Best Competition Boulderer For Women (2008~2023)

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Note that the Elo is calculated per-event for this video (and interpolated between events). In the AscentStats website, the more robust "seasonal" Elo is shown instead.
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Опубликовано:

28 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 48

@opiniononion Год назад

Janja goes straight to top about as fast as she flashes boulders.

@GeekClimber Год назад

Curious to see how long she can hold the number one spot for!

@Ima_Virgin_69 Год назад

@@GeekClimber can u pls make a vdo on how strong are Rock Climbers / Boulderers compared to the average Guy / gal ? I've seen rock climbers destroying pull up chalenges . Do you think they are ( Rock Cb. ) in top 1 percent on the strength ( pulling) continuum. Also I was wondering : Rock Climber / Boulderer vs Rings Gymnasts , who is stronger?

@storm_osrs Год назад

Akiyo Noguchi stayed at the top for so long

@BigShelley Год назад

I miss watching Akiyo climb so much. She was so consistently good for so long, it's really amazing. Jain Kim's recent comeback after having a baby has been mind-blowing as well. I know there are some factors to consider when looking at her recent win (several top athletes not competing, Chaehyun's clipping mistake), but to be making finals at all after coming out of retirement and GIVING BIRTH is crazy.

@cheeks7050 Год назад

@@BigShelley Having a baby is not as big a disadvantage as you may think.

@henketooraw Год назад

Awesome work as always bro!

@GeekClimber Год назад

Thank you for the awesome music, man!

@mrtimothylee Год назад

I don't know what Elo means but I enjoyed the graphics lol

@thibaut4780 Год назад

It comes from chess I think it’s a way to measure someone’s skills

@tts3397 Год назад

RIP Chloé Graftiaux

@Ryan997. Год назад

Had no idea elo even existed in climbing. Kind of a weird system to have for it.

@Mylada Год назад

I do not think it is used, but you can always calculate the ELO rating. It's a good way to put a number on climbers skill

@GeekClimber Год назад

The reason why V grade or Font grade isn't used here is because we believe competition climbing should have it's own grade. For example, if the setters set a straight forward V11, everyone in the field would flash it, but if a setter set a tricky dynamic V7, due to the time limitation, some athletes would end up being able to send it and some would end up being not able to. This is very different from conventional gym climbing and outdoor climbing where beta can be found and projection time is unlimited.

@rorypotter1011 Год назад

Basic ELO shouldn't be applied to competition climbing as competition climbing is a multi-player sport (not just one vs one), and the field of play changes each competition. A ranking system like TrueSkill (or one of the other multiplayer ranking systems), which is used on the Xbox network for multiple players, would be a better choice.

@AlexeiDrummond Год назад

@@rorypotter1011 TrueSkill is a matchmaking algorithm for multi-player games. We are not matchmaking here, we are attempting to determine who the best climber is and what is the probability that each climber would successfully top a typical IFSC boulder problem. For this purpose climbing can be thought of as a series of two-player games between a climber and a boulder problem. The boulder problem has a difficulty (often described by a grade outside of competition contexts) and the climber has a skill level. These can be expressed on the same scale. The result is Elo (or grade) for a climber that changes through time, and Elo (or grade) for boulder problems that are fixed for a problem, but the problems change from one competition to the next.

@rorypotter1011 Год назад

I understand Trueskill as a ranking algorithm for multiple players, and then you use that ranking for matchmaking. There are lots of different attempts at generalising ELO and Trueskill is not the only one. I recently been reading about ELO-MMR which calls out rock climbing competitions as being in this more general setting.

@pierrez8570 Год назад

This seems VERY WEIRD that Janja instantly jumped to #1 after just making a final in Meiringen 2016. She didn't even win the event, and it was her first in senior ever. By that same weirdness of calculation we have oddities like Megan Mascarenas being the best boulderer in the world at some point in 2015... She won one competition, she never was the best in the world. It seems awfully susceptible to recent results.

@andrewjackson3959 Год назад

That's how ELO works. You gain more points if you beat higher rated opponents, and you lose more points if you get beaten by lower rated opponents. It doesn't represent who the best athlete is, it just shows who can get the most arbitrary points. It works in chess because the dataset is extremely large (hundreds or even thousands of games), it doesn't work for comp climbing because the dataset is very small (handfull to a few dozens of competitions).

@XanEli1 Год назад

It's funny to see such a flat distribution. I guess it makes sense given the way female bell curve distributions work generally. If you look at the history of elo/rank on male sports/games it's much more wild than this.

@AscentStats Год назад

What do you mean by a flat distribution? The origin is meaningless in any Elo distribution. The only thing that matters is the difference between Elos. What is extreme about this distribution is how far ahead Janja Garnbret is, and in 2022 Natalia Grossman also. The rest (in the top 6) are a bit more even, but that is also true in the mens competition, where we had five different winners out of six competitions.

@XanEli1 Год назад

@@AscentStats Who was talking about the origin specifically. I was referring to the shape of the curve. I actually made a mistake though calling it flat because the shape of the bell is very steep and condensed. The probability of massive outliers on the tail ends is simply less than the high variance of male bell curves. I'll comment some thoughts on having 6 different winners for 6 diff things. There are 3 likely reasons for that imo. 1. Those competitions are each different specializations in which case you should expect a different winner for each. 2. The actual construction of the competitions are not accurately demonstrating a proper and correct skill differential. For example if there is some hidden chaos or pseudo randomness in them. 3. It's just chance that at the tail end of a male bell curve in a single endeavor ended closer or as close together as a female one. Even still, because we would be so zoomed in on that graph, it wouldn't go to demonstrate the shape of the whole graph.

@cheeks7050 Год назад

Climbing is a rare sport where the female events are as fun to watch as the male events.

@peeted7105 Год назад

Achieving a 3000+ Elo rating when the vast majority of your opponents are 2700 or below is just insane.

@tudorvezentan3529 Год назад

They all are pretty good at chess ngl

@mikhailgavrilov8980 Год назад

Ahahh so funny. Sike

@tudorvezentan3529 Год назад

@@mikhailgavrilov8980 cip cirip mancamiai pula

@BetaBoiBrandon Год назад

Applying an elo rating to climbing is the geekiest thing ever, and I am so excited for the explanation

@Hankyuo Год назад

This video is almost like an ad for Akiyo Noguchi, insane career.

@AscentStats Год назад

After Janja Garnbret and Natalia Grossman, Akiyo Noguchi has the third highest season Elo we have estimated in the entire data set :)

@granulategrain Год назад

While this is interesting, I feel things need to be explained more and justified. A change in overall ELO over time is expected, an Inflation of ~700 ELO points in 15 years seems a tad absurd to me. That would basically mean all top climbers today would beat top climbers in 2008 (in their prime) 99% of the time, assuming a relatively stable score. I feel climbers have gotten better over the years, but without strong evidence, I don't think new climbers today are THAT much better. This could be interesting to see when tuned a little better, especially using maybe highest grade to tune the ELOs of the eras (e.g. Janja Garnbret and Anna Stöhr both have a highest bolder grade of V14, though Janja is a beast at onsighting, doing a ton of 8c's). Interested to see what is said in the companion video!

@ArchibaldVonSkip Год назад

For anyone wondering, top was Janja @3051.

@Huange._. Год назад

I was wondering, how do you make these types of videos? Do you just program stuff and this is the result?

@Felix-lq6jy Год назад

you can do it that way yes

@mikhailgavrilov8980 Год назад

When was Grossman even close to Jajna exactly😂😂😂

@Miaumiau3333 Год назад

I'm completely new to bouldering. I was wondering, can women's Elo ratings be directly compared with men's? If Janja is rated around 3000 does it mean that she's stronger than the male boulderers?

@mikhailgavrilov8980 Год назад

The short answer is it can't be compared.

@andrewjackson3959 Год назад

No, you gain more points if you beat higher rated opponents, and you lose more points if you get beaten by lower rated opponents. To compare it to men's ELO they would have to compete against the men to normalize the ELO.