Best Modifications To Improve Your Diesel Heater - improve Performance  

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A British fellow educating a rebel American about a Chinese product. Love it and thanks, bud.

Hi Mick the filter wants to be on the tank feed side not the pressure side and fitting the right way round 😉

Always put a filter between the fuel tank and the pump to filter fuel before it goes into pump.

Very informative video. Been running the same unit in my aquarium shed 18 months. Works a treat. I did try the rap on the exhaust, didn't like it much . Went a a cheap marine exhaust off Amazon. It is doubled skinned so the hose never touches the shed walls. Great when you have a wooden shed .

Yep. Reverse the fuel filter. You want to be able to see the sediment collecting on the outside of the filter screen so you know when to change it. Great set of mods - right out of the box.

Man these things are impressive. The heat output is amazing and when hot it doesn't care what fuels you feed it. The maintenance is so easy. I'm so glad they are being sold

I have been running one of these under the stairs in our cottage (exhaust and tank outside) for about 4 years now. In the first 2 winters i had problems with it sooting up and failing, after many strip downs and cleans i have now mastered it! It has run both the last 2 winters with no issues and better heat/economy. The mods that worked to achieve this was to drill a second air hole into the gauze chamber at 90 degree to the original and pinch the end of the gauze down at 4 points with pliers to make it a snug fit around the tip of the glow plug. On reasembly ensure the internal fan is running as close to the casting surface as is possible! any gap and the air flow through the burner is massively reduced. I have just bought a second one for my workshop which went straight into service as it came out of the box. I have set the pump and fan parameters the same but it doesnt perform as well, it will be getting the same treatment very soon!

I’ve had one for about 3 years On my boat Mick. Never had a problem with it. Got another last year for my Garage totally recommend them. I’m not sure if your power pack will give out the Watts they need when powering up. Also mate, you put the inline filter the wrong way round. I know it seems right the way you’ve done it, but soz. Enjoy the warmth. 👍

Very cool video but just got to say don't waste your money on power supplies. You can pick them up cheap off eBay and probably run more efficient. I'm currently using an Xbox 360 power supply very efficient works well or you can buy old server power supplies both of them you have to modify slightly just to get them to turn on as seen on RU-vid very easy. Pick these up for 5 to 10 quid Very reliable

Try fitting some LED light strip (12 v) in the fuel tank bay . Makes it very easy to check the fuel level.

Watching everyone leave the fuel tank in and the complain there's not much room to work in is my favorite part of these videos 😂 ever think that the hose clamp is left loose on purpose, to remove the tank during first set up.

Holy cow! I've got 2 heaters that I've been unable to get to fire. I think the fuel lines may have been the issue, so I ordered a kit. If that works, you will be my hero.

Surely you would have the diesel filter before the pump. Not wanting to get sediment (crap) running through it. Mounted my filter external on the heater housing, behind the pump. Secondly easy access to clean filter and you can see when it’s due a clean.

Nice video thanks. If you connect the filter BEFORE the pump you will protect the pump from debris

I have the same unit. It works fine, except after running for a while there is a heavy, acrid, burning plastic smell from it. I have traced this to the base gasket. Now replaced with a genuine Webasto base gasket. Smell now gone. Not sure if this problem affects all of these heaters, but I would recommend changing the terrible OEM gasket or just remove it. It's a lot easier to do before you've filled up the tank with diesel!

Prices went up I think because of the extreme cold weather that almost all of the US got hit with. Power outages etc got lot of attention to alternative heating. I pulled the trigger on a 8kw (vendor had 750 and sold out in a week)and got it running as the temps took a nose dive and used it to heat little over 650 sq foot to a reasonable 68+ for 3 days. Buying another smaller one to burn on a higher heat setting to prevent coking but probably not really issue if burn a bit of kerosene with burn additive once in a while

Mick,that is one of your best videos ever in my opinion!I was captivated the whole time. Plus you prevented a fire hazard I think with that shotty plumbing!

Hey Mick. I just purchased one of these and I certainly can see how bad that fuel line is. Thanks for this great upgrade video ! I will do this in the next week. Cheers from Canada

Thanks. Others may have mentioned it, but the fuel filter should be b4 the pump.

nice, can't wait to see it working.

Fuel filter should be before the pump not after it as you have done.

The only mod I did was replace the fuel line and add filter. Filter on suction side. Also real hose clamps. Plus I never leave it running unattended.

These heaters don't have an atomizing nozzle like a normal diesel burner. Instead it has a stainless steel screen that a jet squirts fuel at, the fuel is splattered through the screen and the turbulence of the combustion chamber oxygenates it thoroughly. This is why a filter is not necessary, because the jet orifice is bigger that most contaminant particles. But it's still a good idea to include one, I did on all mine. Because of the fuel squirting through screen design, it is extremely important that the fuel hit the screen at maximum velocity. A resilient pressure tube or trapped air will absorb the pump's pulsations and cause poor fuel vaporization and foul your combustion chamber after a season of use. No ignition and lots of white diesel vapor is all you get. Repair or modify the fuel feed to solve the problem that caused the fouling. You can also get fouling from poor glow plug voltage. After several abortive startups there's so much carbon in the combustion chamber that even if you fix the problem that caused it, still no ignition. And with every failed ignition if fouls the chamber even more. High elevation running aggravates the problem too. Fortunately you don't need to take it all apart to clean out the combustion chamber. Instead, take off the intake tube and use a propane torch to preheat up inside the port. I have even used a butane torch in a pinch. After some fiddling around you will eventually get ignition and a lot of black smoke. Run that thing good and hot to burn out the chamber thoroughly. Take care of your environment because a whole lot of soot will blow out when it fires up! I bought a Vevor unit that was built defective from the factory, I had to modify the fuel tubes and install bigger wiring to make it work as expected.

Brilliant video Mick, lot’s of opinions in my comments regarding needing a battery back up but I haven’t bothered, a bit of a fast shut down doesn’t seem to bother mine after experimenting , starts straight back up no problem. Thanks for the mention you won’t regret buying it, i find they are a bit noisy when videoing but Martin doesn’t seem to, great video. Typing as I watch, my pump came with hard fuel line, much better

Your modifications were well thought out, good job Mick. On my trailer the supplied flex exhaust pipe was to short, so I purchased a length of rigid exhaust pipe and slid the flex into it for length extension. Never heard the name jubilee clamp before, we just call them hose clamps, or gear clamps. Merry Christmas from frigid Canada.

Great video, very informative. However the filter needs to go before the pump and your filter inlet is on the other side (currently flow is in the wrong direction). How effective is the exhaust tape? Is it safe to put through untreated wood?

Thanks for the video, I had to change my glow plug so I decided to buy the update kit and do the update modifications

Some well needed modifications to that diesel ⛽ heater mate 👍

Hey Mick! that's for your 'tips n tricks' 👍 That tower model looks easier to service. I ended up getting the 'cube' model. Also, I have installed (attached) an HOUR meter! (by vibration) and there's not a lot vibrating on low power! Also, I am going to do away with the cable at the back and install Terminals. (there are 2 holes already there to accomadate this), the power cable comes out one of the holes. That way there is no power cable dangling from the unit. Would have been good if the clock had a battery back up, but I think they thought the unit will most likely be in 'Standby' state anyway. Make sure I get the 'CREDS' for my AWESOME idea/s! Keep in touch... Mick from Australia

Good information! I also padded my fuel pump with some insulation and can't even hear it once the unit is running. I'm trying to make a coil out of a longer exhaust tubing and putting it inside a piece of 6" stove pipe then blowing air thru it with a small fan,. That should capture me more heat and make the system more efficient.

Why not use the exhaust heat to add to the sho heat ?

You installed the filter backwards and on the wrong side of the pump.

Mick YOU installed the FILTER BACKWARDS😳

Nic job Mick 👍 Far less scary now!! Just found your channel. I’m over the pond and in Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦 Keep up the knowledge. I appreciate! 👍

oooh !, although the pump should be after filter there's a slight fault in the way you have installed the filter, as every engineer will know air pockets can compress so eliminating the pulse , you need to mount the filter in a vertical orientation and have the exit at the top so any air will be bled out automatically , the pump is a metering device to measure the amount in a pulse format , not designed to suck , better to mount the pump below the tank so it's not wasting energy trying to pull the fuel into it, there is no flow when it's not energized . also when they say at least 45 degree thats from the horizontal , they work much better in the vertical as no air bubbles will get trapped as long as the exit is at the top, i'm an ex RAF engineer , best training you can get and get paid for it.

I drilled a hole in the bottom and fitted a grommet for the fuel line to rest against, then a couple of small plastic ties to hold it there. If you''re any good with a soldering iron extend the panel display wiring and again use a grommet to feed through the side chassis .

I never did any Modifications To Improve my Diesel Heater . It works already 3 years without any problem with red diesel. Frends who made Modifications To Improve their Diesel Heater has always problems. Keep your hands off. Thats the best way to have no problems .

Good video, they work well, I just did a 5 year review on mine.

I was going to post a comment taking the mickey out of your table cloth but... That's the most informative and well put together video on these heaters I've found to date. You should persuade the wife to give you some space and get a studio sorted because your presentation skills are great. First video of yours I've watched and no idea what you do but ive hit the sub button to find out

Yeah, I also keep the foam packaging, helps protect those battery packs. 👍

If your pump stops working you can remove it an strike it against a board to free it up. Mine stopped pumping and it worked for me, mave have been some sediment clogging it, after about 30 whacks on a 2x6 leaving indentation in the wood it left a drop of fuel with each strike which was an indication that it was clear.

Goodness freakin gracious....Jimminy tinkering cricket....

you take out the fexhose and put a filter with and airbubble in stead good idea

Fire it up, fire it up!

ive got 2 8kw heaters similar to yours henry is right there isn't much difference between 3/5/8kw i have got the mod kit but i have not fitted them yet but i must say they can use a ltr fuel every 2.1/2 hours when flat out

I use the green crap. Works for me in New England.

Just got one of these, all the cheap thin lines kinked. I had one of the diy units years back with the solid nylon tube. Looks like I'll be back on ebay. Thanks great demo.😎👍 Subbed

Mmm, without going into Bernoulli’s Equation from a science pov there's nowhere near enough pressure generated in the pipe when it's pushing 0.02ml per impulse to make it flex chap, certainly as that pressure is divisible by its length . just saying... By all means if the pipe is likely to deteriorate then yeah I see the value in swapping it.. main thing to me would be better quality clamps.

the filter is the wrong colour, :), good vid, I watch most vids like this, get ideas from some, if people make mistakes, so what, it gets sorted out in the end ,

Once the fuel line is full there's no loss of any pressure and considering you can actually run the the heater without the pump and just gravity feed the fuel dosage with a medical drip feeder attached to the hose . Carbon Monoxide should not be an issue as your heater exhaust is going outside your garage or it should be for obvious reasons so if you connect the exhaust outlet pipe properly there is one nagging little exhaust leak at the clamp on section right next to the exhaust outlet as I found by the soot deposit where it leaked out ,I suggest a fire proof exhaust compound and a better clamp as the originals are to be honest CRAP and scrap as is the exhaust pipe but I guess for the price it's what you pay for. Cheers Mate

40 minutes I'll never get back 😂

good job /thanks much

Hi Mick maybe some viewer can chip in with a source of a good quality heatwrap tape. Cheers Andrew

i did the lines on mine with copper break line way way better

Got the same housing is flimsy as fuck but they work great lol . I decided to build two of em in a old woodstove 10 kw combined . One was just a bit low for a 125 cubick meter room outside with one heater it was minus 7 celcius inside 17 degrees celcius so they work great .

Unless that green line isn't designed for use with diesel fuel, I'm failing to see any upgrade.

great that you told something about main power supply shut down and you need a backup battery

Well, that was an excellent video. Thanks for the all the modifications that you did to the unit I noticed on the fuel filter, the fuel goes into the screen, and then out to the burner reverse of how a gasoline filter would work or am I wrong. And thank you for the shout out

Why not use the black rubber fuel line exclusively? The filter is clear for seeing the fuel flow. Any reason why the white 2mm tubing must be used?

Thanks for the video.

The filter must protect the pump, not the other way around! There is nothing to protect behind the pump.

Epoxy putty for round the exhaust if it starts with fumes. Nice video mate.

nice video mick I'm sure there are many who could use your fine tips

can you buy the black fuel conector separate ,,good vid.

Great and interesting video. I thought you said you were going to cable tie the fuel tank so it didn’t move or did I dream that bit?

Hi Just watched your improvement for Heater Tube Replacement Hose Clip Fuel Filter Diesel Heater Fuel Line. Can you send me a link. The only one I can find is 2.6mm. Or would that be OK. Great video.

Brilliant Sir Mick

hi mick where can i get what you reccomend for the replacement tubes and clamps please

OMG, thankfully you know what your doing Mick😊 I was going to ask how much warranty it comes with the unit, but I guess you’ve voided the warranty anyway....😊😊😊

FYI, the pump makes no pressure, you only need to replace the fuel line because it gets old and cracks

Mick: why not just replace the whole hose with the black instead of piecing together?

Hi Mick Great video. Where did you get your heat wrap tape for the exhaust. Some of the ones on Amazon have lousy reviews, your one seems to insulate well. Cheers Andrew

good job pal

Great mod Mick top man that Martin butler look forward to the fitting you are certainly going to be nice and toasty 👍👍👍👍

Did you put exhaust paste on your pipe to stop any leaks

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So.. After some time of having the heater going in the shed, are we going to see a verdict-video?

Nice work Mick

Great video Mick

They have a fuel pump pulse damper that cuts noise by 50+ % works great.

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Why didn't you fit the plastic pipe over the fuel inlet pipe then slide the black hose over it and just use one clamp

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Nicely done, I need to put a filter on my one too, as Steve the Transit camper said, you'll hear people bang on about circuit board frying if you have a power cut without a battery back up but I know many people who have tested that and it didn't happen. I'll stick with the power supply too.

Nice video Mick, if I ever get one of these I'll know just what to do with it. 👍👊

Hii mike I have the smell of burning rubber, plastic, or smelly air outside the room, even though the machine is on the balcony... Your guidance much appreciated

£189 from amazon. Can get cheaper than that. Off ebay

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Those Chinese jubilee clips are made of toffee. Mine stripped before they got tight. I had to buy some proper ones.

Fuel filter is installed incorrectly. Needs to be installed after the tank feed. Will do no good where it is as the pump will get debris like this so no point in filtering on other side of the pump.

At the beginning of the video you said prices are £80-100, and to follow the link. Did that, and they're getting on for 200 quid!

Trying to find the link for the eBay modification kit mick? Do u have a link please? 😅

Most people install filters upstream of the pump, not downstream of the pump.

Turn the clamp away from exhaust. Use black hose all the way. Saves a lot of clamps.

Fule filter on back to front.

I would surgest you mount the pump on outside of heater and suspend it on bungee cord 5mm thick on ebay. that way you can solve 3 problems at once firstly drill a hole inline with fuel tank outet bigger than pipe so you can put something soft around fuel pipe where goes through the tin, this will solve having to tight a bend in pipe this helps to reduce the resinance of pipe on heater frame. next fit an inline fuel tap, and the filter is next then pump, but I bought a ultra quiet combo filter and pump well worth the money for a more quiet heater there are few ways to mount the pump, but what is needed is about 2 inch peice of horizontal repare plates work for me, at top of heater frame anything to tie bungee too away from the metal frame, because that is what causes a lot of the noise some people use cable ties , they still transfer some noise i think bungee is better. From pump to heater and now it does not need to go through body or touch anything othet than fuel inlet connection . i tried to put a photo of one, but RU-vid will not let me. if you want i can email some pics to help ihave a total of 5 heaters , 2 are now heating my home and saving me money on my gas bill. one more thing important i use kerosene not diesel its a lot cheaper and cleaner.

You need some strain relief on the cable as there is none at all the entire way to the ECU in the heater casing, a gland nut will sort it out.

The output on the pump- is NOT pressurized !! It can actually be DRIP fed .

Replacing the flexible fuel pipe is totally overkill. The pipe will take whatever time it needs to fill up before delivering fuel to the heater. And there's a risk that the new pump will not be exactly 0.2 mL or will not be handled as the controller is expecting it to be. I don't think this mod is necessary at all, maybe the opposite. Thermal insulation of the fuel line around the heater is quite necessary though, as well as for the air exhaust pipe over all its length, unless you have some heat exchanger around. I also zip-tied the fuel line as far away from the heater as I could. I also replaced all the water-hose clamps with real stove pipe clamps, and I'll probably replace all the pipes with better quality airtight ones. I have no idea if the current cheap exhaust pipe can withstand the extra heat caused by the insulation, or nitrous or sulfuric oxidation from the diesel exhaust corroding fumes. Also, I plan on zig-zaging the exhaust pipe inside a wall going up, to use the wall as a thermal mass and retrieve all the burning hot heat otherwise wasted in the exhaust, so I'll probably add a water collector at the bottom to redirect the water condensation outdoors and prevent corrosion in the exhaust pipe. Preventing the fuel tank from moving is also not a big deal, since the heater will be fixed on a wall, but if it's really a concern, I'd cut a sheet of insulating material and glue it to the case on both sides rather than adding metallic or wooden wedges, which may not handles high temperatures properly. Also, you should not wrap the pipe with aluminum foil, but use an insulation sleeve around the pipe or one that is already insulated. That's not the proper and maintenance-free way of doing so. I hit the same issue of course with the horribly designed exhaust pipe and the 2 small feet that require an extension because the exhaust pipe just cannot fit between the feet if you intend to have the case stand on its own rather than fix it on the wall. The feet actually need to be high enough so that the exhaust pipe is rather far away from the ground. The tiny transparent plastic pipe near the exhaust and the heater also needs its insulation sleeve regardless of how insulated the exhaust pipe is. Vevor may be a great tool brand present in the UK, France and other countries, but this specific diesel space heater is still cheap Chinese junk that does require quite substantial modding to make it safe and efficient. But at least it's doable.