BIG 3 Upgrade 

To play it safe, I got 0 gauge OFC WIRE....25ft. for positive and 4 ft. for negative from engine to strut tower, then replaced the negative wire from battery to chassis with 1 ft. OFC 0 GAUGE....and thanks for the support and hope this helps.🤝🏾💯

Lol, preciate it. I've been looking for one for ever and found nothing. Glad I could help.

To play it say, get about 25ft of 0 Gauge OFC (Oxygen Free Cable), and i only took off the wheel well liner to do the cable run. I didnt have to remove it to access the alternator on my model vehicle. I accessed mine through the engine bay. Hope this helps🤝🏾

@@DaVerseOfficial damn that seems like a lot of cable. I have a 2014 300c Varvatos edition. I only used maybe 5 feet total to do my amp in the trunk temporarily including ground. I’m planning on 2/0 atleast at over $12/ft. I don’t want to buy “extra” if you catch my drift. Cheers

@jvcjbl yeah, from the amp to the trunk battery and ground are short runs, but if you have a mechman ALT, i would definitely run a new Positive from it to the battery. You gotta Pay to Play sometimes....lol, you dont want to get it all complete, and then later on realize" I should've just done it right the first go around..." ...my saying is " Do it Right or Pay It Twice" 👌

@@DaVerseOfficial ​​⁠yes sir. Been installing since 2001. Competed professionally back then as well. Just out of the loop on all the new stuff. Runningvv 2/0 from alt to battery and probably to distribution. Cheers bro

@jvcjbl thats awesome man, and yeah, technology is always changing, i remember when things were simple to setup, now everything is so complex and integrated into the dash to where the cars whole brain is ran by it..but yeah, im here if you need me. Cheers bro 🤝🏾🫡

Didn't need to run an extra ground from block to battery because I already ran a 1/0 from block/alternator to ground on chassis, and from battery to chassis I ran 1/0 as well.

I just have the stock alternator. I want to upgrade later on to a mechman though...and as far as voltage drop, if the car is started and it's going below 12 volts at idle, something isn't hooked up right, or something seems faulty with the alternator...but more than likely something isn't hooked up correctly IMHO🤷🏾‍♂️

Or it could also be your battery...let your car sit for a few hours without starting it or using radio or anything, pop the trunk and test just your batteries voltage...if it's resting below 12.6 volts u may have a bad battery, and if you start the car and it goes lower, your battery is definitely bad and needs replacing ASAP. I'd start there first.🤝🏾👍🏾

Yeah I testes the batteries ibha e and also bought a charger just in case and charged them fully. I put my stock alt back on and not having the ae symptoms not sure what the reason. I did 2 out of the big 3 battery to chassis and engine ground block. I was told I didn't ha e to do the alt to battery since there was already 0 gauge until I seen your video showing it splices to 8.

My fault not testes but rather tested lmao 🤣

Since the cars so new I been triiping on taking the carpet out to run the wire. What's the cleanest easiest way to run if you don't mind me asking?

@bball39us it honestly helps out a lot...i dont know why mopar decided to use different gauged wires from point A to B....easiest way for people to understand the electrical system in mopar vehicles is basically like gluing a Water hose to a straw, back to a water hose, to a pvc tube, back to a straw, then try to wash your car...the water flow will be inconsistent...lolol, that's what your voltage is doing nonstop. So doing this solves that issue.

Congrats on the 392 Daytona bro🤝🏾, but just tell your mechanic to watch this video...lol, but in short, you need - 25ft. Of OFC(Oxygen Free Cable) to run from ALTERNATOR to Trunk battery. -2 ft. Of OFC 0 gauge to run from trunk fuse panel to battery. -1½ - 2ft. Of OFC 0 gauge to run from negative battery terminal to car chassis in trunk. -4ft. Of OFC 0 gauge to run from engine block to negate car chassis in the engine bay. That pretty much should sum it up, hope this helps.🤝🏾👌

Where you bought your alternator?

@Myautolifestyle glad i was able to help. I try to make it easy for people to follow so they wont have to trial and error.

@@DaVerseOfficial definitely appreciated.

Also how much wire did you use to run your fuse box to ground?

@NasteyNate yes, 40ft should be more than enough to do everything...and to run from the fuse box in trunk to battery POSITIVE, it was 1-2 ft.

@@DaVerseOfficial would you say 35 is still enough? Also what size lugs did you use? Im gunna diy this and its my first time lol. I know ill need some heatshrink as well. Also what size fuse did you use?

@NasteyNate i used a 0gauge lug size...and 35 ft. Is still enough as long as you dont make any mistakes. Lol. Just make sure to take your time and pre run your wire before cutting.

I personally changed it for 2 reasons....#1- I wanted to use OFC (Oxygen Free Cable), and #2 I didnt want to worry about corrosion on the bolts, or hardware coming loose under the floor board mats. Doing it this way ensured me none of that would happen, and if i was to get rid of the car, the factory wiring is still present and in tact. Hope this helps.🫱🏽‍🫲🏾💯

@@DaVerseOfficial perfect answer- thank you very much for replying and for the great video.

@@seansean8008 Anytime boss, i try to help as much as i can🫱🏽‍🫲🏾💯

Lol, yeah, if your not on a completely flat surface and the E BRAKE isn't on, it's going to collapse unexpectedly...lol, happened to me twice when changing a tire a while back. Lol

💯❤️🤝🏾 I try to stay active and help whoever I can...thanks for the support seriously, it keeps me motivated to keep helping out...but yeah to answer your question, I ran the positive and negative straight to the battery, then I ran the accessory wire to the trunks fuse panel. You want to run that wire to a fuse that turns on only when ignition is turned on. I just wanted things to be clean and easy plug and play incase I had to remove things quickly one day, hence why I didn't run it straight to the ignition wire in the steering column. Here is a variety of fuse taps in one pack you can get from Amazon that can still utilize your fuse for whatever given fuse position you choose. MuHize 4 Types 12V Add-a-Circuit Adapter and Fuse Kit - Fuse Tap Fuse Holder with MICRO2 Mini ATC ATS Low Profile Tap dapter for Cars Trucks Boats (12 Pack) a.co/d/6OBHzHN

You're doing great fam!!🤝🏾💯....It's hard to find a video where someone responds, in detail, to every comment. No negativity, no trying to make people feel belittled for asking something that they don't know. Plus, you know what you're talking about, because I always do extended research, and there were no flaws in your video, or your responses. Greatly appreciated.. Hats off to you!! 🙌🏾 One more question, for now.. lol. Positive and negative to the main battery or the audio battery? I got a XS Power D3400. Btw: Clean set-up in your trunk fam!!! 💪🏾 That's what I need a video on👀😆

@Ronnie Bladez your words are greatly appreciated 🙏🏾🤝🏾❤️. And to answer your second question, that all depends on what voltage your trying to monitor...but in most cases you want to monitor your secondary battery/car audio setups voltage. Most cars have a voltage meter display in the dashboards cluster, but it depends on your cars year. SO in short, I would put the positive and negate to your secondary battery, that way you can also monitor IF it's getting a charge from your alternator as well...also another piece of advice, make sure both batteries are the same type...meaning the xs d3400 is gel cell, make sure your cars battery is gel cell as well, and not liquid cell...not a huuuuge factor, but one battery will be draining the other instead of working with it to give your total setup its best chance at performing.

Wow! Are you a professional installer? Lol. That's key information!! I think I ran across that info, about the batteries matching, a while back and payed it no attention because I think my main battery is a liquid cell. It's a Duralast Gold. Again, thank you for your information and great content my friend. Greatly appreciated! 🙌🏾🤝🏾🤎💯

@Ronnie Bladez no, I'm no professional installer by any means, I just have years of experience trial and erroring with different projects and learning along the way trying to figure out what works best in my different vehicles applications...wasted a lot of money through the years because a lot of people want to charge for help, and I get it, everyone gotta eat, but man, paying to get help with the basics or a starting point...couldn't do it, so now that I have the knowledge I have today, I help anyone with intricate details to help em out...Can't take this stuff or knowledge with me when I'm gone, so...HELP OUT THE NEXT PERSON...at the end of the day, I get my blessing from God, not charging people for basic knowledge/starting points. My bad I'm rambling...lol. anytime you need something I'm here, or hit me on IG - DaVerseOfficial

@StillStandin i just wanted everything to be the same size honestly, and to ensure there were no bottleneck points in my electrical system

@DaVerseOfficial Man, thanks for the quick response. I've pretty much done everything you did in your video, except I ran my 0 guage to the bolt point on the passenger side. Same place as the original 0 guage, so in theory, it's 0 guage coming from alt to stock 0 guage on passengerside which should equal 0 guage to 0 guage. The only thing is I do not see a voltage increase. I'm still resting at about 13.9/14 volts at idle, which I was already seeing before this big 3 upgrade. Do you have any idea if that bolt point is the issue?

@StillStandin no problem, i try to respond quick as possible....but yeah, that point might be the bottleneck point just because of the bolt type used by manufacturer...if the bolt was brass, you might see a voltage increase, but that was the reason why i ran a a solid 0gauge from battery to alternator, just so i didnt run into that problem.

@DaVerseOfficial Yeah I figure. I'm going to change it tomorrow and go directly to my battery and see if I see a difference. That damn ofc 0 g wiring is expensive asf. I definitely want to test that it'll work before I go taking them seats and stuff out again 😮‍💨. I literally just put it all back yesterday.

@StillStandin its exhausting bro, i know the feeling, but my motto is " Do it Right, or Pay it Twice"

I should add that I had a system already in the car and it didn’t buzz, but I had bad electrical so I watched your video and did the big 3 to try and help. It was only after the big 3 that the buzzing started. Could it be a ground wire or maybe because I didn’t upgrade the fuse wire?

Preciate the love man. Well....honestly it could be a couple of things....the first thing I would say is that when you upgrade your wire to 0 gauge it will conduct energy more like a signal booster....if your RCA cables are anywhere ran in the same path or near any of the 0 gauge wires, it will make a buzz noise...also I would 0 gauge the fuse panel wire from the battery to the fuse box as I did in my video. Having really good noise reduction RCA cables will help as well. I used the Stinger brand that was a little pricey. If you have a " LOC(Line Output Converter) ", I would check that just to make sure your input voltage isn't set to high...but most of the time the buzzing is due to the speaker wire or RCA being too close to any of the zero gauge wires in my experience. Hope this helps.💯❤️

Thanks man I will go over it again, I appreciate the super fast reply! Your the man!

@Tyler Matasich no worries boss...anytime you need help, I'm here.

I appreciate the support🤝💯❤️....and thats awesome man, i know shes gonna be happy with the end result...but to answer your question, i believe their all wired the same if the battery is in the trunk...my nephew had a 2008 chrysler 300, and its the same wiring as my chrysler 300...just make sure to do one thing at a time, and step by step....its simple but easy to forget minor details if overlooked or trying to multitask. But yeah, im here if you need any other assistance.💯🤝❤️

Lol, your right, that bottle neck is serious...but you can ground multiple things to where i grounded the ALTERNATOR. I did on my car and everything still ran smoothly

No problem bro, anytime I can help, I try....and as far as heat shield, I used wire loom just more so for aesthetics.... but here's a link for it. Alex Tech 10ft - 3/4 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving For USB Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable - Protect Cat From Chewing Cords - Black a.co/d/fHrEvgW

@@DaVerseOfficial Thanks!! I'm ordering this now👍🏾

@@cdubbflow4206 no problem. 💯🤝🏾

Yes, that way if something happens you want to sell the car or make some type of changes, you can still do so and the car will still function as it normally did.

Glad you stumbled across my video but even more so glad that it helped you out. I really appreciate the feedback and support💯❤️🤝

💯% Correct bro. Yeah i had 2 chargers and the chrysler 300 and their wired the same. Hope the video helps when you do yours.💯❤️🤝. And thanks for the support.

Thanks. Once I build one, I get bored of it and rebuild another. Lol

I don't believe through the factory whole it would fit, but you could possibly bore out the hole with the tool that I used in the video and it would definitely fit then, you just would have to get a 4/0 grommet to use to keep everything sealed. Hope this helps💯🤝

0 gauge OFC WIRE : 25ft. for positive wire running from trunk battery (+) to alternators positive wire....and 4 ft. for negative from engine block to strut tower, then I replaced the negative wire from battery to chassis located in the trunk with 1 ft. OFC 0 GAUGE WIRE. I also ran a 1½ ft. O GAUGE WIRE from the trunks fuse panel to the (+) battery terminal( replacing the smaller wire that was already on it.

Conextlink 5pcs Waterproof IP68 Nylon Firewall Bushing Grommet Cable Gland Joint Adjustable Locknut Protectors for Power Cable (1/0 Gauge, black) www.amazon.com/dp/B07SSXSP7X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8ASTNVM4WMEZXW332RZ9

Yea, someone asked that on here...lol, but thanks for tuning in...it would be safe if you buy 25 feet that way if you choose to take a alternative route, you'll have more than enough rather than barely enough. 💯🤝🏾👍🏾

Thanks bro 🙌🏾

@@Itscrock no problem💯🤝🏾

I used plastic pry tools to get the fender liner off, you can get some from Harbor Freight Tools or Amazon for cheap, never use a metal flathead screwdriver...and I kept the factory Alternator wire and wire run connected and just added my big 3 to it, that way if something happens you want to take it off, you still have 1 connected.

It's good to leave it on.

I only did the fuse box in the trunk because the amplifier utilizes the rear fuse for the remote wire. If you want to do the front you can but it's all just preference.

@@DaVerseOfficial thanks, I appreciate the reply even 3 years later. This video was extremely helpful

@Akosa117 no problem, thats what I'm here for. I try to help as much as i can. 💯🫱🏻‍🫲🏾

I bought these terminals from Autozone and also cut the cars default terminal that connects to the battery, and used a copper O ring terminal to be able to work with this... www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal/p/duralast-coated-marine-battery-terminals/257145_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:8366688869&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg6y5j8ro-QIV7hXUAR0uPglWEAQYBCABEgJJ5vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Preciate the love...and I got the grommet and the wire loom from Amazon. I purchased the ½ inch but I would recommend purchasing the 1 inch instead. Alex Tech 25ft - 1/2 inch Cord... www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXF12HC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes I'm in the DFW area. A lot of shops locally do the Big 3 upgrade for a decent price including the OFC WIRE.

@@DaVerseOfficial do you know a good shop? I hope that’s not too much to ask. I’ll pay you if you up to it! I’m in the DFW area too

From a local audio shop, but you can find them on Amazon as well.

What name of them

@@305chevyboysp6 Conextlink 5pcs Waterproof IP68 Nylon Firewall Bushing Grommet Cable Gland Joint Adjustable Locknut Protectors for Power Cable (1/0 Gauge, Black) a.co/d/4yGdyJH

Facts💯🤣...sucks, but I hope I was able to shed some light on the situation with a lil help.

I left the positive factory wiring on the alternator because that wire is what is connected to the front fuse box as well as the positive terminal in the front for jumping car purposes. Hope this helps.👍🏾

@@DaVerseOfficial perfect, yeah i forgot all about that being whats connected to the fuse box and being able to jump the car haha, thanks man. I just got done with the upgrade actually, all the wires there, just waiting on the 300amp alt. Thanks for the video bro, helped alot along with your fast replies.

@@noahc8261 no problem man. Glad I could help..I try to reply quick, but sometimes it may be delayed due to work. Lol. Let me know how things turn out, I'm on IG-DaVerseOfficial

@@DaVerseOfficial yessir, fasho. I got a 300amp alt coming in from JS alternators

It basically helps with smoother current flow...it completes the big 3 upgrade and provides a better ground for the car.

Yes, definitely disconnect the positive and negative from the battery posts, and the black cover I'm guessing your talking about is the shrink tube?...if so, then yes.

@@DaVerseOfficial wouldn’t this be a big 2?

@@Cooties-19 I thought you meant to disconnect the terminals from battery during install of the big 3. 😁. And no its a big 3...(1) battery positive to alternator, (2) battery negative to chassis, (3) negative from engine block/alternator ground to chassis/negative battery terminal.

Yes, I left it connected for the rest of the factory wiring that's tied into it.

Preciate it fam🤝🏾💯

I used a 300A ANL FUSE for the battery. I could've used something smaller, but I didn't want to be dealing with fuses popping and having to replace them incase current draw was higher from time to time. Hope this helps🤝🏾👍🏾

Yes i used an ANL fuse on multiple runs in the audio setup....better safe than sorry.

@@DaVerseOfficial appreciate it brotha ✊🏾

@shannongonewild9717 no problem, just make sure to use a big enough amperage ANL fuse rated to the power of your electrical system so you dont have any failures.

No I didn't use fuses, but if you want to for safety measures, you can, just make sure you use a fuse rating high enough for the current flow your pushing from alt to battery. You can never be too safe

@@DaVerseOfficial has anything happened to yours 😭 I got a Chrysler 300 too

@@darkcryroad6483 no, nothing happened as the chrysler comes factory without a fuse between alt and battery.i just didn't want to have to worry about putting a fuse on it, and the current spiking anytime and popping the fuse, then I would be changing fuses all of the time.

@@DaVerseOfficial ohhhh ok im just going to follow the steps in your vid thank you!!

@@darkcryroad6483 no problem. If u have any other questions, just hit me up on instagram. @DaVerseOfficial

Preciate the support💯❤️🤝🏾

I didn't run a fuse from the alternator to the battery...its good and bad to use one..on one hand, if something happens electrical, it's somewhat safe to prevent damage, but on the other hand, using a fuse will put a bottleneck on the current depending on the fuse rating and then possibly result in current drop as to every breaking point it adds more resistance hence dropping voltage....but honestly each application is different and is really your preference...if your going to use a fuse, I'd advise fusing near the battery in the trunk to prevent moisture and heat in which corrosion might occur. Hope this helps...I sound like a nerd. Hahahaha🤓

Man i run dual 300 mm alts and dual 00 i have 300 amp fuses 12' from the batteries under the hood and 8' from the batteries in the back i average 288 amps at the amps . Always fuse your power wire on both ends . That 15ft wire off the alt becomes a fire stick if it grounds out . The fuse at the battery only protects that 6' eun of wire to it .

@@ALEX-xd7ko facts...better safe than sorry...because I'm running factory alternator, there was no serious need for my application, but if I was going to push more power like your setup, I definitely would fuse it up.💯

Yessir👌🏾

Yes sir💯🤝🏾

I’m having a problem when I start my car when it’s cold the voltage goes up and down causing flickering hoping this will help. Previous owner did the big 3 to the fuse box positive and I don’t think that will help.

@Jonathan Jimenez yea, I would check the ground wire as well, sounds like a positive wire is either touching the ground, or something dealing with your alternator

Preciate it💯❤️🤝🏾

What I did was drill a hole next to the factory grommet in the passenger wheel well and added my own 0 gauge grommet that was weather proof so it wouldnt allow any leaks or moisture. So basically drill a whole first, then grab your 0 gauge wire and run your grommet through the 0 gauge...then your going to run your 0 gauge wire through the hole and give yourself extra slack if need be....then as your pulling it your rubber grommet should just snap in....if you install the grommet right after drilling the hole and THEN try to feed the zero gauge wire, your going to take hours doing that, or have to use some sort of grease to help guide it, and in that tight space...your back is going to be jacked up and your legs are going to go to sleep...lol, I learned the hard way...lol, hope this helps.

@@DaVerseOfficial I spent probably 30 mins trying to push this damn limp wire into that rubber piece, tried from below tried from above lol that shit sucked. I also tried prying the gasket off, no luck with that either. I'm sure drilling up in there ain't gonna be easy either but yea looks like it's the best way. Thanks

@@WBG123098 yeah, it's going to be a headache trying to go through the existing grommet...I used this to drill the whole...took literally 12 seconds and hole was done... Limited-time deal: Neiko 10194A Titanium Step Drill Bit, High Speed Steel | 1/4 to 1-3/8 | Total 10 Step Sizes … a.co/d/95WKHBY

@@DaVerseOfficial bro I thought I fried my whole shit... When I reconnected the battery a huge chunk of the negative terminal melted and sizzled.... I smelled smoke and disconnected everything, but had no idea what the problem was because the connections were solid and I had used dialectic grease, should've been no issue. Well where I connected to the factory post, on the inside of the passenger wheel well the wire going from alt b+ to the battery had been pressed under the factory 8awg connector and 1/2" nut and welded itself into the sheet metal... I thought I fried my PCM, because that's where I could smell the smoke, but it was actually right beneath that, through the rubber butthole grommet and on the inner wheel well wall, scary stuff. Thank God after I cut the burnt end and reconnected and rescrewed on a new ring terminal, the engine started back up. Before when I tried I was getting crazy transmission service messages and all kinds of crazy stuff. So moral of the story is sometimes it might be better to just drill the hole like you do in this video vs trying to keep it OEM

@@WBG123098man, I must be a little dense or a lil high or a lil tired or a lil bit of all, but I’ve re-read this several times and I’m still not sure what went wrong…did you connect alternator ground to positive post or something?

I bought 25 feet all together. And yeah, the kits aren't helpful if your battery is located in the trunk. I would suggest just buying 0 gauge OFC by the foot

www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6CPQK4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6XD1VNBJVB6JH9QRMTE3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You want the wire coming from the alternator to hook up straight to your main batteries (+), and then hook up a Zero gauge jumper from the main batteries (+) to the Secondary batteries (+), that way whatever accessories your running (Amp or LED wise) it will use the Reserve/Secondary batteries juice first. Hope that helps.

@@DaVerseOfficial ok so alternator positive wire to the main battery ok got it. And you think a 20feet is enough?

@@Cooties-19 correct...and 20 feet might barely be enough, but I would get at minimum 25ft....safe with 30ft that way you have enough for a ground jumper for the secondary battery or for alternate routing options.

@@DaVerseOfficial what kind of wires you running on that alternator to battery

@@Cooties-19 I'm running the Stinger OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) 0 gauge. Still holding 14.7 volts strong with the factory alternator.

I used a "TORX DRIVE BIT SET"

@@DaVerseOfficial do you know what size of the torx

@@Cooties-19 no I don't recall, but if you Google "TORX DRIVE BIT FOR(YOUR CAR) seat removal", it should pull it up.

I bought 25 feet all together just so I had more in case I had to take a different route.

14.1-14.3, then when bassing around 13.4-13.8...after big 3 14.7-14.8, then when bassing 14.2-14.4, 14.1 at full tilt.

@@DaVerseOfficial not bad and what’s your current set up that made you need the big 3?

@@sniperking305 nothing...I sold everything...but what made me do it was just because I wanted to be safe rather than sorry...to prevent voltage drop throughout the car, more stable power/more power to amp, leds etc.

@@DaVerseOfficial that’s what I mean like what amp and speakers or subs are you running

@@sniperking305 I was running multiple setups...check out my videos on my page, I show it all. But the recent one was a sundown x12 in my own custom made ported box tuned to 33hz, 4 infinity reference 6x9,( 2 in front door and 2 in rear dash), 4 infinity reference 3.5,( 2 in front dash and 2 in rear door), and a 5 channel nemesis korean amp= very underrated...clean power. Had factory stereo and factory alternator and a xs power d4800 main battery...no secondary battery recently and was still getting minimal voltage drop.

Honestly you can if you want to take a shortcut...I just liked running a straight 0 gauge from start to end so I had no rust issues, bolts loosening issues, or possible voltage inconsistencies. You can try it that way and see if it works best for you.

@@DaVerseOfficial honestly id like to do it ur way 100% but i do want to try to save me some time and money. 😅 i got a 2014 chrysler 300c but im not sure if my dash displays show me the battery voltage so i guess i wont kno if theres any inconsistencies

@@dnthateme559 youll honestly feel better knowing you ran your own 0 gauge from start to end without any breaks or splits....and i would get a "STINGER VOLT METER" regardless if your dash displays the voltage or not just so you know and have a peace of mind with what your amp sees as far as power....but yeah, my saying is " Do it Right or PAY IT TWICE" - DaVerseOfficial

@@DaVerseOfficial thanks for the advice. Good work on ur video bro!

@@dnthateme559 no problem bro....and I appreciate the support... anytime you need me, just hit up my IG - DaVerseOfficial

The pos on the alternator.

The positive wire I never took off, I just took off the nut from the positive terminal of the alternator and added the BIG 3 positive wire to it.

@@DaVerseOfficial I finished it all up . With the ground from the motor to the back .

Yes, @DaVerseOfficial

No, it wasn't too bad at all. Just take your time and take off one bolt, secure the ground and replace bolt, then unscrew positive nut, connect 0 gauge positive wire, and replace and tighten nut.

@@DaVerseOfficial can I ask what kind of tools did you use to replace the nuts. One more question will this big 3 stop the clipping?

@@Cooties-19 I used just a basic socket wrench set so I wouldn't strip the bolt or nut...and as far as clipping, that has to do with your amplifiers gain being set too high. The Big 3 should significantly help with giving better and cleaner power overall.

@@DaVerseOfficial thank you man. You been a big help

@@Cooties-19 no problem. That's what I'm here for.🤝🏾❤💯

It probably would, but if your going to do it big, just do it right or pay it twice..for example, u can use water in your engine coolant reservoir but whats going to cause your engine to overheat quicker? Water only, or engine coolant? CCA=Water and OFC=Coolant. ( though coolant is generally 50/50, but you get what I'm saying...lol)

What tool did you use to remove the seat

@@lgr9314 I used a ⅜ hex Rachel socket...here's a video I found to help... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZwxVJ95Exx8.html

Because from the junction I was experiencing voltage drops when I initially tested that theory, on top of the factory 0 gauge copper wasn't long enough to reach my new xs power battery, and I wanted all of my 0 gauge to be the same. Taking my cars interior all of the way apart, I didn't want to half ass anything, put it back together, and run into an issue, then redo everything..."do it right or pay it twice." But it's just my way of doing things.

@@DaVerseOfficial I've considered doing it on my Magnum but wasn't sure how to do it with the battery in the back, makes sense now but it's a lot of work

@@Nick-xv7xx true, it is a lot of work, but I'm telling you, it's worth it in a long run.

I believe about 20 feet taking the route I took. I bought 25 feet to play it safe.

Yes

@@DaVerseOfficial going to be doing my big 3 soon

@@RAaronD90 💯👍🏾heck yeah, one of the most beneficial things you can do to increase your electrical current.

@@DaVerseOfficial yea I got to skar vxfs and a svk.4500 amp

@@RAaronD90 yeah you definitely want to do the big 3 for that. It will be beneficial frfr

Lol, mine read the same thing before the big 3, but you notice how the voltage is inconsistent..14.2, 13.2, 14.7??? That's because initially the car gets a spike of power when initially cranked and stays at a floating voltage...soon after running, the thin 4/8 gauge wire gets really hot from the bottle neck theory I speak about, in which causes resistance in the current, which then makes for voltage drop...that's where the big 3 comes in..it doesn't necessarily give u a big voltage spike, it maintains what your alternator is capable of doing aka the charging voltage of it..in other words, compare a 3k am..it may do 3k peak, but 1,500 rms...minus efficiency...so truly maybe 1,100 to 1,200 watts rms. The Big 3 basically keeps it steady...but long story short, typically all Mopar cars rest between 14.2-14.7, but the voltage is inconsistent because of the power wire Mopar factories use...it gets too dang hot, which causes resistance at the bottleneck point, which then drops the voltage, then you notice yourself cranking up the volume knob and then your system isn't performing how you expect it to...do the big 3 and you will notice a huge performance difference..it all starts with electrical.💯👍🏾

@@DaVerseOfficial just curious how many watts is ur system? I got 2 15 zvx v2 skar audio z at 1500rms each with a 4K watt hifonics Brutus amp wired at .5 ohm. Do u still got stock alternator and battery?

@@edwardcastillo8414 I'm only running a 2200.5 amp, stock alternator and an xs power battery with the big 3. Lmao, no wonder why your voltage is dropping...please tell me u have or are planning on putting a High Output Alternator and more batteries with that setup??? And is this in your 300? If so, the only way it's going to perform efficiently is if you took out the backseat and walled it off, and used everything...not enough air space. And running 2 amps in that car with stock...that's like tying a leash around a chihuahuas neck and having him pull your 5 people on a sled....(Chihuahua=Alternator). Then it would be good to upgrade the cars suspension..what's the weight, like 350-400 lbs, subs, box, amps....?

@@DaVerseOfficial yes of course I’m planning on another alternator and one maybe two extra batteries. It just costs a lot of money. I’m also planning on getting 100% copper 0 gauge wire because right now it’s 50% aluminum 50% copper. I have them in two separate ported boxes because one full ported box won’t fit. I’m trying to get one sealed box for both subs but I can’t find the dimensions. Each sub in its box probably weights about 50 lbs.

@@edwardcastillo8414 my bad I thought u were running 2 Brutus amps...lol, read it wrong..but still, u want to run another battery and better alternator. I had 2 x8v3's in my car, and it hit harder than a couple people's setups with 2 12's, and another guys 2 15's...it doesn't matter how much power, per say, one is pushing, it's all about 1- the electrical, 2- the enclosure, and 3- the cabins air space.... here's a sample of the 8's ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6A1rn6qm59c.html

The results are well worth the hard work...just follow the route I took and its a piece of cake...just be patient and take your time doing it. 💯🤝🏾

@@DaVerseOfficial Man my patience would be lost . I will try it next week adding another battery to my audio.

@@williejones8977 you got this bro, doing the big 3 will tremendously boost your performance on top of adding a second battery..just try to make sure the battery your getting is an AGM, and if so, change your stock battery as well to AGM, if possible. If not, look into getting a " Battery Isolator " so they don't drain each other.

@@DaVerseOfficial I was actually getting a isolator

I did the big three but I think I should have done it the way you did because I’m not seeing the voltage increases you see

I believe so but don't quote me on it...I believe the durangos battery is located underneath the seat and is difficult to get to, but I believe the terminal for the factory 0 gauge is located in the same kick panel on the passenger side. Only way to know is to pull the carpet back and see. Hope this helps👍🏾

Yes I did just to keep everything factory as is.

@@DaVerseOfficial okay thanks great video by the way

@@kinetik392 no problem, always here to help....and I appreciate it💯🤝🏾

I kept the factory + wire there just to keep things stock as far as the cars electrical system and in case i got rid of the car i could just unplug and pull everything out. As far as the negative wire and negative sensor, i fit them both to 0 gauge. Not that it was necessary to use 0 gauge for the sensor wire, but i did it anyway. Hope this helps.🤝🏾

So did it really make any difference than not upgrading the battery to alternator? I thought that would’ve been the main focal point of upgrading, not just the grounds

@seanf6968 i upgraded the positive from battery to alternator, i just kept the factory wire hooked up as well in line with my added upgraded 0 gauge run.

So what was the main difference you noticed doing the upgrade? I have left over wire so I’m adding to the fuse to positive and the negative to ground and the alternator to strut bar… I’m wondering if it will be worth it to buy more wire just to finish the alternator to battery

@seanf6968 the main difference you'll notice is steady power/current, no dimming/less dimming...let me just give an example...breathing through a straw vs breathing through a paper towel roll...which one is easier? Paper towel roll, it allows more air flow and quicker....same for electrical current..if u upgrade some and not all of the power and ground wires, it defeats the purpose. Its like mashing the gas then slamming the brakes, then tapping the gas and tapping the brakes...lol

About 17-20ft....but to be on the safe side, I'd get 25ft. at least

17 to 20 ft only for the alt to the main battery?? Damm i tought it was gonna be like 14 thanks men, i will purchase 25ft red cable and like 10ft black

@@HectorRodriguez-fe8xz yeah I thought that too, and then I was like " mightis well get 25ft, and roll up the slack if need be incase I have to change paths in my run, or move amps etc. And no problem bro, hope this helps.

@@DaVerseOfficial bro im back again 😅 so you got 25 of red cable and how much you got of black?? Im want to put a new system in my grand cherokee o want to do the big 3 and run cable to the amps and all that

@@HectorRodriguez-fe8xz to be on the safe side, u can get like 10 ft. of black depending on where your factory battery is and where your making your wire runs to your amps. If you have the funds available, I would do 25 ft. of each....that way you have more, rather than not enough.

Honestly do both. Big 3 basically gives you a solid connection for more power and the agm battery will prevent voltage drop and light dimming.

@@DaVerseOfficial Thank you.

@@junballs6576 no problem. 👍🏾🤝🏾💯❤️