FWIW, I staked mine and still had a little movement. ( Maybe I just wasn't whacking it hard enough.) I ended up wiping a tiny bit of GOOP adhesive sealant into the gap between the rear of the ejector and receiver cutout. That seemed to do it nicely. It's firm but flexible and 100% reversible should i ever need to replace the ejector .
Thanks again for the detail you go into - really helps us new owners just getting into the B14R. Have you done anything with the stock trigger to make it better or do you replace it for competition?
I'm a little late commenting on this video. I especially appreciate the bolt disassembly part. My B-14R is relatively new and I haven't had any ejection issues so far. Does staking the ejector yourself void the warranty? I'm not a qualified gunsmith or blacksmith so I would probably send to Bergara for repair. What do they do to fix the problem? Hopefully, they replace the ejector with a properly sized one rather than messing up the finish on the receiver.
Greetings! This would not void your warranty ( direct communication with Bergara). If you have issues and send it back, they would replace with a thicker ejector.
I have not broken a firing pin in 20k plus rounds now. I do dry fire it, but if I'm going to be doing it over and over again I put a spent casing or drywall anchor in to minimize the chance of damaging the pin. Thanks for watching!
I tried staking mine and ended up with it making contact with the bolt once I reassembled everything. When I say making contact, I'm not talking about a light rub... it was literally jamming the bolt to the point where it was extremely hard to move. Do you know of any other way to shim or pin the thing in place? Thanks!
Great video will save this when I need to service my bolt. Just bought this rifle yesterday and wondering if you know of a safe way to de cock the bolt to take tension off of the spring if storing the bolt out of the rifle. Is this possible?
Sorry for the delayed response, I must have overlooked this! To decock, simply twist the shroud/cocking piece and it will drop down into the ramped portion. To recock prior to reinserting, just twist the other direction
I personally have not used the shims. I know some people that have and had slight improvement and some that tried and saw no improvement. Mine shoots good enough that I haven't felt the need to test the shims yet
Just shot my first 100 round on mine. No failure to eject issues but massive failure to feed issues last 5 rounds of all types of ammo never the first 5 rounds... any thoughts?
What is the best bore guide and cleaning rod for cleaning these? The extractor is in the way and rubs the cleaning rod and scuffed the coating on my rod.
My ejection issue is the 4th or 5th round the casing doesn’t get pulled out and remains in the barrel breach. The paws on the bolt aren’t grabbing the case rim. Any suggestions? Thanks. Oh and the gun has run flawlessly thru thousands of rounds until now. I notice the spring tension on one paw is much lighter than the other side. Which I believe is normal.
Hey man, I run a B-14 for PRS and want to build an NRL22 rig cuz.. ammo costs. I also want to use it to run some local fun 22lr competitions but they are timed more so than the longer range stuff. How quick do you think you can run the bolt accurately on a b14r and shoot 5 targets (2-5") from 15 yards to 25 yards - with lots of practice? Think I could get away with running the bolt quickish 20-40 seconds depending on range - or should I just buy a semi and build my NRL rig completely seperate... it might be nice to get some practice standing and running the bolt quick at short range matches maybe?
So is running the bolt on everyone’s rifle really rough, or clunky? I don’t know how to explain it the best but when running the bolt on mine between shots it’s really rough or hard to run the bolt, I’ve heard others complain about this with their B14R’s. I would be nice to be able to smooth this out a little and you could stay closer to on target between shots. Anyone have a fix?? PLEASE ITS VERY ANNOYING! My CZ 457 is buttery smooth! But otherwise I really like my BERGARA
My bolt on my b14r closes hard when loading a round in the chamber. Do you know a way to make it easier? Does the shim kit that you mentioned help with the hard bolt closing.
You can hone and polish the detente and ramp of the bolt to make it less notchy and stiff on closure. Just go easy, don't remove much metal and keep debris out of the workings.
Hi Darren just curious as to what your opinion of the trigger shims are and if they do indeed work. the other thing is what is the size of the roll pin you are taking out to disassemble the bolt?
This is going to be a terribly unhelpful answer! 😁 I have not used the shims, but know of some that have have with mixed results, but generally there is little accuracy to be gained. I don't know the roll pin diameter, but will try to remember to measure the next time I have the bolt apart. I use a 3/32" roll pin punch if that's helpful at all 😁
It's the more I watch videos on the Bergara 22-caliber bolt action rifle; it is a rifle to stay away from. If the owners have to go through all that to the gun to operate, it ain't worth buying. Enter Ruger's RAR 22-CALIBER bolt action rifle. My cost $400.00, and a cheap box of CCI-SV ammo and off the range. The rifle functioned perfectly extracted ejected, and fired no problems at all. The only thing that I did change out the trigger spring ,liter pull weight. Sighted in then see, how it would group, well @50yRds cheap ammo group size five shots .55". Good enough for me! The money saved, it will allow me to buy better optics Tract or Vortex.
Will this void the warranty? Because mine seems to have this problem and it happens way more often than I like. It happens the most on the last shot when the mag is empty. It is beginning to become super annoying.
So staking mine didnt seem to fix mine, i actually see now difference. I have noticed though that it only seems to happen when the mag is empty so the last shot basically and it will happen 1 in about every 3 magazines. It being the last shot i would not mind so much if every one of them were the same and dropped out when i remove the mag but sometimes the empty case will go behind the ejector and not drop out. I will have to remove the bolt and pick the case out with my pocket knife. Guess I'm going to have to contact bergara. :( Saddens me because i love the rifle other than that and it is very accurate.
I'm shooting CCI mini-mag .22lr in my Bergara B14R and when I get close to 100 shots the bolt won't even grip the spent cartridge to remove it from chamber. I thought it was because the match chamber heats up and expands plus all that excess wax on the cartridge stops the ejector from gripping the cartridge. When I start shooting everything is good until I get up around 80 shots and it gets really bad around 120 shots. Any idea whats wrong ? I'm new to shooting and just bought the rifle three weeks ago.
Hmmm, that's interesting. Does the problem go away if you let it cool? After cleaning? I'd suggest staying with standard velocity ammunition as it will generally give you the best accuracy
@@darrondb next day rifle is fine until again about 80-90 rounds then it starts. You are the second person that told me to get CCI Standard Velocity so I will try that. Problem is the CCI mini-mags were on sale and I bought 5k rounds. lol I'm down to 4k now so maybe I'll save those for my Roger 10/22 semi auto which has no problems with that ammo. Today Bergara told me NO Stingers as the B14R is a match barrel. Thanks
@@DLN-ix6vf My b14r shoots cci sv very accurate for a low cost ammo. It will shoot 1 moa consistently with it and the occasional flyer will put it over 1 moa. Mine does very well with eley target and most anything SK, oh and it likes norma tac 22 also.
@@DLN-ix6vf check the head space. mine was a little loose and caused problems extracting i tightened it up and worked the extractors some and she's GTG. it's not something the layman should do i'm a Gun Doc and it was no problem for me and required a lathe, have someone check your head spacing it should be .043" on the go and .046 on the no go. i set mine with a slight rub on an .043" head space gauge also check the 2. slots cut in the barrel breech face for the extractors if they arent cut deep enough the extractors won't grab the case rim to extract properly.
@@pwn3426 mine loves tac as well just bought 1k rounds for it. also try CCI green tag and CCI standard velocity and SK standard plus it shot amazing with that.
I’ve never had an issue with my B14r, until yesterday at a match. I had an empty case flip backwards an fall behind the mag. Will staking the ejector fix this?
I staked my ejector. I also decided play with the the trigger guard adjustment on my KRG Whiskey chassis. I was able to get all rounds to cycle with no issues. My B14r looks awesome.
Great Video, helped me a bunch. Going to stake ejector and try shimming today. You mentioned it being a loaner rifle. Our club is discussing purchasing loaners as well versus event coordinators volunteering their gear. Did your club have to carry any liability rider or have any other insurance hoops to jump through?
After 1100 rounds and smoothing out the bolt rotation, this rifle remains very difficult to activate the bolt. A little better with Lapua & SK, unbearable with Eley. Impossible to stay on target while activating bolt. This issue alone makes this riffle NOT fun to shoot. A real shame!!!! Worse yet is the fact that Bergara offers NO solution.
It's not an issue with all rifles. There was a run with sightly undersized ejectors. If you have issues, you can warranty it to have them replace or you can stake it.
People need to stop making videos like this..I staked a brand new gun and now the ejector is out of aliment and won't cleat the bolt..just leave the damn thing alone.
