Notch in Condor knife is used to strike a Ferro rod. U shaped piece of steel on the sheath is not for striking a Ferro rod, it's a steel used to hit rocks or pieces of flint to make sparks ie flint and steel.
I'm glad someone said it ha they want on about how bad the spine was .... If only they tried to incorporate another way to maintain the blade but also utilize the attached tools... Hmmmm
Swedish person here. Great vid! You did a good job proununcing Fällkniven, but I can teach you all to say it perfectly. "ä" in "Fällkniven" is pronunced like the "e" in "bell" or "belt". The "k" is prounounced and not silent. The "i" is a long e-sound, like in the word "steel". So it adds up to someting like "Fell-knee-ven". The name translates to "The folding knife", wierdly enough, since they're not known for their folders. Now you know. Thanks for bringing great content!
Hello and thanks for including one of my knives (The Selknam in this case). Answering your questions now 😉 The notch next to the "coconut breaker" is a Ferro Rod Scraper. The "U" shape tool in the sheath is NOT to scrap the ferro rod but a 1095 Flint & Steel striker, so it is designed for percussion fire 😉🔥 The sheath is the S-3, which stands for SURVIVAL SYSTEM SHEATH and the thre straps in the back are designed to store cordage, not to carrying horizontally. If you are carrying 550 cord you can storage up to 9 meters and if you store bank line way more. The pocket can store perfectly a mini altoids or similar box to keep your charcloth and a piece of flint or whatever you want to carry inside. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Best regards and many thanks again for trying it. Walt
The "Ferro Rod Scraper' is a totally useless gadget and it's a classical case of a design with too much crap rendering the knife "not good". In this case, that notch will hurt your hand. There's no need for such "rod scrapper" if your knife as a 90-degree spine and that's well known among the knife industry and enthusiasts. sorry, but: major fail here...
I'm a huge fan of the Ontario SP-5 Survival Bowie and the Ontario RAT 5. Both great for hard use, and the clip point on the bowie surprisingly doesn't hinder it in terms of Bushcraft
These knives really hit my sweet spot for an outdoor blade at 4-inches (+/- 1-inch). Some really attractive designs, too, with great materials and construction. I've already got several knives in this category, but now I'm tempted to pick up one or two more! 😅
I'm also a dangler sheath guy, so a quality sheath that I really like that I don't have to purchase extra is a nice bonus with the Genesis. LT Wright is easily my favorite if I only had one tool for bushcraft work. However, if I'm going out to the woods, I take the right tools for the job. I take a tomahawk or silky, a slicer I can use for cooking and camp chores (ESEE Laser Strike usually), and the ESEE RB3. The RB3 is great. Small and super easy to control for woodwork, whittling around the fire, etc. I'm just not relying on a scandi to do anything other than notching, feather sticks, or detailed work.
Great video! I just got the White River Small Game Hunter and my oh my what a knife... Regarding the Fällkniven/Morakniv it's more like FellKneeven and MooraKneev with hard K's. Keep it up with great banter!
Well said Dallas, the best knife is the one that fits your hand and style. Everyone yells about what is the best but really comes down to personal preference.
Hey. Great videos keep 'em coming, Thanks. Be nice to see some fixed blade "family comparisons". Like different sizes of the Bradford 3D guardians, white river firecraft, LT Wright Genesis grind styles (I think they have been in the videos)and the one I want to see, the Buck hunter line (Pro) I only just discovered the Buck 105 and I am pretty sure I need one. Be nice to see it in the hams next to the 119. They have the woodsman 102 - a skinner etc. I am sure more than a few of us have only seen them in pictures, and then not compared to something we know. Thanks
I just looked up the TOPS Knives BOB on your website and I have to give kudos to Mark for mentioning that it's a modified scandi grind in the overview video, which is linked there. It's on the Blade HQ Overview channel and it's called 'TOPS B.O.B. Survival Knife Overview'. ♥
I have several Condors I use as field/camp fixed blades - overall great value & reliable. I looked at the Selknam & tried my friend's. Sad to say not great - NOT because of quality but seems to be a bit confused as to what it is supposed to be. As the boys found out - good batoner & small chopper, but poor at detailed work & food prep. While I recommend Condor (esp. for newbies) I cannot recommend this knife. Shame as I love the design. Also I don't mind O1 & A2 steels. I use Super Blue to force patina when I use these steels in the field I has found that it improves rust/stain resistance (NOT prevention!) until I can get home after & maintain them properly. If you don't want patina then you need to maintain them even in field. Another informative vid guys - thanks.
the first condor knife looks really nice. I think the handmade leather case, knife nerds done hate me idk how to spell ''sheath'', is really really nice. I somehow love the little extra pouch and I was wondering if you could fit a Zippo lighter in there. Would be the ultimate childhood dream pack all in one and I would defo carrie it In the forest.
Out of all those knives you showed, I have the Ursus 45, the TOPS BOB, and the LT Wright Genesis. I actually have 7 different LT Wright knives. Then again, I'm nearing 100 fixed blades in my collection, so having 7 from one maker is no surprise. Bark River is my biggest individual maker in my collection. I have 22 of them. I may or may not have a knife problem.😁
Often times when I get a new knife..... there will most certainly be something it needs done to make it more comfortable in hand weather that's chamfering the edges or softening a bow divet....... but I enjoy doing that to my knives!!!!
Hey guys! What I would like to see when discussing handles and grip is how they handle when wet fron water(rain), when covered with oily substances (your choice, but I would choose avacado goo) and when covered with dirt and wet dirt (ie MUD). Haven't seen that! Thanks! HAPPY TRAILS!
All cool knifes. I've tried to find a knife that doubles as a bushcraft camp knife and a hunting knife, I've struck out. I got close with a bravo 1.25 lt, and a LT wright GNS, but for bushcraft, that scandi is so nice. Now I just have to many knifes, lol Thanks for sharing that winter camping trip! fun fun fun, and cold, lol
Great blades fellas , all ones I'd love to own. My pick would be the LT or BR. I have two Tops BOBs & an Esee RB3 that I love & would never part with. Thanks for sharing your experience & knowledge on some proven quality knives.
Hard to decide, but I like my BOB. 154cm is chippy if your not careful around harder stuff, but it will last forever on wood. Bk9 is still my go to… it’s perfection. Softer steel, but it sharpens to hair whittling with little effort and holds! I am going to bring my Bradford g4 this time around - since I ground off the factory edge I find the m390 is way better… someone wrote that the first few layers were overheated, and I think they were right.
After Zac is gone without any farewell or even any word, every time I watch BladeHQ videos I expect Zac returns. And honestly, this makes me think that BladeHQ is something wrong.
Guys, re the selknam knife..... the small section at the back is a 90 degree spine section for reverse grip striking your ferro rod. The included steel striker that is attached to the sheath is not for using on your ferro rod, this is a steel striker for using with flint rock for natural fire lighting with flint and steel. The front pouch on the sheath would be for tinder and or the flint rock. The side loop is obviously for a ferro rod that you strike with the knife back section not the included striker. Cheers boys, love the content.
The broom handle is made so that its more comfortable in different hand grips. Contour handles will work great with a conventional grip bit be awkward with like a reverse grip. The broomstick has the same feel no matter what way you grip it.
But why would you need a reverse grip in a bushcraft setting. As an edged weapon martial artist, broomstick like handles just lack control. And I hate reversed hand grips for any reason anyway. But too each their own.
Too bad there were no TRC knives in this test ;) Recently got the South Pole from them, and it is the best bush craft knife I have ever owed in my over 30 years collecting and using knives.
On the selknam knife spine on the lower third of the handle, that is a ferro rod striker, the spine there seems to be a perfect 90°, im still looking to buy one but id guess thats what its for
.125 is 1/8" .250 is 1/4" no hate just putting it out there. I really like that Condor. I think something like that will be my next knife purchase. I'd really like to stay under $150.
Rubber or Santoprene grips are super comfortable and great for cold weather feel but they eventually rot and turn to goo. You will have to replace the scales at some point. They last about 10 years at most. A rough burlap micarta is the best grip material IMHO.
I like nessmuk by esee n want to get a kephart to use as well, tried a bk-62 but found the blade to be too thin, trying to find a blade on a kephart comparable to my esee nessmuk.
24:30 into the recording. Your guy's were talking about gloves, do you recommend and particular gloves. Anything that you personally use and abuse, that holds up well?
kindly review the Cold Steel Razor Tak (6.5/5)or what can you say about these knives? I live on an island, looking for a bushcraft/survival knife that cheaper but good built. btw nice! vid. thanks guys. keep safe.
Probably late to the show, but at 2:40 I am guessing that protrusion that looks like a blade lock is probably for striking ferrous rods (probably spelled that wrong). I mean, look at it: located towards the rear of the handle so the blade can be in the sheath and you wont need to worry about slicing yourself; 90° grind- perfect for striking a spark& handle is recessed at that point, no worry (as much) about scorching up your handle. That is what it looks like to me...
Oh man, did Condor mess up a handle for a lanyard hole? I don’t get it. I have been wanting a BHK knife. I’m an LT Wright fanatic, even have a couple Blind Horse, but no BHK.
New to the channel, friend of mine has scorpion from the pathfinder school. He let me use it. And it did everything I wanted it to do. He’s only had it a year, I need more info than a year from one person. I am wanting to move up from a mora. Any suggestions?
The brush handle could be shaped to give a personalised grip. I.e. you talked about pinky length causing tighter grip with middle and ring finger. You could scrape some wood off where pjnky sits to,ev3n out grip.
