Great video! Thanks for the explanation and demonstration. My son had a fall and mechanic said the fork needs changing. It is suspicious, but now I can check it and see for myself! Great! Thanks!
No never got round to it. I didn’t ride much during winter this year so didn’t need them. I think the problem was the phone charger I have on my bike... it’s a bit cheap and lost its ability to turn off. So it was slowly draining the battery 24/7.
If you have a bent tube alot of things could happen one you won't be able to rotate ur tube when you loosen them it will pinch in the tree somewhat another thing that can happen IA when u spin the wheel the brake pad pinches . Or thats what happen with last bent fork I dealt with . I'm going to try ur method though today because mine looks bent but roled . Good video. Though and don't think torch on front end is that much to worry about. As long as its tight Not like a compensator or head . It would take you for ever to get done with a job if you torched everything I'd think.
Thanks Gareth. Yea I was really worried for a while. It was obvious the guy had no idea of how to work with bikes. I wish I had paid more attention but it was 2 in the morning after a 200+ mile day on the bike. Wasn’t 100% with it. But no damage done it seems. 👍
You should pull them off and apart and check with straight edge against your uppers. Check every 1/6 points of the pipe. If possible on lathe and check with an dial indicator if you want to be 100% sure.
I sure hope that you now have a torque wrench! I really don’t think that the paint will help you avoid over torquing your bolts: there’s basically no visible difference in the position of bolts even when the torque applied is really different. I just used mine this afternoon, and the bolt seldom moved when I applied the correct torque, after I had « manually » applied a very low torque with the spanner.
No still don't have one. But I definitely will. I admit the paint method is a bit rudimentary, but teamed with some level of thoughtfulness when tightening up bolts it helps.... to an extent. What torque wrench do you have? I found it difficult to find out which is the best / best value for money
Alternator or regulator rectifier is probably burnt out. Fazer 600 s2 is renowned for it. Ive replaced mine 3 times. Code 46 is a charging issue. I hope this can help.
Thanks very much. I replaced the battery, that was a quick fix, and did clear the code. So I also plan to run some tests on the regular rectifier and also the stator. Thanks very much for the help! 👍
The line method is definitely not perfect but does give you a rough idea. And that teamed with some thoughtfulness when tighten up… it’s etter than nothing. Although I will admit a torque wrench is what I need! Do you have one? If so can you recommend? Thanks for watching 😊👍
I admit I have never done this. However, this seems to be the sloppy mechanic's way of doing this. "Technically" there are no perfectly straight tubes. So the proper way to do this would be to disassemble the bottom of the forks and use a dial caliper to determine run out at the bottom of the tube. There should be an acceptable and unacceptable amount of runout just like on a disc brake rotor. Looking for "Slop" while everything is moving is not reliable. Another way to do this is again a dial caliper and determine the amount of forward throw and reward throw of the tube as the tube rotates 360 degrees. All movement must be eliminated except tube rotation. DONOT TRUST YOUR EYES WITH A WILD ASS GUESS! MEASURE IT!
It’s a good way to do a visual inspection if you drop it out on a trip and want to know if it’s safe to limp it back to camp- or if you don’t have the calipers or know-how to check the runout before paying a mechanic to tell you you’re bent on top of the parts and repair- BUT I was Also thinking that he should have at least immobilized the front wheel. There certainly could have been some undetected waggle because everything was moving.