I don’t believe you ended up showing it, but thanks for mentioning you can install SSDs on that hidden back panel! It might’ve been obvious to most, but for some reason the perforations didn’t stand out enough to me haha😅 I was able to install my two SATA drives there which was very convenient for my build. I had a couple questions when building my almost identical Bitspower kit I was hoping you to hear your thoughts on. For the three intake fans that are positioned vertically, is there a reason you screwed them in on the inside (so that the fans are in the main section of the case with the motherboard) rather than the outside (so that the fans are in that smaller back section with most of the wires and PSU)? Aesthetically it looks better on the inside, but wouldn’t they function better as intake fans if they were on the outside so they were closer to the vents in the side panel? Also, I noticed you didn’t apply any of your own thermal paste. I know my kit had a small layer pre-applied to the CPU block. Was that sufficient for you? Did you ever have any temperature problems? The first time I built my kit, I added some of my own thermal paste and screwed the thumbscrews in like the Bitspower manual said (tight enough but make sure there’s still gaps in the coils). They mentioned a few times to be sure to not over-tighten so I payed a lot of attention to that. It must be very impactful if they repeat it that much, but then I ended up having massive temperature problems. I took the heatsink off and my thermal paste was completely lopsided, it only covered like the bottom half when that should’ve been impossible. An employee at Microcenter recommended I tighten the thumbscrews as much as I can next time, so when the thermal paste heats up and liquifies it won’t “fall down” like that. That seems to have worked really well for me this time, but if that fixed my problem, why does Bitspower recommend the other way? Why do I seem to have better contact from over-tightening when that’s what they warned against? Am I messing something else up by not leaving the gaps? I’m not sure why I had such a problem (CPU hitting 90s) the first time 🙁
@@JinNada Hey! Hope youre enjoying your build so far! To answer your questions, the vertical intake fans mounted on the inside would be best since that would provide the best cool air unobstructed or closer to the inside of the case cooling the inside better instead of caring about closer to the outside of the case. Tbh, as long as the fans are unobstructed from pulling cool air through the vent into the case, dont think it would matter much but you'd still want the fans on the inside closer to the inside of the case for air flow. That is a priority. I used the pre-applied thermal paste since thats what most people might be using but most of the time I do remove that and apply my own or better thermal paste. In this case, some people might not have their own so just used what came pre-applied which should be sufficient. There's a fine line between not screwing down the CPU cooler enough where there's too much of a gap and wont cool as well. If you overtighten, sometimes that'll push out a lot of the thermal paste and doesnt transfer the heat very well. Can also damage your motherboard or cause it to not function properly if overtightened. If it was lopsided on the bottom, sounds like the top was being tighten faster then the bottom cause the thermal paste to push down. A good rule of thumb is usually tighten evenly doing a criss cross pattern and only hand tighten until tight. I have tightened down as much as I can with a screw driver before and worked fine for me but I also know doing that is "over-tightening" and can cause problems as previously mentioned. You want it tight and even where there's thermal paste in between the CPU cooler and CPU to transfer the heat and fill the microgaps on the CPU but not too tight. Thats why its best to always stress test your PC after building to ensure everything is working as expected and its not overheating or crashing. So good work catching that! Hope this helps!
@@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc Doesnt look adjustable unfortunately. You have to take off the GPU connector block and it has holes you can put fittings in but theyre not adjustable like the CPU one. I wonder if they have one on their website? hmmm
I’m curious what you do if you need to remove or replace RAM. Like if it has issues posting or is crashing because because of RAM. Will it remove easily or do you need to drain the distro remove RAM, refill distro, troubleshoot, drain distro, add RAM, refill distro? It looks like the lines completely block the RAM.
Very good and detailed instructions. The only thing that was missing is how to detect for leaks if it fails the leak test. Since you are using air instead of water will it be obvious where the leak is coming from? I have never done a leak test on a water cooled PC with air, but I have done it on fighter aircraft. Basically you just use some soapy water. If there are any leaks in the area the water will bubble up. Now of coarse on a PC you would want to make sure power is removed before spraying the areas with say a spray bottle to check for leaks.
Thanks Ben! Yeah, filming and editing this video was a LONG process but just wanna help people out especially since people getting this might be more of a beginner
Currently in the process of trying to put together a i9 13900k 4080 build in the titan 2.0 struggling to install the water block exactly which brackets do I need to use ?
I have this case and I’m wondering if I can water cool my GPU aswell? It has 2 holes where you’d screw in fittings below where the CPUs in and out lines are…and some weird cover over the bottom 2 but.. i just don’t know. I’ve tried researching this but get mixed answers and none of the answers are exact keyword specific so I can not be sure 100%… I have the Titan one 2.0 with the stock distro plate that it includes.
i have 2 questions : .. 1- can it fit eatx ? as im worry that the side fans might be getting in the way ? 2- how much the space between the case and pump , i want it for for installing RTX4090 ( my card size is L=358.5 W=162.8 H=75.1 mm )
Nothing feels better than getting a post after building a new computer.. Amazing build I have the 011 dynamic and I wish I would have got this instead this looks like a lot of fun!. Thanks for sharing!
It does not but what I would do in your case, take off the GPU distro block to expose 2 holes (in and out ports), use the lower Out port to drop it down to a bottom rad port and then on the other bottom rad port, connect that to the gpu in port and then connect the gpu out port to the top distro in if that makes sense
@@PCBattlestations Thanks for the responses man! It's really appreciated. Your videos are great. Especially the build videos. Alot of creators aren't doing much of them anymore.
@@PCBattlestations Yeah I understand...you should look into a Corsair GPU block. I believe they have one that has everything pre built with pads, screws if I'm not mistaken...that block would be much easier to install for a beginner..and give you a full custom loop.
@@rezart8648 Yes...if your cooling your CPU and GPU, you should have two rads. Generally speaking, most people put two 360mm rads in their systems. This particular case can hold up to three...but one on top and one on bottom should be the minimum.
I just bought the this case, and I would like to upgrade to the rx 6950 xt red devil liquid. First time dealing with water cooling System , thank you for the information was really helpful
