If you have any questions, please use the BikeGremlin forum (I try to respond to every comment, but RU-vid sucks at notifications, especially when it comes to any follow-up questions): www.bikegremlin.net/ Relja
another great video! i like the fact, that you don't even comment the combination locks, that can be found for cheap and are appealing to the uninformed part of the bikers. combination locks are sadly picked more than easily nowadays (even by kids) and should not be considered an option. living in a neighboring country for some decades, we all know, that everything, that's not bolted to the ground will be eventually stolen, so a bit of common sense beats a tough lock everyday. keep up the good work and stay safe!
2:51 Such an important thing to say! If the object your locking your bike up is not stronger than your lock, there isnt much security your adding. This is especially true for the litelok x1 / x3, hiplok d1000 and the altor saf. Everything will be cut way easier than these locks! I know you are a real one because your one of the fewer people telling the truth about folding locks. Yes they are practical and all but not near as secure as a good u-lock or a heavy chain.
Hi Relja! Are you sure that putting a D or U Lock on the rear wheel but inside the rear frame triangle is as secure as you say? Most bicycles come with quick release front and rear wheels - so maybe the quick release wheel makes that option not nearly as secure? cheers JB
Try removing the wheel with a lock put like that and see. Of course, in case it wasn't clearly noted in the video - the lock needs to be tied to something solid, and the rim (not just the rim and left to dangle). Photo at the end of chapter 2 in this article shows the locking technique: bike.bikegremlin.com/434/how-to-lock-a-bicycle/
@@BikeGremlinUS Yeah, I tried it out the other day, you are right. Thanks Super important as you said to make sure the D-Lock is inside the rear triangle though - I worry that one day I could mess up there. 😕
Still no mention on the frame lock in combination with the plug in chain :)) But what you presented was ok. I like that you showed the ''Sheldon Brown'' locking method but I wish you mentioned his name for making it popular.
I plan on making separate videos on bicycle parkings and secure bicycle "locking techniques" - there I'll discuss it in more details and make sure to mention Sheldon Brown. Here it came as an after-thought, while I was at it (no script for the video).
I think the most important two things to tell anyone buying a lock are: - don´t get any lock that has the "circular" style key - because it has been shown they can be opened by nearly anyone just using the cap of a pen ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o-LWGJzglho.html | ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0hsM88Wx8QQ.html - preferably don´t get a cable lock cheers JB
Professional thieves come with a van to throw the stolen bike into, 36" or even 42" bolt cutters (the length refers to the length of the handles, and 42" is the biggest commercially available), a sledge hammer and battery operated angle grinders. With all locks you have a compromise between quality of security and portability. U-lock shackles should have a minimum diameter of 14mm, anything less is easily cut with larger bolt cutters, the largest U-lock now have shackle diameter of 16mm or larger (20mm is the largest I now of). All U-locks can be cut with an angle grinder, some of the best models do not even last 2 minutes against a grinder attack. Chain locks which provide good security are not portable. Chain links needed to be welded and minimum diameter of 16mm. But a chain is only as good as the padlock they use. I use a U-lock and have just upgraded. Best 2 U-locks which are still portable (just) are the Hiplock D1000 and Litelok X1 - neither can be cut with bolt cutters and have pretty reasonable resistance to angle grinders (ie thief would need several grinding discs and a spare battery or 2 to successfully cut through)
Hi Justin, I tried to explain that in the video - no system is unbeatable. However, as a local joke says: one needn't be faster than a lion, just faster than the next guy. There is a lot of theft in my city, including bike theft. The cheap Abus U-lock shown in this video makes a bike a lot more secure compared to a vast majority of other bikes, so thieves are highly likely to pick an easier prey. Chain lock shown in the video kept my expensive (and expensive looking) road bike safe for years, including a lot of overnight locking (for night shifts). I usually just kept it locked at the place of work, and carried the folding lock (as shown in the video) for locking the fancy road bike at other locations (shorter, day-time stops). Another benefit of using a chain is it is a lot more dangerous to cut with an angle grinder (in the street at least, with no vice to hold a link securely in place). As you said, to resist long, high-quality bolt cutters, it has to be with links too thick for carrying around on a bike (though I'd argue that 12 mm of high-quality steel resists most bolt cutters I've seen used by thieves, even the 10mm model I have is what they apparently avoid). Everything has its pros and cons, but the main point of the video is to get at least one good-quality lock. That's something I see most cyclists fail to do. Either because they want a lock that is light, or because they don't want to spend money on that. Litelok X1 seems like a high-quality choice by itself. Combined with the Hiplok D1000, I would expect it to make 99.999% of the thieves look elsewhere, before even trying to "work" on the bike. Unlike a vast majority of U-locks, these models look (haven't tested either of them) like they are very difficult to cut with an angle grinder (though it's fair to note that Abus GRANIT XPlus™ 540 U-Lock also takes a lot of time, effort, noise, sparks, and two full cuts to open with an angle grinder - that's an option I'm familiar with).
