People complain because this test is not under "laboratory conditions"? Out in my driveway is not laboratory condition either. Thanks for a very informative video.
riiight? lol omg omg wheres the nasa scientists. I don't have any of those either at my house. people go out and do the test yourself and prove them wrong, ill bet anything most will complain about cost, time , bla blah.
Same. I'm hardly whipping out a scientifically accurate weights and measurement setup every time I need to do something. I appreciated this for what it was.
Just because you don't use products under strict laboratory conditions at home, does not in any way, shape, or form mean that strict controls aren't needed to compare results.
I don't care if your test was not done under lab conditions, the job that I need the epoxy for is not in a lab. This was great to see and know which would best hold up for my job. Great job guys.
That was a great test of strength test. Thanks. I worked in a chemical industrial setting for over 30 years. And as a maintenance mechanic, we had to do field repairs on many different pumps, pipes, and all types of materials, just to get them through till the day shift. And the biggest thing that made any product work better was get things as clean and dry as you could. I am still amazed at some of the repairs we were able to make. Thanks for your work.
Hey, this is no lab. I would have to use precise scale to have the same amount of epoxy and then how do you apply to be exactly the same. Some are thick, some thin, impossible to be accurate. Thanks
Respect from "Tool City" (Meadville Pa.) Leave it to the Tool and Die guys to do a test like this. Typically well done. As a gent in the market for one of these products to repair my MB, you have increased the quality of the job. Thanks.
I have a couple stainless steel bracelets that I wear all of the time. Right now I have wire ties holding the clasps together but I've been thinking that it might be a good idea to use JB Weld, Loctite, Devcon or QuikSteel to glue the clasps shut and get rid of the wire tiies.
I was doing some research to find the right adhesive for a project. This video was EXACTLY what I needed to see to ensure I buy the correct product. Thank you,!
Most epoxies won't grab a smooth surface. 60-80 grit treatment on both surfaces would give the epoxy something to grab and clean the surfaces with acetone.
@@garethbaus5471 Sandblasting is probably not rough enough for a strong bond. So it's not a good method for an adhesive. You'd sandblast something if you were going to paint it. Paint is different, since it can more easily roll across the surface (as it is a liquid) and "sink" into the metal. The ideal surface for epoxy would be hitting the metal with 500 grit sand paper in an X pattern. Also, the surface must be cleaned. Sandblasting will leave residue, it's called microscopic sand particles, or dust.
@@hellcatdave1 um dont know about you But where I come from 500 grit is pretty fine lol..... And a sand blasted finish would indeed be rougher..... If you dont believe me go sandblast something......then rub it with 500 grit paper in an x pattern..... Will shine it right up hahahaha
Thanks for doing this test and posting it. Very informative from a comparative point of view for the consumer. Your video gives an idea of which epoxy has the greatest adhesion, as simple as the test was.
Good job guys. Like to see threaded studs each epoxied into same size clearance hole, then, a washer and nut can be tighten with a torque wrench to test epoxy strength.
Interest but not convinced. Looking at broken metal with different epoxy. Not all looked dry. Cure time with most non quick agents is six hours and true dry time is 24 hours and even days. Did you allow that? Or was all within the cure time?
Seeking honest advice: I'm trying to re-install the factory sunroof. I pulled a functioning sunroof from the junkyard. When the previous owner jury rigged a universal sunroof into the ceiling, they sawed off the factory cross beams with the bolt patterns needed to mount the sunroof into. If I go back to the junkyard and pull the cross beam, even if I have to grind it out, can I stick the beam to the ceiling back on with epoxy? Worried welding would scorch the paint on the roof.
great test and even thought the video quality is very low, you did a great test prep (by sandblasting giving them THE BEST fighting chance) and you tested for complex load (ie shear combined with both tension and compression) and provided very nice results.
But JB Weld can withstand temperatures up to 287 degrees Celsius. This is very useful and I often use it instead of soft soldering for model engineering. I am not sure if the other glues can do this ?
Ya i was looking at that then found your comment. He didnt make it fair. To be completely honest, jb weld never failed me for all the jobs i use it for. Good eye bro 👌
I'm just saying, that even though they basically said this test was far from scientific, it would be nice to get the list of each in order of performance, AS WELL as their advertised PSI rating.
Thumbs up for taking your time to conduct the experiment. I can understand why people are complaining that it wasn't "controlled." Could you retry the experiment with equal amounts of epoxy just for the sake of science?
Anyone notice that there was substantially more of the loctite than any other? Not sure about this test. There is no proff repeatability plus we have no idea what the preparation conditions were.
Very Nice...I have used JB on my car gas filler neck to seal it, JB has worked just fine for over four years. In CA we have to do smog test every two years and the car just passed smog again on Dec 20th 2017. I am sure all are good it's just I have used JB and so far it has worked for me.
We are trying to reinforce our canopy/bug tent. Howl fully you know what I mean. Would you recommend any of these product to help reattach the pieces that have broken. We already welded it back together but the strong winds have ripped it apart again we are looking for something to bond them back together then hopefully welding in more rods to help reinforce it.
You missed one of the most used epoxies in motorsports: Moroso A, B Putty. What exactly are you trying to find out? That should be your first question. I used putty to raise and lower crankcase pressures. I also used it to reshape intake manifold ports. But, I stayed away from the exhaust heat side of things. By mastering the use of the putty I set 14 land Speed Records. All the motors had putty in them! Great test.
hi Trout Junkie thanks for this inside, but a small note: epoxy will usually harden within 24 to 48 hours for applications, however, after at least 72 hours or more, than epoxy is maximum loadable. Assuming that it hardens at least at 20 degrees Celsius.
I wonder how JB weld and the others would have performed if you covered their entire section with the product just like you did with loctite, adding more surface area for it to bond and adhere to.
i have a question whats a good one to use if you just wanna hide a semi deep scratch?...i damaged a part at work and id like to hide or camouflage a gouge in a part..does any of these resemble the color and appearance of a freshly machined part,,dont want a product thats too dark and will be noticeable..any tips?
Thanks for spending the time and effort demonstrating the reliability of these products. i've always wanted to know which one was best when doing repair work. Needless to say, I'l be stocking up on Loctite Metal.
I think this was a good video it proved to me a point which product was better. Just because a product has a lot of hipped up advertising doesn't necessarily mean it's the best product on the market, great job guys.
It just goes to show how you apply a product makes a difference. JB weld did one of the best in a similar test on the project farms channel. Thanks for the video
Why is everything upside down in the video? In my opinion this video is totally worth redoing with the exact same circumstances with the names of the products correctly oriented so people can read them without standing on their head. Besides that annoyance it would be a back-to-back study to see if the exact same results occurred.
For one those are side loads, Second the 6" extension is not holding 27 lbs. You need to calculate the real loads as the distance from center bond to end is increased every 1" by 2.5x per lb. Just as adding an extension on a torque wrench by 2" reduces the real torque applied by 2.3x
I know about the distance. I'm an engineer. This is why we were testing in this way. It takes very little weight to break the bond due to length of the bolts. If we would had hang it straight down, it would take 100 lbs (not safe)
hey guys interesting video, I am trying to glue a rod iron wall hook, at the top of it where a leaf fell off, . So I don't intend to put too much weight on it. So which glue was the winner?
Definitely interesting I would of thought JB would of one as far as gorilla glue that stuff has crapped out every time I've used it this video helped me decide loc-tite it is
at 1:36 minutes you can see that LOC Metal has more excess glue surrounding the 2 bolts. The excess pool of glue surrounding the 2 bolts will definitely give more adhesive strength to the bolts. Come on guys you should wipe off excess glue from all the bolts. This is not a fair strength test.
strength is cool and all but what about longevity to weather, Heat, and how much the material expands in heat and cold. I bet JB weld will do better with high heat
Good test. You realize of course that the further out the test weight is hung, the more leverage comes into play. So that the force of the static weight is actually increased.
as long as it was done equally to all the bolts, then the test results are still informative. the point wasn't where weights should be placed to increase or lessen joints.
Not a bad video for evaluating adhesion to steel alloy. I would love to see a data table of a whole test series of the different products adhesion to brass, copper, aluminum, cast iron, steal, stainless, wood, and pvc plastic with 4 or 5 repeats on each measuring tensile and shear strength. Epoxy can produce a chemical bond so I suspect the results will not be the same on different materials. There are different methods for testing the adhesion of glues. ASTM has several different tests for testing different adhesion properties such as ASTM D1002 Lap Shear Strength of Adhesively Bonded Metal Specimens. For a quick and dirty starting point your test method is just as good as any. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome I love it, ignore all the negative comment. Those people probably are negative about everything. You proved a point. Anyway the glue is failing in the connection to the bar which is surface contact. Not the thickness of it.
You took the time to prep the bolts and square tube, but didn't meter the epoxies used, apply the epoxies in a consistent manner, weigh the pieces you were dangling off the "ends," time anything, calculate the surface areas being bonded, measure the moment arms (bolt lengths), etc. Pretty useless "test."
Sometimes I think that the manufacturers lie about the cure time. Could you perform this test again after leaving them cure for a much longer period of time-say two or three weeks or even a month? I would really like to know if more curing time makes a difference. Thanks, Bob
The amount and distribution of adhesive used on each bolt head appears to be different on each set of bolts. Also the bar was not clamped evenly to the table on both ends, so the twisting moment was not the same throughout the length of the bar.
Try a 50 pound iron weight used in weightlifting lol. But I would use some thing that you can keep adding a 2 1/2 or 5 pound weight to like a dumbell. Also, those that work need to be retested after time to see how long the best ones hold up over time.. remember that crazy glue commercial where the construction worker glued the top of his hard hat to a steel beam and held the hard hat? was that supposed to be 1 drop holding a man? I bought something decades ago and I wish I remember what because it is still like welded metal. I would like to see what is best to glue wood to metal. Like a hand tool.
First, thank you for this informal test, which although technically not very accurate as you so admit, is nevertheless very useful for real world situations. Have you considered a second test run after this one, especially a pull test? How fresh were the products under testing? In any case - what are YOU guys using now?
I think scuffing the peices you plan to epoxy will work better than sandblasting. , when you scuff it, it leaves groves in the material, do this on both parts to be fixed together and the epoxy will seep into the groves and form a even more secure bond. in a sense giving the epoxy more to grip to, than an almost perfectly smooth surface is a whole lot better.
I noticed this is not Gorilla's new Steel Bond Epoxy. I wonder if it is any better than what was demonstrated. Seems the Loctite made for metal did the best with..metal.
A good subjective test. A few variables with the fractionally different weights of mixed adhesive and the fractionally different mixing ratios but great for a basic idea of how good these products realy are.
I want to put a factory roof rack on my jeep cherokee and since it came with out one from factory .I can not drill the one I got from a junk yard on the roof nothing to anchor it to .I am thinking of appoxy it on to the roof .The locktight metal looks like it might work for my purpose .Being it is a flat surface .What do you think ? I appreciate your thoughts .God Bless
It will hold just fine as long as you have large surface area and remove any paint from the roof where the epoxy goes. If you glue it over the paint, it will just peel the paint off (the weakest link). You want metal to metal. Paint has very little holding power.
old vid but I have to say your great effort seemed ruined by applying very different amounts. However, although we can't see, you could tell if it broke the adhesion to the metal or broke the solid adhesive itself and then how thick you made that compared to the others.
Your applying torque the the adhered joint. The force is a function of the length at which the string is attached. The tensile strength is at the top part of the weld and on the bottom side you have compression force. It looks like about 135 lbs / adhesive area at the the top in square inches. Probably around 1000 to 1500 psi
Metalman1, explain what you mean by (that). If you mean the epoxy released from a different place, impressed is not the correct term, but it is a significant difference which must be noted. My first thought would be the surface was not wetted well, second would be contamination at that spot on the bar. Why the snarky response?
Astro Camper Taken from JB weld's official FAQ on their website: Q: What can I use as a surface cleaner before using J-B Weld? A: We recommend using acetone or lacquer thinner. In the absence of these two, soap and water can be used. Just be sure that the surface is completely dry before applying J-B Weld. DO NOT use alcohol or any “cleaner” that will leave a petroleum residue." -- Specifically states to NOT use alcohol to clean the surface. Use Acetone and try this test again, if you want valid results.
could I use steel stick on a crack on plastic radiator then put the plastic weld on top and around the still stuck the radiator gets to hot and blew the plastic weld right off
Imagine if a epoxy product was so strong that bolt bent down with hundreds of pounds, further hits with a sledge hammer just buckled the bolt and the box section, deformed and bent but glue did not break, then hit it witha blow tourch to get it glowing orange and repeat the test the glue holds up, the only glue that is this strong is actually welding the bolts to the steel box section. I think we can keep dreaming that a epoxy in a tube was that strong.
why would you sand blast and sand all the surfaces smooth? wouldn't it make sense to have a rough surface for the bonding agents to adhere to? they aren't suction cups.
Here is a real experience in the field. I have a metal tube behind my LT1 engine that carries antifreeze that sprung a strong shooting leak. So I cleaned it very well and I applied a thick coat of JB weld to the long crack at the turn of the tube. JBWeld sealed the crack and it has been sealed now for 2 weeks without any leaks. Good event. But here is what else I did. I happen to be working on two pieces of aluminum for the gas water heater thermostat. One piece broke off which I needed to bond it to the body of the thermostat to be able to use it, because a new thermostat would cost me over $100. I used JB Weld. Even after 24 hours of curing, the minute I tried to screw themocouple into it, it popped off just as fast. I got my Original Gorilla Glue out and cleaned the surfaces with sand paper to be shiny, and applied the Gorilla Glue, and waited for 24 to cure. The pieces separated immediately, still cant use the thermostat. So now I went to Gorilla clear seal, and followed the directions to the letter, but the result was no different. Still unable to use the thermostat. So now this test on this video is very helpful, and I will be trying to bond the two aluminum pieces together tomorrow, to hopefully keep them bonded so i can use the thermostat. I will use the Loctite Metal adhesive to attempt to bond the two pieces of aluminum and I will report the results after a few days. thank you
Thanks for posting! How far did the adhesives go into the hex holes on the screw heads? That extra shear surface area could make a big difference. Also, did you control the thickness, the initial bonding force, or the amount of each used?
MOMENT ARM -- a horizontal distance of an object measured from a defined “datum” point to the CG of the object, usually measured in inches. A (+) arm means the object is behind the datum. ... DATUM -- a point in the part from which all moment arms are measured. The force applied to the joint is greater the arm. good information
I work in a materials testing lab and in my experience this is a very good GRC, "gross reality check." Of course we are not accurate to the gram but in general this gives a very good idea of how these adhesives compare under a similar load. It's not perfect but more than adequate. Good job, thanks for the video.
I for one appreciate your effort. This is the type of test I have been looking for. It gives me a very good idea of what to use. Don't sweat the negative comments. It supported for me the fact that Gorilla glue sucks in any form.
LOCTITE is quality and they also make good silicon gasket compound, it's hard to beat. I've tried the Gorilla tape and it is sticky but won't hold up if there is any heat close to it. Thanks for your review.
This test is really a great idea. The varying quantity/shape and quantity between test pieces de-values the results. Are there any other test like this for these products done more precisely? (Still a thumbs up because you bothered doing it and posting the results.)
i used quick stell for a cracked header that was leaking fumes still holding after a year but mine came in a small tub no mixing just stir and apply its rock solid
Nice - for a very limited, largely unique and very narrow application situation that really does not help 95% of people. Title this something like "I experimented with various glues on the heads of 3" 3/8th bolt heads for adhesion with weights attached to their far ends parallel to earth for shear failure at 90 degrees to their axis." Then this experiment makes a little sense to other people. Thanks for the show.
This test is really a Moot test ! It only tests ONE application (which is sheer strength) out of hundreds that each individual epoxy was designed for, because each of those epoxy's were designed w/a different "Favorable intent" and "best and/or strongest characteristic" than one another ! EXAMPLE: I need a high-temp steel filler (Like the "Quick-Steel") that can & will fill a "cast" void (A very small chip that broke off of a V-Twin engine) and be oil resist at up to 400 degrees constant. So I need a strong "Filler", rather than an strong "Adhesive". At any rate...Good job guys. At least someone is testing ! Thank you ! Keep up the good work.
