In our highly-anticipated second episode of the Arunachal food series, we embarked on a soulful culinary journey in Itanagar. The destination over here was Aan Homestay. Where we joined our gracious hostess Nengkha Tage, who happens to be from the Apatani tribe, for a truly immersive Apatani cuisine experience.
As we stepped into the pretty and welcoming space, we were greeted by Nengkha's warm and enthusiastic smile, setting the tone for an evening filled with cultural revelations and delectable dishes. Our adventure began as she led us to the kitchen area, where an intriguing culinary spectacle was ready to unfold. Two out of the five dishes on the menu were to be prepared over an open fire, requiring a makeshift setup near the homestay's kitchen garden. These dishes included raw eggs cooked within bamboo stems and a mixture of chicken gizzard, intestines, liver and raw eggs cooked inside a hollow bamboo stem.
Throughout the cooking process, she shared captivating insights into Apatani culture and culinary traditions, unveiling the tribe's unique condiments called tapyo that is prepared from local herb ashes and shedding light on customs such as tattooing and nose plugs. Watching the bamboo cooking process, accompanied by Nengkha's vivid explanations, was a delightful experience.
As the bamboo dishes slowly seared over the crackling fire, we moved indoors to cook the remaining three dishes. Our culinary journey continued with the preparation of a simple rice and millet porridge, a remarkable bamboo shoot, smoked bacon and banana peel ash filtrate based dish and a healthy boiled vegetable dish.
While the dishes took shape, Nengkha Tage
shared tales about the ingredients and practices. She also provided us with glimpses into the intricate process of acquiring the indispensable ash filtrate. With each passing moment, our appreciation for the Apatani tribe's rich culinary culture deepened, all thanks to Nengkha's
meticulous planning and enthusiasm.
Soon we sat down for dinner with Nengkha her adorable mother. The dishes that adorned our table were not just visually appealing but also a testament to the simplicity and wholesomeness of the Apatani cuisine. Neither of them had any spices or oil. From the comforting rice and millet porridge to the one-of-a-kind bamboo tube creations, each flavor resonated with tradition.
We extend our heartfelt gratitude to the family for this memorable experience that was made possible by Nengkha Tage profound knowledge about her culinary heritage.
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Text by Swetaleena Nayak
4 окт 2024
