The trailer looks nice, but there is a problem. The wheel chock is Place too far forward, this increases the tongue weight putting unnecessary weight on the hitch. Also that position results in a suboptimal location of the ratchet straps on the front. The front straps hooks on the floor of the trailer should be placed at about the same level of the front wheel, so when tight they apply force down and forward. Other than that congratulation, that is a nice trailer.
Hi Luis. I'm considering buying one of these trailer to haul my 2011 RKC. The tongue weight limit on my 2017 Subaru Outback is 200lbs. How far back from the nose of the trailer would you recommend mounting the wheel chock? Thanks.
Great comments Luis! They may appear critical to some but not to me, as I had to learn the importance of every item you mention and more the hard way = cost me money, time, aggravation, frustration, and ultimate dislike of the trailer I bought. Folks who have never owned a trailer before, which was me when I bought my trailer some months ago, I can say that every one of these concerns came back to bite me in the ass and cost me unanticipated money to resolve, and some of which cannot be resolved with my present trailer, I would have to buy a different trailer to have everyone correct. Here are my thoughts, NEVER BUY A MOTORCYCLE TRAILER WITHOUT FIRST PUTTING YOUR BIKE ON THE TRAILER AND ATTACHING YOUR TIE SOLUTION, AND IF YOU'RE WORRIED ABOUT TONGUE WEIGHT, PUT THE BIKE ON THE TRAILER AND MEASURE IT, THERE ARE PLENTY OF WAYS TO DO THIS, RESEARCH THEM AND GET ONE. TRAILERING A BIKE CAN BE DONE CHEAPLY, HOWEVER IF YOU DO IT CORRECTLY IT'S NOT CHEAP, IT'S THE PRICE OF ADMISSION TO TOW A BIKE SAFELY, SECURELY, CONFIDENTLY. ONLY AFTER VERIFYING THAT YOU CAN RIDE THE BIKE ONTO THE TRAILER SAFELY AND SECURELY, AND AFTER YOU ARE CERTAIN THAT THE TIE DOWNS ARE RIGHT FOR YOUR TIE SOLUTION AND CORRECTLY INSTALLED TO FRAMEWORK FOR THE RATED WEIGHT TO BE STRAPPED DOWN AND AFTER YOU'VE CONFIRMED TONGUE WEIGHT IS WITHIN YOUR SPEC, WITH BIKE ON THE TRAILER AND AFTER YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT INFORMATION IS REQUIRED TO BE SHOWN ON AN OUT OF STATE TITTLE BY YOUR REGISTERING STATE SHOULD YOU BEGIN TO NEGOTIATE YOUR TRAILER BUY. AN IN STATE TRAILER BUY, SHOULD NOT BE AN ISSUE AS THE SELLER WOULD BE VERY FAMILIAR WITH INSTATE TITTLE REQUIREMENTS. OUT OF STATE NOT SO MUCH IS MY EXPERIENCE, THEN IT BECOMES YOUR PROBLEM TO RESOLVE WHICH TAKES TIME YOU MAY NOT HAVE TO REGISTER AND PLATE YOUR TRAILER SO IT SITS RATHER THAN BEING USED. TRAILER TIE DOWN LOCATIONS AND TIE DOWN HARDWARE I FIIND IS AN AFTERTHOUGHT FOR MANY TRAIER SELLERS; ITS IN YOUR BEST INTEREST TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TIE HARDWARE AND LOCATIONS AND RATINGS YOU WANT FOR YOUR LOAD. LOTS OF STUDY BEFORE YOU BUY, SURE, BUT YOU WILL PUT IN THAT AMOUNT OF STUDY AFTER THE BUY IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THESE ITEMS FIGURED OUT AND RESOLVED BEFORE BUYING THE TRAILER -----AND LIKE ME YOU MAY ULTIMATELY DECIDE THAT BECAUSE YOU DID NOT DO ALL OF YOUR HOMEWORK, YOU BOUGHT THE WRONG TRAILER LIKE I DID. BUYERS BE INFORMED!
I have this same trailer for my HD Limited, and the trailer weighs 540 lbs plus my 900-1000 lb bike. Tongue weight should be about 10-15% of loaded trailer weight or 150 to 231 lbs. I hooked up my trailer to my truck, loaded my bike onto the trailer on a level surface, took my bathroom scale and put it under the jack and started to crank it up. I unlatched the hitch, and when the tongue started to lift off the ball, I had 173 lbs. From a safety point of view, too light on the front results in an oscillating trailer whereas too much on the front end loads down the tow vehicle. But my HD tow package on my truck is not worried about this little trailer.
Your trailers way too Nose Heavy. You need to move your wheel Chock back. You need to have the center of weight (the Motor of your bike or halfway between the bikes axles) over the trailer's axle.
