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In this video we talk about why even if you apply an excellent and very shiny color you don't have the result you expect?
Hi, I'm Mirko Alunno founder of the program turns your passion into a passionate job
It will surely have happened to you many times, both on your customers or if you love do-it-yourself hair, in your hair.
Think that the hair is a wonderful structure where inside it is formed by various pigments from brown, red and yellow and on the outside it is covered by a cuticle of scales that incorporate and protect it, the more the structure is regular, smooth and not deformed by the erector muscle which affects the shape consequently Riccia and the more they result and a shiny hair.
The main reason for this shine is the naturally closed hair scales, and the more closed they are, the more they reflect light like a fish with its perfect closed scales.
For this reason, when the balance is altered, the shine is lacking.
When does this balance change?
1) Natural external agents such as sun and sea
2) Careless and careful washing with aggressive products
3) Excessive use of the plate
4) Technical treatments such as coloring, bleaching, perms
5) When a color is applied to a hair already of the same color
Given the topic we are dealing with today, let's talk about why coloring can give you a result of dull, dry and hard hair, even if usually on other hair they are shiny and soft.
Now I will explain to you with examples
When we apply a light brown 5 as an example, its coloring process usually takes place:
1) Swelling of the structure through ammonia or other alkaline substances.
2) Pigment subtraction process (with the help of oxygen that you have mixed with the color).
3) Deposit of the new pigments in the right quantities up to the time of the end of laying.
This, albeit artificially, recreates that structure of the right amount of pigments and after removing and rinsing the coloring by PH reaction with the right shampoo, the scales and the consequence and the shine are closed.
So why when you dye your hair it often becomes dull, hard and dry?
For excess of coloring.
Remember this rule
"There is no cosmetic color that can lighten another cosmetic color"
When we apply a cosmetic color to another color already made with a cosmetic color, we can no longer speak of balance
because since one color does not lighten the other, only a new deposit occurs on an already colored hair, leading to an overload of colored pigments.
I'll explain in detail why
Being a hair already colored and as we have said a cosmetic color does not lighten another cosmetic color so the process that takes place on a colored hair is absolutely not the same.
In this case
1) There is also a swelling of the cuticle
2) the oxidizing part comes into action but in this case it has no power to remove and lighten pigments
3) In the deposit phase the real problem occurs, because having an already colored base underneath, overloads the structure of artificial pigments, bringing the hair to a less elastic fiber and having too many coloring parts it will no longer be possible to close the external scales.
The result will be a hair that is not very bright and with a great possibility of degradation since the humidity that is inside as well as the pigments do not remain trapped since the scales have remained open.
I advise you, whenever you find yourself coloring your hair, and the background color COSMETIC COLOR is the same or even darker than the color you want to apply, to spend it only a few minutes 1-5, before the end of the exposure time, in so as to totalize the hair without overloading it.
And if your hair is already overloaded with coloring, don't worry and subscribe to the channel, because in the next video we will talk about just that and I will explain in a simple clear and understandable way how to make a cosmetic color rendition and get your target color.
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26 авг 2024