Products that I used in this video: Paints: - KBS: amzn.to/3EcalQA - Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mowBk8 - Raptor Liner: amzn.to/3pgY2hB - POR15: amzn.to/3JcO9JF - Eastwood Platinum: amzn.to/3JbskKq - Chassis Saver: amzn.to/3FiU4uD - VHT Chassis Paint: amzn.to/33EvQwI Preps: -Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3yVaaIj -KBS: amzn.to/3Jcp9SM -Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mo4Act -Raptor Acid Etch Primer: amzn.to/3qeKrXm -POR15: amzn.to/3Ev8gzv My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Great videos!! One thing I wish you would’ve mentioned is the cost difference between products. If there’s no discernible difference in performance between a couple/three products…is there a price advantage of any?
I used rust Bullet on my plow. then top coat of Rustoleum.. Holding out fine. That Rust Bullet is tough and hard.. And the only way to get it off your skin is to wear it off. I tried multiple solvents.. No go.. Used abrasive pad and hand cleaner.. Nice review as usual!
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this video and testing out these products. I’m not overly concerned about a piece getting a 90 or 180 degree bend in it. Like you said, there would be bigger problems than adhesion. Worried more about stopping the rust and the product staying on.
I use rust bullet. Kbs never lasted for me. I put rust bullet on a car over 15 years ago, 1 coat, over rust, and it never poked through. Still have the car. And the car stayed outside until about 6 years ago. Rust bullet is all I will buy! They earned my trust!
@@zracer1099 sweet thanks. I'm selling my Tacoma this week that was fully por 15d but I'm looking to try something different, getting new vehicle this week too
Well done. I’ve had por15 peel from a couple applications. I’ve been using KBS now for a while. I have had no issues. I’m excited to try out raptor liner on my JDM truck project in the future. Thanks for the effort!!
@david beaumont - I have a 4WD 1996 Daihatsu Hijet on a cargo ship in the Pacific Ocean, due at my closest port in a few weeks. I'll be "painting" it inside and outside with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. I'll also be giving it the Surface Shield undercoating treatment every year to prevent the frame from rusting.
Thanks for the hard work you put in this. I dont like por 15 because of uv fading and also i find it to chip very easy. I have since switched to rust bullet.
I mixed thermal beads with rust bullet and sprayed my floor, firewall, and ceiling after dry icing, wire-wheeling, and phos/prepping the surfaces. I cannot complain at all. It's all covered so the look isn't too important, it's held up well, and there is a 25f difference in the sun inside the car vs out. Couldn't be happier!
makes me feel more confident about using POR15 for my XJ's floor pans. in hindsight i would have went with your recommendation but there's no going back. thanks again for a great video
I have a love hate relationship with doing tests like this. I like shooting them but my channel is small enough that I can't guarantee a return in my investment for products. I have comparisons that I've shot that have taken 2 years to cover my costs for products let alone my time.
I used chassis saver on a frame of a 1999 GMC truck that was rusty. I used a needle scaler , blew it off and coated it. I did try to take a screwdriver to it just to test adhesion and I couldn’t get it to peel at all. The reason I used chassis saver was because of the need to not really prep. It actually says it works better on rusted surfaces .
Most people don't know that POR-15 means Paint Over Rust 15th version. If there is no rust it won't stick. I sand blasted my frame used the silver base and painted the frame. Less than a year it all peeled off in huge chucks. Had to have the frame blasted again and had it powdercoated. It's now been 10 years and no peeling or other issues.
Thank you so much for this. I am planning on coating an old trailer with a lot of surface rust with Raptor Liner. I was thinking of using Rust Kutter to prep first before applying the Raptor Liner after seeing your video on Rust Kutter. You mentioned in this video that you might do more videos with Raptor Liner. If one of the scenarios you try can be Rust Kutter & Raptor Liner, that would really be a big help.
I have a plan for the products that I showed here as well as the rust converters. They are going to complement each other. It's going to take me a serious amount of time to shoot that video. So you may see a gap in uploads from me. Like I said in the video, if using Raptor strip as much rust as possible. Raptor offers 3 different types of primer. If you strip down to bare metal use the acid etch. Over existing paint requires a different primer.
@@RepairGeek Any idea when this will be coming out? I've got a trailer I'm currently working on. I just went at it with the grinder today, and my Rust Kutter will arrive tomorrow. I haven't decided what finish to use though... Paint, Rhino or Raptor liner, POR, etc.
I have used POR 15 for decades, last year I used it and I had that same peeling problem with it peeling off, even with the prep I literally blew it all off with a pressure washer, peeped it again and used rust bullet and no problems. I have tried getting it replaced by POR15 with no luck. It definitely didn’t work like it did in the past.
I do wonder if they've changed the ingredients of POR15. I know its made from some nasty chemicals. So if theyve removed a certain chemical which made it work so well in the past that would make sense. I've got some tins that are almost 10 years old, still good. And I have zero complaints, it sticks to almost everything apart from nice shiny fresh steel, which it isnt meant for. So when I see comments hating on it it doesnt make sense to me. Its the most forgiving paint I've ever used on mildy rust parts (like cast nuckles, diffs etc)
I used chassis saver before. I got it at the local parts store. It recommended on the can to use chassis saver primer. The prime was sold at the parts store as well. But I had a large can then the one your showing. I put mine on primed metal that was new. And on some rusted metal. It did a good job. Just saying.
I would bet the greater the flexibility of the coating, the less likely to suffer failure during heating/cooling cycle, as both steel and aluminum can expand and contract.
I am about to start on 2 different projects. The first is a car and the 2nd is a bus. I was leaning towards POR 15 for the underside and Raptor for the inside. Now I'm just going to Raptor both sides. Great video, thanks for doing these tests.
Man I think you just saved me a ton load of money. I am in the process of treating and painting my chassis for my truck for rust and I had all the products you basically said were trash in my cart. I thank you so much for these videos.
Thank you, I actually watched both parts after I sent the message. Thats actually quite a bit of work, def not going thru that. I just want the chassis to aesthetically look a bit better rather than treating the entire body for rust. Ive decided to to use the rust kutter and, kbs for the eye sore areas ( I really want something that is going to stick and adhere to the chassis) and lanolin for areas I cannot see or reach. Thanks again for the informative videos 👍🏽
This is my method ive been doing undercarriage. Clean with phosphoric acid at 15% then epoxy primer and top epoxy coat or raptor .. best durabilitly so far.
Thank you very much for your work! I was thinking of doing this, but your video informs me that it’s not something I want to do. There is so much effort and expense involved for a small amount of comfort. The additional weight makes it even less appealing, because it affects both acceleration and mileage. If I see -10 dB change it would put me on the fence, -4 dB at highway speed doesn’t justify my cost and time. If I’m setting up a car with a powerful high-end audio system, then it’s worth it. Such a car wouldn’t have driving performance and fuel economy as primary concerns. Unfortunately I don’t have such a car.
Would have been nice to see you paint that with some cheap rattle can paint too and some epoxy primer. Then leave it outside for a year and do another video.
One thing that needs to be mentioned about POR-15 is that it absolutely requires a top coat. They are abundantly clear about the fact it has poor UV resistance and will not survive if left exposed. That means the added expense and labor of a top coat has to be considered when comparing it. But if you're doing cavities or a floorpan, no big deal.
They aren't kidding either. I POR-15'd my 20 ft car trailer and didn't topcoat it. Within a year it was very chalky and you didn't want to sit on it or the black chalk would transfer to your clothes! I read the directions but just never got around to painting it.
It doesn’t have to be too coated. What they are very clear about, is that even though it will discolour with exposure to UV, it will still perform the same.
@@reefhog That's incorrect. It's not UV stable, meaning it degrades and flakes off without a top coat. The chalky discoloration is the first stage of it breaking down.
Thank you so much for your videos! This is really good information. I have an 04 mustang convertible that I have completed stripped the entire underneath of transmission, rear end, lines, etc. there is some decent rust in the rear half. (Trunk and rear bumper area). I plan to wire wheel the whole underside as best as I can. This car means a lot to me and I understand the best way to get rid of rust is to just cut it out. However for the most part I don’t believe the rust is that deep in most areas. Finally, Is there a product that you’d put as #1 for painting the entire underneath of this car? I was going to use por-15 however seeing chunks of pealing comments more frequently than not lately. Thank you so much. I don’t want to have to do all of this again haha
Based on your experience, do you think the Raptor would work well with a phosphoric acid rust converter? (I would like the sound deadening but I have some surface rust)
I truly appreciate your videos, I've actually watched all your rustproofing videos in one sitting tonight! Glad I did, didn't know Blaster made such product and it's available near me by the gallon! No other choice but to sub! Quick question, I have a 2009 Crown Vic in eastern Canada. It was owned by an elderly couple and hasn't seen a lot of snow yet and the floor pans look brand new, so I want to keep it that way. The frame has some light surface rust, so I was wondering what your thoughts were on the following. The plan was to clean the rust with a wire wheel and paint it with por15. Seeing how it peels in large patches, I'm considering a different route. Would I be better off applying por15/kbs to the bare metal and then applying raptor liner to protect coating or is one product enough? Finally, since it's just surface rust, would you skip the wirewheel part? Quick note, I only have access to raptor liner, regular asphalt undercoating (from canadian tire), por15, kbs and rustoleum up here. Thanks!
What's best for a rusted engine block, still assembled, after a thermacure flush?? Also, have you seen/ used any Wurth rust encapsulation products?? I also like using engine block hi temp paints or hedder paints.
I just applied KBS on the frame and suspension of my new 2024 Toyota 4runner. I'm curious to see if it prevents rust over the next several rustbelt winters.
Great video, love to see these tests. However eastwood does have a metal prep. I called their representatives when i tried the stuff out. They said for bare metal: Sand with 320 grit, then use their clean metal prep (essentially acetone they said) then apply the eastwood rust encapsulator As for rusted and pitted metal: Use their fast etch product which has that phosphoric acid you mentioned, then use their clean metal prep (acetone) , then encapsulate it
Did they mention anything about painting over existing paint? Have a flet bed and tool box with rust spots and don't want to completely remove the paint that is still good.
Parks makes phosphoric acid by the quart . That’s what you need on steel that has all over rust. I just spray it on with an old spray bottle . In order for anything to stick long term you must remove all that surface rust and flake and the flake in particular. Wire wheels on a grinder work great then hit the pits with phosphoric acid. Sanding with flat sanders works ok too but all 3 dimensional flake or build up has to go. For scale and flake on thick steel I rap on it with a cheap air chisel using the pointed tip. I blunt the point so it doesn’t want to cut hold it loosely and LET IT BOUNCE. Far better results than using my needle scaler and uses a lot less air.
Another great video! Here is something I’ve been wondering, what neutralizes the road salt and or brine? Like, is there something I could siphon into my pressure washer when I wash under my truck at the end of the winter, then when it’s fully dry, follow up with a thorough coat of that lanolin film you like so much? Also, i wonder if you and project farm would team up? Would be great for coverage for your channels. Maybe on the salt neutralizer, get all myth busters? Love what your doing for all of us.
Tested salt washes already:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OGts4eSg8Sw.html I personally don't see a huge advantage with them. Either way with or without them my vehicles don't rust. I would love to team up with project farm. Collaborations need to make sense for all involved. I would benefit a lot more from that sort of exposure than what he would.
@@RepairGeek wow, ok I’ll watch that. That’s a shame they don’t work, ive had it build up and look like toothpaste and not wash off. Thanks for replying!
I was wanting to use one of these products on a old truck frame. I fluid film all my newer vehicles. This video sealed the deal in my mind. I'm just gona fluid film the older truck frame as well. To much hassle in all the prep work, and still seems to be a possibility that the opoxy will peal. Great video 👍
I've used and sweared by Rust Bullet for years. It IS the best of all. They sell a black version too. POR 15 takes too much work to prep and costs more for a less stable product.
@@technicalitems731 The rust converter and seal is silver, the Black Shell can be applied over it, but I just overspray with any black paint, like Rustoleum, Krylon because I like the satin finish. You don't need to top coat though.
@@karlx-1 Nice, ill have to do this! Rust bullet silver, then any black paint over top of it. Would u consider adding PB Blaster Surface shield underneath too? to help prolong everything much longer? or no difference
Thanks for the vid! My experience aligns with your results, phosphoric acid based products work "better" than others I have tried, but still not a miracle product.
I have a pretty significant automotive rust repair in my near future. I have been watching your videos, and I think I know what products and tools I need to get everything down to bare metal. Is the best move at that point to repaint it with a product like this and THEN hit it with surface shield? Or just hit it with surface shield on the bare metal? Or something else? Thanks for posting these videos. They make this project seem doable.
I love the raptor liner, Ill be interested how it performs with rust prevention. I treat for rust and then protect with the raptor. Just did a bumper and got great results!
This is an interesting test. Thanks for the effort and for sharing. I would just like to add one thing: Do not put these type of coatings on metal that has pitting from rust. Not without testing if it works. From my experience, the converter is not able to penetrate all the rust pores left in the pits after sanding the surface. This leads to rust reappearing over time. Surface rust, like in this test, no problem as you said. :)
Glad I am a subscriber. Planning on preventing future rust on my new old Chevy which sat in a barn. My neighbor paint and body guy suggested Chassis Saver over POR 15 so I sprung for a quart and the corresponding reducer, I like to get the best bang for the buck, and checked out prices which are all comparable. While looking for Krud Cutter found Rust Cutter and the price was good. # x the phosphoric acid. Itll be my go to. Thanks! was shocked ad the way the Chassis Saver pealed away. Maybe that's why the tell you not to remove all the rust? Any thoughts about using an oil based top coat loke rustolium over Chassis Saver, if scuff sanded? T^hanks for you in depth assessment.
Thing is with a few of those paints they recommend using their rust reforming pre product. I’ve used almost all of those with and without pre coat and the cans directions and recommended process always works best.
I’ve heard bad things about using bed liner as an undercoating because it traps moisture and rusts metal underneath the coat. Good video though! I’ve been searching for an undercoat
My dad sprayed some of the rustoleum bedliner in the front frame of his 24 ft. Enclosed trailer and doesn't seem too be showing rust yet. Granted that he did paint it on a dry sunny summer day.
If you have existing rust on the underbody, is it better to use the lanolin products like you recommended in another video or use something like rust bullet? Or do you put rust bullet only on places without rust?
I have some custom control arms i had made by a guy, the outside is zinc coated but the insides were unfortunately left untreated and has a small amount of surface rust over smooth metal. There is absolutely no way to sand the insides, all i can do is basically pour paint in. Do you think por15 could work or would i be better off with an epoxy primer? I am worried about adhesion since I can't sand it. I will do a woolwax coat after.
I've done my Subaru strut towers and recently fj60 chassis with Eastwood rust platinum. It's great and you can actually just paint over it. I put some type of undercoating. I personally feel any these is a good rust saver.
Great video! I recently got my 68 Cougar back from the body shop. I've been wondering about the condition of the Cowl area since these cars are subsepticle to rust even though my body guy told me the cowl was solid. Unfortunately, I found a small leak on the driver's side and a few other pin holes. I know the ultimate fix is lower cowl replacement, which is very costly, and I think overkill for this situation. Before finding this video and some of your other great videos on the subject of rust, I initially was going to use POR15 rust treatment and POR15 patch (for the pin holes). However, after reading the instructions for the cleaner and prep, I don't think I can remove all of the chemicals out of the area before using POR15 rust treatment since it is difficult to get to. I'm wondering now if I should use something like Rust Kutter, POR15 patch and then topcoat with a good quality paint? So, would you be so kind to offer some advise?
I know it is off the subject. But fluid film on a newer GM truck with the o.e wax coating. How's it affect the original coating? Is it anything to be concerned about ?
Great info! Hoping this hasn't been gone over before but I have a different situation. I live in AZ and bought a truck from Michigan. Rust isn't horrible at all but I want to spray my leafs and some other areas. So being in AZ, if I'm not worried about rust forming again, what would you recommend for a somewhat flexible black for leaf springs? I'd like to use aerosol. Thanks!
For exposed frame (wheel wells) w/surface rust - would you recommend fluid film or raptor liner? plan to use fluid film on undercarriage, but the places I look at i wouldn't mind them being "black." Not sure how the FF black appears as a paint (using for rust, but would love to get it black to cover up the ugly rust). Also, any suggestions on fender flare holes? Theres a couple near the front at the bottom that the holes lead into the door panel. Can spray FF inside to prevent cavities and decay from the inside, but wondering if I should plug them. thinking a sealant thatll harden that i have used for molding repair, but wondering if I should spray over the sealant with raptor liner.
Could you please clarify something for me? Where and when do you use these products? You other videos expressly say not to use products like raptor liner on the underbody. What is the rule of thumb for using paint, vs plastic coating, vs fluid film?
Thanks for doing this, I bought a small POR-15 kit and was concerned about the flexibility for my application. I have some surface rust on the springs of some coilovers that I want to coat. Might save the POR-15 and use the KBS or Chassis Saver (with prep) on the springs. I will definitely be getting a bottle of the Rust Kutter for when I do some bigger projects!
@@jeremyrock9305 Thinking about using POR 15 for my Tahoe. I'm in Denver and this undercoating stuff is all new to me. I don't know how you guys deal with this crap. Next time I buy a used truck I'm paying attention for rust
@@DJR5280 - I bought a used 4Runner a year ago and the frame is the first thing I looked at and probably viewed 19 rusted frames to find one that wasn't. If there is more than very mild surface corrosion, I don't bother looking at anything else. Frame corrosion is car cancer. It's disqualifying when I'm buying a used vehicle. I'll fix other stuff - cracked dash, trashed seats, a body with small dents, scratches or paint chips, but I am not doing a frame off restoration to fix a corroded frame.
Thanks for doing this, do you wipe with a water damp cloth after phosphoric acid or does it make a difference? I noticed that in the instructions on that most .
What I've done with rust bullet is put the automotive paint on first and then put the rust bullet black shell over top and let me tell ya it is very very tough when it's done drying and it also leaves a very glossy finish with no brush marks. I used it on my 02 Toyota Tacoma and plan to do it to my 94 Toyota pickup
Have you ever used Xion Lab 2 in 1 rust converter & metal primer it is expensive but it is awesome to use. Wold be cool if you could make a video about this product 🤗
The best etch imo is Ospho. it just works with less coats than others for really bad rust. I think it all just phosphoric acid, smells like the same eggs to me, probably of different concentrations. In the military we used naval jelly. Follow the directions as you start using the higher concentrations. And the great news is it appears that the same stuff is sold in Home Depot and Lowes as Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep. Dont waste your money paying more for the same stuff elsewhere.
The difficult think with using these products is getting good coverage on the backside of panels. I am sure there are tricks and techniques for doing that. I just haven't figured them out.
What I’m curious about is when these products are applied over the top of existing factory paint. I have some light rust issues in problem areas and I’d like to just clean it up and apply over the old paint. Is this ok to do?
Great video, one thing you overlooked was that rust bullet automotive is not UV stable, and is intended to be overcoated. Their chassis black version is designed to be exposed. I have used Rust Bullet previously on vehicle restorations, and was curious as to how it compared to KBS that is a little cheaper. According to rust bullet, the silver isn't even supposed to be the top coat underneath the vehicle, due to reflected light.
So the black is the same product as the silver but contains uv or sunlight protection? Or is the silver better with a top coat of (what?) paint? Thanks
Por15 seems like most common ppl use, I like the results of Rust bullet, and he even says to add a top coat over top of it. If anyone going this route, what top coat would u guys add to to it? to cover it up? then can u add another coat on top of that such as PB Surface shield
Great review. I used to use POR quite a bit and used to get it like 30 years ago at the car shows and flea markets but that stuff is crazy expensive now. I wanted to try something different and heard about Rust Bullet and tried some 3 or 4 years ago. It's OK, but like you said, it was a big disappointment to see the brush marks after it dried and even after top coating it. I'll probably use KBS as it's cheaper than POR. The big thing I don't think you mentioned is that POR is UV sensitive and will break down if not top coated. It's basically a humidity activated urethane that was developed as a paint for bridges.
Chassis Saver is a similar moisture catalyzed urethane coating. It doesn't degrade its corrosion resistance after exposed to UV, but the color does fade from black to dark gray.
@@Liberty4Ever I would try either that or the KBS but I would never get that Rust Bullet again. It was kind of expensive at $55 a qt 4 years ago. Probably OK if you used it underneath of a driver to just stop rust but I had to sand the crap out of it and still had brush marks. At least the others go on smooth. Used maybe 1/8-1/4 of the can and thought I sealed it pretty well. Opened it a month ago and the whole can was solid as a rock.
@@vincemajestyk9497 - The moisture initiated urethane coatings start curing as soon as they're exposed to the air. Sometimes you can keep half a can if you pour a quarter inch of their compatible solvent (reducer) on top of the leftover material in the can and don't stir it. You should also use a piece of Saran wrap polyethylene film between the can and the lid to prevent the stuff from permanently sealing the can.
@@Liberty4Ever Funny you mention that. I did use saran wrap over the lid and had been doing that for years. Must have not sealed. A real bummer losing that much paint, even if it wasn't that great. That's a good tip about the reducer. I think I'll do that next time. Thanks!
@@vincemajestyk9497 - I think the Saran wrap is only useful to keep the polyurethane from permanently sealing the lid to the can. Polyurethane bonds very strongly to metal. It takes very little moisture to kick off the curing reaction. If you leave the lid off the can for a few minutes in humid conditions it's enough to start the curing process and a month later you have a solid chunk of polyurethane. I know that Monstaliner recommends opening the can just long enough to dip or pour out the material you need and then seal the can immediately to protect the contents from atmospheric humidity, even if you'll be using the rest in a few hours. Pouring a thin layer of reducer on top of the polyurethane in the can will protect it from the humidity in the air that's in the can, and it can be mixed with the polyurethane to thin it the next time you use it because even a very small amount of exposure to water in the atmosphere will slowly start to thicken the polyurethane. I plan on mixing and using entire gallons, and if I need a small amount for touch ups later, I'll buy a fresh quart. It's unlikely I'll need to use the leftovers within a month, and when I need the leftovers next year, they'll be solidified in the can. I probably missed my opportunity to use bed liner to "paint" my Hijet mini truck because it's arriving from Japan three months after I purchased it and that'll be at the start of winter, so I'll buy the polyurethane bed liner when I need it in the spring and not months before.
I know you are suppose to top coat POR 15 but I would be interesting to see the UV resistance of all of these products without a top coat. I can tell you POR 15 does not fair well after a year in the sun. I am wondering if any of the others would be better.
my friend runs a small shop and he painted the roof of his rusty old 60s model shop truck with Rust Bullet that was left over. It's been sitting in the yard uncovered for 9 years now and is just beginning to show some hints rust around the edges again (drip rails and a seam). I personally LIKE the fact that Rust Bullet goes on thin even if it doesn't flow as well as the thick almost rubbery stuff some others have. If I ever have to replace it, I did once while doing a repair, it isn't as hard to remove the RB. It wont sand for shit though. It is very hard and don't think you will use it in lieu of fill primer even for small scratches or whatever. You will still have to spray some fill.
Cuz mine is a very best rust inhibitor there is no question about it. But if not a homeowners project takes a pump that develops 5 to 6 thousand pounds of pressure. It never sets up and never gets hard it's always working and the oils in it seep in every crack and crevice. I've done it for years and always works. It takes about a third of a barrel to do one vehicle.
Awesome video! I have heard good things about Rust Bullet. I have also heard about Masterseries Rust Sealer. Apparently, both are silver because they contain aluminum in the paint, which is meant to help block moisture and oxygen from reaching the metal. Would like to know your thoughts and your paint chemist friend's thoughts on them as well. Thinking about using Rust Bullet or Masterseries to treat surface rust on frame and then cover it in fluid film.
I just painted the floor of my 65 mustang in the Eastwood platinum. I agree the silver is a little harsh looking but I used a foam brush and didn't end up with brush marks like in your tests. Hopefully it holds up well but it's getting covered by Second Skin mats anyway so I'll never know.
