Best D2 Steel Pocket Knives Under $50 

3:12 "makes it good for more than just combat" yeah truly top-notch and no doubt he knows what he's talking about

@@chrisnotyourbusines7739 im sure everyone at knife center knows what they are talking about. Thats why its such a great company.

Not really, though. I've watched a few videos by him and oftentimes doesn't tell if knives have pivot bearings, which makes a big difference imo.

@@chrisnotyourbusines7739 😆👍

Thanks Jack!

Yeah I agree. These videos are very well done. He's got a good voice for this kind of work, and very professional delivery.

I know nothing about this topic, just started to get into it a bit, but already just a few moments in and I know what D2 is! Can I ask how do you keep the blade sharp?

I agree. This guy is short sweet and to the point. BHQ is cool also, but just a little too much giggling and looking back and forth at each other. But they do have some cool gear. So i guess i have to watch both.

blade hq is much more of an entertainment company

We'll work on it. We do have another good video about S30V and S35vn steel folders under $100 at: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F3yEkEKL7WQ.html

Check out the Kershaw Highball. In 2 sizes both in D2.

they… don’t sell ganzo on knifecenter.

Thank you for the kind words Kirk! -DCA

@@knifecenter Your Very Welcome !!!

What was the name of the knife he compared this knife to? I couldn't make it out.

@@gilbertjauregui459 WE Knife Drakon (as I understood it) If Im right look for: WE Knife Drakon 819A bronze

@@alexandermarquardt597 thank you!

@@gilbertjauregui459 Happy If I could help :)

Eafengrow

@@BChan1991 Eafenblow*

Geathand me downs

Wharnfoot?

John Grytbakk it’s on amazon for like $170 right now LOL

This video says it's under $50

⁠@@damon5899i can guarantee you’re looking at the s35vn carbon fiber model dude

The Kershaw Highball is a coated d2 knife with an xl option too if you like a bigger blade. Looks and feels great and I love mine.

Edit.. . The highball coating isn't on the full blade. I just checked! 😁

I won one and started using it recently and really like it.

I have one. Just had to put some locktight on it because it would come loose.

Thanks for the tip. Looks awesome

If you have a D2 knife that rusts easily it isn't D2. I make D2 fillet knives used in saltwater ht to HRC60-61 with a 1000 temper for toughness. I use American made Carpenter D2 with 12% chromium, stainless is 13%. I haven't had one customer return a blade with rust or pits. I'd bet you have chinesium D2.

Thank you and Merry Christmas to you as well!

Or just use a 300-400 medium grit diamond stone. I only use real diamonds in my stropping 5000 grit/4 micron diamond compound. An abrasive engineer told me to use real diamonds, manmade are rounded off. Same price, it is how the diamond is attached to the stone that's expensive.

@@MountainFisher it says affordable :)

@@MrRourk Look at the cheaper EZE LAP stones, run under $20 and a Tech Diamond Tools choose from 2000 grit to 14,000 grit, 50% concentration (heavy) 5 gram syringe is $11 for whatever grit you want to finish with. Now how does that compare to buying a bunch of silicon wet dry sandpaper over 5 years? That is how long the diamond items will last and time is money too vs. messing with sandpaper and the mess. You use very little compound once the leather has built some up. My syringes are 5 years old and I have about a 1/4 left. I make knives and sometimes put a mirror finish on a small one by hand. Diamond is very aggressive and after I wet grind to 600 grit I hand rub it with 1200 grit sandpaper with diamond compound mixed in. After that it is strictly leather and diamond to 1 micron-14,000/16,000 grit. Hand rubbing is the only way you can put a mirror polish on certain steels like D2, if you use a buffer you get an orange peel effect. Now you know more than you even wanted to know.

Same here.

Yep tough as !!!!

Carry two. One in each front pocket

powder stainless steels on folders makes exponentially more sense than a fixed blade. they tend to have lots of edge retention but not a lot of toughness. now, things like 3v or cruwear make sense on a fixed blade, but toughness and edge retention are just as important for folders as fixed blades

It is a fine blade!

It's a great upgrade from 8cr14mov. Holds an edge about twice as long.

Both are hard to sharpen. For regular folk, not a knife-nut D2/S30V/S35VN are way too hard. Then if I cant resharpen my EDC on the side window of my car or bottom of my mug, then it's worth... less. AUS8, 9Cr, 440C, Sandvik - way better for normal folk.

@@HanSolo__it takes me just as long to sharpen 9cr18mov as it does s30v on my sharpening system bc of how soft the 9cr is

A lot of people like them, but I've been disappointed with them. I've ordered two different models and ended up returning both. The actions were really poor. Maybe I just got unlucky, I don't know, but it turned me off the brand. I've been much happier with Bestech and Civivi. They both have excellent fit and finish in the models I have and their actions are superb.

@@abc456f did you try the Intrigue? It works for me.

@@LarryEMorse No...I had a cutjack in D2 and a piercer.

@@abc456f Man, the Cutjack is really popular. Haven't seen it but what was wrong with yours?

@@LarryEMorse The action was gritty and stiff. I might have been able to take it apart and work on it, but I felt it was unacceptable to get it out of the box and it being that bad, so I returned it and got my money back. Same exact thing happened with the piercer I bought. Sent it back as well. So I've ignored Steel Will since. Maybe I just got unlucky but with other brands that I've been happy with, Real Steel, Bestech to name a couple, in the same price range, I don't feel I want to take another chance with Steel Will.

Any blade play on the terminus? I'm curious out it

@@msharmall7298 on mine, it had little to no blade play, which im very surprised by, since it's only a 49.99 retail knife

Mine chipped too

Same here

There are three ways to temper a D2 blade. At 450 for 2 hours 2x, gives a hard brittle edge, even with cryo in liquid nitrogen it is still chippy. I temper my fixed blades at 1000 degrees with a LN quench for 24 hours then temper again at 1000 degrees a 2nd time for 2 hours and knife is done. The 1000 temper raises the hardness back up, but imparts toughness. Is it hard to sharpen? At 60-61 hard yes, but that is mostly the vanadium carbides which are actually 0.2 points harder on the Mohs scale than tungsten carbide. As you can see these cheaply heat treated blades from China mostly are not properly heat treated and you can tell because they're too cheap and chip, mine won't unless you abuse them. For any high vanadium steel buy a 400 grit diamond sharpener, a good one and after you've formed a proper bevel then use a hard ceramic or Buck Stone, then strop using 2000 grit diamond compound on leather, then use 5000 compound on a flat hardwood board. For a good working or butcher's edge stop at 1200 or 800 grit.