@@myinbox8125 My stock engine lasted a while before getting unlucky with a timing belt snap due to not being run and possibly rot. But put in a jdm ej20x and has been great 300whp on mustang dyno, very reliable so far, no oil has been burnt
@themomofmemes467 dude I swear I thought I was gonna get scammed or something the whole time! Bought it from a guy in Milwaukee. It's a retired police car with no backseats, 150k miles, and 0 accidents. Drove it all the way back to Memphis TN no problem. Feels like I robbed the guy tbh.
lets not forget to mention the Saab 9-3 aero's and turbo-x, boasting a turbocharged v6 cranking power to all four corners. An underrated swedish car born from jets that is quick and quirky.
Not to forget that the TT first 2 gens also supported the VW VR6 engine as well as the early designs of the DSG. Monsters if you find a maintained one and not a beat up one from a hairdresser
Legacy GTs dont have head gasket issues, this notion that every subaru is going to blow a head gasket is a lie. IIRC 2005 models have a cat in the Uppipe to the turbo so try to replace that asap and the banjo bolt to the turbo oil feed sometimes clogs up so its good to replace that. these cars are used and abused by people who cant afford a wrx so dont expect it to be a problem free car. make sure you know what mods are done to it and for the love of god get a tune.
I know some people will disagree with me but a really fun AWD car is the 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Sport. They look really good imo and they came with like 260 hp so they were pretty peppy for a 3.5l v6 and you can pick them up for around and under 5k and they look so good lowered
A forgotten awd budget car is the nissan Juke. It may be goofy looking, but it's pretty quick, and it handles in the snow really well. I wish there were more mods for them.
As a former legacy gt owner BE CAREFUL! I bought a one owner 2006 gt sedan from an older man who had daily driven it to work and back. Thing had MINT carfax, perfect maintenance log, one owner, perfect car! Headgaskets blew pretty much instantly and then it ate a turbo, after that debacle it got low compression on the passenger cylinder bank. Only had it for 10k miles before the whole engine was just beyond repair and I babied that car like none other. Be warned it can be an absolute time bomb.
@@goobergoober2263 it never saw above 5k rpm, changed oil 3 times, at 3k intervals in those 10k miles. I was a lot more into the low RPM subie rumble exhaust and BPV woosh during shifts than I was into the "speed" of it... I should note that it had a catback exhaust and cold air intake that I installed, plus I followed everyone's advice and got it properly tuned at a reputable subie tuning shop to account for the changes. Kept stock HP and boost on a very conservative tune. Only put down around 220hp to the wheels, which is close to factory. It was a fun car but far from fast in a straight line, flooring it was never my thing. I knew when I got it that EJ255 engines are temperamental and notoriously awful at taking abuse, so I tried my very best to treat it nice since I wanted it to last a long time. Oh well, I am sure they are great cars, I just got a lemon. I don't have any ill will towards subarus and I would gladly own another when I have the time and money to work on it as a project car.
@@PriceeeLIVE“kept stock HP“ and „only made 220hp“ So…which one is it then? The headgaskets usually do not blow on stock ones, only when it‘s been messed with. Turbos from that gen should be better than the older ones, the TD04 on my 24 year old STi Forester that puts down original 178 kW still runs perfectly fine. Low comp on passenger bank usually means cylinder 3 (or whatever the number of the one closest to the turbo is). Sadly that comes from the turbo being that close and hammering that part of the engine with heat. Add a messed with tune and there go your ringlands. There is also the issue of going high gear and high boost. You need to be in the right gear for a given situation. Can’t really ask the car to accelerate while going 40-50mph in 5th or 6th even.
@@Phrew so they came from factory with about 210-220hp to the wheels, the window sticker says 250hp to the crank. So keeping it right around 220hp to the wheels would be considered just about stock hp... Got it dyno tuned to compensate for an aftermarket intake and exhaust. NOT TO MAKE MORE POWER! I know you need tunes for an intake and exhaust on these engines, they don't take kindly to mods without a tune to compensate. It wasn't a garbage pop tune either, I am well aware those straight murder these engines FAST. It was a basic close to stock tune just compensating for those 2 mods... from a reputable subaru specific dyno shop. The car was an automatic so I didn't bog the engine in the wrong gears... I got a lemon of a car. Like I said previously, I am sure they can be good cars if you have the time and money to put into it as a project car. They CAN be finicky and unreliable. I do not think any 2000s turbo subie owner is gonna deny that statement. I bought it as a daily to get to work and go grocery shopping.
My 2000 passat was the same layout and it wasn't expesive. The 1.8t is a very reliable engine. You just have to get a leak in a spot you don't mind and nothing else will ever leak. I was regularly thrashing mine and turning up the boost.
As someone who currently owns a 2005 Legacy GT wagon, I can say that they have their issues. Being anywhere from 15-20 years old, a lot of them can be ticking time bombs no matter how well you treat them. A lot of the chassis specific parts, especially interior, are no longer in production. However, it shares a lot of parts with other models and years(a lot from the 2008-2014 WRX). If you love the chassis and are willing to put money into fixing Subaru’s and previous owner’s mistakes, they can be amazing cars, especially to learn about working on cars. However, that all takes a decent amount of time and money.
I have a 2001 bmw 330xi with a manual that I got for under $6000 and it runs and handles amazing. Only downside is the front subframe is different from the non awd and m3 so suspension options are limited. Of course it leaks a bit of oil but at least you know there is still some in there!
Picked up my saab 9-7x 5.3i for 8k, cammed,exhaust, upgraded pumps and s/c kit it makes 500awhp but could easily push 700awhp i just like it conservative in my daily but all that for about 15k including the car aint bad at all
I got my 06’ Volvo S60R in mid October of last year for 5500$ and second set of original Pegasus R wheels. You can find budget friendly cars anywhere you just gotta be patient and actually look. I got extremely lucky as mine had all the major maintenance items done and it only has 112k miles on it.
i got extremely unlucky on a awd s60 T5, 140k miles, owner did all up to date services w/documents yet engine still blew up in 2 days rip. really wanted an s60 too
Im a legacy man, but id go for the 3.0R its rarer sounds better with little issues when it comes to overall reliability, just be fine with no manual it can handle some boost and sounds like a 911
Gels what’s up bro glad to see you still have a Rex-8 you are part of something that’s worse than head gaskets 💀 love your car and Info on rotary’s my Mazda boy
Mitsubishi ralliart is a great option if you dont care about not having a manual. Has turbo, same awd as Evo MR, easy to modify to Evo turbo, 4b11T is reliable, and about 10k
@@truckinNloving There's plenty of ralliarts on marketplace and the best part of a ralliart is the spare parts are shared with the base Lancer so its not expensive and available (for most parts)
Legacy gt is cool and all but the forester xt models can be had for about the same price. Id go with a forester xt so i can put family stickers on the back to rub salt in the wounds of the poor soul i just gapped.
As an owner of a TT MK1 be careful when checking it out. Some of the owners selling the car don't know but because of the age the haldex system can fail and you'll have a FWD car with a lot more power to the front wheels. I know this because it happened to me lmao. It Can make rain and snow driving a lot more fun, but difficult if you don't know what you are doing. Plus it's pretty expensive to repair if you do want that AWD system back. But either way it's a very fun car to drive.
bro forgot the dodge charger/chrysler 300 5.7 hemi awd, and my personal favorite dodge magnum rt awd. less than $10k and you get a 400hp V8 and all four tires spinning, not to mention cam kits only being around $1,000 and you’re making close to a scat pack with 0-60 times in the mid to low 3s
If you're gonna buy a 1st gen TT with the quattro, don't expect to make big power out of it unless you plan to make it a FWD. Their quattro system is known to be fragile and cannot handle that much more than the stock 225hp it came with at most
If its trunk connected to an rear window than it counts as a door too like 5 door car 3 door car , if its not connected then car has 4 or 2 doors . I just saying .
Not to be "that guy," but the Quattro in the first gen TT was basically false advertising. It's mostly either fwd or rwd (I can't remember but i think fwd) and the other wheels get powered only under certain circumstances. Someone pls add to or correct.
getting tired of yall talking as if all subarus have head gasket issues yo.....they been fixed that.... and if people out here just driving as tho they on a track and not doing proper maintenance and upgrades on ANY CAR, they are gonna eventually have problems.... yall are cool but the subaru jokes ain't funny no more.