I just bought a similar tool rest and was looking for information about how best to use it. Your video was exactly what I needed. I watched it a couple of times. Thank you and Fine Woodworking for showing us how.
That is a slow speed grinder running at 1750 RPM not the "usual" grinder which runs at 3600 RPM. The higher speed is going to heat up the tool even faster. But I like the idea of the rounded grinding face of the wheel which I will tryout tonight.
I've watched a lot of videos on how to sharpen chisels/plane irons on a bench grinder. This is the first video I've seen that explained the process in a clear manner. It's the only video I've seen on the subject that was actually helpful. I ended up getting a jig made by Peach Tree, from Amazon. It works great. I use it with a vintage hand crank grinder, so there's no worry about overheating and losing the temper. I can lock it into the sliding mechanism, and check it with a small machinist square. Then I can slide it left and right, with my left hand, while cranking the grinder with my right. I briefly tried doing it free hand on an electric grinder. Very briefly. That was a disaster. I'm pretty sure the guys who do it free hand are using some sort of black magic.
Very informative video, I appreciate it very much. I'll be getting one of those jigs and hopefully I can sharpen things quickly and easily just like you demonstrate. Thanks for sharing!!!
As some one from the wood lathe world, which put my flat work world mostly on hold, this sharpening video is 2 to 3 years out of date. CBN grinding wheels are so much better than standard wheels, that the standard friable wheels are now obsolete. Check out D Way grinding wheels.
Still a relevant way to sharpen and great tips on how to set proper angles, but I've heard you should NOT quench the metal! Severe temperature changes in the metal created by dipping it in cold water has the possibility of creating hairline cracks in the metal at the thinnest part of the blade. If your tool is that hot, you've probably left it on the wheel too long, or are pushing too hard. A really neat trick is to use a heat sink from a discarded computer to help cool the steel without risking changing the metalurgy of the steel - it works amazingly well. I've also noticed that the specific grinder used by Asa in this video is a "low" speed grinder (
Newbie question: I have (new to me) a sealed Craftsman commercial 6" grinder and two new wheels. The nuts that go on the arbor tighten clockwise on the Right side and counterclockwise on the Left. There is no place on the inside of the wheels to grasp the shaft. How do I get the nuts tight on the arbor without the shaft spinning ? There is no place where the shaft can be held like on a Dremel, and a wedge will not work, as the arbor just spins. What is the proper technique to tighten these nuts ? By hand perhaps and the spin does the rest ? Jam nuts don 't seem to be a very good idea. Perplexed.
senorboardhead; You need to use both hands and maybe use a wood wedge while you tighten the nut. Your grinder will need both wheels to be balanced (not wobbling). Then and only then do you dress your wheels true. If done well your grinder will hummmmmm along with you while you sharpen your tools. An important thing is to have FUN doing it eh… ÜïÖ
In that case, can the grain size of 120 be used for polishing? I've got at a disposal an even finer wheel, I suppose it should be used for final polishing of the cutting edge?
@@ognjenradojevic, "Final Polishing" of what "Edge"? What are we talking about? Lawnmower Blades, or Carving Chisels? Grits like 36 & 60 are mostly for coarse work in the metalworking trades, especially on the 3400 RPM bench grinder. While a 1750 RPM (slow speed - dry) bench grinder would be better for wood working tools, I find 100 & 120. or 150 grit, with a light touch, is much better for shaping and getting the wood working blades prepped for stoning than anything coarser. Don't forget, for most all blades, the back inch or so must be flattened before you shape the edge, and again after you stone the blade you have to once again hold the back of the blade FLAT against the stone to remove the burr with a few passes. Then it's as sharp as you've made it.
Excellent, thank you! Subscribed! I needed the tool rest information, and grinding chisel blade tips. 1. Can you recommend a good quality grinding wheel dresser tool? So much junk on Amazon. 2. Anyone know of a decent CBN grinding wheel? Apparently it is better (and cheaper) than a diamond grinding wheel as it does not heat up easily and second in hardness after a diamond. So you get 4 things with a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheel: Bushings are machined and fit well reducing vibration of wheel, material is a heat sink and does not overheat, it is much harder than regular stone wheels, you do not need to prep the wheel with dressing it like a stone wheel. Prices on Amazon run $70 - $80 each for CBN wheels, and they vary in arbor hole size. Some are 'diamond' coated but avoid these. Get the all CBN material. Not sure of what grit to get either -80 or finer, to sharpen chisels, drill bits, and kitchen knives. I am a novice at sharpening and bench grinders. I could really use some help. I also need a 6" bench grinder and was considering the Metabo. It is easy to slip off the housing guards and this is a big advantage. Please advise - anyone?
Yes. The bench grinder is to prep the blade for the sharpening stone. You should flatten the final inch or so of the blade on your stone before grinding to have a reference point for the shaping on the grinder. Then, after the grinder shaping and then the stoning, you must again lightly flatten the back to remove the burr.
This is what I've never understood about bench grinders: If you are chisel grinding an edge, don't you want a flat grind? Doesn't the wheel lend itself to a concave edge geometry?
Ann Cluckey . some people prefer it that way. Ive known people invert the whole rig just to have a grinder that spins upward. It depends on what you need it for. People make jigs for this and that.
I just seen that tool rest for the first time, can you tell me what it's called again? I need to grind down aluminum panels the size of small pictures. I need to grind the edges to a 45 degree angle. I might be able to slide the panel in those thin slots. Do you know of similar tool rests? Thanks!!
I was hoping since it was a fine homebuilding video I could use it for my students...no safety gear at all. I cant show that to my students...safety first!
Nice video but you only sharpen half of it you forgot the most important part before you sharpen the Bevel you most flatten the back of the chisel or you’re not going to have the sharpest tool possible Flattening the back Is the hardest and longest part of sharpening a chisel in many times overlooked I hope this helps you going forward
Agreed. And, for anyone not familiar with the concept, you do not flatten the back of a blade on the bench grinder but on your sharpening stone - Oil, Water, or Diamond.
how would you go about griding the teeth off of a chainsaw chain? I saw a prop chainsaw in a video that bench grinded the teeth off a chainsaw chain and made it harmless because im trying to make a horror movie and want it to be as authenthic as possible.
