I love ur vids keep up the good work Brad. Nice to see how beach breaks work because here in Barbados all beaches are rocky, coral floored and most good breaks on low tide are a walk over reef. W love from Barbados!
Head high is the bar i set. Bigger means they can pound you. This video gets up to double overhead easy. 2nd half of video became pretty interesting. Enjoyed it.
Those waves are not out of control size. Stop hyping normal waves for that area. Try taping those size waves in Newport Beach around 52nd street. Hollow and deep.
🤩 WOW! No thanks bra. Even 40 years ago that didn’t look fun. Great looking waves and sizable but I’ve never fancied beach breaks. We used to get Moss Landing perfect back in the 70’s but it was brutally cold 🥶. In my prime, I remember going up to San Francisco and there were perfect waves but I only lasted 20 minutes before being rendered worthless. Crappy wetsuits and 5 degrees colder than Santa Cruz was really brutal. I really respect Northern California 🏄♀️. I used to be one. Went down to Hazzards at Cayucas? Montano del Oro and this was 1972-1974 with just a handful of local’s, my friends but it was actually 5 degrees colder than Santa Cruz. Really good 6-8 reef break but again our wetsuits sucked and I only lasted 30 minutes, just like San Francisco. I guess I wouldn’t have changed a thing except for the wetsuits…..LOL
@@waltysalamander I went there at 4PM hoping to at least get a good workout and there wasn't a single person surfing from the pier to the jetty, it was so sketchy.
99.9 % of humans have No clue how physically difficult this is and how small the time of glory is! You paddle and duck dive and nearly drown a dozen times and then you finally get out there. You turn and paddle for a wave only to go over the falls and try paddling out again duck diving and drowning for ten maybe 30 minutes only to get back out there for a three second ride. 😂😂😂
I'll just go ahead and reply to my own comment. We would drive 8 hours one way to surf for a couple days. Add up all the time riding a wave might add up to two minutes. 16 hours of driving for 2 minutes of awesome wave riding. That sums up how fun surfing is!
Brad, Brad an’t no Hodad at it again. The early turd gets the barrel. I’d like to see a short film with you narrating it about previous season. Edit: dude at 4:16 on the 🕷 has the best stick for the conditions. CHP Redondo Beach was so da kind RIP Walker foam. That damn poodle of his drove me nuts 🤙🏼🔱
Went at 4PM, massive and way nastier than on this video; not a single person out. Ended up in Hammerland and it was pumping! Open faces breaking left and right.