Hi! I've got almost the same problem at my lathe. Screw/nut totally worn out. For sure because of many hours but i think also because the lack of oil at the nut. After changing the nut and screw I removed this small worm screw inside this "line up bolt" and replaced it with a lubrication nipple so I can oil the screw and nut. Later I had the change to visit the company in Croatia which produces my lathe. I could see that they do it the same way today. Further I think the screws of this cover plate are just broken. The cover plate doesn't slide. Its fixed in place. There is enough place between cross slide and carriage.
Interesting, & different. There is someone else doing a strip down but he is eregular. With you also doing a strip down there will be a chance to see what makes a lathe work, a lot of lathers avoid. Thanks.
Don’t know why all american RU-vidr are so keen to make their own acme screws. Here in Europe acme all thread is so cheap i would Never consider making it on my own.. 😅
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair i totally agree and i get the Point in making things on your self. Its fun, you gain experience and maybe it is cheaper. But for me it would be too expensive, as i had to invest in tooling and a lot of time. I just looked it up, 30mm by 6mm pitch acme all thread left handed is 60€ for 2meters of length. And that is a rolled thread, so it is harder, smoother and probably a bit more precise than a Single Point cutted one. But i respect your decision to make it yourself and wish you a lot of fun at machining the shaft👍👍
I've been subscribed to your channel for maybe 2 years and it was only within the first 7 seconds of today's video that I learned your name, Kyle. I'm sure you've probably mentioned it before, but this is the first time I saw it. Pleasure to meet you, Kyle. I'm Ben, and I'm from Queensland, Australia.
As a hobby restorer since my retirement in 2011 I've learned that the best results for me are when I finish teardown and actually determine what is required/needed to complete any project. My advice is to complete the teardown first. This avoids an unlikely disaster and allows for an exit strategy before any additional major investments of effort and monies are made and I get a sequenced plan for what order to proceed which gets me a much more complete restoration with any long lead items obtained in advance of need so stopping and restarting of project is minimized. A manual would sure be helpful. You have a lot of guts to teardown largely in the dark a machine made and designed abroard It's really very compelling to watch your high wire act. Ray Stormont
I have been in your position and only wanted to pass along my thoughts on this matter. I love the place those timberframe add ons are spectacular and wish you nothing but good will and sucess in the future. Ray@@VanoverMachineAndRepair
Question, is this a hobby shop for you or do you make a living with it? I just dont remember you speaking about what you work on typically with the machines and the videos seem to be all about repair and setup of your machines (at least the several I’ve seen). Which is fine, that what most of us are here for and for machining of course. I’m just curious is all, not implying anything bad! Thanks, keep up the cool content.
It’s a business now started as hobby several years ago. You guys see about 5 percent of the work I do. That percentage will increase time but first few years are just working on machines in spare time which is what you see
Interesting stuff. I discovered recently that McMaster-Carr sells Acme rod and precision Acme lead screw material. Nuts too. Sometimes its easier to just buy a chunk of threaded rod and modify it to fit your needs. I would bet that's a 5 TPI screw on a lathe made overseas. My chinese lathe has the same setup - inch lead screws but all the hardware is metric. I bet your main lead screw for threading is also SAE.
Hello, i have older version of that lion (c10mb) and im curious what the function of the round that part of left side of carriage is, as all the tags on my machine are worn off and i dont have manual for my machine. I think it has somthing to do with oiling system but not sure. im currently in process of making my lathe function agian so i havnt had much of chance to play around with my project lathe yet. Thanks for reading look forward to reponse if you have time.
lol why you didn't show the bottom side of the top slide xD hahaha really wanna see it! suck a huge mess to work with an european machine being north american, eh! really interesting challenge here :D
Relax. Everything takes time. When I do something I do it the right way. I haven’t decided to do that yet so it sits but believe me when there is a rack made it will be more than sufficient. That is the last step of the rebuild so buckle up you won’t see if for a while
The "hollow cap" is an oil fill hole. That acme screw and cross slide nut live in an oil bath. There are likely small holes that allow the oil to also trickle down onto the lathe bed ways - these holes often have a bit of felt in them to control flow. If you keep the cross slide screw in a full oil bath, it'll never wear out.
No oil bath but it is oiled. The round plug has an oiler installed the weird cap is to adjust the backlash nut the cavity is not sealed so the oil just drips out but yeah there are oil passages that are oiled by the oil pump but the nut is oiled manually
would the 'hollow nut' be the way to disconnect the lead screw nut - pop the blanking nut and gain access to the lead screw nut so you can push it down?
Maybe it’s a weird cap it’s not to tight of a fit but it is pressed in not sure how easy it would be to remove it from top but I think that’s their intention
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair that’s tough! Most of the straight edges that I’ve seen don’t have dovetails at these lengths. Even professional rebuilders that I know had to mill a 1.5m straight edge to be able to use it on a big grinder re-scraping
Niiiiiice lathe man, sipping on the jealous juice over here lol. I would love to start a real shop and do this for a living like you so I can have the space and work to play with bigger machines like this. Also, I do not enjoy my current day job lol. How did you get started as a business? Also, side note. Is the dial for the cross slide metric or inch? Or both? Either way, if there is a standard inch scale on the dial, then just make the appropriate pitch for whatever the scale says and it'll work fine. ;) (edit: saw the end)
Hey feel free to call me and I’ll help you where I can 847-890-9969. Or you can email me too vanovercustoms@gmail.com It’s hard to write everything out in the comments easier over phone or email.
This will be a fun project. Good start. Who are you getting the placards redone by? Do they have contact info? I have some I would like to get redone as well.
Kyle, very cool transition from laptop screen to background machine at the end. I frequently enjoy your thorough technical explanations, but little extra surprises make me want to share a clip with my friends. Well done. Looking forward to your next one.
i found myself in the exact same situation recently, i was measuring the lead screw on my chinese lathe and found it is half metric/half imperial, but the other way around (metric lead screw, imperial on the handle side) it was extremely confusing. i also have that project on standby currently because i need to fix the follow rest and i obviously dont have another lathe
Rabbit hole is not too deep so far. Hopefully there won't be too many surprises. Ironically I just started tearing into my HBM also as you get into your lathe.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I watch Vintage Machinery as well. When I had my troller/gillnetter worked on in Petersburg, Alaska I was always impressed with the machinery and the ability of those that worked at Ellis Machine. What you fellows are capable of and know is impressive, unbelievable. And so I say, good fortune to you.
