I can't believe this exists. Been grappling with this idea and looking for a solution for years, now I just feel stupid.🤣 Thanks bro, will share far and wide!
I just bought my first BMX yesterday, and the brakes are the first thing I noticed I was going to have to find a better way to get more power from them. Can we get a "how to" video of the process? I know its simple, but I always enjoy watching someones process before an attempt of my own. Great video and just what I was looking for!
Thank you. What a transformation. My no name brakes went from barely slowing me down to providing more power than I can use. I ended routing the cable along the downtube and using a 90 degree noodle. I also drilled a hole in the brake arm to provide a solid seat for the noodle.
Finally got this done. Took me well over an hour, first time I've ever ran a new cable and messed with brakes. Took quite a bit of adjustment, had to cut the cable and housing a couple of times too. Nearly destroyed the new cable😅but now it's done it's amazing, she clamps like a vice! No more fussy straddle gubbins, looks much nicer with the noodle. Highly recommend OP's Ubrake transformation. Feels like a brake that working much more efficiently
I've just done this mod on my WTP Audio 22, works great. I found that looping the cable around the seat tube made the v brake noodle rub against the tyre so routed it straight to the brake. Could be I need to take up the slack a bit more to make it work around the seat tube, I'll try it out and see if it works. Thanks again 😀
Just bought my son a Collective C1. The brake sucks. I was looking at it and saw the geometry is all wrong. I was wondering if doing away with the straddle would work, now I see it does, I'm doing the same.
I moved a few months ago and I can't find my straddle cable part that secures it to my cable. I'm stoked I found your video after searching for videos on Odyssey's new Springfield U break kit. This will solve several issues, if it works.
This didn't work. Too much cable is left after installation. It is right in the path of your leg and it simply will not work without a few additions. One being a 90°, metal cable housing sleeve from some mtb.
He used a flexible one. I like the adjustment on the underside of my top tube and wit tsis it would be gone. Also u brakes have longer arm to compensate diferent directon so im not sure
@@roadrash9024 it’s called a brake noodle. They will sell you one at the bike shop for a buck or two. Seriously, that’s the key to this. Just ramming extra cable won’t work... get the noodle. In the video it’s the little black ( shaped piece of ‘housing looking stuff.’ Peace
Get an Odyssey gyro and a London Mod so you have twin cables. Replace standard rolled metal springs with CNC squared ones cut from a solid block. And maybe upgrade the brake pads (with a diacompe fiesta kit if your'e running AD996 Hombres) and throw some titanium bolts in there too. But deffo go for a twin-pull system rather than a single pull one as featured here. Plus gyros are just better than having some hipster crap. Peace
I don't have a 1988 trek huffster... We use 990s haha. Jokes aside, you seem to have left a giant, completely loose, section of cable coming into the brakes. Thats incredibly dangerous for any of us that use the bikes as intended. All you've done is run the brakes like the front brakes, which indeed, can help with arm flex. But if it was the solution, we would already be doing it en mass. Thanks for the video tho!
The noodle is securing the brake to the first arm. How do you secure the cable to the second arm? Also, my frame does not have any cable guides. Are cable guides necessary? Do certain 990 models work better than others?
My U brake has a claw on one arm and a nut anchor on the other arm. If you’re style brake has a claw on both arms you would need a narp to secure the brake cable. If your frame doesn’t have cable guides you’ll have to use zip ties.
Landon if you see this where can i get that long wire you used with the thing at the end that allows it to sit in the brakes and what brand brakes are those.
what brake system are you using. I am rebuilding an old BMX bike for the grandson and this is what I'm looking to do. Do not like the original system to complicated.
This is basically the same way that the front U brake is installed, the difference being that there’s no need for a flexible V brake noodle on the front.
Yes, but you’d need to buy a new lower gyro cable because it needs to be longer than the standard setup. Any new lower cable will be long enough for you to cut to size.
Done! Ordered the new Gyro cable and a flex noodle. All fitted. Finding the outer flexs a little which make the initial brake bite a little soft. Is there a way to improve thus? Needs more support I think. But overall works better than stock and looks a lot cleaner.
Seems like it would be easier to just set your brakes up correctly. Also try filling a bit of the breaking surface off of new pads before installing them.
My god, I can't believe modern BMXs have this shite setup. Back in the 80's side pulls were brilliant. Even V brakes are better than this antiquated cantilever crap. FFS.
