I'm a total beginner and your episodes are brilliant to enable me to come to an informed choice of gun etc and understanding of the terminology. Thanks.
Hello. I’m new to Air Gunning and have gone down a rabbit hole while trying to gather as much information as possible to be as knowledgeable as possible. You by far have taught me more in this video than any of the many of dozens of others I’ve seen. You have a natural ability to teach and touched on things that made complete sense. I can’t fully explain or emphasize how much more comfortable I feel now going into this because of your videos. Thank you very much for making content like this! 😊
Trawled through youtube to find a good mounting and zeroing as I’m a complete novice just ordered my first springer air rifle and scope, this is by far the best video I’ve found explains the process.
I just bought a cheapo smk air rifle which came with some chonky scopes. My boy was eager to shoot it and didn't have time to zero them correctly (as shown in your very informative breakdown). My solution was rather hill Billy, I have a laser range finder that I use for work for measurements which I taped to the barrel pointing forward. Then used a pencil that I trimmed down to fit in the barrel placed it on my kitchen counter and marked both the pencil mark and the red dot from the laser on a piece of paper. Moved the paper away about 10-15m and used the laser dot to roughly place the cross hair near the laser dot, once there I turned off the laser and tweaked the cross hair to the pencil mark. It's not bang on but my boy was able to hit tin cans at that distance regularly. That said I will be following your example when I aquire better scopes. Thank you for your time and effort to put these videos together for newbies can learn 👍
i clamp it on...shoot several shots at bit of a4 at 5meters an keep moving the paper back an make adjustments...can get 3.5 centimetre groups at 60meters...1cm group at 44m.. .177 hw97k+hawke 6-24x50 sw 30 sf..8.6gr h&n trophy field...🙂👍
i do the same also with all my open sight or scopes air rifles, i find a close distance where all pellets go into the same hole, that way when i move out longer distance i know at least my windage will be spot on or if off its requires just a few clicks, if a person were to sight in a air rifle at long range they tend to fight with turret knobs more and wast good pellets, so i love the 10 yard method sight in as a stepping stone before a long range sight in, for example i have a daisy 717 and a 747 10m target pistols, if i sight them in close range first like 5 yards i can get at least windage set so that at 25 yards i dont have to fight as much for windage setting but just elevation turret, these 10m pistols has a maximum useful range of 35 yards but i can get out to 40 yards, any thing over 10 yard though is a loopy trajectory, at 25 yards pistol rest with a 5 inch black tape square for a target to match the front sight i have done 3 shots before at .500 c.t.c it seem the only limit to these pistols is your eye sight, for factory sights on rifles the average person can see a 1 inch target at 25 yards, thankfully these pistols are just making it for a one inch target at 25 yards and with maybe only a 8 inch barrel, so for the length of barrel to accuracy ratio is simply amazing, for new people the barrel length to accuracy ratio is simply how accurate a rifle or pistol is for its length of barrel, i have found that my 2 target pistol can shoot the smae even though the 747 has a lothar walther barrel, a advantage of a lothar walther barrel may be when firing lots of pellets like 5 sets of 5 match practice, aslo these lothar walther stay clean while the other pistol gets a bit dirty sooner
Thank you! I have also learned that by sticking a towel/rag in your pellet trap, you can stop the ricochets from leaving the trap and dampen the noise.
I like your videos lot of people don't catch the plum Bob it's cool you are helping people keep it up God bless I'm sorry just messing around with slang
This is how we did it in competition. First, you have to zero the scope. Adjust the elevation and windage until the reticle center does not change on the target when rotated through a full 360 degrees on a stand. Then, shim the scope to be dead on at 25 yards. This makes it so that you move the scope internals as little as possible from dead center for all your shots. The pins that drive the scope up and down and side to side do not do their job linearly. Their is error in its traverse as you move the adjustments further from dead center. And dont hold over or under. Shoot for a group, no matter the bull location. Then, make your changes. And use a full gun rest for sighting in. I suggest starting with Crossman Premiere pellets for target work. US National Champion Texas State Champion Louisiana State Champion Florida State Champion Kentucky State Champion Mississippi State Champion California State Champion 15th in the Worlds
I understand that this is an old series. I've spent roughly 112 years in military and or law enforcement. I have only watched the one video so far but I'd like to thank you immensely for not treating noobies like they ought to magicsally understand the big picture.
1. You should zero inside not a windy back garden. 2. You should fire at least 3 shots before adjusting the scope. 3. You should only adjust one plane (up/down or left/right) at a time.
Exactly right this is one of the worst examples I have ever seen!! Really quite embarrassing for someone who purportedly knows what they are doing! Really!!
Using a level across the turrets as the are very rarely level , I used a flat long kitchen knife placed under the base of turret with a small spirit level on it . Works a treat
Nice one bud,I will try the second method of zeroing my scope the next time,Makes so much sense and saves on wasting pellets,I know they are reasonably cheap but using premium pellets they work out at 2 pence each so worth doing the other way,Cheers for that vid mate.John Darling would be proud of your vids as he catered for all shooters.
Really brilliant Steve, I spent so much time to make my crosshair leveled when i buy and mount a new scope, but your way is really brilliant and easy. thanx
Steve, you said your video's were going to be aimed at the absolute beginner. I'm guessing the absolute beginner would not be using this typre of rifle or scope. Perhaps it would have been better to explain how to attach a scope to a Springer, which is what most beginner's are going to be using. Just a thought.
The process is exactly the same, perhaps I should have mentioned that in the video, but then only so far you can explain beginner things otherwise I may end up explaining what a pellet or a rifle is as well. Thanks for the comments though.
so agree i am new and i have not got pikertilly i have the other type and i just cant seem to mount it level always left or right not as easy as picatilly drives me mad on me spiringers and then i adjust the scope turn to max one way and still not enough where i must have mounted it wrong!! rar
A very useful series of vids Steve for Beginners, well done and keep it up atb brian, ps, i have now got my x-sight 5x20 x50 mounted &zeroed on my HMR.17 so looking forward to using shortly.
Good video for beginners!!! on!y one point, for real accuracy I would use something to rest on, rest bags are very cheap, or for recoilless weapons make a wooden rest !!! Atb
your 2nd way of doing it is probably the easiest way if you have the funds to buy the correct equipment too do it ( not the point of the vid I know ) what I use is a flat board of chip board with a runner running down the centre to clamp into my workmate . then fixed 3 pladtic bungs upside down to the board too accommodate the legs of the rifle stand ( Deben thingy ) the rifle is then secured down with mini bungee hooks .. and is as solid as a rock .. leaving you to employ option 2 ... expensive , yes , but also useful for cleaning barrel of rifle and general cleaning ( of which many would appreciate a video of I think ... great vid ... keep it up ..
I don't know if you have addressed this in any other videos, but the need for "droop" scope mounts is pretty common when mounting a scope, and quite often with an air file that comes with irons (open) sights, where the barrel actually "aims" or "points" low. You can often run out of elevation adjustment, if you don't use a drooper mount, and ideally you want your scope zeroed where you have it set about in the middle of your scopes elevation and windage adjustments. And the drooper mounts can come in various "minutes" of droop, like 20, 30, 40 minutes... 30 seems to be a good average. I haven't mounted a scope in years, and I'm "refreshing" my memory on various issues that I had. I usually use one piece scope mounts, and use to keep a spare 30 minute drooper mount and a normal mount to see what works best. After being away from airguns for several years (and getting older), I now realize that I need to keep better notes ! If you haven't covered drooper mounts, it may make for an interesting & educational video ! And of course there are those who don't use the drooper mounts, and just "bend" the barrel so it points up a little higher... that I have never attempted to try. I'm enjoying your videos... they are refreshing my memory, and learning knew things too!
Hello. I have thoroughly enjoyed your series for beginners. One question, if I may, if I zero-in my scope at 25 yards firing 14.3gr Crosman Premier pointed tip pellets but then go rat shooting with say H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme @18.52gr, won't my scope be out-of-zero because of the weight difference between the two pellets? In other words, won't there be trajectory differences because of one pellet weighing twice as much as the pellet I zeroed-in with?
Yes potentially it will be out of zero by a little because of the weight difference and physics. Ideally you should zero each time you change pellet weight significantly.
Great information for a newbie thank you. I have a Vantage 4-16x50, however, whilst I now understand what the numbers mean on a scope, how do you know how close you can focus? In this video you start zeroing at 10 metres, but what if you want to zero at say 5 metres? Or can’t you focus that close with any rifle scope? Sorry for what might seem like a dumb question, but I’ve only just started this sport and my main objective will be target shooting!
You need to check the parallax range of the scope or focus distance. Scopes will range from x metres to infinity. The X is what you need. If it is 10m to infinity it will not focus below 10m
Steve Allan Thank you. And thanks for the add to your Facebook group. Would this be on the AO adjustment at the end of my particular scope? I feel a numpty for asking and I can see your eyes rolling 🙄
Yes, it is either in one of 2 places, a ring at the front of the scope or a 3rd dial normally on the left hand side of the scope. Either way it is the one you focus with and normally has range markings on it. When you have it in focus, the range it reads should be the range of what you focused on. This depends on the quality of the scope how accurate it is.
I will be attempting to zero in a HW100 and Hawke Eclipse AO 3-12x50 scope. I was wondering if I should zero at 10 yards or perhaps 25 yards. I can adjust the scope for either distance, so I supposed that zeroing in at 25 yards would be ok in windless conditions. Any tips you have on how best to proceed would be appreciated, however, I guess zeroing at ten yards and then at 25, might be the best way to proceed?
Hi Steve, Just a thought it's good you explain this so clearly. But as it is meant for the absolute beginner would it not be best to cover at what magnification you set up a scope as with most nowadays are of variable power. As most package deals come with a 3-12x50 scope. Keep up the good work Jim
Instead of alligning with the line on a wall wouldn't it be better to use a thread/thing rope weighted down. Gravity will keep it straight once this aligns with the vertical lines of the crosshair it should be perfect right.?
Hi Steve great video thanks With most stocks and turret covers being rounded how do you make sure it is all level before you level the crosshairs to a wall mate Tia
you need to ensure the rifle is level, some rifles are easier to ensure they are level due to shape, some you may need a spirit level to check the rifle. Have the rifle in some form of holder makes it easier, if if it is make shift with a shooting bag. As long as it is level (ish) you will be ok, no need to get mega precise.
great job criss,IV just got myself a walther century. 22 spring piston ,do I need a gun butler to get it proper zeroed,!!PS,these videos have helped me out,,, cheers Stu..
If you mean a gun rest, no, but it does help. Use pillows and take your time and you will be fine. Over time your shooting style and accuracy will become better and hence your zeroing will become better as a result. When you are learning it is good to keep re-zeroing as your accuracy improves. Good luck.
No, check out my guide to holdover and holdunder ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cNlHHfA8q38.html. You adjust from your good known zero distance based on the distance you are actually at.
Haven't had a chance to test if it holds zero, but mounts just fine and has nice clear glass. Centered vertically true to a plumb line with the crosshairs which is always a plus!It's a great ru-vid.comUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope. There's no parallax adjustment or focus ring, so may be limited to 3-7x, have to see how it is on the range. Also be aware that the rings are "look through" so you can still use irons, but they are really tall if you only intend to use the optics. On a 22LR no biggie since I'm not shooting competitions or worried about a hard cheek press. Will boresight and range test, if all goes well, I'll leave it at that!
Setting up the scope is pain in the arsenal, but if I could do it so can you.. I need Pic Rail for my Crosman Shadow, I have scope I just need rail,,so far just open sights and I can’t complain
I do enjoy your videos. I'm new to all this so forgive my ignorance. Would it not be easier to keep the spirit level on the gun to keep that level and use a plumb line to allign the scope?
Maybe, but you need to make sure the scope is level with the rifle and the horizontal marks in the scope. My way works and involves less kit such as plumb lines. The horizontal plumb line are the bricks in the house and the spirit level on the rifle. If they are both equal you are in line with rifle and scope.
Hi Allan thanks for yr reply for my last question I have .177 cal PCP of 15 fpe. 800fps and I use 8.5 grns round head pellets for hunting. With discovery 3-12×44 AO scope I have zerod at 25 yards but am missing lot of shots my hunting targets ranges from 15 to 40 yards. Can yu suggest me at what distance should I zero my gun so that I can shoot without holdover or hold under thank yu
No matter what distance you shoot at, it will only hit centre at the zero range. You will always need hold over and under, but this will reduce depending on the speed of your projectile. As we are using airguns, we have slow speed pellets and therefore you MUST use hold over and under if your are not at your zero range. For 15 - 40m, pick 25m as a zero as it is in the middle, and then learn hold over and under for the differences. If your shooting is all over the place, practice, change pellets, watch my artillery hold video, but please don't hunt critters until you can consistently hit your target at these ranges.
How is the picture on that AGS... At higher magnification?? Most lower end scopes get blury at higher power or the eye relief gets very tricky. Most reviews people give on the type shops they claim the picture is crystal clear... But that usually isn't the case at higher power.
Hi Steve,When you focus the scope to your eye before attaching the scope to the rifle,you don’t mention what mag you did this at. Does it not matter or is there a magnification to set the focus at before eying the focus in please. 🤔
Not really, any mag will do as you are focusing the eye piece to your eye to ensure the cross hairs are crisp. Once done, leave it unless you switch between glass and no glasses and only if the cross hairs go out of focus.
@@airgunology Magnification and Focus are to completely different things, hard to believe you are instructing people... also should be zeroed at 33 yds, this is the natural peak for sub 12 ft lb rifles... with average weight pellets and of course, Zoom makes a hell of a difference... as I said, hard to believe... sorry...
Hi steve.bit of a riddle for you.i have the b.s.a. r12 i sight it up so its bang on target .the day after i shoot it again at my targets and its way off target a good foot out.why is this?.
I have clicked my scope so it shoots as far right as possible I can’t twist the notch anymore to make it shoot any further right. Yet it is still 4inches to the left what do I do??!!
This is unusual, normally it is up and down that is the problem. I would definitely check the straightness of your sight mounts / barrel and even check if the scope is faulty. Never have I heard of it being out left or right so much. Also if you are trying to zero at less than 15m, it can be difficult.
3mm, but does some times change depending on the mount. Just buy a selection pack of allen keys and then you will have no issues plus they are dirt cheap.
hi doing a good job can you do a video on how to get the best out of your scope Wat I mean is I set my scope at 10x and zero at 30 yr d's then I no that the nex mild dot Down is 40 yrs and so on in ten yrs I don't no the name for this technique ther are so meny air gunners out ther that don't no how to get the best out of ther scopes keep up the good work my friend doing a good job stay happy (si) :-) :-) :-)
My question is how do I zero a scope that the elevation and windage knobs do not click and the elevation is turned to what I believe is all the way down and the windage knob is turned all the way left HELP
Never zero a air rifle outside do to wind, zero it indoors then you know where the gun is shooting, your adjusting alot and the shot goes in the same spot
Enjoy your videos, HATE how you level your scope. The ONLY surefire way to do it correctly is using a kit like the Wheeler, where you level your rifle, then level your scope.....AFTER you set your eye relief. Using "known horizontals" or plumb lines (known verticals) leaves a lot of room for error.
I always start a zero on a new rifle / scope combination at 10m to get rough zero and for safety to make sure I can see where the pellet is going. Doesn't take much more pellets to do in fact much less than aimlessly firing at 30m not knowing where the pellet has gone and guessing.
