Just purchased some Raceline beadlocks . The ring bolt holes do not line up with the wheel perfectly. They are slightly off thus causing 3 of the 32 bolts to bind. Spoke with Greg who is a technical support help and he confirmed the manufacture process made some mistakes on 30 plus rings. No quality control on their end... as if the wheels are made in China. I spoke with Gina who handles “quality control” and she told me all aluminum Raceline wheels are made in China which explains the lack of quality control. They won’t help me directly because I purchased the wheels from both summit racing and amazon. So I’m dealing with the middle man and feel like Raceline won’t take responsibility for their lack of quality. Raceline told me “good luck”. This video shows some amazing machinery. Wish they could show some amazing wheel quality.
I have the method fake bead locks on my tacoma but that extra edge on the lip really helps when taking rocks and some trees we didn’t saw enough on the trail (couldn’t care just wanted to get to camp) and they save the sidewall and bead for sure still! Not always but can still save against some sidewall puncture
I've been considering racelines for my build since they offer my needed bolt pattern in beadlock and now the extra info about how the bolts are kept in vs others that use threaded inserts really helped seal my choice with racelines
If I have learned anything from watching AvE and his HASS mill, it's that these guys will break more money in tools than what the end product is worth.
Huge problem I see in the wheel industry is the lack of forged wheels for street use that aren't bead locks for 8 lug hd trucks. If you want a quality forged wheel you got to pay beadlock prices. Would be pretty sweet to be able to get a decent forged wheel in 17x8.5 or 17 x 9 instead of the plethora of 20" wheels kickin around that make trucks look like mall crawlers. After what just happened to my super duty because of a cast wheel I'll never run cast again on anything that has any sort of weight to the chassis. Damn near had my truck totaled due to wheel failure from a cast wheel.
Yo Chris!, Does this mean i can get the KNP as a forged mono, with custom offsets and bolt pattern? First saw your stuff on fitment inc, looks like you guys are going to take off. Your designs are tight good luck!
I grew up on and around the Rubicon trail. Us locals learned how to ignore and hide certain "DOT" crap like this. The beadlock game is always a fun argument with newby chp. Being they hate possible damage responsibility, tell them "prove those 40 bolts per $1200 wheel isn't decorative" They don't ever try to loosen them being they're too afraid to catch a liability suit. Plus not to mention, guys with trucks like myself are usually the local call to help when the towing rigs companies can't do anything to help.
Why do these guys keep talking over each other like maybe they never get recorded for videos but they really need to see how rude they are to each other I can't deal with that type of shit I know the guy recording was getting annoyed
happens a lot in sales environments, its what happens when both salesman are very educated and talented and want to get there usual selling points across. it comes across weird because there was no structure. its a test to see if the audience will like videos like this. its as simple as "hey guys wanna shoot a vid teaching everyone about beadlocks and streetlocks real quick? SURE! record, go, stop, upload. its a good thing dont worry, both are very solid and respectable brands and this transparency is a sign of product confidence, don't let a little cross-talk deter you from that.
I bough a set of beadlocks for my F150 and was told "You have to re torque them every 600 miles." My dumbass listened and over torqued a wheel and broke a bolt head off. -__- For the most part I'm a weekend warrior and mine do fine on the street so don't let this scare you away from getting a set if you want.
great salesman. Talked me out of buying beadlocks for my mostly legit weekend warrior. lowest I air down is 15-20 with a spare tire and starter fluid. didn't know they were illegal. I wonder how many jeeps I've seen with street lockers.
Had a number of guys come into a old job looking to repair deadlock wheels. Stripped holes, fatigued bolts, fused bolts and broken bolts.... get what you like but learn how to care for them.
Newbie here: I have Nitto Ridge graps, and go offroad 1 or 2 times a month. I've been told tires will slip/rotate on non beadlocks at 15 PSI. My only interest in beadlocks are lower pressure to run black trails with the safety factor of the tire not coming off the bead. What are your suggestions?
@@joshjosh7029 The tire bead will rip off the wheel when there is enough torque from a stop. Beadlocks make sure the bead doesn't move, but you won't ever need them unless you're running serious times or offroading in a very extreme manor.
You can get internal beadlocks which inflate inside a stock rim and push the sidewalls hard into the recesses which are street legal. Fitment involves drilling a extra valve stem. Its like a small inner tube inside the tyre that you run at higher pressure that forces the beads into place regardless of pressure you run in the main tyre air chamber. "Street locks" - eh? smells like pointless posture ricer crap to me... I'm putting a internal beadlock on the rear 10" slick of my dragbike because the current rear rim has no beadlock capability, and to fit a beadlock wheel involves lots more weight and expense... Form follows function.
@Fraxinus Cavum No, I have inner bladders on my 4x4 truck so I can run lower air pressures offroad without unseating the beads, but keep stock looking steel wheels (its a historic vehicle), so the only way you can see is if you go looking for them and notice two valve stems. Some of them are marketed specifically to the 4x4 crowd.
@Fraxinus Cavum That, and steel wheels are more robust (they bend in bad "incidents" and you can straighten them with a hammer). Forged aluminium wheels look nice, and they tend to be lighter. Neither of which I really need on 3t of offroad truck. Not too worried about sidewall damage either, it has (the original) military bar grip tyres and steel wheel steps, as long as it stays on the rim its good cheap dirty capable fun.
If your wondering now about the bike, there I do care about how much its wheel weighs so its a forged alloy wheel (forged is stronger than cast or machined from "billet", because the grain structure is aligned in the forging process to flow the stress better), I just can't bring myself to use the original (oldschool) solution of sheet metal screws through the side of the wheel into the slick to secure it, and why run the risk of the wrath of the scrutineers when there's a better option...
drag racing beadlocks do but its only to keep the wheel from spinning inside the tire. that's why wrinkle slicks work , off road guys just want the tire to hold air
98% of most manufacturers worldwide have at least one HAAS CNC machine if they are serious about quality and workmanship. Top of the line, even the 30+ year old machines can still do very precise milling as long as the tooling is decent.
@@r4ng3k03r1 not normal to chatter, chattering happens due to improper set up/holding of the part, too much tool length sticking out, or speed/feed of the endmill. Chattering causes ugly finishes on the part and also reduces the life of the endmill.
Not true beadlocks, check out Hanson rock monsters, those are true beadlocks. These lock a bead, so they are 1/2 beadlocks I guess... Not watching this entire video, waste of time.
@@stephenmorris3961 thy straight up said that in the video, and it doesn't even matter, everything they said about the 1/2 lock that they had in the video applies equally to full beadlocks, quit wanking yourself to your imagined knowledge superiority