I put a piece of leather into the groove where the nock end of the arrow sits to prevent rolling. My shafts turn perfectly without any wobble. I also glued another piece of the same leather onto the arrow rest near the saw, so both ends are on the same height again. My tip is to just remove the nock so the end of the shaft sits flush. No need for a field tip or anything in my opinion. Great content as always! Keep up the good work!
Doing it yourself you get exactly what you want. All my arrows are 429 grains and set up so my numbered G5 carbons screw in to match the number on the fletch so the blades and vanes are aligned.. Exactly the same, weigh the insert and file extra weight or match it to a lighter point. If you use lighted nocks, add a piece of 14 gauge copper inside your standard nock to match the lighted weight and length so you don't wear it out in practice. You can get every arrow exactly the same if you start with good shafts.
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I think you should make people aware and also conscious of the dangers of dust as a result of cutting carbon arrows. Can be extremely dangerous and really it’s a video like this that should have a quick reference
Going to have to buy the Decut and replace my Weston saw. I love how the measuring part slides !! and tightens with micro adjust. When I tighten my Weston saw with the wing nut it tilts up down back and fourth etc I get it pretty accurate but it's a pain LOL.
Because it is too simple and not complex enough for RU-vid viewers. I use a miter saw with a aluminum/carbon blade. it cuts fast with no splinters and cuts square. I cant belive how complicated people make this.
If you order arrows from Lancaster you can order individual arrows instead of having to buy a dozen and they cut them for .25 cents. I can’t imagine I’ll need enough arrows cut to justify not paying an extra .25 cents
Interesting video. I had to search some to find this or similar (maybe newer versions) of this saw. Two things, I might comment. Positive: The adjustment near the saw, also holds the shaft perpendicular to the saw. In the nock end however, I think they should have put something, so that it would be like you nock the arrow on a piece of "string". So that you won't have to have the hassle of un-nocking the shafts (if they come with pre-installed nocks).
If it hasnt been said, you cut/rotate against the rotation of the disk to prevent climbing or chatter.. Rotating with cutter, the shaft with want to go with it and bounce or fly off... Search climb cut accidents...
You cut the arrow with a nock in the end right before you gave the tip of removing the nock and placing a field point in its place lol. Good video, looking to buy an arrow saw myself.
Maybe if you make a custom nock that fits tightly in the nock end and you can do that by simply putting some tape on one of the nocks your going to be using, I did it with my saw and it works great. As for the pedal mine didn't come with one, I used an old sewing machine pedal works great now I dont even use it but try the tape idea if you like.
Thanks for the review was considering this buying this arrow saw this made that decision a lot easier. I realize this is an older video might be a bit late but I am willing to bet that micro adjust on the end for the length is so you can calibrate the saw to ensure that the length scale is accurate. I would back the micro adjust off a bunch set it to say one inch longer then you want your final arrow say 29in cut an arrow it should come out slightly longer then 29 micro adjust until the arrow you cut is exactly 29 lock it down the micro adjust scale on the saw should now be accurate.
Yupp. I need one lol i bought the Weston 8k rmp saw after looking all over. Not sure how new this is but i didnt come across it anywhere. The weston was good nut for 50 bucks or so more this seems miles ahead with tons of thoughtful features. And the micro adjust on both ends will help a ton to make for much less squaring after cuts. The weston also came stock with a big wobble and bend and couldn’t figure out the problem until my second set of arrows when i slowly spun the blade, it made for about an hour of squaring per dozen on both ends. Instead of maybe 15/20 mins worth. Good video! Awesome to be able to build and cut your own arrows and one less thing i need a shop for because theres not many good ones around here and a lot of times i bring stuff there and it doesnt get done correctly anyway up to par with my standards which arent too crazy lol
I cut thousands of arrows a year at my shop and I was wanting to get a new arrow saw for my new location and after dealing with all the dust I was wanting one with a dust collector so with that said I was wanting to know how bad is dust from this saw ? For the average guy I'm sure its fine but for a store what are your thoughts ?
