Betta Fry Development: From Day 1 to Show size! 

Omg same 😂

Same ate 😆

Am also , same

same HAHAHAHA

Thank you, happy to hear you find this video useful. Thank you for your support 🙏.

Thank you 🙏.

Thank you for your reaction 🙏.

Thank you for watching and leaving a comment. With respect to your question on tanksize there is not one universal answer which applies to all. My own tanks are relatively small (~30L). But my spawns are divided over multiple tanks (often based on the size of the fry) in order to prevent the tanks from being too crowded. In order to get an impression of how I chance water in my Betta Territory, please have a look at the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zEGMtBiRZ84.html I hope this information is useful to you.

Solid

Congratulations on your first spawn. You can find the answers to your questions in the following article on my website: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT-Breedingmain.htm I hope this is of any help. Good luck raising your fish.

It's a little late for trying to do things right. It sounds like you weren't prepared to breed them. Big mistake

How did the hatching go?

Thank you so much for your comment, excited to read this 🙏. I feed my fish twice a day (morning and evening).

@@BettaTerritory Thank you brother for responding so quickly . Thanks to people like you that take this hobby to a whole new level . Hats off to you . Aloha . 😁🙏

Thank you 🙏.

Thank you. Happy to hear this video is useful to you.

@@BettaTerritory Absolutely. Unfortunately, I had to tell my daughter that her betta Frosty won’t get any bigger. 😂

Same feeling

Can we get an update please.. how did you manage 200 fry... Did they all survive??

Bettas are solitary animals which in their natural habitat live in shallow pools which are often poor in oxygen. It therefore is no problem to keep Bettas in smaller (nano)aquaria ranging from 2-30 liter as long as they are kept at constant temperature and provided with quality food and regular water changes. Square aquaria/jars are preferred above round bowls/jars. It is not advisable to keep a male together with one or multiple females for a longer time. Off course exceptions always exist but in general this will lead to unnecessary stress and damage due to chasing and fights. In case you want to breed Bettas it is highly recommended to prepare a seperate spawning tank and to gather all information possible in order to know what to expect and to prevent dissapointments.

I saw a large indoor pond that a person had built in his home on Reddit. He said it was 100+ gallons. It was built like a koi pond in the floor. It was planted with a lot of aquatic and semi-aquatic plants. He said he keeps two male and five female bettas. I do not know if this works out, and I'm not recommending it... but he seemed pretty experienced.

Betta Imbellis (Peaceful Betta) can be kept in groups.

I don’t think u can

People have done it. There's a RU-vidr who has like a 75 gallon densely planted with 2 males and multiple females, but I can't quite remember her name.

What food are you using and how old are the fry?

How did it go? That was a year ago....

Great to hear that! Bettas are just amazing fish and can not imagine a life without them anymore.

I love steel blue too ❤👍!

Thank you for asking your question. The fry are raised together up to the point where the first males start to become territorial. It is therefore important to closely observe the behaviour of your fish. Personally I usually jar my fish at an age of 2,5-4 months (depending on growth rate/development and behaviour), see 4:50 min in the video. I hope this answers your question?

@@BettaTerritory I have a question too do males and females fight with each other too?

@@prashantpatil6013 females don't but some males will but if you want to keep a female and a male together you must have 2 females also make sure you have alot of hiding spots for the female if you have only one female the male might chase the female and it will be stressed Also you need 10 to 20 gallon tank

With good care (e.g. quality water, frequent water changes, quality food and a constant temperature) the majority of a spawn will survive.

@vredeling Thank you for your support 🙏. How old are your fry at the moment?

About 35 days freeswimming now. They're different sizes, but you can already see a stretched blatter on the big ones (1- 1.5cm). They also have black horizontal stripe alrdy. The smaller ones I can see the blatter still about 25% or so. But with daily observation I never saw one fry developing but struggling to swim upright? Kept me wondering...

What would you like to know more about? There videos might be of your interest: - How to change water: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zEGMtBiRZ84.html - How to move fry to the grow-out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w2SjJrkHjac.html - Fry food: ru-vid.com/group/PLUJF09hw7hlJFdT4FrNmQthmn0MiqtK-T

Happy to hear that, thank you 🙏.

results?

This video shows the average size of my spawns at the various stages of development, some spawns grow faster, others slower. Many factors can be of influence here (like temperature, number of fry, etc.). When you can observe the fry is eating and that they show growth I would not worry too much. What are you feeding them?

I mainly aim to breed selfbred fish but sometimes purchase new fish. When you consider to breed your fish make sure you are well prepared and that your fish are in optimal condition: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT-Breedingmain.htm

Thank you 🙏

Welcome 😊

Thank you for your taking the time to leave a comment. In general I feed by fish usually two times a day (morning and evening). I do not use any filtration in my spawning tanks, I add a small sponge filter when the fry are about 4 weeks of age. I have no experience with feeding grindal worms myself. Good luck raising your fry.

@@BettaTerritory thank you! Follow up on it - what about air ? Do you use air stone at any point? And what about light? How long is fry has lights? Read studies that light 24-7 helps fish to grow faster and stronger

No

@@KILLERGAMING-zg5dy yes

Thank you for your kind message 🙏. Happy to hear you liked the video.

New subscriber here Sir. My son is actually the one who is trying his luck on breeding bettas. First time trying to pair and luckily the eggs now are starting to show its tail.

Welcome on board Catherine & Son! Nice to hear your son is attempting to spawn his pair. Regarding your question, I personally remove the male as soon as the fry starts to swim horizontally, the so-called free-swimming stage. This usually is 2-3 days after hatching. This is also the time I start feeding the fry. More on how to spawn Bettas in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yjTQB8qHrBE.html I hope this information is useful to you. Have fun & good luck.

I second that question ...🤔

The fish in this video are steel blue. When the head is not colored they are referred to as 'black head' when the head is also (partially) colored steel blue they are referred to as 'mask'. I hope this answers your question?

It is no problem to feed infusoria for the first days (like I use vinegar eels in the video) after the fry has absorbed the yolksac and entered the free-swimming days. But I would advise to feed newly hatched BBS after that to provide more nutrition.

I feed two times, once in the morning (7-8h am) before I go to work and in the evening (22-23h).

@@BettaTerritory thanks 😊

Depending on the growth rate Bettas already can be sexually active at 2-3 months of age. Personally I however would not recommend to breed our fish at such a young age. Although our fish are growing throughout their whole life most of them usually are reasonably developed around at 5-6 months of age. Certain important characteristics, both positive and negative, are not visible in young fish but only appear when a fish reaches maturity. Some examples are for instance vitality, overall balance, fin curling, ability to hold their finnage, susceptibility and resistance for disease, rosetail influence, fin curling, etc. So it is important to keep in mind that when breeding fish at a young stage,there is a risk to overlook certain important characteristics you might not want to fix in your line. I hope this information is useful to you.

Personally I have no experience with feeding this, but some breeders indeed use egg yolk in the first days. Overfeeding can polute the tank very fast so be careful with this.

@@BettaTerritory okay,thank u for ur advice sir👍🤩

This can vary a bit from spawn to spawn. They are probably looking for food. What are you feeding them?

Thank you for your support 🙏.

Sorry for the late reply. I think all hobbyists encounter these problems from time to time. In my opinion this problem is caused by the fact that the swimbladder is not fully stretched towards the peduncle. In young fish it is easy to watch the development of the swimbladder. In the first 3-6 weeks, the swimbladder need to stretch itself along the spine from the stomach towards the peduncle. When this does not happen, it will be impossible for the fish to swim properly and you will get a so-called belly slider. I personally do not think it is genetic but more an environmental thing related to feeding. In some cases SBD solves itself in young bettas in the first month, but when the fish gets older to my experience the chance of solving this is nearly zero. By altering the feeding regimen I think I have quite good results so far in solving this in the first few weeks. By seperating the youngsters affected with SBD at a young age and by feeding them very minimally with chopped tubifex I have gained good experiences. Yes, their growth will be a bit slower initially but in my own experience they usually will catch completely when their swimbladder has recovered (read: stretched towards the peduncle). This can take 2-3 weeks. So oberserve them closely for the coming time. In the following video you can see how I 'cut/chop' the tubifex at 1:15 min. This method also works with live or frozen blood worms: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1OEXIk7sOJE.html Hope this is of any help to you. Good luck 🤞!

@@BettaTerritory Thanks so much for replying! Very useful info

Exactly that is what I mention in this video 😉.

Depending on the growthrate, Bettas already can be spawned at 3-4 months of age. But personally I want my fish to be fully developed before I spawn. At 3-4 months most young fish look very balanced, but I also want them to be balanced throughout their entire lives. I therefore personally spawn my fish usually between 7-12 months of age. More on this here: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT-AABselectivebreeding.htm

Thank you for watching 🙏.

I personally feed my fish two times per day.

In general I feed my fish twice a day (morning and evening).

@@BettaTerritory thanks for replying!

Thank you 🙏

This will depend on the growth and the behaviour of the fish. Personally I prefer to jar my fish as big as possible but off course you will have to keep an eye on their behaviour. When a male becomes too dominant it is time to jar. I jarred the first fish from the fry in this video around 3 months of age (see the section at 4:50 of the video).

Betta Territory okay I really rally appreciate it I just Jared mine and hopefully come out

Maybe for selling? Or maybe because you can’t keep males together so he didn’t have space?

How to ideally keep a Betta male can be a difficult discussion with many different opinions. Personally I think one should distuingish here between "What does a Betta really need" and "What do people think a Betta really needs" 😉. In their natural habitat Bettas live in shallow streams and puddles of stagnant water with a slighlty acidic pH. They often can be found in locations with very little water volume. For more information I would advise the following article: www.reef2rainforest.com/2014/03/26/amazonas-videos-bettas-in-the-wild-what-they-tell-us-about-minimum-tank-sizes-for-bettas/?fbclid=IwAR1gkM2gKtiL8CYx2AJHjv9rMkgThnls4AzsVyWFeikH0B_CuKIQALNC-W0 How can we see if a Betta is stressed or not happy? Observation is the key here! For me a healthy, vital Betta is a Betta which shows a smooth scaling on the body, no clamped/sticky finnage, is fully colored (no stress), well-fed (not too fat), is active and responds to its own mirror-image and/or neighbouring fish by actively flaring (erecting finnage, wiggling body, opening gills). Everything of this will not be represented in a stressed or unhealthy fish. When keeping Betta males one has to realize that they are solitary fish and should never ever be housed together once they have been seperated from their grow-out tanks. A constant temperature, good waterquality, quality food and a good care are very important here. Personally I keep my fish in bare-bottomed 2,5-3,5 Liter jars of which I change 40-60% of the water every other day. My fish are healthy, vital and in top condition. They perform well at international shows but also in the spawning tank. I observe my fish every day and rarely encounter sick fish and rarely use any medication.

The grow-out tanks I use are custom made for my set-up. Their dimensions are 42x42x20 cm. Larger spawns are divided over multiple tanks.

The fish in the video are from two different spawns which grew up together. Here a link to their full spawn-logs: - www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819A.htm - www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819C.htm

It is not necesarry to breed a female when she is full of eggs. She will either release them (unfertile off course) or they will be absorbed in the body. It is important to prevent females from fattening up as this can cause them to become egg bound. With respect to mixing tailtypes this is no problem, although the offspring will likely be an in-between form which do not match any of the showstandards. This might be something to keep in mind when breeding. Hope this answer is of any help.

@@BettaTerritory thanks for replying again. I wasn't planning to breed my bettas, but I got worried after reading from some articles that the female would die if she's not allowed to breed.. So no breeding for her then, as you wrote that she will either lay them unfertilized or absorbed the eggs back.

I have mentioned the food I use per stage of development in this video. I hope this is useful to you.

SkwaterNDCondo thank you for the support & the response 🙏. Good luck!

Thank you 🙏. At 1:05 min of the video the fry has entered the free swimming stage, I then feed vinegar eels and newly hatched BBS. Usually the fry will start eating BBS without problems but it also is depending on the size of the BBS and the size of the fry (don't breed your fish too young/immature).

Happy to hear you enjoyed the video 🙏. For more information about the fry food I use, click here: ru-vid.com/group/PLUJF09hw7hlJFdT4FrNmQthmn0MiqtK-T

Thank you for asking your question. The fry are raised together up to the point where the first males start to become territorial. It is therefore important to closely observe the behaviour of your fish. Personally I usually jar my fish at an age of 2,5-4 months (depending on growth rate/development and behaviour), see 4:50 min in the video. I hope this answers your question?

This will depend on your location and equipment. Personally I located in the Netherlands (Europe) with warm summers but cold winters. I am breeding in an insulated shed in my garden where all tanks have heaters & covers to maintain a stable temperature (to prevent fluctuations). This means I can breed througout the year.

Thank you for your comment 🙏. I feed vinegar eels, BBS, tubifex, blood worms and granulate. In the video I mentioned.what I feed per stage.

@@BettaTerritory thanku🥰 so much

@@BettaTerritory I didn't recognized about that cos I was so satisfied by the method you did But what about the water?! A kinda leaf think so

Here is a video on how I change water and with what frequency: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zEGMtBiRZ84.html

You should start feeding the fry when they have entered the free-swimming stage when the yolk-sac has been fully absorbed. Usually 2-3 days after hatching. Personally I use vinegar eels and newly hatched BBS for this.

Normally yes but this also depends on genetics and care (read: temperature, food quality & frequency, waterquality and frequency of waterchanges).

@@BettaTerritory every other day water change and twice a day feeding. Live food treats once a day.

@@chesterjeffbagunas4977 sounds like a good approach 💪. Good luck!

Usually there are no big problems or big losses in my spawns. Sometimes smaller fry are eaten by bigger siblings, but when I have the space available I try to seperate/divide the fry of a spawn based on size over multiple tanks. So the majority survives.

kk

play a video of how to water change of 2 weeks old betta fry

Gorge tops nice to read your enthousiastic reaction, thank you 🙏.

Yes in order to promote a good development and to prevent damage, males should be individually housed. Personally I seperate them when they start showing dominant behaviour and become agressive to siblings in the grow-out tank.

Thank you for leaving a comment 🙏. The fish in this video are from two spawns and that could be mixed as they have distinct colors which makes them easy to trace back from which spawn they come from. In order to promote a better grow-out fish of both spawns where housed together and divided over several grow-out tank. The fish shown in these videos are from: - BT270819A: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819A.htm - BT270819C: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819C.htm

Thank you Vanessa 🙏. Nice to hear you have two Bettas youself. How often you should change their water is also depending on the way you keep them (housing and feeding frequency). Personally keep my individually housed fish in bare 2.5-3L jars on a constant temperature (some are in a drip system). Here I siphon the bottom and change 40-60% of the water every 2-4 days. Can you tell me a bit more about how they are housed and how often and what you are feeding them?

Betta Territory my first betta is in a 2.5 gallon tank and the 2nd one is in a 5 gallons. Both tanks have aquaplants in the hope to make them happy. I feed them atleast once or twice a day. I use the maxflo pellet in the morning like 6 to 8 pcs then late after noon i would give them tubifex worm (freeze dried).. For the water, i use tap water 💦 and then i would drop some methylene blue (drops would be according to their tank size) and then i always make sure they have talisay dried leave.

Thank you 🙏!

There are many different Betta species. These can not all be interbred. The species within the Betta splendens complex (Betta splendens, imbellis, mahachaiensis, smaragdina and stiktos) can be interbred although not all crosses will result in viable offspring. Domesticated Betta splendens or showbettas exist in many different color- and finnagevariations. These can be mixed although responsible breeders only do these crosses with a certain goal (improvement of color/form and/or the development of a new variation). I hope this answers your question a bit?

Yes, they are Halfmoon Plakat (HMPK).

@@BettaTerritory Thanks for letting me know. I'm trying to place the sex and age of a juvenile betta I got, and wasn't sure whether these were a good benchmark to use.

There always will be breeders with a different method and/or faster growth. As mentioned many factors are at play here besides food type and frequency of feeding. This video shows the average development of my spawns and I am happy with this development. My fish grow out to be vital, healthy big fish (bodysize 4.5-5 cm as an adult) within 5-7 months of age.

Me in the more favorable condition in terms of weather, food, water... As i live in vietnam so i totally understand how difficult a breeder may face in non-tropical places. Thanks for making the clips.

With good care and feeding quality foods most of the fry will survive. It is impossible to say anything regarding male/female ratio per spawn. On average it will approach 50/50 when you would average results of a large number of spawns. But in individual spawns this will vary with sometimes extremes of 100% males and 100% females.

Put them in a bigger tank they produce three ones which stops the growth of others around them in small spaces

Thank you for watching 🙏! Happy to hear you found the video useful.

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment 🙏.

Thank you 🙏.

In the video I mention what I feed the fry per stage on the slides introducing the new stage. Hope this answers your question.

This depends on the room tempetaturr and how constant the temperature is in the tank. Personally I am located in the Netherlands and always add a heater in order to prevent large fluctuations in temperature (day/night, but also seasonal).

The fry featured in this video are from two spawns: - BT270819A - Yellow HMPK male x darkbody yellow HMPK female: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819A.htm - BT270819C - Platinum white HMPK male x steel blue HMPK female: www.bettaterritory.nl/BT270819C.htm The color of the offspring is depending on the genetic traits the parents are carrying and how they are inherited. More information on this can be found in the following videos: - Part I: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PfZXwwKHI68.html - Part II: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b6aPCk_e7lE.html

Thank you for your question 🙏. With shortfinned (plakat) fish the males can be distuingished from the females by their dominant behaviour, a slightly different bodyshape, slightly longer/more voluminous finnage and a bigger beard (gills). Observation is the key in this process but even experienced hobbyists are not flawless here 😉.

Thank you 🙏!

@@BettaTerritory you are welcome

Try feeding them crushed egg yolk but make sure to clean your tank afterwards cause it makes the water dirty and cloudy.

But how to change water, as the baby fry are so small, i have the same problem in my city live food or brine shrimp is not available, I used to give baby's crushed hikari & blood worms. Still thay look like 4-5 day old as how today they are the age of 34 days. Plz do reply

I don't think it's a good idea to put fry together with adult bettas

Thank you 🙏.

This material is Eheim Fix. It is normally used in mechanical filters. In my spawning and grow-out tanks it does not have a filter function, but it provides a hide-out for my fish.

@@lilgee6766 thank you for watching, I hope the video was usefull for you 🙏.