Simple way to put it, aim for the center, where ever the bullet actually hit adjust the reticle to line up with the bullet hole. DON'T MOVE THE GUN just adjust the reticle using the windage (left/right) and elevation (up/down) knobs. Now aim for the center using the scope again. If it's off repeat the same step until the bullet lands exactly where you aim.
Yeah as much as it is very informative, I feel the video got a bit confusing with ups/downs and left/rights. When sighting in my bow its literally just called chase the arrow. Using the common sense of the shooter, just turn the knob in the direction it needs to go for the reticle to chase the bullet hole when aiming in the same place the shot was taken. Chase the bullet!
Hey mate, great video, I know it's something very basic for you, however it helps out a lot of people including myself. you have a very clear way of instructing, step by step like thank you all the best.
Looking throught the barrel/bore Then geting the scope on paper is the best and oldest trick in the book since scopes came out. Good video. Alot of ppl dont usually tell how the windage and elevation work eighter and how it seems backwards when you use the turets.
I was taught to set up on a bench and bore sight to a mark on a bit of paper. set the rifle in a frame (like a cleaning stand) and fire a shot. then strap down the rifle in the frame and adjust the frame till the crosshair is on the dot. once secure, then adjust your scope till the crosshair is on the hole in the paper. takes 1 bullet.
thank you so much. I'm new to shooting. and all other videos I have watched about zero a rifle scope just wasn't working for me. by you haven a scope cam and showing what goes on inside the scope helped me out a lot. thank you so much for this video
Great video. I use a chamber laser and a calibrated target on the bench in my garage, then go to 50 yards at the outdoor range and adjust to be 1/4 low on target. I then switch to 100 yards. Fire one shot, while aiming at dead center, then adjust the cross hairs to the impact point of my first shot. I shoot a few more rounds to verify scope accuracy. I will then adjust elevation, according to ballistic performance charts, to allow for rise and fall to be within 6 inches (Aim point shooting) out to about 225 yards (usually about 1.5 inches high @ 100 + or -). That way I have high confidence I will hit my target with a humane shot.
Great video, nice explanation with visual to go along with it. But I'm wondering, at what yardage do you "set up" with? I've been hearing conflicting information, some saying start at 25 yards, then move to 50 yards and then 100 if you want, and others saying to just do it at 100 yards.
Tricky to explain and no doubt even trickier to film. Good job mate, these tutorial videos are well worth the time and effort you put in. I wonder if you have considered a follow up to this taking it just that bit more advanced? Discussing things like MOA and what this means in measurements at different distances, but particularly at 100yds. I know this can be confusing and might be a bugger to explain, but if a person understands how to use it the process of sighting in can be made easier again. Thanks again for the video..
Hi and thanks for the video. Is it possible that some makes of scopes will have set the turrets in the opposite direction? Eg, up on the Windage will take the cross hairs up and not down?
hey mate, I have a question that may be silly but, I sighted in my .22 tonight and was hitting 1cm 3 shot goups at 25m when the scope was at the zoom power of x3 (3x9x40mm) but lets say I zoom to the power of x5 for a better view, it seems to completely miss, is there any simple way to compensate for this? should I be sighting in with x5? i feel like this is a really idiotic thing to ask but someone explain the ZOOM physics
Hey being a shotgun guy for most of my life Zeroing in my rifle was hard because I didn't have a damn clue what to do but this got my custom built ar grouping 1" at 100 yards
Thank you for the video! Hope you can also answer my question: If my scope is zeroed at 100y and then I shoot it at say 300 then do some adjustments on elevation and windage and forget what I did. Is there an easy way to get back exactly to 100y zero without guessing? I know most people would count clicks and remember what play they have from each side of adjustment. But is there an easier way?
Yes, most scopes will let you set the dial at "0" after you sight in, so for example once you have sighted in at 100 yards, you can lift the turret and turn the dial back to "0" without it actually changing windage or elevation (because by lifting the turret it's disengaging from the actually adjustment on the scope). So then when you change your windage or elevation to say 300 yards for example, it's very easy to go back to 100 because all you need to do is turn them both back to "0" if that makes sense?
Mate on a new scope how once it's shooting straight, how do you re zero your turrets ? Mine doesn't have allen key but dials !! Ffp 6-24×50 optisan scope. Any help appreciated.. Thanks
thanks for straight forward video and instruction on sighting in. I am about to begin sighting in my first rifle scope (i have been shooting open sight target rifles for 5yrs) on a new T3x .260Rem. What is an ideal range to sight in at? would be 50m or 100m?
Cant really bore sight a 10/22. Picked up a scope for it last week, this is the best scope advice iv found so far, so ill just have a crack and skip the initial bore sighting in. Cheers again mate love the reviews.
Thanks for the video Ozzie. Question please: If you are shooting a variable magnification scope, do you sight in at the lowest...middle range....or maximum magnification of the scope ? One would think it wouldn't make a difference (with a fairly decent optic).........but I'm not quite sure what mag to begin the sighting in process with. Thanks for any help.
What you do is sight it at multiple ranges so for example 50m 75m 100m 125m 150m 200m 225m 250m until you hit the maximum range of the scope, write down the scope settings for each distance and from then on you’ll have the exact scope settings or MOA (minute of angle) for each distance. This is what snipers call a DOPE (data of previous engagement) sheet it’s also important to specifically write down the type of gun, the type of scope, the exact type of bullet your using. When you get to longer distances other factors come into play such as humidity, wind direction and even the Coriolis effect (the earths rotation) but don’t worry about that for now that is for people shooting at EXTREMELY long distances. Once you have all of the MOA data written down on your dope sheet you can print it and laminate it and get a stockholder that has a window on it and slip it in there so you’ll always have the scope settings for various distances easily available.
I am getting ready to put a red dot site on my shotgun and i am not sure how to go about sighting it? I was thinking if i use rifled slugs at some reasonable range that would get me pretty close??? Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated???
Haven't had a chance to test if it holds zero, but mounts just fine and has nice clear glass. Centered vertically true to a plumb line with the crosshairs which is always a plus!It's a great ru-vid.comUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope. There's no parallax adjustment or focus ring, so may be limited to 3-7x, have to see how it is on the range. Also be aware that the rings are "look through" so you can still use irons, but they are really tall if you only intend to use the optics. On a 22LR no biggie since I'm not shooting competitions or worried about a hard cheek press. Will boresight and range test, if all goes well, I'll leave it at that!
How I was shown to do it by an old boy. Get a big sheet of card or paper. Bore sight to roughly the middle. Take a shot. Then using a small level draw a vertical and horizontal line through the middle of you bullet hole. Then adjust your reticle until it lines up with the lines. Take another shot. If its within a half inch your good to go. If you want to zero it tighter than that, use a target and tweak it. Its that easy.
great video as always ozzie Question when you sight in your pistols do you use the same principal or do you have a different point of aim to impact for e.g you aim at 6 o'clock to hit dead center
Are you referring to open sights or a scope/red dot? Open sights I like to adjust so I have the bullet impact right on the front sight blade tip (if that makes sense) and if I have a scope/red dot, right on the centre of the dot or cross hairs...
yes with open sights when i was doing my cat h license the instructor said to set the point of aim lower at the 6 o'clock mark so the bullet impact was dead center which didn't make sense that was for target shooting
Hi Ozzie so just to confirm from you earlier comment if I was sighting in a 223 bolt action the target distance is 200 yards? Also I have no access to a farm so I assume I can do this at a rifle range?
your target has a grid on it 1/2inch 1inch squares ect would it not of been so much easier to see in inches how high and right the initial 2 shots were say 6inch high 3inch right look at the scope it tells you how many clicks per inch to adjust ! say 4 clicks per inch (at 100) so 24 clicks down and 12 clicks left next shot is in the bull no faffing around using up expensive ammo.
Not everyone has grids on their targets, so it's to demonstrate the theory behind sighting in, so if they then add an easier way, no problem, but they have the basic principles from this video...
Good video. I do have a question. I have a AR that I had a Bushnell 4-18 scope. The scope was bore sighted to the rifle. I have not been to the range yet. My question is, do I set my dails to zero before I shot or after? Thanks
No, just get it sighted-in first then set the dials to zero... that way you can make adjustments from that zero setting to dial-in at longer range, for example if you have a 100 yard zero and you want to shoot at 500 yards, you will work out how many clicks up in elevation that will be from your zero. Hope that makes sense?
***** It worked out great!! First group was less than 1 inch at 25 yards and last group was 1 1/2 at 50. The gun is great. Now if the operator can do his job it's all good. Thanks again!!
Im curious with this one - could you also aim the scope at the bullet hole and adjust the scope until the reticle is back in the middle of the target? Does this achieve the same thing or will it be way off?
@@francescocutri Thinking about it, I don't know if it really makes a difference which way you do it? But I sort of see it making more sense if you have your scope on the centre and adjust it to the bullet hole. I guess the main goal is to keep the rifle as still as possible while do it as well
Making it too complicated, look through bore and then view scope as stated, take an exact copy of the target and get a rule and measure the X Y axis (windage and elevation). Trust your scope scale adjustment usually by MOA and adjust. Most scope are 1/4 MOA per click and at 100 yards it's almost 1" to 1 MOA (1.047"). Fire a 5 shot group to get an aggregate group average accuracy and to determine the actual point of impact since no rifle is exactly the same point of impact based on 1 or 2 shot.
Buy one of the laser bore sighters or just shoot into the dirt mound at the range and start dialling in your scope til it's in the general area, then go to paper to fine tune it...
A warning to anyone and everyone. Zeroing the scope is easy but what many fail to realise is that if your SCOPE RINGS are not windage adjusted to zero MOA with the centre line of your rifle bore your rifle will not be consistent in windage adjustment at different ranges ! Its nice to assume your rings/mounts are accurate from factory but many are absolutely NOT. So why is it that I cannot find one single video on youtube for checking for scope ring zero ? I am sending back a new rifle for this exact reason. The mounts are out in both axis !
Eh? I much prefer to walk out my back door basically and sight in on my farm rather than go to a range, load and fire single rounds only, be told when to shoot and to stop shooting etc etc...
Haha, I meant distance, 100m, 200m, etc. Bugger going to the actual rifle range if you can shoot somewhere else. There seems to be a lot a dissenting opinions on the topic of which is better between the 100m and 200m zero.
Bozo The Clown ahh lol sorry misread the comment (I did think it was a strange question when I'm shooting on the farm all the time) now answer you question, it depends on the calibre and use. 223 bolt actions I like to zero at 200yards whereas a 223 semi auto I have sighted at 100yards. Rimfires generally at 50 although I'll zero at 100 if it's a 22mag or 17wsm. So it honestly depends on where, what and how I'm intending on shooting at the time...
They first need to learn how to mount a scope properly, getting it level and straight with the gun barrel there mounting it to. Getting the cross hairs level with the gun. Mounting a gun leveler on the rail to keep the gun level then when shooting it, will train your eye to level it. You can't eyeball it, it will always be way off, and twisting the gun to compensate getting the cross hairs straight will always shoot at an angle. Then only the distance you set the scope at will work. If the target is closer you will be way off and if the target is further you will be way off because of the misalignment of the scope angle. And finding the right cartridge that shoots best is important. As one brand shoots well and a different brand will not. A hunter needs his gun to shoot with a cold barrel one shot. So when sighting in for hunting let the barrel cool off before shooting another round. Or wait till later on that day to get that cold barrel shot.
sorry oz but that is a very confusing concept. why not just drop the reticle on your mpi then wind the reticle to the cpa? mpi to cpa wind the scope that way. ie, mpi needs to go up then wind the scope the way it says to go up. same for windage. boresighting is the same. your way adds extra steps into something so simple. the older scopes used to be which way to move the reticle to mpi, modern ones it's opposite.
