I just started going down a rabbit hole of watching taxidermy videos, but this is absolutely fascinating! I have so much respect for artists like you and how you put in so much time and effort into these pieces. Keep up the great work! ❤️
Also remember that is used to be a living animal, so it's important to make sure that the way that its life ended was proper and it's going to be a little bit more expensive because of that.
At one point animals were taxidermized with their skulls still beneath the pelt, now it’s just easier and more convenient to use foam. We went from using wooden frames and skulls, to much less wood and foam!
I’ve probably watched this video 10 times, it’s one of the best ones I’ve seen yet probably my favorite over all. I’m 17 and want am going to try mounting a doe in a week or two. I’m very excited but I keep coming back to this video to see how it’s done. It’s kind of like a tutorial for me. Thank you! Awesome work
@@yukiiasakii9758 maybe where you are, in some states like Missouri & Illinois your required to take a doe or two before the buck. In Arkansas we have a season of doe only twice a year bc there’s too many. In texas they have a month long season of doe only. Problem is not enough people shoot them to control the population of your mature bucks
I really enjoyed watching this video, you are a true artist indeed. I would have really liked to have seen captions as to explain each stage and why you do it. Fascinating stuff thank you. 😊
@@texastrapperoutdoors9887 I haven't gotten any yet, but I see them a lot on Taxidermy sites, like when I had to research stuff for school about future jobs
This creator: I will put everything in fast motion so people don’t get bored. Me: proceeds to accelerate the video playback on top of what it has already been accelerated.
Wow you did a wonderful job! I was looking into Taxidermy schools in ohio. As costly as the classes are I bet there are allot of things they teach you!
I think it's to properly fit it to the pelt. Some deer are bigger than others and therefore the foam base needs to be added to so that the pelt can fit and properly represent the original deer's look.
@@madelinew1708 Yes exactly. She was changing length of eye to nose for a better fit of the cape. Forms only come in so many sizes and it's difficult to get the pose you want with all the right dimensions; often have to change them. Looked like she also split it width-wise to carve a more realistic septum.
Love the video, I'm very new to taxidermy so this was very insightful. Quick question though, what did you put in the ears? I thought you had to turn the ears out and remove all the cartilage, from what I could see it looked like the cartilage was still attached on the inside ear portion? I hate turning out ears so I am very curious as I am currently working on a coyote. Thanks for the video!
Awesome! You made it look easy. No doubt it’s a lot of work. Why does it take most taxidermist 6 months to a year to complete a mount. Not being an ass just wondering what steps I am unaware of.
So that is true, very few taxidermist tan their own hides. They send hides in batches to tanneries who in turn are receiving them from all over. When they are sent back to the taxidermist they are usually done in the order that they received them. Since they are done one at a time this obviously adds to the length of the process. Usually a decent taxidermist will mount about 3 deer heads a day. Then a batch of mounts is left pinned to dry. When they are ready most people will paint and finish quite a few at a time like an assembly line. It is also the type off job that different people do at different speeds. The first buck I mounted I tanned the hide myself, mounted it and had it hanging on my wall in a week from the day I shot it. I have sent hides to taxidermist to flesh out for me and send to a tannery. This usually cost me around $50 then about another 75 for the eyes, ear liners and mannequin. My self mounts look about like an average bulk taxidermist would do. I have had taxidermists mount some to competition quality. I can tell the difference most people can’t.
Auto tanner machines are out (most taxidermists don't want their customers to know about these machines) that can do a complete tanning in just 4 hours. But most small or one person taxidermy shops cannot afford these machines, have an entirely separate room to set up an auto tanner, or don't want to deal with the special chemical storage. As far as 6 months to a year, that varies with each taxidermist. Some taxidermists have dozens to hundreds of mounts to do per year, so it easily takes 6 to 12 months with the huge backlog of work orders. Some just use the 6 to 12 months time frame as an overused bullshit excuse, because that is what everyone else says and does and gets away with it, so they can too. The amount of time also varies, especially if the taxidermist has a part-time or full-time job outside of doing mounts.
@@jaredwhite489 you must have been getting a poor quality one for that type of money or second hand. They go around 300- 1,000 depending on the quality of the taxidermist
@@carbonantlers5481 What do they charge for second hand mounts? Here in South Africa, I started buying second hand trophies as I only make biltong of what I shoot. Bought a Rowland Ward 101" Kudu for 23$ and from there on just kept buying second hand lol. The trophy was a mere two years old according to the taxidermy receipt (shot 2018).
Hi! I have a question. My dog chewed off the nose and ears of my stuffed coyote. Is there anyway to get replacement parts or do I need to bring it back to my taxidermist? 🤷♂️😄
How do you keep the hide from not hardening. Looking to get started. Tanned a couple hides for rugs. Do you have to break the skin or just act quickly after tanning?
Nice job ! You sure use alot of hide paste and iv never seen the nose cut off and put back ? Or I believe you bondo the ears ? Never saw that either but nice for sure !
Boa noite aqui MISTER WADO TATUAGEM DESDE 1980 !!!seu trabalho é magnífico!!!parabéns!!!pena que estou muito longe !!sou do Brasil!!!com toda certeza si eu morace próximo à vc eu seria seu aluno !!!!parabéns pelo seu trabalho !!
Hello! I am a professional Taxidermist over 20 years Now, and have mounted maybe 6 Does in those years. HUNDREDS OF Bucks, lol. I’m just curious Why such a Long Incision on an Animal with NO Antlers?? Even my bucks get a 4 inch Short Y Cut. That’s It! Lol. On a Couple Doe Mounts a made a Very small incision just to access the ears. Idk About you, But I HATE Sewing any extra than I need to! If someone brings me a Long Y Incision Buck, I Charge them Extra to mount it, But Sew Up all but 4 Inches below the Burrs. I make it a Short Y To Start. Was just curious is all. Thanks for the video.
Hey, thanks for the support! I bought this hide from another taxidermist. This was my first solo mount out of school. The cuts she had in the video is what she came to me with. I was grateful for the long incision due to her skinny neck. Having to get the hide over the head portion of the form was still a bit difficult even with the long incision and stretching the cape just prior. I don’t mind sewing, it’s almost calming to me lol what I dread is ever getting a bull elk in that’s split allllll the way down his shoulders. That’s when I’ll contemplate being upset haha
@@rebeccastaxidermychannel2987 Gotcha! I cape Bull Elk out with maybe a 12 inch Short Y Cut! That’s all you really need. No Need at all for long Y Elk Unless there’s a Very Drastic turn. If sewing Calms you, that’s Cool! For me, Like The Waterboy Says- ITS THE DEVIL!! 😂😂😂
Rose Steinsiek if you have the money, I would recommend a school. In, Texas, the school I attended is Central Texas School of Taxidermy in Snyder Texas. There is a 6 week course that I attended and a 2 week course that only covers whitetail and antler boards.
Look up “Taxidermy Univerity” theres DVDs you can purchase on specific subjects and they’re packed with information. Clint Rickey has an AWESOME course on whitetail!
To better fit the shape of the skin, you see the foam forms you buy are mass produced and are all one size where as the skin a client sends in will obviously be a different size also he's doing it to give more definition as far as facial features go
(I know I’m late) Animals (much like people) do not have identical features to one another. The proportions can be different, their faces aren't always symmetrical, etc. We have to remember that these were living creatures at some point, not factory produced toys. And the molds are made for just some random deer, not custom made for the skin. So modifications make the mount actually look like an animal, instead of those bad taxidermy mounts that you see memed all the time. The first modification to the snout seemed to make it longer, because the deer had a longer muzzle. The second was either for asymmetrical features, or to make the snout wider. Possibly both.
I have absolutely knowledge about taxidermy. Why was the snout cut off in the very beginning and then shown reattached immediately. Same question for cutting it into a quarter then some brown "glue" just to put it back on? I mean this seriously and genuinely curious.
(I know I’m late) Animals (much like people) do not have identical features to one another. The proportions can be different, their faces aren't always symmetrical, etc. We have to remember that these were living creatures at some point, not factory produced toys. And the molds are made for just some random deer, not custom made for the skin. So modifications make the mount actually look like an animal, instead of those bad taxidermy mounts that you see memed all the time. The first modification to the snout seemed to make it longer, because the deer had a longer muzzle. The second was either for asymmetrical features, or to make the snout wider. Possibly both.
Animals (much like people) do not have identical features to one another. The proportions can be different, their faces aren't always symmetrical, etc. We have to remember that these were living creatures at some point, not factory produced toys. And the molds are made for just some random deer, not custom made for the skin. So modifications make the mount actually look like an animal, instead of those bad taxidermy mounts that you see memed all the time. The first modification to the snout seemed to make it longer, because the deer had a longer muzzle. The second was either for asymmetrical features, or to make the snout wider. Possibly both.
A freind of mine does this on the side. He charges 500 bucks for to be done. He is doing my 10 pointer that I got. I paid him 500. Ill be getting it back anytime now. I another guy chargers 700 bucks plus and takes over 2 years to get it back
@@rebeccastaxidermychannel2987 Yeah i looked there its a cool store but dang is it expensive. If i bought on could i mold the manikin then cast it so i can do multiple? Thanks for the reply.
@@texastrapperoutdoors9887 I mean, you probably could mold it, but these forms are made with a high density foam that they mold under a lot of pressure. You might be better off carving or wrapping your own form using the skinned carcass as a reference to replicate. You can do cool poses and position them any way you want that you can’t buy a form for. Taxidermists used to make forms from wrapping excelsior around wooden bases. Some still do. Excelsior is also called wood wool.
Im not trying to sound like a ass but I'm a fellow taxidermist and I'm still trying to figure out why you cut the nose down the middle ? It looks like you just cut it so you could Bondo it back on ?
So I cut it down the middle (between both nostrils) and used bondo to put it back together to create a septum. The bondo color and texture it gets from the foam creates a lifelike septum. After its hardened and cured, I go back in to carve out the nostrils. The bondo creates a perfect middle line and it’s easy to see if one side is bigger than the other.
@@texastwosteppin1680 the bondo that remains in the middle stays there and is almost like a backing to carve the nostrils with. I dig down to it through the nostrils and go along it back as far as I can reach. Uncovering the bondo gives a nice fleshy pink that you don’t have to paint onto it