Durham's Water Putty is fabulous! I'm an artist and made several life size heads using this material. All needed some sanding, that is tough, but the heads are solid.
My dad used this all the time and now this is my go-to. May not be AS good as Bondo, but for the price you can't beat it! Been using it for years now and always have a can on hand
Yep, excellent product, and I've used it for about 20 years. I normally hit it with 60 grit on a random orbital sander after it dries and never had a problem with it being too hard to get smooth.
I hear you. I worked in carpentry for years, and one of the first jobs I did for a friend when I finished my apprenticeship was to repair a rotted jam and put in a screen door. I ran into her about thirty years later and she told me, her kids were grown and gone, her husband died, and her door was just as strong as the day I put it up. This stuff is great!!
I'v used it for 30 years and yes it's hard to sand compared to other products but I started using an orbital sander and it takes seconds to get a nice finish ready for painting.
That stuff is awesome I used it on my 71 C10 now ain't no show truck, but I had some cancer on the corner panel scraped all that cancer out cleaned it up sanded it primed it put some rock hard in it, smooth it out the best I can, and it came out awesome.
I used this today. I am making a pantry with mostly salvaged boards and some purchased bead board. I had to fill in spaced etc. Also the boards had defects do I made due with this product. I found it hardened quick. So I had to works fast. The half finished Project so far is looking very promising. As I worked with the putty..I realized that the excess had to be removed. I used so plastic tools ..went great hard to explain.
I didn't realize they still made that. Going to look in my area, I have silicone molds to make replacement edging for my cabinet. Going to try this instead of resin that has a chance to crack again.
Guys! Mostly Guys!! Watch the video, read a comment or two. It is NOT for outside use, doesn't take a nail well or stain, not made for around water. And hardens within minutes.
Used this in the 90's ad a back up to fix all when i did termite to patch posts on gates , good stuff and your right does not sand, so don't even try it, kind of like fix all used to be unsandable .
Thanks. I've used this stuff occasionally and like it. QUESTION: I have a door threshold that needs to be moved under 1/2". I'm needing a product that can fill the concrete screw holes and be able to withstand drilling right next to it. Do you think Durham's would work?
I used this to fill a large hole on my rotted corner fascia then topped it of with PC Woody. They said it's not for external use. Took as much of the rot out and applied wood hardener/petrified. I hope it holds up.
Another detail is that it can be colored with acrylic paint. I had a natural big wormhole in a mahogany panel. Putty from a can was harder than the wood so it was shinier after fine sanding Dug it out and used water Putty mixed with flat black paint. Perfect. Did not draw the eye.
Love this putty; I use it a lot. Any ideas how to efficiently un-cake it (other than the usual hacking/ scraping with a screwdriver and mortar & pestling (which works very well just takes long)? I already have several new and un-caked cans- I just wanna use the other ones.
Certain products lose some integrity after they’ve been on the shelf for a long time. Considering the economical cost of this product I would be purchasing a new can every 3 to 5 years before I would be trying to save an old one.
Whenever I hear a dollar amount on a RU-vid video, I have to scroll down to see when it was made. This is 2024 and this video was made 4 years ago. There is no longer any such thing as a $2 product. Because of our 2% inflation, it's now $9. The lesson is, if there's anything you think you might need in the future, buying it now will be an excellent investment. I have a gouge in a new butcher block countertop, caused by a slip of the router, and I've been checking out my options for fixing this - sawdust and glue, hot melt wood repair and now this product. It's cheap enough to practice until I have some confidence. Thanks for the instruction.
Wth? Never heard of it but man does that stuff dry hard. I also like that it doesn’t shrink. Depending on the job it could be used to fill in large holes that need stability but leave a slight dip then use wood putty or another filler.
I would definitely prime and paint this product before subjecting it to weather. Issue may be more with the wood around the filler, shrinking and expanding than the filler itself.
I fix, stripped out old cabinet, screw holes with a thin coating of two-part epoxy. The kind that comes in syringes so it’s about the viscosity of molasses. I coat the holes using a little of the epoxy on the end of a toothpick and I do it a couple of times and let it dry. Come back tomorrow and run the screw into that epoxy reduced hole in the screw. Grabs like crazy. wooden filler tends to be brittle and cracks away and doesn’t do the job.
Yes, but the putty can be a little brittle and not be very strong. I use 2-part epoxy to coat stripped holes in wood and let it dry and then re-install the screw.
Careful about using this to fill knots in deck rails. Oil base stain will not adhere to product. So if you are staining a redwood deck with a redwood color semi-transparant stain, stain will not cover the off-white Durhams.
Paint some oil-based primer deep into the crack to keep moisture out of there and once dry caulk w/a polyurethane type caulking. If you want it more perfect us exterior Bondo made for wood. $$
It will depend on how moist and how dry that area gets. Extremes changes in humidity causes the wood to shrink and contract and this product is not flexible in the least. No matter what, I always pre-prime before I put any filler or caulking in any exterior surfaces of my house. Pre-priming gives the caulking or the filler a more sound surface to adhere to as opposed to filler or caulking going against old dried up gray wood. I would use caulking whatever I can because it’s flexible and once it’s painted it should be hardly noticeable, larger gaps I would think about using exterior Bondo wood filler.
If you need the surface to be flush, you’ll either have to use a rasp or a belt sander. Some thing that will remove the hard putty, but not remove so much the softer wood around it.
I used this product on an antique bed I was rehabbing. The side rail brackets on the headboard and footboard were inset in the legs of the bed. Unfortunately one of the brackets broke and that’s when I watched this video and was able to fill the empty space. But here is my dilemma… I will need to apply new brackets that will hold a standard bed frame instead of the original side rails. Can I put bolts through this product and would it support the mattress and a person or 2?
This stuff is amazing. But like he says, don't leave it "proud" because it is difficult to sand. Ultimately had to use an angle grinder. It's good for fascia board repairs, especially termite tunnels and cracks. You can mix it to whatever consistency you like. Just scrape as much as you can off the surface, otherwise you will have an uneven bump to sand away and it's not easy.
It’s fast, too fast for many. Five minutes or less and 10 to 15 minutes for full hardness. Most amateurs waste half of what they mix because they make more than they can install before it does get hard.
A belt sander or disk sander when controlled directly to the filler with little or no contact to surrounding wood works well except it requires some skill or the wood around the filler can be easily gouged.
@@MrHardware1 I always used matches to fill screw holes. I dip them in wood glue, hammer them in, then hit them with the hammer to break them off and keep adding matches until I can’t fit more. Works great! I have used toothpicks if I didn’t have matches. Once I needed to hang something on a concrete wall, but didn’t have the right size plug, so I decided to try using matches instead and found out that it works great for that too! 🤗
I don’t recommend using it for exterior. But if I was I would pre-primed the wood area with thinned down oil base primer with some additional linseed oil added. Then after I applied the water putty I would then prime again with the diluted oil base exterior primer once maybe twice to penetrate and seal that area down.
@@MrHardware1 i have to screw a table leg into a 2" deep x 1½" width cavity that got blown out from misuse. Its a ikea table so its not solid wood. You still believe one of those is best to fill the cavity so i can screw the leg back in it?
@@KLartrandM if I thought it was necessary, I would take one of those syringed type epoxies that are slow curing like Devcons 2 Ton Epoxy and I would pre-coat the crumbling wood with that first to stabilize the base. The paste epoxy might not penetrate deep enough into the crumbling wood to get a good bond. Then I would use the PC woody or any other paste epoxy, almost all of them say they’re drillable, and then I would fill the hole with that and pre-drill and reinsert the leg.
Yes, you can. Read what I did below with excellent results: I filled a bunch of cracks on poured concrete roman pillars and their cracked bases and it worked very well, which was a god-send. For 20 years, these pillars would develop cracks, and I would repair them with flexible caulking or other 'crack fillers' and they would look good for a while and then crack again. Last fall, I was looking at the newly expanded cracks and shook my head at them, knowing it was a losing battle. But then, in my garage I spied this product that I had bought years ago. I decided to try it on these tenacious cracks. I mixed up a small amount of Durham's with water until a wet putty stage. I used a soft silicone kitchen spatula to scoop it and spread it into the cracks. Then I used a small piece of smooth car wax-type sponge that I had placed in a bucket of clean water. Squeezing the water out of the sponge, I lightly wiped over the cracks and it easily removed any excess Durham's compound. It dried quickly and within hours I had it painted and the pillars and bases looked like new! What a great product that works on many things besides wood.
Very true. Just a cap or two of white vinegar-I just use the shallow lids of the vinegar jug and dump them in. Gives you an extra minute or two of working time.
Love be the video. I just got a new exterior door and frame. I need to cover the screw holes on the door frame on the outside. Can I use gel stain on it ? Wanted to stain my door like a maple color. Thanks sir
I can’t say, I have always do use this product for inside and dry repairs. Depending on the application there is a lot of other products I would use if I needed to waterproof a particular repair.
Not really, use an exterior Bondo type of filler, something flexible and w more ‘glue’ in it. This is so hard and won’t expand and contract as humidity causes the wood around it to swell and shrink.
Can this be used to repair where my counter is cut out too big for the sink and the water is starting to rot it, so that I can replace the sink without replacing the entire counter? Thanks! TRied to explain the best I could.
@@honkymonkey9568 Did more research. It seems this putty is not good for exterior use. Some said the putty would fall out, meaning the adhesion to other materials is not great. For weather proofing, the 2 part epoxy fillers will likely to be the best option. Same technique with nails applies to them.
Mr. Hardware OK THANKS. I HEARD OF WET STOP CEMENT THAT IS GOOD FOR LEAKS. I WANTED TO TRY IT ON MY BATHROOM WALL TO PATCH BY THE CEILING. THE THING IS THAT WALL NEVER HAD ANY WATER DAMAGE, NO MOISTURE...NOTHING UNTIL I TOLD THE SUPER TO HAMMER A HOLE TO CHECK FOR LEAKS THAT MOISTEN MY CEILING BY THE WALL. HE DID, CHECKED THROUGH THE HOLE WITH A CAMERA...NO LEAKS WERE FOUND. HE WANTED TO USE A WOOD TO COVER THE HOLE, BUT TOLD HIM NO THAT I HAD A MASH WALL TAPE I WILL USE WITH PLASTER TO PATCH THE HOLE SINCE HE DIDN’T FIND ANY LEAKS. LORD BEHOLD, WATER LEAKED A LITTLE, BUT MAINLY MOISTENED THAT AREA. I LIVE IN A OLD APARTMENT BUILDING AND THIS LANDLORD IS A SLUMLORD. WELL, I WILL UNPATCH THAT AREA TO FILL IT WITH CEMENT WHEN GIVEN A CHANCE. 🤷🏾♀️
Here's the secret. It may have been mentioned before. As you apply it, wipe high spots with a wet rag. No sanding needed. You can always add more if you wipe away too much.
I am very disappointed by the performance of this product. I do not know what Mr. Hardware is talking about. I used it on interior window casings and it failed miserably. I had cleaned and sanded them and left exposed for 2 months, since I moved to work on another parts of the house. I found his filler cracked and peeled off. Had I painted it, even more of my work would go to waste.
