I've done it. The rig's setup was more primitive however and used a wrench to bridge the batteries. Now with my diesel I find I can't start the engine with the deep cycle alone, so maybe super caps are in order.
I'm not a dedicated overland 4WDer, just the odd weekend at some beautiful National Parks campsites. The only electrical device on board is a 50 litre fridge. For emergencies I carry a portable battery jumper pack in the back. I give it a charge-up every few months. Touch wood, I've never actually needed to use it myself but over the past two years I have rescued three strangers whose batteries had succumbed to excessive usage. You feel like a real superhero when their engine fires up again! 💪😀
Well done Ronnie, This is by far the most comprehensive overview of a proper electric system for a touring rig, All the important considerations have been covered and well explained. I know Ronnies explanation is solid cuz I researched and installed all my electrics this spring similar to what you have done. Many folks will benefit...
The 12volt anderson plugs. I found getting extra. Fill with siko flex and then plug in when outlet is not been used. It keeps the dust out. You can use old ones. Thank for the video's Ronnie. There great tips. Russell
Redarc battery management system is simply out of reach for some of us, $3,186.81 is alot of money for your unit, it's good mind you will not deny that. Plus another $850.85 for your inverter that's a lot of money in total over 4k. I use redarc smart start isolator works well but it is not perfect either. On that note i do love the video's Ronny keep up the great work.
Yeah it's ridiculously expensive for a fitout like this. 4k for the BMS and inverter, plus another 1k for the lithium battery. Add on the redarc solar blanket (2k), $750 for the other blanket, $500 minimum for the two main batteries, plus the front BCDC charger ($600), not to mention fitting. Easily a 5 figure setup.
@@tbillington Yes it is expensive, i can understand why Ronny did it and i know he is always out and about so it pays to get a setup like this, For the not so serious person who only goes out on a weekend it's way too over the top and not affordable by most. However that said i would be going for medium range gear that would be good but not cheap and nasty either as you do get what you pay for.
A video in fridges would also be helpful for us who are just getting into setting up a vehicle for overlanding. Their are so many choices that it's hard to know which one to choose.
Oh man, there's basically about 5 to 7 shops all over the country in Germany who even know how to work properly on offroad/overland vehicles. I feel your pain.
Hey Ronny cheers from Portugal 🍺🍺 Great video again, you're no doubt the best overland channel on RU-vid!! Could you send a diagram on how you disable the main battery and use all the lights radio and comms from auxiliary? That switch is awesome, i really want to add that setup on my Discos 2 👌👌
Ronny love your extremely informative videos. Keep up the good work. You said you have to lift the bonnet up to plug in the solar panel. Why don't you just make a short lead, have it plugged in permanently into your D.C. to D.C. run it behind the grill and out onto the bullbar, screw it down. Problem solved.
Great info! Thanks Ron, been pushing electric off for a while since I dont exactly know what I need. The solid 200w folding solar is very interesting so are the roof rack mounted panels, that will be part of the solution for sure. Still quite complex to isolate and temp bypass / perm bypass, this needs time to think of everything so will likely rely on a professional as not to torch my rig down!
I do like the twin, flooded cell setup under the bonnet. GME antenna - a nice, tall one. The signal propagates from the centre - the larger the centre, the larger the propagation. Good antennas have plug-in points for varying di-pole reactant and dB. 5:20 the DC-DC charger does not put 25A 'in' at any/all stages - in the modes of float and battery test, for example - far less than 25A input. 8:20 a BMS/DC-DC charger without a desulphation mode is OK for Lithium - like a Projecta 25, 3-stage DC-DC charger. 09:00 why would you run AC back to DC? 5.1V/2A is available off separate 12V circuits for gadgets. Sure, an inverter is required for camera and drone batteries. Dual USB sockets will split 5.1V/2A between both sockets. Single 5.1V/2A sockets, on their dedicated 10A circuit, are the way to go. 09:40 an inverter left on may drain a low voltage battery - if there's nothing plugged into it. The no load current draw on a Projecta 1000, for example, is 0.8 Ah (19A/24 hrs) and will alarm at 10.5V, and shutdown at 10V - not ideal but nevertheless the drain is minuscule given the correct battery size. You can have too much or too little battery, but you can never have enough solar. 12:00 charging/maintaining a flooded cell from solar (starter); difficult to comment on this piece without knowing more about the system. An 80W panel would need to serve 20A to pin a flooded cell at 14.1V - which, it can't do. PWM or MPPT controller, doesn't matter as 80W won't deliver 20A at the battery.
One justification for the inverter would be current, your 130W Milwaukee charger will draw 10.8 amps at 12V but at 230V only 0.56 amps. Quite the difference in cable current carrying capacity so just one 10A rated 230V circuit to charge everything or its multiple 12V circuits and bigger cable. That’s how I look at it anyway. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks for doing what you do Ronny 👍 Everything you put out is greatly appreciated! Looking into purchasing a 150 prado myself, setting her up (I’m sure) will be heaps of fun.
I'm just only five minutes into the video and I'm already well informed. P.S I like how you didn't spruce up the Dashboard for the video. Keeping things REAL!
Cheers from Flagstaff where we have almost a foot of snow on the ground right now. It was a white xmas! Don't worry, it will be all melted by the time you're here in May (well, maybe not up on the Peaks). Hope 2020 is a good one for you and your family! -don-
Good job Ronny. I've been toying with the idea of a 24v system for a while but still don't know. It's a far more efficient system due to the I-squared x R factor but do i really want to run a laptop and charge batteries upto 24v out in the bush, i'm still at two mindsets on that one, but you are right, each time you plug another device in circuit it produces heat/noise/vibrations/ etc which effects efficiency and draws more current to do the same job that it would if you plugged it in directly on dc. Then again 36v and 48v systems are another option if someone needed to charge higher voltage batteries. I think in the trucking industry you'll probably find 24v appliances that are used in trucks which makes it a more attractive proposition, and laptops usually run on around 20v which would be very easy to drop/convert. Either way good job, keep up the good work.
I am done with dual batteries and killing them. I have one starter battery connected to the alternator. Second I have a completely separated lithium-ion Goalzero 3000x powering everything in the car: fridge, lamps, chargers, kitchen appliances. Charged by DC, 12v or solar depending in what is available. Much more flexible.
Glad you said the inverter story Ronny there are so many ways to charge devices off USB nowadays and most things use USB C or Micro USB unless your charging a laptop you dont need a inverter
I’m am interested in a complete parts list of everything you are using including wire lengths, gauges, fuses/breakers and their amp ratings. As well as the electronic controllers and so on. So I and others like me have a solid starting point to base our own research for our own builds.
Hi Ronny great video, You said comment down below for ideas, I have one here cheap vs expensive solar blankets/panels, And pros and cons for both, why spend $700 on a solar blanket when you can get one for $150
I really love your channel ronny, I love the informative videos, Im in the process of saving up and spending money on my cruiser and your channel will be most of my ideas! thanks so much
It would be a good idea for the life of your batteries and various other reasons to link the 2 crank batteries before turning all your lights on. When the voltages of two batteries are different and they're linked, one battery is charging the other one as fast as they can, even if one can't handle it as well as the other. For example you replace one battery with a brand new one and it's a higher capacity, the older/battery can get really hot and damaged etc.
Thanks, very interesting. I cannot wait for your video on the different batteries. I'm almost ready to start building my dual battery system and this series couldn't have come at a better time...
Upgrading your alternator to a higher output unit could alleviate a lot of your concern with the main battery draw. With modern alternator technology on a diesel motor, you should be able to run your whole system off of an alternator.
Yup. For the most part I go camping out of my sedan like most people and I don’t have any fancy equipment like Rohny and to be honest you don’t need it. As he said phones and laptops and a fridge can be run off the car and/or a simple inverter. I will disagree a bit because I’m in America and our laptops draw a bit more current for some reason so a 400w inverter would be the one to go for. Still, a basic one is like 30$ from Walmart if you need to check your emails or something while you’re camping like me. Go pro’s and small things, phones, tablets, power banks, and small things 1.0-2.0amps can be charged by the vehicle battery. If you are out skiing, diving, or something and you need the camera for example. On the note of colder temperatures. Batteries in general don’t like the cold, people with iPhones will understand and vehicle batteries are no different. If you are on a skiing trip and want to charge basic items, you will be using a bit more juice. That’s all for my 2 cents.
Hey ronny been running two starting batteries in parrarel for years. Its simple. I winch obviously from two batteries. Run my fridge on low overnight. Have simple manual 300tdi defender. Never had an issue. I have a simple cigarete skt voltmeter tells me voltage in the morning and whilst winching. Use basic lead acid batteries. If travelling alone park on slight hill to roll start just in case
Parking on a hill and roll starting works fine on mechanical and the simple EFI diesels (think 100 series). It does NOT work at all on common rail stuff- We tried to roll start a 79 series down a hill for over a kilometer and it just rolled to the bottom without starting. Unless you hit minimum voltage the computer wont wake up and open the injectors. Same goes for the PX and PX2 rangers (tried that) the 3.0D4D hilux (tried that on the same hill as the 70) and a CRD Hino truck!
Great video Ronny I like the folding allspark. I have to do that. The yellow/ red leds won’t attract any insects, not just bugs. Thanks again Watching your vids is a such an engrained Sunday morning ritual these days.
Interesting I often use a red led headlight but find it’s often not quite enough light. Fine if you’re just having a drink and sitting around or doing simple tasks but a bit sketchy if you want to do anything intricate.
Nice vid Ronny. I see the gnangara pines backdrop, you must live close! This truck is all finished now. Time to get a 2020 79 dual cab and start over. Chassis ext and portals!
I was thinking you might be able to take a plug bar/power strip and change the household plug to a cig lighter style plug and that would give you a fair amount of plugs for your gear and you could mount the strip where you need it. What a great vehicle you have there!
What's your concern? Solar loading or elements? Loading is a legit concern as it will cause it to run more, but he has plenty of juice. Elements, meh, they are pretty rugged units from what I've gathered about Engle. I've run my ARB (which really isn't as well built IMHO) for about eight years in back of my truck under a bed shell and here in the desert Southwest of the US dust gets everywhere (and HOT). Still runs fine. I think he looks at it as an acceptable tradeoff for overall weight reduction of his tray system. Lots of water, yeah depending on how Engle protects the electronics.
Quick question Ronny, If you have solar charging the starter batteries at camp,, does the big bcdc charger in the back think the alternator is running "thinking the car is running" and kick in to charge the rear lithium battery? PS. Keep up the good work!! 👍
The BCDC will only charge the second front and not the main (hence the comment about the Ctek charger) so no it doesn’t kick it in. I did think about that too until I thought about it a lot more
Totally agree on not needing an inverter for most, but you can get a cheapy one for limited use. We have a 300w (or 350?) for laptop charging and it just clips onto the battery. It stores away somewhere (at home) most of the time. Make sure to get a pure sine wave in error for sensitive electronics. A little more $ but not much
Yeah, I have a small 200w one I used for my 'hot logic' food warmers. I can toss brats, chile con ceso, leftovers or whatever in the hot logic and they are ready to eat a couple of hours later when we stop for lunch. I also carry a little portable power station (a jackaroo) so I can power up some of my stuff even if I am not by the truck.
@3:11 i like the idea of the dual crank battery setup. how can get this battery link and switching between main and aux battery setup, any wiring diagram ?
I'm a little bit electronics savy but these overlander battery systems give me a headache. The overview is nice, but .... what I really need to see is a wiring diagram to see how all this stuff is connected together. But I guess that's not possible in a RU-vid video. I would love to see a "how to" video to go with this "here is what I have" video. I don't know of, or trust, a local shop to install a battery system
Take a look at this guyourkaravan.com/vanbuild/ site. I just happened to think of it as I read your comment. Pretty sure he has a decent overview of what he setup. Don't overthink it, and just make sure all DC main wiring is sized correctly. You really can't go wrong by going bigger. Hope this helps.
I would like to know how you can get away with storing that fridge outside and mounted in the back of the tray. A few things come to mind. 1) Rain entering the compressor and electrical area. 2) Dust entering the compressor and electrical area. 3) The sun warming the fridge, causing the fridge to turn on more often and wasting power. 4) The weather prematurely aging the fridge. 5) Security - Surely it's easier steal the fridge or to at least have your cold beers and food knocked off in some car park while shopping or bush walking etc.
Hi Ronny, nice setup. When you do your video on Lithium batteries there are direct AGM replacements which can be run from the AGM charger profile and have in build BMS systems. Are these as good? There also seems to be 2 different types of Lithium, which is better? Why aren't there any lithium cranking batteries in vehicles if there so good? BMS systems are also confusing is it better to have external BMS?, what is your lithium setup? Can you also go over the danger of crushing lithium as it can self ignite if damaged. Keep up the great work. Enjoy your informative comment. I see in the battery industry lithium maybe a thing of the past in 5 years with sodium ion being new way.
I have had multiple CTEK chargers and the mode-changing push button has always expired shortly after the warranty. They are just a tac switch but I assume a rubbish version. After replacement I have never had the problem recur.
@@johnshaw5978 Mine is solely for charging my motorbike. I pressed those buttons a few times during initial setup but haven't touched them for years. The key to longevity, apparently, is don't press the buttons I guess 😀👍 4.5 years later it still seems to do fine for me, better luck with yours!
Nice video, Ronny. Being poor bastards, we can't afford Redarc, so I wait for the specials of other brands, where possible, and plan electrical works as best we can. It's always good to see how others are doing their electrics, even if it's a very specialised set up, reflecting the wants and needs of their owners, and no two are the same...
Yeah , if not buying Redarc , what does the budget guy do....am looking for options for a planned build.....3k plus electric system is a big ask..........
Ronny, if your under bonnet resting status of the 2 Lead batteries (start + aux) are not connected. Why do you have an additional switch on your dash to 'separate' them??? Is this a simple NC switch that the 'temp override' and 'PDM' switch wire runs through? Thus breaking the switch system as a double insurance policy to not connecting the 2 batteries? Just trying to justify the set-up An answer would be appreciated Keep up the good work 👌😎
thank you for detail video as all great watching all time do know 24v system in the big truck which put duel batteries system work of all 12v gears? that know ISUZU 4x4 crew cab truck 4x4 are all 24v system
Hey Ronny great videos. Can you do a video on how you can run a 12v fridge on weekend trips without a dual battery, and some alternatives or gear like solar panels and lithium jump starts to make it possible on just the crank battery? I think this would be relatable to a lot of people out there who only go out every now and again. Cheers
In your situation i would get a portable battery box/pack. you can get them with or without chargers & 12v/usb ports. I know the kickass brand do them as well as many others. Then you can throw it in the car fir your trip, and pull it out and leave it on charge at home
Great video. Why not just have 1 cranking battery and 1 lithium and then run all your lights and accessories off the lithium and have a switch to link the two together when winching and using the lights? Then a then a switch to jump start off the lithium if need be? Or even apply the same concept but run 2 lithiums? Or am I missing sonething here...
hi ronny. great video looking forward to seeing more. could you do a video on your combi fridge please. inside and outside. keep up the good work. many thanks forrest.
Thanks Ronny, great video. I feel your pain regarding the need to invert the DC battery to AC, only to transform it back to DC to charge everything!!! I would love to find a definitive table of wire gauges for specific lengths and amps. Is this something you could upload to your website?
Is that a new camera you got? I really like the short depth of field shots you're getting! (the ones with the fuzzy background) It looks really professional, nice work!
@@Ronny_Dahl - The DOF was good as was the color grading. I'd be interested in a video on how you guys shoot your content and how it has evolved from the beginning. I used to subscribe to your photog channel, which I think has morphed into RD2. Might be something you could feature on there now. Peace from Flagstaff where we've got about a foot of snow on the ground.
