Beast Of A Blade! LionSteel M7 Survival Knife 

So glad to hear that!

Ya wish I had seen it years ago

That's true, only for collectors. You get what you pay for. The only real value, is their handle designs mostly and the looks. Geometries and other details, that are the most important on a good hard use knife, are "factory level" quality and not the best too. These are either collectors knives, or for experienced users, who know how to properly reprofile them and know the limits of their blades. They come very thick behind the edge, thicker than a lot of way cheaper knives and that's a shame. Also their edge stability, on any steel they make, isn't the best, they don't hold to hard use, like a cheaper Ka-Bar or Becker for example would. Not bad, Italians where always great designers, and you can see that on their great handle desings too! But not the level of semi-custom knives, people think they are.. Not even close..

@@gideonstactical do you think sir that such steel is good for big blades? Some say that it is not, because softer steels can take more abuse. Idk it is nice knife anyway

Which M7 do you recommend the clear blade M7 or the black M7 blade? I don't want no rust! I guess the black traction coating keeps it rusting as fast! Advice please? Thanks in advance!

@@Sambo169 take some joker or cudeman in stainless :) but it wont rust that easily in m7, if you wont leave it in water or something. I have one without coating because i like the clean look, and the coating wont last that long

Awesome!

@@gideonstactical Also decided to get the T5 and the T6.

I wouldn't call them insane. Their steel and heat treatments as their thickness behind the edge, are far not the best out there. Actually thickness behind the edge and heat treatments, are on the poor side. That's why they don't cost, as much as a Fallkniven, or a TRC knife costs... That's a shame though, because the makes some of the BEST handle designs with good handle materials too. However, the blade on a knife, is more important...

@@greekveteran2715 Could you share some information or sources to that information where the HT and edge geometry is found to be on the poorer side? I've seen plenty of testing done on their M390 which has definitely been lackluster compared to the level that steel should be performing at, however, that seems to be an industry-wide problem as many other makers have the exact same issues with M390 and its analogs. It's not isolated to Lionsteel. I've seen no other data or reports of poor HT on their other steels though, so I'd be interested in seeing what information you have on this. As for edge geometry, they appear to be pretty standard and on par compared to other similar makes and models. I've heard no negative reports and have not seen any data (measurements) showing them be any thicker behind the edge or having too obtuse an edge bevel as compared to other brand's knives. So again, I'm interested to see what you can share. As you no doubt know, it's pretty typical for mass produced knives to err on the side of caution and use thicker edges with more obtuse edge bevels so as to make a knife more robust and less prone to issues requiring warranty work leading to negative press, i.e. "my knife chipped!" "my blade broke!" "this brand sucks!" So I wouldn't be surprised to find out that larger knives like this M7 are .050+ behind the edge with 25 degree edge bevels. It is marketed after hard use after all. I'd imagine The TRC Apocalypse and the Fallkniven A1 are about the same. TRC is probably more like 20 degrees per side but I bet it's pretty close on behind the edge thickness. Fallkniven is of course convex, so no angle to the edge bevel per se, but their well known to be on the thicker side for the edge, especially the pro models. The F1 is about the thinnest for their more popular models. Now, I will say, I have no Lionsteel, Fallkniven, or TRC knives and have handled none, so I'm not disagreeing with you, just curious to hear more of what you're reporting and see some data or examples because I'd definitely like to know more about this as I wouldn't mind getting some Lionsteel knives if this isn't a big issue. Thanks!

@@topfueljunkie100 You misundesrstood, what I said.Never said, they are the worse or sometihng. please, let me explain. I'm a profesionall sicne the 80's, when I got my first degree on Chemistry/Metallurgy. I make, maintain, restore and upgrade professional knives, of Cooks,Chefs Hunters, Butchers, Farmers etc. for 40 years now. I also live in the outdoors, and I have to use my knives, axes etc, in order to survive our every day here.It shows, that you speak, more from a collectors point of view. I might got you more angry,, but really hope I didn't because you're a really good and kind man. We all worship materialism nowdays, to the point anything we've bought, we have it as our precious "kid", so we get offended when someone says the truth, because truth hurts, doesn't it? Liosteel is a relatively new company, can't provide the quality the oldest companies, do. M390 costs a lot to heat treat it better. Belts cost more, to create a better blade geometry. If you wan't such a steel on your knife, avoid any Factory mass produced knife. Those steels can't be made properly in such quanties. If you're not a hunter, who uses such knives, and you're only a collector, forget what I said, because it doesn't matter...any knife is good for a collection. PS hardness of a steel (hrc) doesn't tell nothing about it's heat treatment quality. I mention that, becasue it's a common mistake. 90% RU-vidrs, that pretend to be experts, are the opposiste. so I would advise, to get your knowledge ,from proper places and not RU-vid. there is a ton of missinformation on the subject here.

@@androidoszpsz5873 If you want a good knife that you're going to use, then it all depends on the kind of use you need it for and the amount of money you can spend. A factory made knife, like the Moras, is always a good place to start.The BEST survival instructors use Morakniv, the exact same knives I suggest. Morakniv Companion and Morakniv Robust, both cost around 12$ to15$, perfect knives! If you're not going to use it much, and you just want a Heirloom quality knife, that will always be there for you and your ancestors, then ask a maker to make you one, by describing to him the style of knife you want.

Absolutely bro! It was a blast thanks again can’t wait to do it again!

Lionsteel M4, is by far their best knife (except for people with XXL hands ). Lionsteel knives, only issue, is they come very thick behind the edge, The steels that they use, most of the times and some heat treatments are not the best they could be, but they still are great user, with great fit and finish knives. Just reprofile their edges, as with all factory made knives, and it's ready for use. The reasons they come cheaper, than other knives made in quality production countries, are in my opinion (Steel, heat treatment (which also costs but people don't know that, and the thickness behind the edge) That's also why, people don't understand, why Fallknivens cost more, which is because, both lamination with 2 steels used and handmade convex zero edge bevels, cost way more to produce.

For sure!

For sure!!

I bought the M6. Pretty good so far. Nice stone wash. Sheath leaves much to be desired.

I have t6.

If you want it just get it and use it , as long as you don't go to Sainsbury's with it on your hip or act threatening in any way you'll be sweet. I use all kinds of blades and axes in the woods and never had any bother at all . This knife by the way is as good as it gets mate and is worth every penny.

I hope that means the newer ones are fixed

@@BestKCL I don't know.. I just insert the knife gently and the last inch goes in with a firm push. Yeah, I know this sounds like doing something else lol.

So far having it awhile what Sheath like now ? I'm thinking of getting one of these M7s for a trip next month to try out just wondering about the Sheath....still no problems ?

Nice, let me know how it does for you!

Thanks for watching!

Which ones?

@@gideonstactical There are 4 slits (1/4") at the top (forward) of the sheath. Mystery to me. They are just forward of the security strap. Your review was largely responsibly for my finally deciding to pick up this knife. Thanks!

It is is large, but was comfortable and not blocky on the guard. Chopped without gloves and didn’t seem to have the pain issues you did. Good feed back though really appreciate it and I am sure it will help the viewers 👍

M7 if I had both

i would rather the fc7 but both r great options

Thanks so much and I would say if you are pairing the puukko then the M7 hands down. Very capable tool and will get the most work done of the three you are looking at!

I didn't realize TOPS made the Architect. Interesting.

@@christianbarnes736 yes & if you buy the Field Buddy 6.5 & 5.5 the come with a unconditional warrenty like Esee knives

The m7 is a little bigger than 6.5 have both

@@danachadwick4919 Yeah. They are both great looking knives. You have good taste in knives.

I also have the Architect 5.5 in 3V. Incredible knife!

I don’t have rust on mine and we were in Florida. Not sure what environment u have?

They are very different knives, I may at some point.

Nice, both have the same vibe. The M7 will out chop and out split the joker. The joker will be more carryable, easier to carve because of its size, and save you $100 . Just depends on what you need.