Very helpful, as always. A lot of good frames have been thrown away because of a stuck seat post. Having removed the seat post it's probably worth taking a look at the seat clamp too. I know it's possible to remove a stuck seat post using caustic soda (lye) or various tools (none of which are designed for that specific purpose) but this is a practical example of why prevention is better than cure! A short and simple job that is done all too rarely. Cheers, Tony.
Nice video Tony. I used to use a little of grease on the seatpost, but with grease the torque on the seatpost clamp it has to be much higher. So i started to use Shimano anti seize. i use 4N.m. on my clamp and the seatpost never slipped again: ).
Anti seize is a good alternative to grease on all material (except carbon) although I prefer Fiber Grip - just a personal preference. Fiber Grip and similar fiber carbon compounds contains small particles that compress when torqued and secures the component at the lower end of the manufacturers torque specs. Thanks for your input; it's always helpful. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
note never use carbon paste near bearings i.e the headset. . a nice way to make sure the saddle is in line is to use a piece of string from the center of the head set back over the saddle
Thanks for the tips Sid. I use a carpenters level for the saddle. Not all riders want the saddle completely flat. Some racers like it pointed down just a bit. The level gives me an accurate reading. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
If you don't have Fiber Grip, you can use lithium grease on the seat post, clamp and bolt. Tighten to manufacturers specs (you may need to consult the internet to find the correct specifications for you seat post bolts). This is what we have don't before the advent of Fiber Grip. The Fiber Grip is just an added new feature and is not absolutely essential. If you still get slippage of the post with the grease, it is possible the diameter of the post may be too small for the seat tube. Seat posts can vary in size by mere millimeters.
@@tony10speed ok taht means lithium not adversely impact alloy and my frame and seatpost of different materials alloy and steel respectively. Can lithium Grease create some grip or friction?
@@mimusixmix6163 The grease keeps the post from seizing up from rust or corrosion (allowing one to remove the post when needed). Cleaning and greasing the quick release will allow it to close and tighten properly (hopefully holding the seatpost at the correct height).
Great videos Tony. You are a very practical mechanic for our cycling needs. Question: I have a carbon bike with a seatpost that is no longer sold by the vendor due to its age (2011). One of the seatpost bolts (two of them that connect to the saddle) broke the carbon fiber and disengaged while riding. There isnt much carbon material to begin with in this area. If the post was round, I could hold it in place with a hose clamp, but its not round. Carbon fiber repair shops will not repair seatposts (I checked with one in my state). I want to do my own repair and add some carbon fiber with epoxy to reinforce this area. I have little to no experience with this. Any suggestions whether you recommend a fiber shop that might repair this post, any videos you would point me to, or any repair options you would suggest?? I have maintained the bike and would hate to lay it aside because of this issue. Kind regards PS: this issue points ot the fact that if you own older bikes, it might be a great idea to order parts before they may fail. I did not do that and I'm having a difficult time locating a post, even preowned.
I do not recommend you attempt to fix the carbon post yourself. If it breaks completely while riding, the result could be catastrophic. Off hand, I don't know of a shop in my area of the country that will repair the seatpost. You might search the internet for such a shop. The other option is to search on Ebay and see if your can find an exact match. Things come and go on Ebay it may take searches over time. I wish I could be of more help. Tony
I highly appreciate you help. I have found some silicone grease and thermal pase on internet. Are these alternative for carbon assembly paste to provide grip against slippage and overtightening of Quick release clamp. Thanks.
No. Silicone grease is similar to your lithium grease. Thermal paste is used on computers to allow transfer of heat from an active devise to a "heat sink."
Heading to my bike shop. I called and they said they have something called FSA (Full Speed Ahead). They said it's a small little packet kind of like bulb grease and an auto parts store. $2, so it's worth trying. If this fixes the problem then we'll be satisfied.
They are probably referring to FULL SPEED AHEAD LUBE FSA INSTALLATION PASTE 5G PACKET F/CARBON which is similar to Fiber Grip in preventing slippage. If that's the product, it should help - provided the seat post is the correct size. The seat post diameters vary in .2mm increments. If the post is too small, no paste will help. If the diameter is too large, the post won't fit. This will be the subject of another video. So check with the bike store (if the paste doesn't work) to make sure the post is the right diameter. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Both are 27.2 size. I did get that paste and just put it in. And it has seemed to have done the job. My boys are both now riding around the block on new to them used craigslist purchases! 😁 I still have some gear adjustments to do, but I tightened up all the things they needed to be able to safely ride. I understand the concept but on the other hand I never would have thought that a paste like that would be needed. I imagine now with so many manufacturers and tolerances not always being held as closely frome one to the other, that assembly aids like this paste become more and more necessary.
Yes, you do need to grease the post, or, over time, corrosion and/or rust may prevent you from rising, lowering or replacing the post. You can you any grease on hand (ParkTool PolyLube, Phil Wood Waterpoof, or even axle grease from your local NAPA store. My personal preference is Fiber Grip. Although used specifically for carbon fiber, it works great for both aluminum and titanium also. It has small particle that are compressed as you tighten the seat tube collar allowing you to use the lower end of the torque range specifications for the seat post and prevent overtightening. Good question. Regards, Tony
@@HealthyLiv1ng I have not work much with the Dahon post. Using the post as a bike pump is a great idea. But the post still needs to be greased before insertion in the seat tube.
Can you please address a problem I’ve recently started having with my De Rosa Giro road bike. Periodically and while riding, the rear wheel will shift in the drop out and pin to the left chain stay. The tire rubs off a little paint but that’s the extent of damage. This typically happens under pressure...standing on pedals. I’ve tightened the quick release but that has not remedied the problem. I recently had the frame re-painted and someone had mentioned I need to score the drop out? Can you please comment and advise?. Thanks Dave
The most likely culprit is that the wheel axle is not centered, i.e., the number of threads that protrude from the axle on each side is not the same as explained in the following forum: www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/956824-rear-wheel-slipping-dropout.html Also see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0MHBHFu4CrA.html The skewer needs to be removed, the bolts on each side of the axle loosened, and the axle repositioned such that the same number of treads appear on both sides before tightening the axle. Your local bike shop can help you with this (I can't find any good videos to explain the process nor have made such a video myself). Interestingly, I've seen this on an occasional new wheel, just put together improperly. Regards, Tony
No. It's just a matter of personal preference. For shorter cyclist who are putting their bike on a stand, you'll need to raise the seat to clamp the post in the work stand. Here's where the tape comes in handy. You know immediately how much to lower your seat post and clamp it. Regards, Tony
The most important point to getting a good quick release is to match it to the outer diameter of the seat tube, not the eat post (use a good quality caliper). See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w4nga7XNprU.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eR-HyxxmpJ8.html and www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/seatpost-clamp-measurement-guide Here are some seatpost collar reviews: www.findthisbest.com/best-bike-seat-clamps and top10best.how/quick-release-bike-seat-clamp?Google&Search&t_source=64&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6_CYBhDjARIsABnuSzp3e0y5RWy3lsM2nwNUFM2zHOmZuZ4TlaAJF6g1DPfNABzMArFriLAaApjlEALw_wcB Hope this helps. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hi Tony what bike repair stand do you have or recommend? I have a floor stand but tricky to clean bike properly with the wheels on the ground. When I pedal it backwards to clean chain sometimes the chain comes off so need both wheels off the ground to pedal it forwards. Thanks Josh
My stand is a 25 year old all metal Park Tool Repair Stand - no longer made. I've been asked this question before and your best bet is to invest the money in something like Park Tool PCS-9.2 Home Mechanic Bicycle Repair Stand or the more expensive Feedback Sports Pro Elite Repair Stand, both available through Amazon. Bikehand also makes a repair stand that looks good but I have no experience with it. As far as buying a cheap work stand - you get what you pay for. Good equipment is the essence of good repair. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
It's not the lubricant. Can't be sure why the saddle doesn't fit without taking a look at the seatpost attachment and saddle. Your best bet is to take it to a local bicycle store and have it checked out.
Thanks. Am not able to find fiber grip or silicon grease. I have normal grease , lube oil and wd 40. To my surprise my new alloy mtb with steel seatpost the quick release was fairly tight but to my surprise I just found that it slipped a bit. . Also some white powder on seat post may be oxidised I will grease the inside of QR clamp so that it Can easily fits on alloy frame and also the bolt. But what to do insid of seat tube and seat post. I was reading normal white grease Can counterintuitively create friction. My exixting grease is lithium grease.
Clean the seatpost and clamp and wipe the inside of the seat tube as best you can. Then apply your lithium grease to the seatpost, clamp, and bolt. Make sue that the seatpost quick release is set so that it take the palm of your hand (not just your fingers) to close the lever. If the seatpost quick release fails to keep the seatpost from slipping, it is possible that the seatpost maybe the wrong size (too small). Seatposts can vary by millimeters and you'll need someone with a caliper gauge to check the size of seat tube and your seatpost to make sure they match in diameter. Regards, Tony
Other causes of seatpost slippage include a seatpost clamp too large for the frame, a clamp that's not tightened to manufactures specs, or rust / corrosion of a seatpost quick release clamp which would appear to be tight when closed but the rust / corrosion actually prevent proper clamping and result in seatpost slippage. All correctable with proper cleaning and lubrication.
Here's GNC's take on the subject (although I use Fiber Grip instead of grease on the seat tube and handlebar clamp portion that is in contact with the handlebars but Loctite Blue on the clamp bolts - and also always check manufacturers specs): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mCrY2w7lAlc.html Regards, Tony
Antiseize will work great on titanium. Just a personal preference to use a carbon fiber paste since the small particles in the paste allow of a torque at the lower end of the range and compression of the particle prevents slippage. Good question, thanks. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I can see how Fiber Grip would be great for carbon fiber to titanium interfaces Do you use that on the metal seatpost that's in your Litespeed Classic? My understanding is that titanium contact with another metal (including titanium) can result in a cold-weld or galling, so I've always used Ti-prep (I have a Ti seatpost in a Ti frame).
@@chuckb4375 Another great question. If you remove the seat post each year to clean the post/seat tube/seat clamp, you should have no problem and one can use Fiber Grip or lithium grease. However, if you want to install the seat post (titanium post/titanium frame or steel post/titanium frame) and forget about it, one should use an anti-seize compound. As part of my yearly overhaul, I always include the seat post/pedals/skewers/cassette (remove, clean, re-grease, re-install) in the process. Yearly overhaul will prevent seizing, corrosion and rust as well as keep every component running smoothly. And it doesn't take that long. Regards, Tony
You can but --- on the bikes I've seen that done, the bolt thru the frame may weaken the frame and will cause an annoying creaking. This problem also presents itself when bolt are put thru the handlebars with stems that are the wrong size.
