Behold! My new 3D Printer FINALLY!-but can I even use it? 

quick tip : Dust is your worst enemy when 3d printing. it gets on your filament, and then block the small hole in your hotend and you get a clog, which can be a pain to clean. keep your filament in ziplock bags when not it use, and have it in a seperate room than all the woodworking shenanigans that happens at berm peak ! (don't keep it in an office though. even if it's mostly fine, you don't want to be breathing plastic melting fumes all day long)

Prusa is phenomenal. We have two at our office and they were bawked at by the naysayers but every print is flawless. Something to keep in mind, be sure that the direction of print is going to be strongest for the application..for example, if you are printing a clamp around a tube, every layer of the print should be the clamp shape that goes around the tube. once something is anchored, its more likely to fail at the bonding of each layer than it would be to rip the single layer apart. Just something to keep in mind when you think about how you're modeling or laying out the orientation of print. You can also remove the need for support structure if you use chamfers or gussets in some cases. 3D printers can incrementally print into unsupported space. For example, you can print a hole in a plate going vertically because you incrementally open and close the gap. You can also to come degree run a tap into parts if your hole has a large enough wall thickness. You could also just buy brass threaded inserts and heat them up with a soldering iron and push them into the plastic.

Oh man, careful so you don’t get too excited about 3dprinting! You’ll end up designing stuff instead of riding 🤪. Love it! You did an amazing job introducing the start/journey most of us have going into 3dprinting. Well done!

i can’t explain how much i love these videos especially when i can’t go on a ride

Looks great Seth! I do CAD for a living and live 15 minutes away from you. If you want or need to do some more advanced stuff and don't have the time, I'd love to help.

Dude- you have a great knack for 3d design. It’s definitely not easier to design than print- you just have a talent.

Absolute perfect video for showcasing the capabilities of home scale 3D printing. Excellent work

perfect for RC accessories and custom parts 😉

Super slick!!! If I can get to a point in the future to take on something new, this is definitely top of the list. Thanks for making it feel more approachable 🤘

This is basically the reason I bought a 3D printer. I always followed channels around technology but they made it look so difficult. This was the first video I've seen where the subject (You) started the journey from the absolute beginning and made it look approachable. I did not regret my choice. Thank you Seth!

Love 3d printers. And what you are doing is the definition of prototyping. You are using that printer exactly as intended (rapid prototyping) Keep it up. There is so much to learn about 3d printers, even just keeping it limited to the FDM style you have here (and there are so many other types) but keep learning and keep trying stuff!

I love that you post this on the main channel

Love it Seth! As someone with a channel built around 3D printing for bikes I am SO stoked to see you dabbling in this.

Wooo! Finally! Another awesome free modeling software is Fusion 360. Way more advanced, allowing you to get into way more detail. But I still use TinkerCAD like 95% of the time, cause that’s all I really need for what I make xD Plus, Autodesk makes both of the two programs! So you can use the same account! (Models are not shared between programs) (Do note that Fusion 360 is only free for hobbyists / personal use. If you’re using it to make money, they have a commercial plan. I would think that if you just mention it and show a bit in a video, that it’s fine. So long as you’re not selling things you design in it. But please read up on that yourself, so you don’t get in trouble with them)

Haha Seth is slowly combining all my hobbies! Love it, Prusa is great 👍🏻

Here are some tips for 3d printing. Different filament types: Different materials print differently and are stronger/weaker. PLA is the most common and best for most things. It's strong enough but not that heat resistant. PETG is like PLA, a little harder to print well, but has a higher heat tolerance and is stronger. TPU is flexible 3d print filament. It I heard it is harder to print but I have no experience with it. ABS is very heat resistant and strong, but you need an exclosure to print it and it is very hard to print. Temperatures: The bed temperature is really important and changes based on the filament. The bed temp affects how well the prints stick to the plate that it prints on. 40-60 degrees is normal for PLA, but ABS and PETG can be around 80. The nozzle temperature is super important too. Too low and the filament won't go out, but too high and there will be stringing (when there are thin pieces of filament across points where the nozzle travels across) Retraction: The retraction setting helps improve the stringing. Retraction pulls the filament back during travels so it doesn't leak out of the nozzle and make thin pieces of plastic. A good retraction setting varies a lot based on the printer, temperature its being printed at, the material, and more. Fiddle with this setting to find a good one for what you are doing. Inkfill: Inkfill is what is in between the walls. You can change the percent to change how dense it is. The default inkfill shape is probably lines, but octet or cubic is best for durable builds with a infill percent around 40-80%. Layer hight: Layer hight changes the width of each layer. A 0.2mm layer hight is normal, with .16 being better for prints with more detail. Walls: Walls change the amount of outer layers that are solid on the print. 2 is normal but something around 4 is better for builds that need to be more durable. I hope you read this I spent like 20 min writing it.

Top tip, on Tinker CAD there’s a setting to adjust the smoothness of the curve on the circle, makes it look less like an octagon! 😉

I am so glad you got into making your own things right away!!! So excited

This is literally the best RU-vid channel ever, watch it since I was a child

Finally one of us, Mountainbikes and 3D Printers, perfect combination!

You said it was the closest thing to prototyping, but we call that rapid prototyping where you just quikcly and cheaply manufacture parts to see if the concept works before spending money on the full build, awesome stuff!

You should really look into Filaments, depending on which one you use for a specific application it could be quite dangerous. PLA for example is great for prototyping, its cheap, easy to print and environmentally friendly. But its bad with heat, sun rays and pressure. could lead a stem spacer for example to slowly compress unter the tension from the stemcap and lead to a quite dangerous, unstable bike. You might want to use ABS or PETG for that then. Keep up the great content, loving the newer stuff :)

Heh, I work at Prusa, I asked for them to give one to Seth. Nobody responded. He bought one anyway. Task failed successfully 😁

So much fun to see some one else experience that progressions of "Neat I can make a thing. I wonder if it was different... Oh I can make it different!"

Glad to see you finally bought one! There were so many times on the channel where I knew you'd absolutely love it because of how specific you like things to be. I think it's good that you went with a Prusa, I ended up going the Ender 3 v2 route and spent a good week tinkering things but I was prepared for that, for someone new who wants to figure out the 3d modeling side of things and not the printing side of things, it's definitely the right choice.

Love that you jumped straight into CAD modeling. Me? I spent weeks printing plastic boats and knick-knacks. Fusion 360 is a big boy CAD software that has free a "hobby" license so you could look into that if Tinkercad isn't cutting it anymore.

The Prusa is a good choice. A bit pricey but really user friendly. While I prefer the cheaper options like the Ender 3, you can't beat the Prusa in reliability. I love tinkering and 'improving' my cheaper printer though.

You made a great choice for your printer. People give Prusa crap about the higher cost for an older design, but the fact of the matter is that they just work, and work well right out of the box with about as minimal tinkering as possible (for a 3D printer). My first printer was one of the cheaper ones that was given to me as a Bday gift from my wife. Awesome gift, but the problem was that I spent more time tinkering with and tuning the printer than actually printing stuff...and the print quality was still mediocre at best. Picked up an older Prusa MK2S used and it's been SO much better. Better quality, better speed, and it just plain works. Loved the video though, and definitely looking forward to seeing what else you use it to make in the future...

Hey Seth! I just wanted to give you a tip that you shouldn't be using PLA for most bike parts. The orange spool you got is PETG and that's perfect. There are two reasons for PLA not being ideal for bikes, and that PETG works much better for. 1. It deforms during constant stress. If you imagine a shelf L bracket, that would sag over time with PLA. Same goes for things that are clamped on or especially friction fit. After a while they'll stretch and no longer fit. 2. It becomes soft in high heats. On a hot summer day, your PLA parts will bend and deform before your bike makes it to the trail head. Around 60-70 degrees Celsius is where it becomes really soft, which the surface on a bike in the sun might hit. PETG is difficult to print with, though you have a great printer for it. The default PETG profile is probably fine but print slow, print hot, and don't use the cooling fan. PETG is thick and viscous compared to the silver PLA you've been printing with. You might get a lot of stringing but you can do some pathing changes like avoiding perimeters on retraction to reduce it. Happy printing!

Couple of tips, I've been 3d printing for a while. Tinkercads great, but as you get better, making complex designs takes dramatically longer. Try onshape, it's a new and very different approach to design, but for your applications it's definitely worth it. Onshapes free, and browser based just like tinkercad. You can also eliminate the polygon like patter or cylindrical objects. If your not Interested that's completely fine. Last tip is with cylindrical objects in tinkercad, you can eliminate the polygon like pattern by increasing the amount of segments you have. You will find this in the same tab as group and ungroup. Have fun!

I’m so happy this day has finally come. I can’t wait to see what you make Seth!

Lovin the fabricobbeling.

As someone who has co-run a 3d printing business.. i am so glad you went with a prusa. Top choice!

The 2 things I love the most in one Video: Bikes and 3d printing :D

Seth. You’ve ruined bikes for me 😂 I only just found out that everything is a cylinder. Thanks mate. Love your videos. Keep them coming. ❤

There are sooooo many cycling youtubers doing their thing but I have found the best here and I'm actually mainly a road or Velodrome cyclist!

welcome to the 3D printing club! the Prusa is awesome, been loving mine ever since i got it in 2019!

Tip. In thinkercad you can increase the cylinder resolution to get smooth round cylinder when printing.

I love when my hobbies all seem to collide. Been printing for awhile have a couple Prusa's myself and was happy to see this video. Certainly made a good choice with the MK3s+, the thing is a work horse. Always enjoy the content you make, and interested to see where this takes you.

Design for Printing is a concept similar to Design for Manufacturing (DFM). Generally, you need a stable/wide and always flat base to adhere to the print bed, wall thickness that gives you enough durability for the job, optimize print parameters like infill type and percentage/number of exterior layers, sometimes split a part into 2 or 3 parts that fit together so you can use the printing grain in its strong direction against bending and tension, strengthen parts with long holes that you can later epoxy carbon or wood rods into, sometimes augment with structural materials that allow you to span greater distances than the print bed (if you print a tripod, use carbon or AL tube for then legs and print the hub and feet, for example)

Hey Seth, Fellow 3d printer user here, a few things you should know. First do not modify your 3D printer. I have a creality ender 3v2 it's about a $300 printer and it's not the best and so I decided to make it better and modified it and it made it much worse. Also if you're scrolling through the comments and thinking about getting a 3D printer by a any cubic Kobra. And second for 3D modeling software I would personally recommend fusion 360, you can get it for free for personal use. It has a relatively simple software and doesn't take that long to learn 2-3 hours. And this is coming from a previous user of TinkerCAD. Happy printing.

Man, that’s so dope! 🔥

This rekindled my interest in 3D printers. I'm sure I can find many uses around the house, car, and photography bag.

You being a content creator, I agree with your choice to get a Prusa i3 printer. My own i3 MK2S has been great for the last few years. I would like to recommend that you grab a Raspberry Pi and look at running some software like OctoPrint. it will allow you to wirelessly control your printer from anywhere in the house. With an attached webcam you can remote monitor prints for failures. With the proper setup of a reverse proxy you could even access the printer from anywhere in the world. OctoPrint is super simple to setup. Use something like Belena Etcher to install OctoPrint on an SD card, plug the SD card into the Pi, plug the printer into the Pi, power on, go to the web portal by accessing the IP address of the Pi, just follow the instructions to add your printer to the software.

Welcome to the community Seth like to see what you do with the printer.

Congrats on your new bundle of joy!

chainring-bolt spacers are perfect to put between the inflater and the co2 cartridge. You can thread them together with no risk of puncturing and it keeps the inflator more secure.

Welcome to the 3D printing club! I've had that printer for several years now and have been very happy with it. Great designs by the way!!

If you start running software upgrades like klliper and a few hardware things like a all metal hot end and a heated enclosure you can print Carbon fiber nylon which will be the the most useable filament for bikes, through klliper you can also run octo print for remote printing and easy monitoring.

It's so cool to see you learning 3D printing! It's one of my favourite hobbies

Bro Finally!!! Great Seth!!! Congrats on your new equipment!

i'm impressed that 3d printers have enough resolution that you can actually thread something on. i've always wanted to 3d print a mount for my phone. i sit in traffic a lot on my commute, and want to put my phone in the gap above my steering wheel so i can scrub through a video. i'm mainly just listening to the audio but i use the visual to know what part i'm scrubbing to

10:27 these little clips are the reason I subscribed

I've been 3d printing for 2 years and can say it's more complicated than it looks but when you get the hang of it, It's the best. I use cura 5 for all my prints and it's 100% my favorite slicer I've ever used

The printer will come in incredibly useful with experience in use. The quick shot of your little one got a smile from me too

That's a great machine. It is a work horse! Give it love and it will treat you right!. Nice job

That's a game changer tools for evryday day tinkering. It boosted creativity for lot's of us. Love your video.

I have been wanting a Prusa for about 2 years for personal use. I used to be a Machinist and CNC operator so the 3d printer at home would fix my creative tinkering bug. Have a iphone charging cord that pulls out of the wall? Print a cover with a small clip that keeps the wire from pulling out. Simple stuff like that. Will I ever get my money back? No, but I will have hours of fun making random stuff.

Hi Seth, I was actually super excited to watch this video when I found out you got a Prusa 3D printer. I actually have 5 of these exact same printers and I can tell you that you aren't going to find ones any better for that price. These printers work amazing and I'm super happy you chose Prusa because their customer service is great too. A couple of few for you, if you plan on making parts that are actually going to live on the bike, I REALLY recommend using ASB filament. It's just a little bit harder to print, but it's way stronger. Also, when printing towers like the original CO2 holder, you should use a ~2mm brim instead of supports, and that will prevent your tower from falling over. Also, TinkerCAD is a great software for making 3D models, especially when you're new to it, but to prevent the jagged edges on all of the cylinders you created, you can go to the options once you drop in your cylinder, and increase the number of sides to make it much smoother and closer to an actual cylinder. Anyway, glad you bought a Prusa 3D printer and I hope you have a lot of fun with it!

Beyond printing mounts my second favorite use for my 3d printer is to print tools for around the shop. Need something to hold your stem in the bike while your fork is off for service no problem.

Recycle the scrap by melting into coffee coasters - etch them or sign them and sell them or give them as additional merchandise freebies...

The the amount you spent you should have gotten a Bambu Lab X1carbon. It's 2-5x faster. Can print exotic materials due to having an enclosure. Faster, larger build volume, accurate, Lidar, auto bed leveling, around the same price. I fully assembled prusa mk3s+ is $1100 the bambu lab is $1000 for the x1 or 1200 for the X1carbon with a hardened steel nozzle, camera for monitoring, timelapse, side blower fan and the ability to added a multi material addon. ($1450)

I’ve had the same printer for 2 years and absolutely love it. It’s been dead on reliable say for some adhesion issues with PLA but I almost always use PETG so it doesn’t really matter. Your cad program of choice will be open on your computer for the next 6 months as every problem you encounter will be solved with 3d printing.

I am gonna type here some material characteristics so you can rely on that. PLA: -The most commonly used one Printing temperature: 190°C-215°C depending on the filament. U will always need to find that out when printing with different brand fillaments. Prusas are commonly run on 195-210. I find that 205 and 210 is the most used temperature for Pla. - It's good for some stuff and for some other not so.. U will figure that out... - Speed: from 15mm/s at least to 150mm/s MAX (thats for some big stuff without any complicated parts) - Warps when exposed to sunlight (not uv resistant. PETG: - The one that is probably the best all rounder.. - It's not fragile. A little bit flexible. - Printing temperature: 220°C-255°C. Again, you need to figure it out for every brand... IT'S GOOD TO WRITE THE TEMP DOWN SOMEWHERE so you don't need to test every brand every time. - It requires slow printing speeds so anywhere from 12mm/s - 40mm/s will be good. Again, it depends on what are you printing. For more complicated parts with more curves.., use slower speeds ..... - Uv resistant. To sum it all up: I would say use petg as much as you can. PLA : Temp: 190°C-215°C Speed: 20mm/s-150mm/s (average is arround 60) - NOT UV resistant PETG: Temp: 220°C-255°C Speed: 12mm/s - 40mm/s - UV resistant PRO TIP: always use 0.5mm layer thickness ( not hight ). You can go to where it says "Advanced" in prusa slicer (not the advanced where in the right top corner) and change that. That will provide you with a lot stronger part than 0.4mm thickness. I hope you pin this so anyone can learn something today ✌️

I have been studying 3d design in school for a couple of years now and still for 2 more, really love this field of study

Allways a great day when Seth uploads

We just got a similar one in school last thursday. Cant wait to use it

You should make a dummy break disc you put on while working on the bike so when you press on the break by accident it won’t mess with your break

Hello, I have been using this Prusa model for almost a year and it is fantastic, for hobby prints it is enough. I can recommend building enclosure from IKEA LACK tables for more specific prints. Try as many filament types as you can, each one has different characteristics and advantages. I am using SolidWorks, it is not for free, but it is really good peice of software for professional application. If you want to make something stronger, try to increase your infill, increase the number of perimetres and decrese the layer height. Also keep in mind how the object is printed. The object could be stronger if you place it differently, so it won't brake in the layer. Happy printing !!

Hello from Spain, thank you very much for adding the subtitles in Spanish, if I already liked your channel before, now I will enjoy it much more. By the way, I am using the Google translator.😂😂

Here is a little tip for you, in the slicer setting if you use gyroid infill the infill will be stronger and print wayyyy faster

Thanks Seth! I was on the fence on what printer to get and almost clicked on the Prusa a few days again. Love your videos and will be pulling the mountain bike down for some fall riding up here in WA state! Thanks again for all the great videos.

Extremely clever ideas seth!

This is awesome! I designed and printed my grips from flexible material with internal ventilation/moisture channels. They are great and highly durable! Oh, and props for the steep learning curve! TinkerCad is awesome and you can also use it for your crawlers

welcome to the 3D club! awesome to see tinker cad, i love using that for quick simple designs!

You can put a little bit of glue mixed with water on build plate so that prints can stick to build plate for long time or until it is hot. Spread that glue and water all over the build plate. I am doing that after 3-4 prints. It works!

I also just got my first 3d printer. What a coincidence!

Another really cool video. Another benefit of custom 3D printing is to custom make spare plastic parts as required, instead of a manufacturer making many spare parts and storing them in the hope they are needed, thus causing wastage and storage issues. Would be great if car dealers/bike shops could simply print simple plastic pieces when required, instead of ordering expensive parts due to the whole warehousing & storage & transport system.

Good choice on the mk3s

Give your parts some tolerance. For instance if you have a hole or thread you want to print, make it 0.2mm larger in diameter so your parts don't bind and you get a nice fit.

I saw the thumbnail and i was like " wait is this a thomas sanladerer video? Or cnc kitchen?" Then i saw berm peak and was like omgomgomg and btw, your cartridge holder looks nice. Way nicer than my first model

Amazing to me how expensive Prusa is yet I had none of these issues with my $100 Ender 3 Pro out of the box. While I don't doubt they're good and many people swear by Prusa the Ender 3 pro is an absolute steal. I printed with it for 6 months without issue before I even started upgrading when getting into more difficult prints/filaments. For a beginner out of the box it is a very capable machine. I was always weary due to all the people saying you need hours of troubleshooting for every print and you needed to level the bed every print. You do get leveling issues from time to time but I would go months without leveling issues or failed prints. If you're looking to get into 3d printing the Ender3 pro will do 95% of what the Prusa will for a fraction of the price. Don't let the lower price fool you into thinking it's way less capable. Main things to look for on 3d printers, make sure the bed is level and your filament stays dry. They sell reuseable vacuum seal bags. Anytime you have filament sitting for extended period I recommend sealing it.

Seeing the successful Czech company on your channel warms my heart.

What I would recommend to you (I don't think anyone here has written it already) is to buy a 3DLAC or something similar, it helps with bed adhesion. I had problems with adhesion, and since I started using it, this problem no longer exists. Next, I would buy different sheets. I recommend the original Prusa satin sheet if you want to maintain a smooth surface, plus all materials which I printed on it, were very well printable in combination with 3DLAC (The smooth sheet is easily scratchable). And one more thing, sometimes the material can contain too much moisture and this will most often cause stringing. To prevent this, you can dry the filament, or what is probably the best way is to buy/build an enclosure where the filament will be hidden inside the chamber (such as the original enclosure from Prusa, or you can build a similar one as a project into the future).

Glad to welcome you to the 3d printing community :)

I'm a machinist. I desing my parts with a pencil and a piece of paper and machine them by myself 💪. Did a lot of things for example a wheel truing stand, a bench vice, Tools, special tools and the best part ever a head set cap where you can put a bottle cap from a beer bottle on it 😁 the list never ends...always wanted to get a good 3D printer...

Woohoo! Welcome to the 3D Printing fam 🙌🏼🙂

I see this printer in your garage -- keep in mind that some (most) filament types are SUPER hygroscopic and will soak in the humidity from the air if stored in the open. Some filaments like PETG become nearly impossible to get good prints when the filament is "wet". Store your filament in a sealed box with desiccant to keep them dry and usable.

Cool ! Now you can use this for some RC crawler action as well !

Hey yeah Seth. Banger of a video. Effortless. This is what RU-vid is made for.

I originally bought an Ender 3 and after about 48 hours of actual tinkering time and not being able to get a successful print I gave up and bought a prusa. Well worth it and very happy.

Onshape Is probably the most capable CAD sophware that's also free.

I would recommend PLA filament if your looking for one.

Great choice Seth! I love mine.

I stopped watching ur vids when I stopped riding and I've been into 3d printing awesome that you got a new hobby I gotta fix my bike now 🤣

Congrats Seth!

tips from a 3d printer user: Your first print failed because it wasnt sticking to the bed, you nee more surface area so it adheres better to the build plate also, tinkercad is a fairly limited CAD program, if you wanted to stay web-based, you could move to something like OnShape, happy printing!

Prusa was a very good choice! More printing less careing! Nice to see ideas for bikes 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Once you start doing more complex designs, I would recommend onshape as a CAD!

Man, welcome to the club! It definitely is addictive to start making your own things, haha 3D printers are amazing at solving those very specific problems that you can't find in forums. Whip up a part, wait a few hours, and you're happy! Prusas are truly amazing workhorses. You won't be disappointed!