I do not know why you take the time and go through all the trouble to make such great, informative videos, but I really appreciate that you do. I’ll bet there a lot of us out here who have learned a lot from your channel. The only downside to watching your instructions is that I have never met a tool I didn’t want. AND, you have so many cool tools.
The more I watched your video, the more I learned that, the details needed to build a high quality AR is more than what average people would know. Thank you so much for sharing and educating us that, in an honest world, one old saying stands true: "you get what you pay for."
Good vid with great info like always but..... Don’t buy the Geissele jig, they’ve doubled the price of the receiver extension jig from $100 to $200. Botach sells the same thing for $59.95 under their Kley Zion brand. Which is more inline with what something like this should cost. I use their reaction rods and they are gtg.
@@netchemica Agreed between G upping their prices and Magpul putting MAP pricing in place for all their vendors, they both are trying almost as hard to screw their customer as cheaper than dirt does.
@@Latinos4Trump Minimum advertised pricing It means a retailer was able to sell a companies product for what ever amount they felt was a comfortable profit margin, but with MAP the company tells the retailer that they cannot sell their products for less than a certain dollar amount. Ive seen alot of in store coupons posted with magpul and G, buy this get a $20 or $40 coupon emailed to your inbox. So the retailers have found work arounds to still sell the products below MAP but on paper theyre selling the products at MAP
not sure if you have used to Geissele receiver extension jig, it has it’s pluses and minuses, but one thing it isn’t is cheaply made. It’s a buy once, cry once tool. I really like mine and how precise it is.
I lay my lower upside down on a table with the buffer tube hanging off the table and stick a small torpedo level on the flat underside of the buffef tube. The bubble on a good level never lies
Awesome video sir. I'm very focused on attention to detail when it comes to my firearms. As far as clocking a stock.....OMG that's one of my biggest issues. It has to be right. Thank you for sharing your method. Detail is everything. I'm going to be purchasing these items to have my AR stocks perfect.
When I built my franken AR, only tools I had were a vise, tapco wrench, some allen keys, cheap mag well vise block, Horrible Fright torque wrench, and an upper clam shell block that didn't actually fit my upper. I don't think I even dimpled my barrel for the gas block. I bet Chad may have had some issues with my build, but after about 1000 rds, no problems at all! I did not stake my castle nut, and I'm OK with the clocking being off.
You do not need any bracket or anything. You should just make VICE that will hold tube a floating one. Lower receiver will center it self on lock-hold, than you can tighten floatin vice on tube. Everything will be in-line
Chad any plans of doing a more in depth/how to video of feed ramp polishing?....ive searched the forums n RU-vid world since your last video on the subject and all I'm finding is amateurville. Either way thanks for all the wealth of knowledge.
I may not do an in depth video on that. I spend a lot of time teaching my methods in person and I don't think it will translate well and safely in a video.
Cant believe there isn’t a jig for this exept for that polymer one you mentioned. The reaction block is worth more than the actual stripped lowers themselves, kinda odd how highly it’s been priced.
I 3D printed a mag block and reaction block. I use the same setup with vises also. I thought it was a little overkill in the beginning, but at least there’s someone else out there who thinks the same way.
Seriously RU-vid? I had to click through a warning before the video "This video may contain content that's inappropriate for some viewers, do you wish to continue?" The only people this content might be inappropriate for are people that buy Andersen lowers by the dozen while complaining that anything quality is too expensive...
Me: yOu GuYs UsE tOolS?! Literally I hold it in my knees and eyeball it. 🤭 You'd LOVE my technique for pinning the gas tube, putting the block on and aligning it.
i agree its spendy if you arent building a ton of rifles if you put the lower upside down on a perfectly level table with the buffer tube hanging off the table you can put a small torpedo level on the flat side of the buffer tube and it'll show you where you are in relation to being level. You cant have the fire control unit installed yet though otherwise you cant sit it flat
Personally I like the “Incredible Hulk” but I prolly have tried and have 4-5 different tools, they all work, it’s down to personal choice and preference. If it works for you don’t try and fix it.
They still have enough room to ever so slightly clock off center. It's cosmetic really, but with the buffer tubes with wings to both sides of the detent, if it's tensioned against the detent stud it can wedge it in place. Because of this, they are even more important to get straight (ish) when installed.
SUUUPER disappointed in Geissele for charging double on the buffer tube fixture. 200 dollars for a jig thats only good on milspec tubes? Ill use the KZ instead, 60 dollars and it works on both commercial and milspec tubes. I have both and so far haven't seen what makes the geissele worth so much more.
Thanks for the link, ive had KZ items for a while and they have been fine. PO’d that Geissele would double something that shouldnt cost 200. And ive been looking for the AR10 bar, thankfully Geissele isnt making it and i wont have to pay through the nose!!! Cudos!
@@parisex4 No problem. If you were to ask me for a recommendation a year ago I would have said Geissele without hesitation. Its a super solid block and at the time it was only $40 more than the KZ. Not to mention I was a pretty big Geissele fan boy at the time. But as I got more experience as a gunsmith and 2020 came around I completely changed my mind. As a gunsmith you have no control over what comes in to your shop so having the flexibility to work on commercial and milspec tubes is a necessity. Also once Geissele started charging double for a fixture that I only use to torque castle nuts it put a super horrible taste in my mouth. At this point the only thing I could possibly recommend from them is their rails and triggers. If they decide to price gouge those things too, I might have to stop using them completely. Also if you are looking for an AR10 bar (I assume you mean a reaction rod) look into the Midwest Industries copy. It's much better than the Geissele.
I have a slight disagreement with you regarding the use of your ‘spacers’. If you only use a spacer on 1 side of the Geissele block, wouldn’t that mean your entire set-up would be slightly off center? For it to work perfectly, it would seem that you would require 2 equally sized spacers, 1 on each side of the Geissele block to be truly ‘centered’.
[(Mag well block thickness)-(buffer block thickness)] / 2 =3/16". My only suggestion would be to use 3/16" angle iron so it sits on top of the vise jaw rather than having to hold it while you tighten it. Really nice looking setup though.
Maybe I didn’t phrase my original comment properly. I feel that- The true center ‘bore axis’ of the receiver extension and the receiver will be slightly canted (off center) unless the Geissele block was shimmed on BOTH sides by TWO equally sized spacers. If only ONE spacer is used, the ‘center median line’ will be canted a degree or three away from the side that had the spacer on it. I just did a demo in my shop and, unless I’m missing something here, my demo showed that the true center will be off by a bit unless two equally sized spacers are used, one spacer on each side of the Geissele block, to equal the width of the receiver magazine block I’m open to suggestions on why I may be missing something.
@@kennethkrieb3018 the moving part of the jaw is not what is important for alignment. The fixed part of the vise jaws are. If you prefer to use two spacers, be my guest. It's not needed for alignment in this particular case. If it was necessary, I would be using it. I don't half ass anything.
What size vices did you use? How many inches apart are they from each other? Do you use two 3/16" spacers; one on each side of the Geissele reaction block? Thanks in advance, Hank
Have a complete a2 pistol, can I put on a 16" barrel mid length gas tube, and keep pistol brace? Or does it need mid length buffer spring weight?(low on cash right now) Thanks, subbed
Wouldn’t you need to divide that 3/16 (3/32) plate thickness by two and place one on both sides to keep them in alignment before tightening the castle nut? It will be off to one side if you don’t.
This is kinda on topic, i have a 10.5 PSA ar I built a rifle lower for a 16” upper i plan on buying this month. I took the lower to the range to test it, it didnt feed rounds, it will fire and eject but wont load a round from the mag. Its gotta be something with the buffer because my 10.5 works great. HELP
@Eric M thx man buffer spring and buffer on my 10.5 is the one that came with it from PSA it works fine. When i put that upper on the lower i built it wont load a round after i fire, i can re rack another round and fire, it will eject but not pick up a round from mag
@Eric M the lower i built is a rifle lower kit, maybe the spring is too strong for a 10.5 barrel?? Gas pressure and all that stuff i dont know shit about.
@@garyh.7282 Indeed. @Steve E, he's only adding a half-difference thickness to the fixed-jaw side to make them co-planar. The adjustable-jaw sides don't need to be co-planar (but they are parallel). It's a nice method if you're super-OCD. Another (if you're just OCD) is to torque, loosen, and then re-torque five times until the magazine, grip, and stock injection mold seams all line up. Then stake (twice).
