Modern techniques for livestock fencing tip 1: the art of fencing tip 2: blasting a post hole --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- best fencing tips installation footing fence learn wire agriculture "stock proof"
It is one of the harder works , today there are a lot of new machines so fieldwork become easyer ,keepon being a hard work anyway when you have to dig among rocks. Good job.
I am the person in front of the camera. The wire we use is high tensile and has a breaking strain of 700kg. When you twist it across the grain it will snap off much like the branch of a tree.
Gosh, You’re great at this! I’m so frustrated and when I look at this, you make me feel terrible! It reminds me of how I suture up a wound! You know knots so well, and just rip them off like I do! But I just cannot work the high tensile wire like you do! It breaks for me, when I don’t want it to! You seem to be able to command it like a total pro! Which you certainly ARE! I sure wish I could find someone like you to help me! I like to do things on my hobby farm, myself! I cannot find anyone to help that knows what to do! Maybe I should move to Australia! I’m so frustrated and need help!
great videos nice to see a skilled fencer at work and one that takes pride in there work is that a tex brown knot your using to join the wires ? would it work on 3.15mm high tensile line wires ?
Cheers mate. This was one of the more challenging lines I've done and I've been doing it twenty years. Ironically it is on my own farm. If it was for someone else I might have had second thoughts. Do you want to come and help me batten it? Only seven hundred metres to go.
After seeing your vid I used the 'Taihape knot' all last week helping a mate maintain some fencing, I'm new to fencing but I picked it up pretty quickly. My mate's been farming for over twenty years and now uses the 'Taihape knot' too. Thank you for sharing it was a great help.
I love the blasting idea, I think I want to find out what it takes to get licensed. I have a post driver with a pilot driver, but when you do get through rock the posts that are larger then the pilot hole still break. What are you using to make the hole for blasting? What are you using for blasting? Here in the US federal law doesn't require a license for binaries as long as you use them where you mix them, allows farmers to use ammonium nitrate for stumps. State law can be more restrictive.
Try a rock spike. If that doesn't work you've got some seriously hard rock and you'll need some serious gear to drill a big enough hole to put in a charge. Let me know how you get on.
@Wroger Wroger if you learn to how to work so the wire arc length will never reach your face you don't need glasses. I use ballistic goggles just because you make mistakes when tired. It's not a hugely reckless thing to not wear anything if you know exactly what a fence can do
This particular fence was built with 2.5mm high tensile wire which is commonplace in NZ though 3.15mm HT is becoming popular. Before this all the fences were built with 4mm (No8) mild steel wire which is good stuff but it needs to be pre stretched and it does lose its tension over time whereas the HT wire holds its tension for ever providing the fence is built properly. The posts are 600-700mm in the ground and the strainers are 1500mm in the ground.
Lovin al those Hayes pullers, don't know what they cost there but on the other side of the world, Canada, they cost $200 each, at a time where gas us about $1.50 per later and a pack a smokes is about $13.00, just for comparison, in my opinion they are the best pullers out there but a little pricey in my part of the world
You are right. The Hayes strainers are good but it depends which batch you get. I bought a set of ten one time and the steel wasn't that good and the wire son cut into them and they started slipping. The manufacturer replaced the lot and I have since worn those out. Strainrite are another good brand also made here in NZ. If you do buy some be sure to cut the springs out and throw them. They are much easier to use without.
Is a good video with close ups and clarity. Fencing is a difficult task installing as well as removal and making it easier is in every ones best interest.
I don't use any tools to cut the wire. I have a technique for breaking the wire that leaves absolutely no sharp edges much the same as a farrier twisting off horse shoe nails with his hammer. Watch the video closely and you will see how this is done. Good luck
Nine wire fences are common here in New Zealand. They need to be sheep proof and are so that cattle can't get their heads through. They work very well and the country is covered in them. Adding a hot wire or two makes them bulletproof.
@@Otokastation1 I run cattle only (about 300 mother cows), i've recently switched to hi tensile wire and i love it. How high is your top wire? What is the spacing layout on a 7 wire fence? So far, my cows respect a 5 wire smooth hi tensile just fine. That is in low pressure areas.
He had them all pulled up at same time which is by far the best way as you can correctly adjust each line. Once under tension what order you tie off is up to you.
Great work guys, wonder if you have tried this product for easy fast and reliable footing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l9U4N2x1jY8.html
@cyberprop Plain wire and batten fence better suits the undulating land that we have in most of rural New Zealand. It is far easier to deal with in challenging conditions and is a lot cheaper per length. On the right terrain netting is ideal and quick and easy to erect but can be a nightmare to tighten when you have to go over hills and through hollows. We don't use a lot of barbed wire in this country anymore. We prefer to use either more wires or use electric wires.
The wire strainers are called Hayes and are made in New Zealand only I believe. Readly available in Australia and plenty of info on the net for those interested. You are not getting mine.
1500mm deep? that's one solid strainer. Got to agree with your comment on Strainrite monkeys, always use them myself, never let me down. One thing I've stopped doing is nailing staples dead onto wire due to galvanised coating damage, too many weak points being created.
Never seen a full bull wire fence before. Here in Northern Ireland it's sheep wire with 1 strain of barb below and 2 or 3 strains above then the ole boys with only cattle and does their own fencing works with only barb wire but this is rare now. Only time bull wire is used as a support wire twisted between the strainer and it's support post or as a bottom strain under the sheep wire. Love this kind of work
Yes, uphill, downhill and round corners is a real problem with netting. We solved that problem with the Fence Wire Tensioning Tool. Really worth a look - see our video on RU-vid and visit the dedicated website.
what are the advantages of the plain wire over using say sheep netting and barb or plain wire? we mainly do 8/80/15 and 2 barbed wire strands. id love to be able to blast holes like that :)
Sell the dog. I have just been through this with my brother and he opted for a wood fence for his dog rather than wire as it worked out cheaper. I'm not suggesting this is always the case you will have to do the homework. I would go for wire mesh as bored dogs love chewing wood. Nothing money can't fix.
Cost of this fence is between $15-$20 per metre NZD. I use spades, post hole borers and post drivers to put posts in the ground. I build my own spades as I havn't yet seen a decent build commercial spade.
Hola estoy trabajando en cercos para mi terreno y los tensores que usas no los encuentro en Chile, me puedes decir que nombre le dan en tu país y si conoces una tienda online de confianza que los tenga para ver si puedo comprarlos, gracias
Great video. I am looking to build a sheep fence. I would like to see more detail on how you build a 90 degree corner. Are you still using the floating brace method or H brace?
Do what suits your situation the best. I prefer the diagonal stay method because it is quick and reliable providing it is installed correctly. Be sure that there is a foot on the bottom of the strainer especially if it has been dug in. Good luck.
Corner braces - I just use 2 diagonal struts with a rock or post in the ground to brace struts. Just make sure to line up your struts in the correct direction and retreat all cut ends of the timber (notches and tenons) with some good preservative to make them last longer
I realy liked the video but I didn,t here the two company names who make those chain strainers. I don't think they are available in the USA. How can I get some?
+Rainbow Works The chain wire strainers are made by either Hayes or Strainrite. Both are New Zealand companies and have websites. I have worked with wire strainers from all over the world and these two companies make the best ones by far. Nothing else comes close.
I called the knot a "Taihape Knot" simply because that's where I was shown it. We tested this knots strength and it is 70% the strength of the wire which is the same as a figure 8. This compares to 20%, that of the Tex Brown and double loop knots. Training is needed to learn the correct tying technique. If its not done properly it can fail completely. Hope you can see enough from the video to work it out. Good luck.
great workmanship there , love the figure 8 knot ,and the attention put in to the straining post. Tools are razor sharp.have a look at the shavings coming from the saw :D
You will need to get an approved handlers certification before you can purchase explosives. Not sure what the rules are in Australia but I'm sure it's possible. You then need to be able to drill the rock. I have pneumatic gear so not a problem. You only need to use a 1/4 to a 1/3 of a stick to crack the rock, any more and you'll end up with a bigger hole than you need.
is that cheaper than barbed wire? that's not how we build fence, but looks like you know your stuff. is that hot wire? dont see any insulators. will that hold cattle?
Don Armstrong yup i see that and the angle beam will pry it up and out as it straightens I’ve been doing it for as long as I can remember and we have tried all of the braces out there and anything with an angle beam support will pry the post out over a few years. If you want a good brace use 3 ten foot long six inch yellow jacket drive it in five feet with two six inch yellow jackets welded a foot from the top and it won’t move when you pull two miles of fence on it
Great video, awesome tips. I thoroughly enjoy watching a master work. I am fixing to build a fence for goats and was looking at the woven wire fencing with predator control. I really like the look of this fence and this high tensile smooth wire stuff is new to me. How effective would this fence be at containing goats, and keeping out predators? I have relatively flat ground much flatter than what your dealing with. To contain goats what would be a good post spacing and the spacing of battens between post. Again thanks for posting such a great video.
Jesse Lynch This fence is designed for sheep and cattle in hill country. If you want to contain goats and predators you will need a higher fence with electric outriggers. Goats will challenge any fence. Be careful using netting as they can get their horns stuck in them. Get used to the idea of using electric. It makes animals respect any fence. My suggestion, 1550mm high with two electric outriggers then you've got them.
Goats are difficult to contain behind fences. I would suggest a 1.8m netting fence with a hot outrigger. Make sure the netting is right on the ground so the goats can't crawl underneath. Good luck.
