Best Bushcraft Knives: L.T. Wright Tells Us What To Look For 

@TunaPlusMayo....LT Wright is slightly more robust than Mora, and this is NOT my opinion. For one thing, LT Wright usually uses a full tang construction, whereas Mora knives usually go with a 3/4 rat tang construction. That being said, I cannot bash Mora Knives beyond their use of rat tangs. Mora has been making premium quality bushcraft knives for much, much longer, and they’re known for being some of the sharpest knives in the world. They have absolutely amazing ergonomics, and you brought up the fact that they’re usually well within someone’s budget. Mora also has a much wider selection of knives and steels that one can try out. They’re an amazing knife company no doubt, but if you’re considering batoning through a lot of hardwood, then consider a full tang construction for whatever knive you end up using. Mind you, I have batoned through hardwood using a Mora knife, but it can loosen the blade from the handle after hours of hard use. That’s never happened to me with an LT Wright full tang. I will finish by saying that Mora is probably superior at carving tasks. It’s the perfect size to manage fine feather sticking and detailed carving. Mora is also great for notch making. Both knife manufacturers are great options for bushcrafting! ✌️

@@anderseckstrand7033 I've watched a video of a rubber Mora handle cut open to expose the "rat tail". Please tell me how you ever got that loose inside of there because it doesn't seem possible. Seriously, watch the video and tell me how you did it.

@@TunaPlusMayo It’s not only possible, it’s highly likely. I’ve blown through a dozen Mora’s over the last 4-5 years. I’ve broken them clean at the base, snapped the tips off, ruptured the handles, etc... There’s a very good reason as to why they’re inexpensive. Their reputation FAR exceeds their actual performance.

@@theblake5356 Then what are you doing to them? I'm curious, not being a jerk. I've also seen a different video of people standing on them as steps stuck into a tree. The model in that video was the Robust though. Sorry to cite so many secondhand sources of abuse, but my own Moras are chugging along great for my simple non-harsh needs.

@@TunaPlusMayo "my simple non-harsh needs" Then it fits: Mora, "my simple non-harsh needs" low budget knife. And I think: Stronger blade, full tang, then we could do business.

@Joe Faultroy G'day Joe, Thanks for your comments. Yes, I'm a collector/user, this means I'll search for a knife, or a range of knives, from various makers that suit certain tasks I need to accomplish. I agree with your views on making thick, blades extending right through the handle. This, of course, is a positive advantage in knives over, say 6" up to 10 or even 12" long. On the other hand, LTWK makes a truly handy machete that has a relatively thin blade. The handle ergonomics are outstanding and this tool can be used for a long time without wearing out the user. But, in a 3.5" or 4.5" knife a thick blade is, basically, a design flaw UNLESS one has a specific task that can only be accomplished by such a design... unfortunately, I can't think of a situation where such a blade of that length would be useful at all. I like the way knife design is going now with good ergonomic handled knives with short thin blades that are fashioned out of one of the newer 'super steels'. They hold their factory edge for a really long time and only need careful honing and then a short sharpening sequence, depending on frequency and type of use. LT's range of smaller knives are all multi-use from opening boxes to gutting small animals, to food prep to whittling etc., etc. (My preferred honing is done with ceramic rods of various diameters; I protect them with round Kydex sheaths for use in the field.) At home I use an F. Dick oval cross-section multi-steel that is expensive but extremely effective and will last a couple of lifetimes. I have several long Kukris that have a thick blade profile but then, cleverly, narrow as they enter the handle; reducing the handle thickness and providing a deliberate forward weight result. This is handy in a knife that is used in battle and religious ceremonies where the Kukri is almost like a small axe; decapitating animals for religious sacrifice or, in battle, to this very day where the British Army issues its Gurkha troops modern versions of their ancient designs for 'last ditch' personal protection and offensive weapons. These can be devastatingly effective in close quarter combat where most '1st world' troops have no experience in defending themselves against such formidable weapons that Gurkhas have been using since they were children. A lone WW2 Gurkha soldier won a Victoria Cross for taking out an enemy platoon with his Kukri after everyone ran out of ammunition; a Kukri in experienced hands prevailing over multiple bayonets. Across the board, other kinds of thick bladed knives do take the place of small woodsmen's hatchets for those not wishing to carry an axe like edged tool. An interesting short bladed, single edged dagger type knife was recently designed by serving and former members of the Australian Army. It has a classic 'flattened apex' spine with small saw teeth at the handle end of the non-sharpened edge. It is incredibly light, meant for ambidextrous use and features a 'bottle opener' shaped end loop that one can lock a finger into making this blade extremely hard to wrestle out of the operator’s hand. It is also a good small size that means it can easily be concealed behind webbing or inside or outside of a belt, scout style. Of course, it really has only one primary use, however, I've found a couple of non-combat tasks for it and it is a highly dextrous design that is easy to use and is so light that there are no fatigue issues at all. So, this is my, very long-winded, way of saying that no matter what the blade profile, handle thickness or weight balance, each good knife should have a logical and functional use in mind before it should go into production. Apart from LTWK's famous range I've got a really amazing heavy, 7” long, thick bladed Mike Wallace design with a Yellow Hawk custom sheath. The knife is definitely forward heavy but, strangely feels well balanced due to a slight cant between the angle of the cutting edge and the handle, very similar to the, also excellent, Dark Timber range, if you can get one of these highly sort after knives. I would use one of these knives over a hatchet or even a small axe any day. I use my knives to manufacture walking sticks, for fellow veterans, from fallen native timbers. I also use them in general camping, food prep plus I like to carry a good, sturdy small and large knife when I'm out using my recurve bow when practicing my archery. Other people have other uses for their knives so they gravitate to designs that work for them. It's really a case of 'horses for courses'. It's one of those aspects that make knife using and collecting such a satisfying activity. Cheers, BH P.S. I know I'll cop some flak for such a long post but so be it. I'm a retired writer and journalist and way past caring. ;)

Put $1 in a jar every day. If you had started when you made this post, you could buy one today.

what do you use "Big Bowies " for ?

@@baroneroberto3400 whatever I want...its a knife, bro. Its not that complicated. What exactly do you think you can't do with a big bowie? Lol

I was going to say the very same thing. The super steels they have today is way better than just 10 years ago as well as the heat treating process gets better with each year that passes. The heat treat process is quite possibly more important than the super steel itself, or in other words you can ruin a nice piece of super steel if you don't have the heat treat done properly. Now you can get away with thin blades and that makes knives much more cut/user friendly.

I make knives of every kind of steel you can imagine, and let me be the first to say that people put way too much emphasis on steel type. Geometry is what makes a knife work or not work. A great design made from basic 1075 steel will run rings around a poorly designed knife made from the latest super steel. Proper heat treat will get the most out of your steel. What steel type does is emphasize some trait that you are after, but like anything else in life it is a compromise. As far as geometry, thickness is a huge part of that and thicker knives simply cut like crap. The first thing you need to determine is whether you want a knife that slices or chops. Something in the middle will do both, but do neither very well. I think a big reason for the really thick bushcraft knives is that they got popular about the same time as tactical knives began to get popular. I lost count of how many tactical knives were more of a sharpened pry bar, because they aren't worth crap as a cutting implement. But if you want to pry and baton hard wood, then you need a blade that will stand up to that- and a second knife in your pack for more delicate cutting tasks.

Check out the Scandivex ground knives from TOPS -DCA

3/8" diameter, but it can be stretched bigger with warm water and patience.

That is the Gen 5 from L.T. Wright -DCA

@@knifecenter thanks Dave!

Comes in waves. We actually have a shipment that should be up and available later this week -DCA

@@knifecenter Excellent! Thank you for the quick response.

you think a thicker knife = more durability ? you must be the guy that "feathersticks" then uses his knife to "baton" ....

Speaking for the JRE sheaths that LTWK uses, I have wet formed several and they are not bonded leather. And although I have never wet formed a Joker sheath, I have seen nothing to make me think it is not pure leather. -DCA