into a sphere if it was possible.
I want to edge banding to 10mm. the 90 degree angles... My job is the round square, the maximum diameter is the 30 to 45 mm reduced. so how much bedroll wheel diameter required??
Hello I enjoyed your video great advice, I was able to see the tool that cuts the angle in the sheet what is its name and where can I find it. Thank you
Good eye! The tool I used to notch the corners is called a “Metalmitre”. You can usually find a pair on eBay for around $50-$70. Roper-Whitney has a similar notching tool on their site. Just be mindful of the cutting capacity, I believe 20ga steel is its maximum.
@@TheHotRodWorkshop Thank you for your answer that will help me! Have a nice day. Now I'm a subscriber. All the best for you and your videos. Lumière Créations
Just finished making a set of round bead dies so I could bead roll along the edge of a backsplash I'm putting around a new, (to me), milling machine install. Detouring to making the dies for an ancient slip roller that has shaft nubs for rolling duct crimp dies was faster, the least expensive way to stiffen the sheet metal surround & a long desired experiment of mine. Made one test die out of nylon scrap & the other from UHMW polyurethane to test durability & make the turning job shorter, then did a small test panel. It worked, (need to refine the profile b4 making in steel), but doing the larger panels by myself using the hand crank will be all but impossible, so I'm now figuring out motorization. Worth it since I use the slip roller frequently as it also can slip roll small round rod; powered will make it easier & more efficient. After watching your vid, it looks like I NOW need to make an English wheel. I used a body hammer & dolly to fix the outer part of a rounded 90⁰ corner on the test piece. Way too much pounding; decided to go w/ the sharp 90⁰. Had never seen a sharp 90⁰, figured it would be hard. Easier than the rounded corner. But I can see even if I do no arcs, the larger panel will warp. So, it's beat my brains out or make an English wheel. Arggg... Oh, yeah, after the episode of OCP, (obsessive compulsive perfectionism), you had at the end, it looks like The Press Break Project has been moved to #2 on my Sidetrack To Do list. Which moves The Widen The Hydraulic Press Project to #1, w/ a bullet.
