I am gearing up to get a whoop again and the air is something im super interested in. I have to pull the trigger on an elrs radio though as i only have crossfire. Super clean build this was fun to watch at work.. dont tell my boss.
@@Rckid28 i know but the elrs micro rx seems the best option for whoops and ELRS has way more bnf options for micros. Not many are putting crsf in them.
As a former crossfire fanboy myself, in my opinion ELRS has killed crossfire. Obviously if it works for you, and you like it, use it. It treated me well for years so I can’t knock it. But at this time i’m flying 100% ELRS and loving it. The hardware is super inexpensive and the performance has been near flawless for me. You can set the packet rate all the way up to 1000hz and get an amazing responsive feel that CRSF can’t replicate. That + the integration of the backpack technology and VTX administrator, + the wide variety of BNF quads using ELRS, it’s a no brainer for most people. But everyone is entitled to their own opinions!
Awesome man! I love whoops, you are going to have a great time. I would highly recommend a Radiomaster radio of some kind with internal ELRS, mine has been great for years. Happy flying!
Yess! Going to be awesome. we will see how raceable this board is, I’ve heard there may be some issues with VTX output power. Either way I had to test!
nice job otherwise what nylon screw do you use to fix the fc and do you have visual distortions some time? Because i see 1 personne have this problem some time? But very good video
The RENY screws I use are found here: solidspot.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22160 As for visual distortions, Im not sure what you mean, but if it has to do with flight performance I released a video a few days ago aboutt it
🫡 my new karate whoop tune is a good place to start as well. The 20k dynamic idle is a real winner keeping the motors wound up so your not having to go from 3k-15k before she starts to respond
Thanks for the video. Not twisting the motor wires and cutting to proper length.. I wonder if it lasts longer in the long run to do it that way.. but I was going to ask.. and I see this a lot.. but no one tells me what kind to use. But that is the glue. Glueing the receiver... like where to put the glue.. what kind..? And is it hard to clean up..if messed up or you got to break it down again.. and same with antenna.. where do you put the glue? Onto the actual metal where it clips in at.. or on the plastic to somewhere on the fc? Hope that makes sense lol
Happy to help! 1. I’ve found that twisting the motor wires can cause them to break quicker as they are under constant tension (from the twist). it’s also a good idea to leave some slack in the wires so they don’t get tugged on when the frame flexes in a crash. Finding the happy medium length of short and lightweight but still slacked without tension is a good idea. 2. I glued my receiver down with e6000 glue, I will paste a link at the end of this comment. You can also use double-sided mounting tape, which is easier to remove but it’s slightly heavier. e6 is typically able to be removed without damaging components. 3. The video antenna isn’t glued at all, It’s held in place with the U.fl connector on the board and i run the end of it through the frame out the back. Hope this helps! thanks for watching! www.tinywhoop.com/products/e6000?_pos=1&_sid=7520c0a21&_ss=r
I use a Sainsmart desktop soldering station, I think it’s discontinued. It was gifted to me a few years ago, and It has worked well. I also have a TS100 I keep in my bag for soldering on the go, I would recommend that first. Here’s the only link i could find to the sainsmart solder station, just so you could see what it looks like. www.ubuy.co.in/product/3UJ8UJHZQ-sainsmart-soldering-station-80w-strong-power-solder-station-kit-with-176-f-896-f-adjustable-temperature-range-c-f-conversion-temperature
Hi! Can you help me please. What is the right pin out connection for the SH1.0 4 Pin connector in the Aio? GND,D-,D+,5V? I made myself the usb adaptator,because it was not included😭 Thank you!
Hi there! I can help you out. If you are looking at the bottom of the FC with the back of the FC at the bottom, from Left to Right the Pins are GND, D-, D+, 5V so in this case the 5v side of the connector would be closest to the battery lead solder pads on the right. Hope that makes sense!
Thank you! It was a great help! I measured it with a multimeter and it is correct. I hope that info helped for many people who want make the usb adaptator
Hi! Thanks for watching. The magnet wire works fine in most situations. I recommend using it to connect 2 components which are glued together, such as the FC and RX in this build or the FC and VTX on other builds. It does work to connect the camera to the FC, but the camera mount can flex in crashes and I have broken the wire multiple times before because of that, so I would probably stick with silicone wire there. It insulates pretty well, I would say.
I know why there using the new connection to the FC cause in my experience the USB can break and it'll impossible to get the FC to connect to BF with the new set up it's much better to connect to BF
In my experience I haven't really come across that issue with BetaFPV boards in the past, so I don't really think that is why. This is much more inconvenient for the user, but it's common practice to replace with this connector when building ultra-light. on this new ultralight FC, I believe that is why they added it. I see many more failure points with this connector than with a micro USB. thanks for watching!
