Your video should be the 'gold standard' for youtube 'howto' videos. Scripting, audio, camera, lighting - all perfect. I just purchased a 1301 tactical LE version and your two videos make the ultimate video user manual. Beretta should hire you :-) Again, thank you!!!!
Thanks so much for the positive vibes Joe! Glad you liked the videos 👍👍. You’ll love the 1301, it’s a great shotgun and will pretty much run most cartridges and loads. Enjoy!
@@StrollaLawDefense thanks 😊 glad you liked it. I do go to town on cleaning and maintenance but I like to know it’s clean and 100% serviceable when I pull the trigger 👍
Thanks so much for the feedback 😎 it’s a great shotgun and as the receiver and construction is similar with other beretta semi autos (A300 and A300 series) hopefully they will find this guide useful too. Lol, yes couldn’t decide between AR or 1911 so got one with both 😁
@@xhag1x did you see this video Beretta 1301 User Guide: How it works, Loading & Unloading (Part 2) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Bj2ARCHjNY.html
@@JonCresswellUk I’d say the removal of the gas ring in the piston. I’ve watched several cleaning videos on the 1301 and A400 and have not seen anyone remove that piece. I’ve also never seen that bore jag you used. I liked the close ups you provided throughout the entirety of the video and the tips you offered. Especially depressing the bolt release while removing the trigger group. It was an excellent video man! I appreciate the time you spent making it for everyone. 👍🏻. I saved the video.
@@JonCresswellUk 1. disassembly for sure, including safety check 2. some tricks, e.g. not to clean the barrel without choke - it really helps when someone has a little knowledge about shotguns, 3. putting it back all together 4. video quality, your comments, good speaking pace and structure of entire video - this is one of the best examples of what a good tutorial is
@@ThePumazor that’s great you got so much from it 👍👍. The clean with choke I’m is critical - otherwise you can damage threads or introduce fouling to the threads. It’s such a great shotgun, hope you enjoy shooting yours too.
To be fair I probably over clean! I guess it depends on how much you put through it at the range and how dirty the action/gas parts are getting. The gas parts do have a “self clean” action as they are supposed to scrape off excess carbon, but I wouldn’t advise relying on this as I know a friend whose gas port holes got clogged up. I’d say that it’s definitely good practice to give the barrel a pull through with some cleaner and leave it lightly oiled.
@@JonCresswellUk that was pretty much what I was thinking to do. Unless I'm putting 500 rounds through that day. Every other range day strip it down and clean. I just got the 1301 haven't even fired it yet. Still a little nervous to take it apart for the first time. I did pull a bore snake through already just to clean it of any factory left grease. Your video will definitely help.
Thanks Joe. It’s easier to strip than it looks - I hope the videos help. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it when you go to the range. I had a smile from ear to ear when I shot mine.
Hi, it could be a large carbon build up in your gas parts? If you follow the disassembly procedure it should slide out of the receiver and off the . You could maybe try squirting a bit of gun oil to loosen it off. I hope that helps.
Great video! I'm considering getting one of these, but have not been able to find one in any stores yet. I have not yet been able to get a reliable number on what the length of pull is. I'm short, so I need a short LOP. Any chance you could tell me what the LOP is(either with our without the spacer) Thanks!
The 1301 pro comps are hard to find in the USA due to import restrictions and you get one the tube will likely have a plug in it as well because again federal import restrictions. However there are aftermarket magazine options to get your capacity to 10+1 or more. I just ordered mine brother. Honestly I think the 1301 is one of the better race guns.
@@ericalger2072 I have a Toni systems magazine that holds 10 cartridges 😉, but there are lots of options out there. I’ve seen a nice mag that extends when you load it and contracts when you shoot it which is pretty neat
WD-40 🫠. If you’re going to use a spray you should consider a spray oil like Browning Leiga spray as it’ll be better than WD-40. I use this to wipe over my rifles and shotgun after wet weather 👍
I give mine a good clean after every shoot, but I’m quite funny about cleaning and maintaining my guns. The gas parts to the shotgun are supposedly “self cleaning” as they will scrape the worst off, but I’d probably say clean after you go through a slab (250+) of cartridges.
Here’s the other Beretta 1301 video - Beretta 1301 User Guide: How it works, Loading & Unloading (Part 2) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Bj2ARCHjNY.html
No not at all. Prove its clear so it’s safe to work on. Leave the working parts forward. Remove the trigger mech pin and then you can remove the trigger mech.
@@_DST0NE_ I’m not actually sure what a “trigger bow” is 🤷♂️ couldn’t see it in the parts list (www.brownells.co.uk/Schematics/Beretta/Shotguns/Beretta-1301-Competition-Trigger-Schematic). Maybe the exploded schematic will help you strip the trigger mech? Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
@@JonCresswellUk that schematic did help actually.. not sure why I couldn't find that on Beretta's site. I'll be trying to extract parts #94-98 & 101 from the trigger assembly, and then swap out the actual trigger. Wish me luck 🙏🏻🤞
@@_DST0NE_ glad it helped. Agreed it would be useful to have those schematics in the product manual or on the beretta website. Good luck with your trigger strip down!
My cleaning kit is made from Boretech products. I Use Shotgun blend, XP Oil, Patch jag, Patches, and a shotgun rod. the dental scrapers i got off amazon.
@@JonCresswellUk Thank you sir, enjoyed the video. Liked the looks of that jag...made sense to me. Just got a 1301 tactical but want to clean it before shooting.
I agree that watching reviews and how to videos helps you to select the appropriate equipment. There is so much choice out there and one gun is not right for everyone. Glad you found a gun that suits your needs 👍
Hey Jon great videos as always on your 1301, I've seen some people replace the spring with a stronger one or at least thats what they say it is. Is that necessary? Mahalo
Wow VN i sure am glad this Video popped up randomly. Didnt see it when i searched the other day. The other vids for cleaning the 1301 are Good. This vid is The Best. Audio clean, lighting bright and edits are 👌🏻💯 This will always be my go to video for cleaning my 1301. keep up the good work Thank you
Awesome 🤩 thanks for the feedback. Glad you found the video helpful, and pleased it popped up on your feed 👍👍. Please share the link with fellow shooters to help spread the word 😎
Do you have a video showing how to install the Beretta Picatinny rail on the 1301? I purchased this firearm a few months ago and unfortunately didn’t purchase the tactical version which has it already assembled. Much appreciated!
Hi, really sorry but I don’t have a video on that. I shoot it “standard” so no optics. The comp pro comes with pre drilled holes in the top of the receiver and you can pick up the correct picatinny rail at estore.beretta.com/en-eu/beretta-picatinny-rail-for-1301/tx4/. I can’t see anything online about it, but my beretta has little plastic inserts in the top that you can remove to expose the threaded holes. The rail at the link should just bolt straight into those holes in the receiver. Hope that helps.
Well done mate thank you for the detail. I just got the Beretta 1301 tac for home defense. Thus far I am very pleased. Greetings for the United States as well.
Once you’ve pushed the jag and patch through, the dirty patch will fall off when you pull the rod back out. So you couldn’t pull it back and forth. Some people only push the brush through one way too, I am a bit lazy for that, so use it to scrub the barrel. Then when I push the patches through it cleans all the gunk from the barrel out the muzzle end
🙂 thanks for the useful feedback John 👍. I’ll try to speed up or remove duplicated processes in any new videos. It’s always a balance of trying to show the whole process and not covering enough, but your suggestion is really useful feedback for me so thanks 😊
I’m a cleaning freak, so I clean it after every range day. I usually get through a few hundred cartridges each time…you probably don’t need to clean as much as I do as the gas plug has teeth on the expansion ring which (supposedly) self cleans the gas parts. I wouldn’t rely on that though as you’ll need to make sure the gas port holes in the barrel and the gas block stay clear from carbon.
Thanks for sharing. My mag tube usually has more stubborn carbon where the gas system covers it. Yours cleaned right up. Also, what type of brush are you using, stainless steel or brass?
I clean it after each day of shooting and it had around 200 cartridges through it. The oiled rag helps to get it off, as you could see, it comes off with each wipe. The brass wire brush was from Amazon, there’s a link in the description that should take you there. Sometimes if the carbon is really caked on I may use a bit of scotchbrite pad.
@@JonCresswellUk that must be it. I clean my 1301 Tac, Gen 2 once every 6 months, whether it needs it or not. 😜👍 And I must have at least 8-900 rounds through it. Well thanks again. You really impressed me with putting back the action bar return spring. I had to use masking tape and crazy contortions to put mine back. You made it look easy. 👍👍👍
@@flyboytim2009 Thank you for saying you clean your only every 6 months and after 8-900 rounds The video creator says he does this after every use of 200 rounds. I would give up shooting if I had to do that.
I’m sure you don’t need to clean it as much as I do 🤣. I just clean it after each time I fire it. It’s a habit I have - I struggle to put them away dirty 🤪, a bit of post shooting therapy. Having said that if I had comps or shoots over a whole weekend I’d only clean it when I’m done.
I finally managed to use mine, I have some problem and don't know the cause. First, the internal part of the body has been scrapped off (speaking of the anodization) by the cartridge elevator, Is this a common problem? Second, shooting with 35g ammunition for some reason make some of those, situated in the magazine, to fall off, straight down to the ground from the end of the magazine, before getting on the elevator. Third, the end of the magazine tube Is slightly melted by the Heat coming out from the barrell. I don't know if you still havn't fired the gun in this video, because It seems perfect, but if you did, I'm pretty scared that mine may have major issues. Please help me to understand if this Is common or not. Thank you
I’ve had mine for a couple of years and use it for practical shotgun so have put quite a few cartridges through it. It sounds like yours has a problem with the loading gate/receiver assembly 🤔. If it’s scraping off the anodised paint then it may be catching? I’ve never had cartridges fall from the magazine either. If I were you I’d take it to the shop you got it from or a gun smith and ask them to take a look at it and fault find. The end of my mag tube has carbon deposits on it but hasn’t melted. I’ve not know them to melt either. Definitely get it checked out.
@@JonCresswellUk I'm cleaning now, and It looks you are right about the tube, it's Just carbon, but I have no idea about how to clean, I don't want to use a metal brush because It would scratch of the anodization. Any tips?
This NEEDS to come standard issue with the 1301 in the box or a card with a link to this!! So in depth!!! And I'm jumping online to get some new supplies to make my shotgun cleaning easier!! Thanks again, brother!!
Can’t remember if i did it in my video, but I do treat the outer barrel and breech to some spray oil (I use the Leiga spray from Browning for this. The large can lasts ages) then wipe it dry - especially if it’s been raining.
@@JonCresswellUk you use that BoreTech stuff. I'm going today to do some of the stuff you showed. Especially the reloading. After I get some things installed once they arrive! Eagerly awaiting my delivery guy haha.
Thanks Richard 👍. Did you see my Beretta 1301 User Guide: How it works, Loading & Unloading (Part 2) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Bj2ARCHjNY.html
It’s a smooth barrel. I use the rod and wire back and forth to clean the barrel, then I push patches through (or use a bore snake) from the chamber end.
@@JonCresswellUk Okay thank you. I have 1301 Tactical. I assume same thing? I never thought it could be damaging but I started to queation after hearing from others. I'm vert new to the gun world so still learning.
I don’t even understand why you’re even doing all that it’s a self cleaning system. You definitely don’t need to do that every time you shoot the gun you’re wearing the parts out even faster by taking it apart that much and that gun won’t corrode because it’s a aluminum and stainless steel
Thank you for reaching out to me. Unfortunately stainless steel can also corrode. It does so at a slower rate, but to protect my guns components I make sure I remove fowling, moisture and any dirt/dust. Shooting in the UK we have a lot of foul weather, so guns get exposed to rain and mud frequently. I’m ex-military so gun/rifle cleaning is ingrained, however, to keep your gun serviceable I would recommend keeping it clean. You may not need to clean the gas parts every time, but it’s worth checking them, and maybe taking the worst off, as the 2 vent holes into the barrel and the small holes in the gas block can clog up (this happened to a friend of mine).
Beretta say it's self cleaning but it's not. After 6000round most of my gas ports were clogged with a mix of lead and carbon. It doesn't need to be cleaned every time but every 2000 round now I'll be doing it
@JoeC92 true, always good to check the 2 ports in the barrel that feed the gas parts. It does get the worst of it off, but like you said, no need to clean every time, but good to do a deep clean periodically to keep it functioning.
@@JonCresswellUk It very much did help! First disassembly and cleaning today and this was just what I needed. Added bonus was that I bought the exact same Boretech stuff, so this was one to one exact demonstration. Thank you. :)
Thank you very much for your mail . The item I want is currently sold out. I don’t know if it can be ordered from Japan . But I will email the shop when it goes on sale again
Took my 1301 comp 21" out to the range today. For some reason it kept failing to cycle rounds. The round was a Score (Canadian company) 2¾" 1oz target slug, low recoil. It would fire one slug, then not eject. I'd manually eject the slug. Pull trigger and a click. I called Stoeger-Beretta Canada. The lady said I should be using 1⅛-1¼ oz slugs. Preferably 3" round for break in. I'm gonna clean her up good and get some heavier rounds. I thought you didn't need a break in period with the 1301. If you do, how many rounds?
I didn’t think they needed breaking in either! I ran a slab (250) 32g 7.5 birdshot through mine and then used 38g 7.5 and it hasn’t skipped a beat. I’ve not used slug in it yet.
@@JonCresswellUk thanks. Another question if you don't mind. When I took off the forend, I noticed a black rubber ring gasket had come loose. I'm presuming it fits in the top of the forend and thus when put together, rests against the gas block.
@@JonCresswellUk what do you mean by "slab" (250)? That buckshot? I have those two, but can only shoot slugs at the range or bird shot or target loads at the skeet range.
Absolutely awesome! Thank you very much. I didn’t know exactly how to clean and certainly not the areas to oil or NOT OIL as my 1301 did not come with any type of instructions…
