I wasn't a believer in flushs/cleaners either. But people with newer engines with sludged up oil control rings and drain back holes may have to reconsider that stance.
In that case: an isolated piston soak is more fitting. I have done this for friends/customers vehicles with great success. You are correct on newer engines & low tension rings, easily getting stuck burning oil excessively.
@@SamslamminCarshey I do this too!! I run about a 1/3 qt. of flush oil through after draining the old oil. I probably don’t HAVE TO do it, but I feel better doing it. When I run the flush through, I still get dirtier oil out.
after 3 minutes most of the oil that can be drained is out. If you wait several hours you will collect no more than half a cup of oil, that has marginal effect on the quality. Do the test so we can see how much oil can you extract after 3 minutes. yes there is going to be like 5% left in the engine after draining it for an arbitrary amount of time and if you could drain that you would then need to re-prime the engine. new oil plus 5% old oil is not a problem, the old oil shouldn’t even be that bad taking into account the car ran perfectly fine before the oil change.
Misnomer here. Running clean through to rinse out the old doesn't "rinse out the block". It doesn't get near the cam, even in an overhead engine, it doesn't get near the cylinder walls, it doesn't get 90+% of the interior of the block... What it WILL do is wash out the few ounces of oil in the bottom of the pan... Oil goes in at the fill point, runs down the head to the nearest oil return gallery, straight into the oil pan. In the case of a V engine, the oil only runs down a single head. If you're needing to flush out a block to clear carbon out... the engine's already screwed. *MAJOR EDIT:* I've not changed a thing about my statements, but I am at least going to explain the thinking behind this and how to actually gain the effect. *When & Why:* mid 40s - late 50s engines would slowly digest themselves during operation. Most of the point of an "Oil Change" as opposed to simply replacing the filter was to remove metal filings from the lubrication system. These filings would cut through filter media, destroying the filter, and causing additional damage as they were sent back into the engine as "oil". What folks would do, is wash out the last few ounces of oil from the pan to rinse out as much debris as possible, extending the longevity of the car by *protecting the oil filter.* *How & Why it is done IRL:* As to the how: you use a bore-scope and an oil wand. A Bore-scope being a small camera on the end of a flexible tube / wire / probe. Most will have a 3x4 inch color display screen. It essentially let's you take your eyes out of your head and put them inside an assembled engine. An oil wand being a relatively thin metal tube plugged off at the end with a slit in its side. This connects via a hose to an heated oil tank with a pump and filter. Normally there will also be a catch pan and return hose going back to the tank. The pump causes a fan of warm oil to squirt out of the slit in the side of the tube, which then drains out and is returned to the tank. The process involves removing at least the valve covers, sometimes the spark plugs as well, but the idea is to go in through the oil return galleries and literally pressure wash the inside of the engine with oil. Now the why: Something failed. Camshaft lobe cracked / lifter stuck / slap - ping / timing chain broke... literally dozens of reasons to want to wash down the inside of an engine. A bore-scope on its own will let you look around and see how crazy you need to get, and the oil wand will push out whatever you find that shouldn't be there. It will also give you a chance to assess the expected plausibility of a successful outcome. (If an engine has filled itself with metal powder, you're just not gonna save that one...) In some cases, replacing the engine is less expensive than doing the labor to save one. In other cases, that's not an option. For the record, the way I've come by this information was hands on experience keeping WW2 Bi-Planes in operation for dusting crops, and in doing many MANY antique restoration builds. You don't just pop down to Autozone or NAPA to pick up a replacement head for a 1928 Ford or a set of pistons for a 1925 Duesenberg. (At least you can still scratch make the gaskets :D )
All I am trying to replace, the residual in the oil pan is the most but you are correct. Only running down 10% of the internals at best and not cleaning anything.
@@mithras223 except it wasn't a misconception... and the way the video was presented, the statement at 1:35 to 1:42 is "It's going to run down the top end, and run down the sidewalls and everything of the block"... A misnomer being a commonly believed inaccuracy. Like: "Pregnant women all get sick in the mornings". A misconception would be something like "The moon is made of cheese" So when I'm looking at a boxer engine, and dude's trying to tell me that oil added to the side of the valve cover is going to somehow wash the block down... Misconception being incorrect conclusions based on faulty information. Misnomer being a piece of faulty information that is commonly believed as true being applied generally to a thing. Hence I typed up the step by step section in my original comment. This process that the guy is doing *IS* what was thought to be the way to wash out your engine, right up until about 1962. Thing is, the "trick" has been handed down for generations and it no longer applies to most vehicles. To the best of my knowledge, the source of this "trick" was machine shops where they would flush oil through a block they had just machined to get out remaining particles, and fellas just started "giving it a try" in the driveway. Old engines did indeed have different alloys and tolerances, and as a side effect, washing down the pan DID remove filings and some additional carbon buildup.
I had a teacher that would drain the oil, fill with diesel and start and run for a few seconds and drain the diesel out and refill with oil. He had a 1970s ford pickup that still ran great!
The most important step in doing any oil change is to drain oil when hot immediately as soon as possible after shutting off the engine. Never drain oil from a cold engine.
@@SamslamminCars it has been shown that you actually get more out of the engine when the oil is less viscous when it is hot. And most importantly all of the contaminants are suspended in the oil rather than having settled at the bottom of your oil pan and every other crevice like the head. When the oil is hot and flowing throughout the engine all of the sediment is suspended in the oil. Draining when cold doesn’t get all of that dirt and sludge out that has had time to separate and get stuck and remain inside the engine.
@@mikerobinson8734”it has been shown” dude its kot that big of a difference to actually matter 😂 theres so much stuff that has been shown that really is just to help you sleep at night. “It has been shown” that doing it while the engine is cold doesnt matter and cars still run which is what you want after an oil change
From my experience at a quick lube we would look in the service bulletin to see how long to drain it, but a subaru isn’t going to be crazy you will have changed nearly 100% of the oil in a 15 minute service. however this isn’t the case for all cars and is definitely recommended for a performance car because generally they do have longer drain times and we would run the full drain down time if we weren’t busy but sometimes a 30 minute drain down on a porsche is too long and hurts the flow of the shop. Generally though this is a great idea to save money if you can commit to doing several oil changes yourself, and gets people to understand cars which is definitely not a bad thing; I saw some teenagers trying to put canola oil in dads brand new land rover.
I don’t understand why it would be an issue. Just charge the customer for the additional time required. If you can afford a Porsche than you can afford the added shop time to do it right.
@@mikerobinson8734Mostly because it was a fast service, we didn’t want to keep you waiting, and a lot of people think there getting scammed already when they pay 50$ for an oil change that used to cost 20 in their time so adding a drain down time fee is a certain recipe for some unhappy customers, additionally I have changed the oil on my own cayenne turbo and I can tell you that 99% of the oil is out in 10 minutes let alone 30
What most people are paying for at an oil change shop is the receipt, for the warranty... fuel / oil additives are add-on sales for the service center, and in some cases will void a warranty. I'm not saying the additives are good or bad, I'm simply saying that they aren't required according to the manufacturer. A lot of common folks have the skills needed to do perform an oil change, there are still plenty out there that don't too. Personally I find the best method to do an oil change is on time and correctly. After that it becomes vehicle / skill level specific.
I used to do this for my own vehicle for a long time because I already spent money on fancy synthetic oil, another "sacrificial" quart to get every last bit of oil out isn't that big of a deal. Truth is, it's more of a "makes you feel better" more than anything else; some vehicles will have specific drain procedures (i.e. most are "run engine to operating temp for 2-10min, drain hot until oil barely drips out, etc.). Though generally you can get away with just being "quick" about it with no real harm to the vehicle. That being said, if you wanted to get "every last drop of the bad stuff" out of the vehicle... you'd want to do something ridiculous like: -Run a can of Seafoam or similar chemical anywhere from 10-100mi (they tell you on the back of the can) prior to the oil change. -Bring the car up to operating temp for at least 10min or more to get the now thinner oil (most of those products thin the oil with a little bit of glorified paint thinner/kerosene/detergents to help break down some sludge) circulated, splashed, and soaking everything in the engine. -Drain as much of the engine oil when hot as possible. -Slap a new oil filter, fill vehicle with fresh oil. -Bring vehicle up to operating temp again, run for another 10min or more -Let vehicle sit for roughly 1-2days if not more to let as much possible oil drain out of the passages, lifters/rockers, heads, etc. into the oil pan (even though there are anti-drain back valves and such in the filter, oil pump, and certain sections of the engine, it will mostly all drain out eventually; hence why even on a new car you may here a brief chain slap/rattle on start up after sitting a few days or so) -Drain as much oil out of the vehicle as possible again -Remove at least the lower oil pan (some vehicles barely let you get the lower oil pan out without a hassle, let along both the upper and lower!), as it can hold anywhere from a quarter of a quart to over a quart of oil AFTER you've let every last little drip of out of the drain plug hole. -Scrub that oil pan to hell and back, toss a magnet or two in there if you feel really paranoid (not that it will be as useful in an engine oil pan as it would be in a transmission pan) -Reinstall the oil pan, install a new filter -Re-fill with fresh oil. -Ridiculously over-thought out oil change performed! ~ No, I'm only half joking with the above; that would pretty much get something like 98~99% of the oil (you'll sill have pockets in the heads, nooks, crannies, and oil film) out of the engine itself. You're welcome to be that exacting and neurotic in getting as much of the old oil out as you can; but realistically, that last little bit of oil isn't going to make a significant difference (if it did, you're engine already came apart or will need to soon if you catch my drift.) Even the "Sacrificial Quart" I used was more for making me feel better than it was for actually flushing the bottom of the oil pan out; by the time the oil drips through the engine, it's lost a lot of momentum and with the drain plug out it's barely mixing with that residual oil in the pan; it just mostly slides off the top only mixing with a little bit of it before going right out the drain hole. At the end of the day, a "hot drain" for most vehicles while waiting until it's barely dribbling out of the drain plug hole is the best way to get an oil change done. Some vehicles may have special procedures, but as a general rule it's fine. I'll do a "cold drain" on vehicles I am planning on tearing apart because usually they've been on the rack already for a bit and I do want to get as much of the fluids out as possible before cracking it open. -Some monkey with a scantool banging on your Toyota somewhere near you
This is what I thought when I saw this video. Im never going to go to that length to clean out the old oil (probably because I have an old toyota that keeps on ticking with regular oil changes)
I bet if you wanted to clean it out even better then right after your oil change run it for several minutes then drain it again and put fresh oil back into it. Of course that costs more money.
This engine was not very dirty but for neglected engines. I recommend using seafoam with cheap oil or using some transmission fluid if n/a. Get it to running temperature for a while then change it out.
Yes. But you do want more volume of fresh oil so it goes into more places with higher speed. I put 0.5 - 0.75 quart of oil, quickly all at once, or in 2 applications and wait til barely dripping.
