Just a few points that should be added when using tapcons. You generally want to drill a pilot hole thats 1/16” inch smaller than the screw diameter eg for 5/16” tapcon use 4/16” = 1/4” drill bit and it usually tells u on the drill bit box. You want a pilot hole that matches the core diameter of the screw - not the outer thread diameter obviously. To prevent bit wander when starting the hole use an even smaller bit and then switch to the pilot bit. Also drill about 1/4” -1/2” inch deeper than the screw depth in the concrete to prevent the screw from hitting debris sitting in the bottom of the hole. And blow out or shop vacuum out debris from hole after drilling.
I do a lot of concrete/ steelwork and never used those tbh . Always used M12 / M10 Rawl bolts with chemical anchor to bolt to concrete and usually 70mm / 150mm deep for short post ( ie 1m / 3 foot ) .
3/8” holes, 3” deep took me 15 minutes EACH. Then I started using a smaller diameter masonary bit, then the 3/8”. Seemed to go quicker. Plus I had to REALLY push hard on the concrete I was drilling into. By that time I didn’t care if I fried the drill or smoked the bit. Guess what? It went faster when I really pushed hard.
@@JackTRyan I'm having the same problem now. Drilling 8, 1/2" holes in concrete I poured 20 years ago. Started with carbide tip that came with anchors and battery powered Milwaukee drill motor. Very slow. Went to hardware store and rented hammer drill and bought 1/2" bit made for hammer drill After about 3 minutes, still only 1" deep. (first hole). Guess I'll just push harder.
@@JackTRyan hammer function makes all the difference. You can have most powerful drill in the world and some junk hammer drill will work better for concrete. Make sure you also use masonry bits of course (which you are so no issues there)
"Turn the screw by hand for the last couple of revolutions. By doing this, you exert less torque and prevent the Tapcon screw from stripping the threads tapped into the base material."
I've used the Tapcon screws for several jobs and with great results. A few tips: 1. drill about 1/4" deeper than the screw length; 2. Keep the cement dust out of the hole. You can do that by raising the drill a few times while drilling, bringing more concrete dust with it. Use a shop vac to clean up the concrete dust for crying out loud! :-) That dust can compact at the bottom of the hole, making it difficult to tighten the screw all the way; a final air blaster at the end can get the remainder out; 3. Be sure to wear a good dust mask (at least N95) and safety glasses
Beaver starts playing with his father's unplugged drill. When Larry comes over, he tries to goad Beaver into plugging it in to drill real holes. Knowing he isn't supposed to play with his father's tools, Beaver refuses. But Beaver doesn't stop Larry from doing it, with Beaver even holding the piece of wood Larry is going to drill into up against the garage wall. When the resulting drill holes result in holes in the garage wall as well, Beaver knows he's going to get into trouble when his father sees what happened. Indeed, Ward feels that the incident is more Beaver's fault than Larry's fault since Beaver knew directly from Ward previously that he was not to play with his tools. Angry that he is being punished for what he believes is not his fault, Beaver not only tells his father that he is going to run away, but defiantly (at first) walks out of the house in front of his father. But when Ward lets him go, Beaver seems confused but leaves anyway. The battle of wills is now not only between Ward and Beaver, but also between Ward and June who doesn't care about anything except the welfare of her son, even after they find out that Beaver is fine and over at the Mondello's. Wally is the one who provides the voice of reason, or at least the voice of what it feels like to be a child pushed into a corner.
Power drill without two mechanical speeds has low torque, high speed. You may adjust the speed from trigger or dial, but at low speed, motor has weakest torque. If you try to use such drill to fasten tap cons which are hard to turn, motor will stall, unable to start rotating the tap cons, will overheat very quickly and you can burn the drill. Drills have a plastic fan blade, to cool the motor, but when motor does not turn at high speeds, fan does nothing and heat accumulates in the motor rotor, burning it if not careful. So you need to have gear multiplier, i.e. two speed drill, to make it easier for motor to turn tap cons, without jamming and overheating.
Why not set the foot / base where he wants it and drill down through that instead drilling the holes separate and move the base ? especially if the whole project is heavy and hard to move... (Just Extra Steps)
its doable, but you can damage the holes in the base that way with the drill bit. also makes it difficult to maneuver the drill for the correct angle straight down
Yo!! *******Speed drive those Tapcons to keep the screws metal from heating under stress!! USE A DRILL AND DRIVER AND STOP JUST AS SOON AS TAPCON REACHES THE METAL BASE. Otherwise you risk not only decreasing the concrete grab but, you also risk heating and snapping tapcon!!******* Use a Drill(no hammer) with a driver!!
Thank you! I have the exact same need. My plan is to use Tapcon 5/16-in x 2-1/4-in screws with my 1/4-in drill bit. I wonder how your project turn out after a year? Did you ended up installing 4 screws?
@@winstonkiddjr.3540 I"ll give you a priceless tip when screwing into masonry that will always work,. Remove the sheathing from regular electrical wire (15 amp or 20). Then cut a piece of the copper wire at a depth of the hole you drilled. stick it in the hole and then put the screw in. Turn it just a touch and then tighten it with an impact driver (this will not work manually unless you are the Hulk lol). The copper wire binds with the screw and that screw will NEVER move !. Works great if you don't have Tapcons, you can just use a deck screw with a star or Robinson head, and a piece of the copper wire (don't use Philips heads the screw gets so tight it will strip out the Philips) Always use the correct drill bit, you can look it up on the Web, some brick is very brittle and you'll get play, using an epoxy into the hole is another great tip but then you have to wait for it to set, the wire is one and done ! '
Advice dude: when you wipe away that drill dust….just use your mouth (blowing) or wipe it away with your hand….how you scrape that dust with that f..ing screwdriver its just dumb.
Tap con tells me to use a 1/4 inch drillbit for a 1/4 inch screw, that doesn’t seem right because it wouldn’t be secure because it’s the same size as the drill hole. Am I right or wrong?
