Timothy great to see your videos. Always enjoy seeing what you your going to be doing in your videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend timmothy. Forge on. Keep fixing. Keep making. God bless.
Your life path is an inspiring story for some one like me who struggled with depression and other associated issues. Keep it up man you have really earned every bit of success you have.
Very similar to my hammer! Strange how that check valve can move out with that set screw in place, but it sure is small. There is another threaded hole, why not use it?.... Are you sure about that splash oiling? I have a grease cup on the moving crank underneath. My understanding is that the oil "tray" is there just to catch all the oil from above. Great hammer!
Very interesting. I have thought, looked at and questioned this whole splash oiling system. It definitely seems weird to me. So you would have a total of three grease spots on your hammer? I currently only know of two on mine. Do you need to take your side covers off then to get at that one grease cup?
Tim!!!!! Love the hammer. Wonder if u could fab a new valve cover with a little more clearance. Then Perhaps drill and tap for a plate that will keep the valve from working out. Looks as though there's not much clearance between the valve and the cover .
no experience what so ever with the valve but could you make a flat ball bearing that fits in between the valve and the cover so it can still move but can not pop out.
it wouldnt be so much a thrust bearing, more a thrust plate. high performance engine builders use them on camshafts. brass or bronze would work a treat
Try looking for a grub screw for a taper lock bushing ( Google images to see what it looks like) most good bearing supply places should have access to them. Even TSC caries some.
Maybe it's just me, but it seems the reason you're having to constantly tap that valve back into place is because you're missing the threaded anchor. At 10:08, you pop the cover off and there's a threaded hole at the 2 o'clock position that doesn't have anything threaded into it. Those tapped holes are for a grub screw, allen screw or bolt that locks the two pieces together. The tiny little screw that you remove with the S7 punch is way undersized for the shear forces being put on it, I think, especially when it's clearly doing nothing different than the bigger hole at the 2 o'clock position. Of course, I could be entirely wrong. Maybe when they did the refurbish they had to realign things and couldn't use that big bolt hole anymore? That doesn't sound very reasonable to me, but who knows what they were thinking. Generally, though, folks don't go through all the trouble of drilling and tapping a big ol' hole like that if they don't intend for something to be screwed into it. I'd want to tinker with whatever needs tinkering with and see if I could get things back to where that hole is lined up and you can run a screw into it. Then you'll know if it's a fix for sure.
How did your slab for the hammer fall in the design requirements for the Hammer? I have never thought of that aspect before. Very basic if that is your job or occupation, mill wright. That is a lot of concrete. How bad are ground vibrations with a treadle hammer? Do you know the approximate weight of the base kinetic part of your hammer? Biggest leg power treadle that I have seen on Utube is about 40 lbs. Your hammer is a case study in ti's self.
Thanks for the info! Running into issues with electric power supply. Wanting a decent sized hammer but those are all 3 phase. Except for the Say-Mak, but they seem a bit wishy-washy for supply.
@@lamontadkins9947 Pretty much every hammer will run of 3ph. Its a bit of a trick to over come, but well worth the time and investment! Have you looked into a rotary phase converter? These can be alot cheaper and still work pretty good.
@@TimothyDyck sweet lol I just moved back to Ottawa from Edmonton. Got an apprenticeship with a Smith out here called old soldier tool works. Also used to live in Whistler lol. Love the vids man
Okay, now that I watch it again, it looks like someone's been trying to keep the machine aligned by constantly re-drilling that locking hole... and constantly downsizing the screw used. The OEM locking screw is the biggest one at the 2 o'clock position. But then there's a smaller one at the 5 o'clock position. That repair didn't work, so they put in the last and even smaller grub screw that you're having to pull out so you can tap the valve back into place. The smallest screw is something that could have been drilled in place with a hand drill. Quick and simple and it got the machine back in operation with a minimum of fuss. But.... they never addressed what the actual cause of the problem is and why they've had to drill and tap those last two holes. Again, not an expert on power hammers of any kind, so I'm shooting in the dark here.
There definitely has been some work going on in here. All the other holes don't line up any more, so its been in and out a couple times in its life. It was just told that the proper fix is to have two of these set screws in place, and they act as a lock to keep it from spinning, kinda like a double nut set up. Anyways you are right it was fixed fast in the past, and by me, but I really should get in there and do a proper job one of these days... Thanks for you help!
@@TimothyDyck As much as it might suck, I'd take the entire linkage apart, put a bolt back in the original hole and see what happens when you fire the hammer up. Something in there is worn pretty bad. You should never have an alignment pin need moved like that one has. It's just a key, basically, but one meant to stop rotational forces as well as lateral forces. You would look real close at the whole mechanism if you sheared a key or something changed and you had to move a key several inches. My guess is that something inside there was worn down pretty badly and instead of tearing the machine apart to replace it, they just rotated the valve and put in a new key/bolt. Like a car engine, it will always be the little thing that requires a complete dismantling just to access. There's just no mechanical or logical reason for the threaded key to have been moved otherwise. I could see the first tapped hole being a mistake made by some dumb apprentice, but the second threaded hole should have been spot on when the supervisor ripped the apprentice a new one and stood there while the fix was made properly. To have both of those holes now out of alignment and having to rely on that tiny little screw.... nope. That's not spec.
My valve looks exactly the same. I haven't taken my check valve part out but I doubt it matters in what angle it sits so it's strange why the big locking hole is not used.
Yep that exactly it. There is no alignment for the check valve inside of the main valve. I don't know why, but the two halves of the large hole do not match up. Like, either somebody took it out and installed it a couple degrees off from where it was, or did that on purpose. Not sure, but never-less I can't use those holes anymore...
@@TimothyDyck That's crazy! Maybe that's a replacement, or it got stuck in the wrong hammer at the factory. With old machines, you never really know! :D
Í used to work in a die design office which used a range of Beche hammers ranging from DGH 13 , DGH 20 , a huge DGH50 for forging crankshafts . Large and small lengths for trucks, marine, earth moving equipment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dQQwUGuY3Mk.htmlsi=otUIo3w2aqmXd8ar
If you use an extra thick valve cover plate, with a common ball bearing over the valve if it starts to "walk out" it will touch the ball bearing in the cover. Don't you EVER clean the machines? I know I'm picky about cleanliness, but this hammer is filthy! Dude... Soap, water, compressed air, Do something! Make a "catch plate" for the crank assembly. I've worked in machine shops since I was 15 (55 years) Clean machines work better!!! Please clean up your shop!!!
