Heck yeah it's the best😊 I've got a 1958 US "Export" model serviced by Karl Bryan, the last factory trained Autocord specialist in the US. He had quite a few insights into the various models. I found it interesting he strongly prefers the Seikosha shutter models. He also replaced the focus arm, since that is the one weakness with all Autocords. I think the Ricohmatic 225 is every bit as nice, but unfortunately they're just not reliable and they're a pita to work on. Great video sir! Next up - I'd love to see you cover the Fujica Flash Zoom , Revue Zoom Flash. That camera was apparently relatively expensive, was a rangefinder style, yet had a push/pull zoom😅 I have to expect the viewfinder on it is very different.
I have the 1958 lightmeter version (that works perfectly accurate today) and the focusing knob is broken and hurts when using it (literally), but man, the photos that come out of this gem are exceptionally sharp and contrasty and it's a pleasure to use! I somehow find using a TLR more cumbersome than a SLR for instance but miles nicer than a rangefinder (but it depends). Thank you for reviewing this! ❤
Mamiya C220f in my opinion. Little bulky, but it’s lightweight in comparison to the C330 and also has an amazing feature. Different lenses can be adapted to it. From wide angle to telephotos. That alone makes the Mamiya TLRs the best Japanese TLRs in my opinion!
One of the historical problems with the Autocord was that the focusing knob on the front-bottom could be broken off if left in some position and the camera fell forward on it. The specific problem was that the tab connecting the knob to the focusing helicoil was made of the same pot metal discussed in the video, and it was/is very brittle. In later years, Minolta used a higher grade of metal in that lever arm. At one point, they used spring steel so it would flex. For many years, cameras with focus knobs broken off were just parts waiting to be salvaged. However, some years ago, one or more people started manufacturing replacement lever arms to repair the problem, selling them on eBay.
I love my Autocord! I have one that has been CLA'd by Karl Bryan and had a new skin put on that I love to use and another that I'll have the same done to eventually. One tip I learned when loading film is to ensure the focusing lever is fully at either side, the closest distance, or infinity. If you leave the focusing lever in the middle, which is about 6 or 7 feet, it's possible for the back to swing far enough forward to contact and damage the focusing lever and we all know the issues with the focusing levers breaking.
Excellent as per your usual videos, history, description and usage, along with hints and tips all very well presented giving a rounded idea of what the item will achieve.
Thanks for posting these videos. I just found your channel yesterday by watching a Graflex video (which looks very similar to my dad's old Tower Press Camera) - and today's video is on the exact TLR of his that I used to use as a kid on our photo walks together. You're giving me inspiration to tune-up and use again some of these old cameras. Thanks!!
Interesting that the taking lens is labeled as a Minolta. These early Autocords had the lenses labeled Chiyoka Rokkor for the first few years. Someone did a swap. The brighter focusing is also due to the plastic fresnel installed under the ground glass. Great cameras. The Kalloflex had the potential to be better made but Kowa never really finished the engineering so it is a mix inside of high-level mechanisms held together by bailing wire in some places. The Autocord was less sophisticated but more consistent in design and parts finish, etc.
At a time several decades ago when I was still a total nerd, I decided to select a TLR (short of the cost of a Rolleiflex), so with my contacts in the local camera store, I was able to borrow and shoot test charts and generally try out a variety of TLRs. These included the Autocord, Rolleiflex with Tessar, Rollicord with Xenar, Diacord, Yashicmat 124G(like new condition). and one or two others. The Autocord was clearly superior in terms of on film optical performance. The Yashicamat was the poorest, and by a sizable margin. After the Autocord, the two Rolleis were the same performance and slightly less optically than the Autocord. The Ricoh Diacord was a bit less resolution than the Rolleis, but quite acceptable in practical use. The Yashicamat was a dog by any definition. It got usefully sharp around f 5.6 - 11, but useless for critical photography otherwise. So what did I end up keeping? I kept several Autocords for use or resale after some repairs, but the selection, which I treasure, is a Kalloflex from the mid-1950s. Clever design; highest quality build (Rolleiflex quality), and a terrific Tessar copy for a lens.
@@slow.poetry Oh, yes! I haven't personally tested this comparison, but I think it is safe to say that the Rolleiflex with a 75mm 3.5 Planar is the optically best TLR ever made, and it is as good as any other TLR mechanically. On the other hand, the best TLRs with 4-element Tessar copies will be a "can't tell the difference" situation at their optimum apertures when making real prints rather than optical tests. If you are dying for a TLR, find the best Autocord available at a rational price and live with it. I got a few good TLRs back in the early 1990s, when film was declared dead, and film cameras were selling for pennies. I do not think I'd pay today's prices for most of the cameras I then acquired. (When I made the tests noted in my comment above, I did include a Rolleiflex with a Planar 3.5, which I was nearly ready to buy. However, its imaging was so out of focus that I dropped all interest in it. The seller was a counterman in the local camera store, where I hung out to recharge sometimes during the day - a friend. I never found out where he acquired the Rollei, but he was big pissed. I concluded that someone had opened the front cover and messed with the alignment of focus lens to taking lens, but it alternatively, it could have taken a hit so hard as to dislodge the reflex mirror. Either way, I wasn't going to pay close to full price for a damaged TLR with unknown pedigree.)
Actually, what is best at the Autocords are their accessories. The parallax corrector or the polarization filter holder are very helpful, and fortunately work on other baj 1 cameras as well.
Hi ! I was told befrore to avoid letting the camera in my car during hot summer days since the optics (the thin antireflective film deposited o the two lens surface may be affected). Thanx for sharing.
Have you ever had a "skipping frame" issue with this type of camera? I have a Seagull with an automatic rewinder, and It "eats" frames. Do you know how to fix it. I can't find anything on the net on how to deal with it, except that ppl also have the same problems, even with the FUJIFILM GW690 III.
Hi, I just watched few of your videos, thank you for great content. Do you mind share what iPhone app you're using for light meter? I forgot to take handheld one today and it would be a great help to use phone as lightmeter.
The 124 is a better camera provided you find one with a clean taking lens. Many 124 cameras have haze issues. But the 124 does have a better shutter and viewfinder.